- Safety and preparation
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect hands/eyes from oil, metal chips and sprays.
- Work on a cool engine parked on level ground with the handbrake on and battery negative terminal disconnected (use a wrench to remove terminal) to avoid accidental cranking.
- Have a clean well-lit workspace and plenty of rags and a parts tray for bolts.

- What you’re doing and why
- On an OHV (pushrod) engine you’ll remove the valve cover, inspect or remove the rocker arms, then remove the pushrods to check for straightness, wear and proper length. You may be replacing bent or worn pushrods or related parts (rockers, lifters, seals). If valve adjustment is required, you’ll set valve lash/clearance after reassembly.
- Replacement is required if pushrods are bent, have damaged ends/cups, or if lifters/rocker faces are damaged. Also replace the valve cover gasket and pushrod tube seals if they leak.

- Tools you need (every tool described and how to use it)
- Metric socket set (deep and shallow): sockets sized to the valve cover and rocker hardware. Use with a ratchet to remove nuts/bolts. Deep sockets are useful for long studs; match socket size to nut to avoid rounding.
- 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet and extensions: ratchet gives leverage to turn sockets; use extensions to reach recessed bolts. Use short extension for more control.
- Torque wrench (click-type, metric): used to tighten bolts/nuts to specified torque. Set the wrench to the factory torque, snug bolts in a cross pattern, then apply torque until it clicks. Final torque is critical on rocker nuts and valve cover bolts to avoid leaks or stripped threads.
- Combination wrench set (metric): open-end and box-end wrenches for nuts where a socket won’t fit. Use box end for better grip and to avoid rounding.
- Feeler gauge set: thin metal blades of known thickness used to measure valve lash/clearance. Select correct thickness for the engine spec and slip between rocker pad and valve tip when adjusting.
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers: to remove clips, covers, hoses or pry the valve cover gently. Use the correct size to avoid damaging slots.
- Pliers (needle-nose and regular): for removing clips, hose clamps, and lifting pushrods carefully if needed. Needle-nose helps retrieve dropped small parts.
- Magnet pickup tool: to retrieve dropped nuts/bolts from tight areas.
- Clean lint-free rags and parts tray: to keep parts clean and organized; prevent dirt entering the lifter gallery.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster): spray on stubborn bolts; let soak before attempting removal to reduce risk of rounding/breaking.
- Plastic or rubber mallet: gentle taps to free stuck components without damaging them.
- Straightedge or flat glass plate and a small flashlight: for a basic straightness check of pushrods — roll pushrod on flat surface to detect bends (see procedure).
- Small mirror/inspection light: to see down into lifter bores and rocker areas.
- Gasket scraper or plastic razor blade: to clean old gasket material from mating surfaces without gouging metal.
- Shop vacuum or compressed air (low pressure): to clean debris (blow with care; avoid forcing debris into seals).
- Jack and jack stands (only if needed): if access to the engine is limited from above, raise the vehicle safely and support on stands. Use a jack to lift and stands to hold — never work under a car supported only by a jack.

- Extra tools that are strongly recommended (why they’re needed)
- Service manual or printout with torque specs and valve lash specs for your exact Delica L300 engine: required because torque values and clearances vary by engine variant; using wrong values can damage engine.
- Torque angle gauge or calibrated torque wrench (if the engine uses torque-to-yield fasteners): ensures bolts tightened correctly.
- Dial indicator and V-blocks (optional, for precise pushrod straightness testing): measure runout more accurately than the roll-on-flat test; useful if you suspect subtle bends.
- Valve spring compressor (not normally required to remove pushrods): only needed if you plan to remove valve springs or service valves themselves.
- New valve cover gasket and pushrod tube seals: recommended replacements while you’re in there to prevent future oil leaks.

- Preliminary steps
- Remove battery negative terminal with a wrench and tuck the cable aside.
- Remove any obstructing components (air intake hose, engine cover, throttle linkage, etc.) using screwdrivers and sockets. Keep bolts labeled and organized.
- Clean the top of the engine so no dirt falls into the valve cover when opened.

- Remove valve cover and access pushrods
- Spray penetrating oil on stubborn cover bolts if needed and remove valve cover bolts/nuts with the appropriate socket or wrench. Use extensions for recessed bolts.
- Carefully lift the valve cover straight up. If it’s stuck, tap gently with a rubber mallet or pry lightly at one corner with a plastic scraper—do not gouge mating surfaces.
- Remove old gasket material with a gasket scraper, leaving the mating surfaces clean and dry.

- Inspect rocker arms and pushrods in place
- With the valve cover off, rotate the engine by hand using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt (use breaker bar or ratchet). Rotate slowly and watch rockers to see movement. If you hear ticking or see uneven movement, note the cylinder(s).
- Look for obvious damage: broken rocker pads, scored or flattened pushrod ends, sludge, or excessive oil leakage.

- Removing rocker arms and pushrods
- Loosen and remove rocker arm nuts or bolts using the correct socket/wrench. Keep each nut with its rocker to maintain matching pairs.
- Lift rocker arms off the studs and place them in order on a clean rag or tray. Some engines have shafts — note orientation so they go back the same way.
- Remove pushrods by lifting them straight up out of their lifter guides. Keep them in order and position (mark with cardboard or tray) so you know which cylinder each belongs to.

- Inspecting pushrods and lifters
- Visual check: look for bent shafts (kinks), worn or flattened ends, heavy scoring or discoloration from overheating.
- Straightness check (simple method): place pushrod on a flat surface or glass and roll it while watching for rocking — any visible wobble indicates bend.
- Tip check: pushrod ends should be smooth and hemispherical or cup-shaped without pitting. Wear here causes poor contact and noise.
- Lifter check: with pushrods out, look down the lifter bore for sludge, damaged lifter faces or a lifter that doesn’t rotate freely (if adjustable lifters). Replace lifters if damaged or excessively worn.

- Deciding when to replace parts
- Replace pushrods if bent, visibly worn at ends, scored, or if roll test shows wobble.
- Replace rocker arms if pads are worn, mushroomed, cracked or have excessive play.
- Replace lifters if the lifter face is worn, lifter is collapsed, or you have hydraulic lifter noise that doesn’t clear with adjustment.
- Replace valve cover gasket and pushrod tube seals whenever you open the cover or if leaking.
- Replace pushrods in matched sets for longevity — mixing old and new can cause uneven wear.

- Installing new or inspected pushrods
- Clean pushrods and lifter bores with a lint-free rag. Lightly coat pushrods with engine oil before installation.
- Install each pushrod into its original position, seating it firmly in the lifter and down into the rocker rest. Maintain original order unless you have a full new set.
- Reinstall rocker arms onto their studs or shaft in the same orientation. Start nuts/bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.

- Adjusting valve lash (if applicable)
- Consult the service manual for the correct valve clearance (clearance differs by engine and hot/cold condition). If you don’t have exact specs, acquire the manual — incorrect lash can damage valves or cause poor running.
- For adjustable rockers: use a feeler gauge to set the gap between the rocker pad and valve stem/adjuster per spec. Loosen the locknut, turn the adjuster to obtain the correct feeler gauge drag, then tighten the locknut while holding adjuster. Re-check the gap after tightening.
- For hydraulic lifters (no lash required), tighten rocker nut to manufacturer’s preload torque or specification for hydraulic preload (some require torque only; others specify turning an additional fraction of a turn).

- Torquing and final assembly
- Torque rocker nuts/bolts to manufacturer specs using the torque wrench. If the torque sequence is specified, follow it. Avoid overtightening — use torque wrench for accuracy.
- Rotate the engine by hand two full revolutions and re-check clearances/torques as required by the manual.
- Clean valve cover mating surface, install new gasket and any pushrod tube seals, then reinstall the valve cover. Tighten valve cover bolts progressively and torqued to spec (hand-tight plus specified torque).
- Reconnect any removed hoses, air intake components and the battery negative terminal.

- Break-in and testing
- Start the engine and listen for unusual noises. A light tick may be normal briefly as new components seat; persistent loud ticking indicates improper clearance or another issue.
- After a short run, recheck for oil leaks around the valve cover and for any loose bolts.
- Re-check valve clearances after specified run-in miles if required by the repair manual.

- Typical replacement parts you might need (and why)
- Complete pushrod set (matching lengths): bent or worn pushrods cause valve timing and lift issues.
- Rocker arms or rocker arm assembly: worn rocker pads or bearings will damage pushrods and valves.
- Lifters (hydraulic or mechanical): damaged lifters cause noise and poor valve operation.
- Valve cover gasket and pushrod tube seals: prevent oil leaks; cheap and recommended to replace whenever cover is removed.
- Rocker arm studs/nuts or seals: if stripped or corroded, replacement ensures correct torque and sealing.
- Engine oil and filter: best practice to change oil if internal work was performed or if contaminated.

- Common signs that pushrods or related parts need attention
- Loud ticking or clattering from the top of the engine especially on startup
- Misfire or loss of power on one or more cylinders
- Visible bent pushrods when inspected
- Oil leaks around valve cover / pushrod tube
- Excessive wear on rocker pads or pushrod ends

- Final notes and cautions
- Always use the exact torque and valve clearance specs for your Delica L300 engine variant — an online forum or parts dealer can point you to the correct factory manual if you don’t already have it.
- Work methodically: keep parts labeled by cylinder and order so reassembly preserves correct relationships.
- If you find major wear on lifters, rockers, or the cam, professional machining or deeper engine work may be required — do not mix old and new components in such cases.
- If you are uncomfortable with any step (valve adjustments, torque-critical fasteners), have a professional technician perform or verify the work.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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