Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools and metric sockets/ratchets, breaker bar, extensions
- Torque wrench (full range)
- Cam timing holding tools (as applicable to your engine)
- Valve spring compressor (bench or in-situ)
- Valve keeper pliers/picks
- Valve guide driver/install set (matched to guide OD) and receiver/drift
- Hydraulic press or arbor press (preferred) OR soft-faced hammer when using driver
- Valve guide extractor (if guides are stuck) or tapered punch/double-ended driver set
- Valve guide reamer(s) (correct size for new guides) and pilot
- Valve stem micrometer (micrometer) and inside micrometer or dial bore gauge
- Feeler gauges
- Valve seat cutter/rotary hone or fine lapping tools (if seats need work)
- Clean rags, solvent/degreaser, brass or nylon brushes
- Assembly lube, engine oil, light cutting oil for reamer
- New valve guides (OEM or specified oversize), new valve stem seals, possibly new valves/springs/keepers
- Safety gear: eye protection, heat-resistant gloves, respirator if grinding, fire extinguisher
- Heat source (propane torch / heat gun) or oven for thermal installation (only if following heat-fit method)
- Anti-seize, thread locker, gasket set and head gasket (if head is removed)

Safety precautions (read before starting)
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Keep flammable materials away from heat source. Have a fire extinguisher ready.
- Disconnect battery. Drain coolant and oil if head will be removed.
- Support engine/transmission if the head removal disturbs mounts.
- Use appropriate lifting equipment and torque wrench. Never strike camshafts/valves with hard tools.
- If heating the head, avoid open flame near fuel/residual hydrocarbons. Gloves and eye protection mandatory.
- Dispose of solvent and used parts per local regulations.

High-level overview
1) Remove cylinder head (or at least fully strip top end with camshafts off and head clear) so you can access valve guides from the combustion chamber side or cam side (most common work is from the combustion chamber side).
2) Remove valves, springs, retainers, keepers, and seals.
3) Remove old guides (press/drift or heat/drive-out method).
4) Clean and inspect head, valve seats, and bores. Repair seats or deck if needed.
5) Install new guides to specified depth.
6) Ream/hone new guides to final clearance and check valve stem fit.
7) Replace seals and reassemble with correct valve lash/timing and torqueing.

Step-by-step procedure

Preparation
1. Drain coolant and oil if you will remove the head. Label and mark timing components, cam caps, and any electrical connectors. Remove intake/exhaust manifolds, timing belt/chain components, camshafts, and rocker assemblies as required so you have full access to valves and guides.
2. Clean the head exterior; keep combustion chamber area clean but protected from debris entering bores.

Valve removal
3. Use valve spring compressor to compress spring, remove keepers/collets with keeper pliers, remove retainer and spring, pull valve out from combustion chamber side. Remove valve stem seals (cut off if seized). Keep valves organized per cylinder in order/position.

Inspecting head & valves
4. Inspect valve stems for wear, scoring, pitting. Replace any valves that exceed stem diameter wear limits. Inspect valve seats for pitting or offset—if seats are worn, do seat recutting before reassembly.
5. Measure valve stem diameter and original guide bore to determine required new guide size or oversize (if reaming required). Typical target stem-to-guide clearance: intake ~0.03–0.08 mm (0.001–0.003 in), exhaust slightly larger ~0.05–0.12 mm (0.002–0.005 in). Use tolerance values from the Mitsubishi spec if available.

Removing old guides
6. Secure the head in a vise with wood blocks or soft jaws to avoid damage. Protect sealing surfaces.
7. If guides are lightly pressed: use a proper guide drift/driver sized to the guide OD and a receiver underneath to support the head. Drive the guide out with steady blows or use an arbor/hydraulic press to press it out. Align driver square to avoid cocking and damaging the guide bore.
8. If guides are stuck: apply penetrating oil and allow time. Heat the head locally (do not overheat—120–150°C max) to expand the head around the guide and drive out. Alternatively, cool the guide (difficult without dry ice) and press. If extraction fails, use a guide extractor tool that grips inside the guide and pulls, or carefully drill a hole and use an expanding puller (risky—avoid if inexperienced).
9. Clean the guide bore with solvent and a brass brush; remove burrs and carbon. Do not use hard-steel wire that will gall the bore.

Inspect bores & seats
10. Check the guide bore chamfer and deck surface at guide location. Check for cracks. If seats are damaged, do seat recutting/concentric grinding now.

Installing new guides
11. Verify new guide OD and required installation depth. OEM guides are usually interference fit; check manufacturer spec for depth from seat face or head deck.
12. Installation methods:
- Press-fit method (recommended): Use arbor/arbor press and a guide driver that pushes on the guide OD. Press the guide straight into the head until it bottoms at the correct depth. Use a soft receiver under the head or a support tool to avoid distorting the head.
- Thermal method (alternate): Heat the head uniformly (or local area) to ~120–150°C to expand the bore, then drive the room-temperature guide in with a guide driver (or press). Never exceed safe temperatures or use open flames near residues.
- Cold-shrink method: Freeze the guide (liquid nitrogen or dry ice) and press into ambient head; less practical for home shops.
13. After installation, verify guide depth with calipers or depth gauge. The guide lip or shoulder should be at the specified height (factory spec). If not correct, remove and reinstall.

Reaming/honing to final size
14. Select the correct pilot for the reamer to ensure concentricity. Mount reamer in a T-handle or drill press at low speed, but hand-turned is preferred for control.
15. Use cutting oil and ream in slow, steady strokes. Don’t force; remove small amounts of material and check diameter frequently. The reamer should cut, not hog out. For bronze guides, a single-pass or a few light passes is typical; measure frequently.
16. After reaming, clean thoroughly—use solvent and compressed air to remove chips (blow from inside to outside to avoid packing debris into the guide).
17. Measure final guide bore and calculate clearance with valve stem dimension. Aim for target clearance range noted earlier. If clearance too large, you must install a different (smaller ID) guide or sleeve; if too tight, lapping is not safe—replace guide.

Valve stem seals
18. Fit new valve stem seals over each guide. Use the correct seal type and installation depth. Lubricate lightly with clean engine oil.

Checking valve fit & seat
19. Insert each valve and check for smooth movement through the guide. Check valve stem runout (radial) if possible. Check seat contact and concentricity. If valve face or seats were disturbed, lap/seat or machine as required.
20. Reinstall valve springs, retainers, and keepers; torque cam caps and related fasteners to factory spec on reassembly. Replace head gasket and head bolts if torque-to-yield were used (consult manual).

Final assembly & testing
21. Reassemble timing components, set timing, install manifolds, refill fluids, reconnect battery.
22. Start engine and listen for abnormal noise. Run to operating temp and recheck for oil leaks. After a short run-in, recheck valve clearance/tappets (if adjustable) and torque critical bolts after cool-down per manual.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Driving guides cocked: always align driver/press square. Use pilot and receiver fixtures. Tilted installation damages bore and causes leaks/wear.
- Overheating head: avoids paint/metal distortion; use controlled oven or heat gun with thermometer. Excess heat can wreck valve seats and warpage.
- Reaming too aggressively: removes too much material and creates excessive guide clearance; measure often and use the correct pilot.
- Reusing old seals: always replace valve stem seals.
- Not checking valve seats/valves: new guides won’t fix poor seating; check/repair seats and valves.
- Wrong replacement parts: get correct OD/ID guides for engine and correct seat height; aftermarket generic guides may be incorrect.
- Not checking tolerances: always measure valve stem and guide bore; wrong clearance leads to oil burning (too large) or seizure (too small).
- Damaging cam or lifters: keep work area clean; use caps/alignment marks to avoid messed up cam phasing.

Replacement parts typically required
- New valve guides (OEM or quality aftermarket)
- New valve stem seals (always)
- Possibly new valves if stems are worn/pitted
- Valve springs/retainers/keepers if worn or damaged
- Head gasket(s) and head bolts (if head removed and bolts are torque-to-yield)
- Any timing seals/gaskets disturbed during disassembly

Tool use specifics (short)
- Guide driver: matches guide OD; sits on top of guide and is driven straight. Use press for smooth, even force; hammer only with soft blows or soft-faced hammer.
- Reamer: use pilot for concentricity and cutting oil; turn slowly by hand or low-speed power, back out chips regularly; measure often.
- Valve spring compressor: compress spring while holding valve steady, remove keepers carefully; reverse to install.
- Extractor: grips inside of guide when stuck; use in-line pull from press or slide hammer.

Final note
Follow Mitsubishi factory service manual for exact dimensions, depths, and torque specs for the Delica L300 engine you are working on. If you’re not equipped with an arbor press, reamer set, and measuring tools, consider a machine shop for guide removal/installation and reaming to ensure concentricity and correct clearances.
rteeqp73

WATCH THIS BEFORE BUYING A MITSUBISHI DELICA! (L300 & L400) DELICA #MITSUBISHI #4X4VAN Hopefully this video helps you guys with your Delica purchase. More Delica content coming your ...

Mitsubishi Delica Engine Removal! Welcome to our three-part video series on the 1993 Mitsubishi Delica L300 Super Exceed engine swap! In this series, we ...

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