Direct, practical guide for a beginner mechanic to repair (remove, inspect, rebuild, reinstall) a manual transmission from a Mitsubishi Delica L300. Read fully before starting. Use a factory service manual for exact torque numbers, shim thicknesses, and model-year specifics.

Safety first
- Work on a flat surface, wear eye protection and gloves.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Use quality jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Use a transmission jack or equivalent to support the gearbox.
- Keep a clean, organized workspace and labeled bags for fasteners.

When to repair — why this is needed (symptoms and causes)
- Grinding when shifting: damaged or worn synchronizers, worn gear dog teeth, or low/contaminated gear oil.
- Difficulty engaging gears/hard shifts: worn synchros, bent shift forks, misadjusted linkage, or clutch not releasing.
- Transmission pops out of gear: worn shift dogs/hub, worn engagement teeth, or worn detents.
- Loud whining/roaring noise that changes with engine rpm: worn bearings (input shaft, layshaft, output shaft).
- Metal flakes in gear oil / heavy contamination: failing gears or bearings.
- Oil leaks: torn seals or case damage.

Principles of how a manual transmission works (analogy + theory)
- Analogy: think of the gearbox as a set of bicycle sprockets and clutches inside a metal box. Shifting is like moving a chain to a different sprocket but with internal devices (synchronizers) that make rotating parts match speeds before they lock together.
- Power flow: engine → clutch → input shaft → gearsets → output shaft → driveshaft → wheels.
- Gearsets: usually one input (main) shaft and one layshaft/countershaft with pairs of gears meshing to deliver different ratios to the output/mainshaft.
- Synchronizers (synchros): friction rings and dogs that match speeds of a gear and the shaft so engagement is smooth.
- Shift forks and rails move sleeves/hubs that lock gears to the shaft.
- Bearings support rotating shafts and keep proper clearances.
- Seals and gaskets keep lubricant in and contaminants out.

Major components (what they are, what they do)
- Case (housing): holds everything; provides mounting points and oil sump.
- Input shaft: connects to clutch and turns the gearbox; carries the primary input gear.
- Layshaft/countershaft: carries gears that mesh with the input/mainshaft gears; driven by input gear.
- Output/mainshaft: carries selected gears that transfer torque to the driveshaft.
- Gears (1st–5th/6th and reverse): fixed to shafts or free-spinning on the mainshaft; different diameters produce ratios.
- Synchronizer assembly (hub, sleeve, blocking ring/synchro ring): hub splines on the shaft, sleeve locks hub to gear, blocking ring (brass) provides friction to match speeds before sleeve sliding locks engagement teeth (dogs).
- Shift forks: engage the synchronizer sleeve and move it to different gear positions.
- Selector shafts/rails and shift linkage: link the shift lever to internal shift forks.
- Bearings: tapered roller / ball bearings on shafts; allow rotation with minimal friction and set shaft endplay.
- Input pilot/bearing (pilot bushing): supports input shaft at crank pilot hole.
- Reverse idler gear: flips direction for reverse gear.
- Seals / gaskets: oil seals at input/output, case gasket(s).
- Speedometer drive / sensor: usually on output tail housing.
- Detents/springs/balls: keep gear positions indexed.

Tools and parts you will need
- Factory service manual (must-have).
- Metric socket & wrench set, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench.
- Transmission jack (or heavy floor jack + wood block).
- Engine support or jack for transmission bellhousing removal (transmissions are heavy).
- Clutch alignment tool.
- Snap-ring pliers, circlip pliers.
- Bearing puller or press; hydraulic press recommended for bearing removal/installation.
- Puller for input shaft bearing, pilot bearing extractor.
- Seal drivers, drift punch set, soft-faced hammer.
- Feeler gauges, dial indicator, calipers, micrometer (for bearing/shaft measurements).
- Gear pullers, bench vice.
- Shop rags, solvent, gasket scraper.
- New bearings, synchros, seals, gaskets, oil, and possibly full gear kit (recommended to replace wear parts rather than individual items).
- RTV gasket maker (if required).
- Clean containers for small parts and to drain gearbox oil.

Preparation and removal (step-by-step)
1. Park car, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
2. Lift vehicle, support on stands front and rear if needed; ensure safe access to transmission and driveline.
3. Drain gearbox oil via drain plug into pan.
4. Remove drive components:
- Remove propshaft or driveshaft(s) from output flange (mark orientation if prop shaft balanced).
- For 4x4 models remove front and rear transfer link as required.
- Remove CV axles or drive shafts if transaxle style.
5. Disconnect shifter linkage (label parts so reassembly is reversed).
6. Remove starter to access bellhousing bolts.
7. Disconnect clutch slave cylinder or release bearing linkage; if hydraulic, support and unplug hose (cap to prevent fluid loss).
8. Support engine if removing transaxle may change engine support angle (some vehicles require engine support).
9. Support transmission with transmission jack, remove bellhousing bolts and crossmember/support. Slowly lower transmission away from engine, ensuring input shaft clears clutch splines.
10. Remove clutch assembly if doing clutch: remove pressure plate and inspect flywheel for hot spots/cracks; resurface or replace if necessary. Replace pilot bearing if worn.

Disassembly (inside the gearbox)
Note: Lay out parts in order and photograph for reference.

1. Clean exterior, split case bolts, carefully separate case halves — there may be dowels.
2. Remove selector shafts/rails to free shift forks; slowly slide out forks (note orientation).
3. Remove synchronizer sleeves and hubs (may be held by circlips).
4. Remove mainshaft/output shaft assembly: slide gears off and mark order.
5. Remove layshaft/countershaft assembly and gears.
6. Extract bearings and seals with puller/press.
7. Inspect all snap rings, bearing seats, and gear teeth.

Inspection checklist (what to look for)
- Gears: pitting, chipped or broken teeth, scoring, excessive wear on dog teeth.
- Synchronizers: brass blocking rings worn (ridges, missing teeth), damaged friction surfaces, worn hub splines, cracked sleeves or dog teeth.
- Bearings: radial/axial play, grinding noise when rotated, rough feel.
- Shafts: worn splines, scoring on journals.
- Shift forks: bent, worn fork contact areas, excessive wear on tips (shoulder wear).
- Case: cracks, stripped threads, worn bearing bores.
- Seals: hardened or torn.
- Endplay and clearances: measure mainshaft endplay and compare to manual specification. Excessive endplay indicates worn thrust washers/bearings.

Decisions: replace or repair
- Replace bearings and synchros in matched sets if wear evident. Bearings are cheap relative to labor.
- Replace any gear with chipped teeth. Minor wear on gear teeth usually allowed; heavy pitting requires replacement.
- Replace all seals and gaskets.
- Replace worn shift forks or hardened areas; small wear sometimes refaced but replacement preferred.
- Replace pilot bushing and input seal.
- If more than one major component is damaged, consider buying a rebuilt transmission.

Rebuild and reassembly (principles and steps)
- Clean all parts in solvent; blow out with compressed air (wear eye protection).
- Install new bearings using proper drivers and press. Avoid hammering bearings directly.
- Replace synchro rings and inspect that their friction surfaces and locking teeth match hubs/gear teeth.
- Replace all snap rings with new if deformed.
- Reassemble shafts in reverse order — maintain original orientation and gear order.
- Install hubs, sleeves, and synchronizers; ensure correct placement of spacer washers and shims.
- Reinstall shift forks and rails; verify smooth movement and correct engagement.
- Check endplay and bearing preload per the manual. This often requires measuring with a dial indicator and adding or reducing shims or replacing thrust washers.
- Reassemble case halves with new gasket or factory sealant; torque case bolts to spec.
- Install output seals and any external components.

Clutch and bellhousing re-installation
- If clutch replaced, install new clutch disc and pressure plate with alignment tool; torque pressure plate bolts in star pattern to spec.
- Grease splines modestly with high-temp grease.
- Align transmission input shaft with clutch splines and slide transmission gently into bellhousing; do not force.
- Tighten bellhousing bolts to spec; reinstall starter.
- Reconnect shifter linkage, slave cylinder and bleed clutch if hydraulic.

Final steps and testing
- Refill gearbox with correct grade and volume of gear oil (factory spec).
- Reattach driveshaft(s)/prop shaft(s), torque flanges to spec; reinstall exhaust pieces removed.
- Lower vehicle.
- Start engine, check for leaks, operate shifter through all gears with vehicle stationary to verify smoothness.
- Test drive at low speed, check for abnormal noises, shifting behavior, and leaks.
- Re-check fluid level once warm and on level ground, per manual.

Common failure modes and what goes wrong (diagnostics)
- Worn synchro rings → grinding on upshifts or downshifts, difficulty matching revs.
- Worn/damaged dog teeth → pops out of gear under load.
- Worn bearings → whining that changes with engine speed, hard to distinguish between gear whine vs bearing whine (bearing usually constant in any gear).
- Bent shift fork → can't fully engage a gear or gears pop out.
- Broken/weak detent springs → sloppy shifter feel and false neutrals.
- Contaminated oil → accelerated wear, usually from water ingress or failing internal parts; metallic flakes indicate catastrophic wear.
- Improper endplay/shim adjustment → premature wear, noisy operation.

Tips, pitfalls and best practices (no-nonsense)
- Replace wear items as a set: bearings, seals, and synchros. It saves time and future teardown.
- Photograph every stage and keep parts labeled by position.
- Use a press, not hammering, for bearing removal/installation; misshapen bearings cause failure.
- Never reuse seals or old gaskets.
- Always torque bolts to spec and use thread locker where specified.
- If you can’t measure spec endplay/shims, don’t guess — get the manual or pro help.
- If clutch slippage or misalignment present, address clutch/flywheel before blaming gearbox.

When to call a professional
- If you cannot measure endplay or don’t have a press, or if the gearbox has broken gears or cracked cases.
- If you suspect differential or 4WD transfer involvement (complex assemblies).

Reference requirement
- This guide is detailed and general. For the L300 you must consult the Mitsubishi Delica L300 factory service manual for exact torque specs, shim thicknesses, oil type/quantity, and model-specific disassembly notes.

Done. Follow safety steps, take your time, and replace wear parts rather than patching.
rteeqp73

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Short overview (what you’re doing and why)
- You’re replacing the fuel filter/water separator on a Mitsubishi Delica L300 (typical 2.5L diesel 4D56). The filter removes dirt and water from the fuel before it reaches the high-pressure injection pump and injectors. Replace it because a clogged or water-filled filter causes poor running, loss of power, hard starting, or damaged injectors. Think of the filter like a coffee filter and water separator like a little decanter removing the coffee grounds and water before the fuel goes to the engine’s “heart” (the fuel pump).

Safety first
- Work in a well-ventilated area away from flames/sparks. Diesel is flammable.
- Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
- Have a drip pan, rags, and absorbent material ready. Dispose of used diesel/filter per local regulations.
- If lifting the vehicle, use properly rated jack stands on a level surface. Do not rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal if you will be working near electrical connectors or if you’ll be loosening fuel fittings (optional but safer).

What components are involved (detailed descriptions)
- Fuel tank: stores diesel.
- Low-pressure lift pump (in-tank or in-line): moves fuel from tank to filter. On Delica L300 many models have an in-line electric lift pump or engine-driven pump in the filter assembly area.
- Fuel lines: rubber/hose or hard metal lines that carry fuel. Usually have inlet (from tank) and outlet (to injection pump). They may include return lines on turbodiesels.
- Fuel filter housing / canister: the metal/plastic body that holds the filter element. On Delica L300 this is usually a spin-on cartridge or a removeable bowl with replaceable cartridge and a built-in primer bulb and drain.
- Filter element (cartridge): porous paper/mesh that captures dirt and particulates.
- Water separator / bowl: a chamber below the filter that captures water (diesel and water separate because water is heavier). Often has a drain screw/valve at the bottom to dump water.
- Primer bulb (manual priming pump): small rubber bulb you press to manually push fuel and remove air from lines.
- Bleed screw / air bleed valve: small screw to open to let trapped air out while priming.
- O-rings / sealing gasket: rubber seals that prevent leaks at filter mounting surfaces or spindles.
- Banjo bolts / steel fittings / clamps: hardware that secures lines to the filter.
- Mounting bracket: holds the filter to the vehicle body.

Tools and consumables you’ll need
- New correct replacement filter (specific to your Delica L300 model/year). Also replacement O-ring(s) if provided.
- Container to catch fuel (1–3 liters) and absorbent rags.
- 8, 10, 12, 14 mm wrenches or sockets (sizes vary; common for banjo bolts are 12–14 mm). Adjustable wrench.
- Screwdrivers (flat & Phillips).
- Pliers for hose clamps.
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool if fitted.
- Torque wrench (optional) for banjo bolts if you want correct torque (light torque).
- Small pickup tube or syringe for priming if no primer bulb.
- Gloves, safety glasses.
- Rag and degreaser for cleanup.

Preparation & inspection (before removing anything)
1. Make sure you have the correct replacement filter and any new O-rings.
2. Park on level ground, engine off, keys out. Let the engine cool.
3. Locate the fuel filter assembly: often mounted on the right inner wing or near the firewall on the engine bay or under the vehicle on the passenger side. You’ll see the canister with inlet/outlet hoses and a small drain screw at the bottom.
4. Inspect hoses and fittings for cracks, hardening, or cracks. If hoses are very old, replace them while you’re at it.
5. Place a drip pan under the filter to catch fuel.
6. If the assembly has a drain screw, open that first and drain into pan until mostly fuel (and water if present) is out. This reduces spillage when you remove the filter.

Removal (step-by-step)
Note: The exact physical procedure depends on whether your Delica has a spin-on cartridge or a bowl/cartridge assembly. I’ll give both paths.

A. Spin-on cartridge type:
1. Drain bottom: open drain screw to remove as much fuel as possible.
2. Remove inlet/outlet lines: loosen hose clamps or banjo bolts. Have rags ready and back-off slowly — fuel will spill. Use two wrenches for banjo bolts (one to hold fitting, one to turn bolt). Cap or plug lines quickly to limit air ingress.
3. Unscrew the old filter by turning counterclockwise. Use a filter wrench only if necessary. Keep the filter upright to avoid spilling.
4. Inspect the filter mounting surface and sealing face; clean off old gasket residue with a rag. Do not let dirt fall into the filter base.
5. Remove old O-ring/gasket. Clean groove, fit new O-ring (lubricate with clean diesel or engine oil lightly).
6. Prime the new filter (if possible): fill the filter canister with clean diesel until near top — this reduces air introduction.
7. Screw the new filter onto the mounting stud. Turn until gasket contacts, then tighten by hand about 3/4–1 full turn. Don’t over-torque — hand-tight is usually enough.
8. Reattach lines and torque banjo bolts/clamps to snug (no heavy over-tightening).
9. Close drain screw.

B. Cartridge-with-bowl type:
1. Open drain to relieve fuel in bowl.
2. Loosen bowl lock (usually a collar or clamp) and remove bowl to expose cartridge.
3. Remove old cartridge and discard.
4. Clean inside bowl and housing; remove sludge or water. Inspect O-ring for the bowl and replace if damaged.
5. Fit new cartridge, reassemble bowl with new O-ring lightly lubricated.
6. Replace drain screw and reattach lines if you removed them earlier.

Priming and bleeding air out
- Diesel systems are sensitive to air. The engine won’t run properly until all air is removed from the lines and filter.
Methods (follow whichever applies to your filter assembly):
1. Manual primer bulb: If your assembly has a primer bulb, squeeze until you feel firm resistance and you see fuel coming without air bubbles from the bleed screw or fuel lines. Open the bleed screw slightly while priming until clean fuel and no air bubbles come out, then close the screw.
2. Electric lift pump: Turn the key to the ON position (do not crank) to power the lift pump — it should run for a few seconds and pressurize the filter. Do this several times, and open the bleed screw to let air out until only fuel comes out, then close it.
3. No primer and no electrical pump: You may need to use a small hand pump or cranking cycles to pull fuel through. Repeated cranking (with glow plugs warm on diesel) can be used to draw fuel, but avoid cranking too long.
4. Start engine. It may cough/sputter as remaining air clears. Use the primer again if it stalls. Continue priming/bleeding until idle is steady and no air leaks are visible.
5. Check for fuel leaks at all fittings with engine running; tighten if necessary.

Final checks and clean up
- Inspect for leaks around filter, banjo bolts, clamps. Tighten if needed.
- Run engine for a few minutes, monitor for roughness and leaks.
- After a short drive, re-check clamps/bolts for tightness.
- Dispose of old filter and contaminated diesel properly.
- If you replaced lines or parts, re-check after several hundred miles.

What can go wrong and how to diagnose/fix it
- Air leak (cause): loose hose clamp, cracked hose, bad O-ring, not primed. Symptom: hard start, rough idle, loss of power. Fix: find and tighten/replace clamp/hose/O-ring, re-bleed.
- Stiff or no primer action (cause): deteriorated primer bulb, blocked check valve. Symptom: cannot build pressure/prime. Fix: replace primer bulb/check valve.
- Leaking filter (cause): damaged O-ring, cross-threaded filter, over-tightened/damaged housing. Symptom: visible fuel drip. Fix: replace O-ring, re-seat filter, avoid cross-threading.
- Clogged filter element (cause): dirty fuel, long service interval). Symptom: loss of power, poor idle, black smoke, no start. Fix: replace filter; inspect fuel tank and supply for large contamination; consider tank clean.
- Water in fuel (cause): contaminated supply, condensation). Symptom: engine misfires, corrosion, injector issues. Fix: drain water from separator, replace filter, check tank venting and fuel source.
- Stripped threads/cross-thread (cause): forcing filter on crooked). Symptom: damaged mount, leak. Fix: re-tap or replace filter mount — may need shop repair.
- After replacement engine won’t start and you cannot get fuel pressure (cause): trapped air, faulty lift pump, electrical issue. Fix: ensure priming done, check lift pump power (voltage), check fuses/relays, inspect wiring to pump.
- Damaged banjo bolt washers (copper crush washers): can cause leaks—replace them when removing banjo bolts.

Troubleshooting checklist if engine won’t start after replacement
1. Are lines full of fuel? (Open bleed screw to see fuel flow.)
2. Any visible leaks? (Tighten or replace fittings.)
3. Is the lift pump working? (Turn key to ON and listen/feel the filter housing or use a multimeter to check pump power.)
4. Repeat priming procedure thoroughly.
5. Check for blocked lines (kinks, collapsed hose).
6. If still dead, verify injectors and high-pressure pump weren’t starved/damaged (less common).

Tips, best practices and common beginner mistakes
- Always pre-fill the new filter if possible. It reduces the amount of air to remove.
- Replace O-rings every time; they compress and harden.
- Keep work area clean — a little dirt can ruin the injection pump/rails.
- Do not over-tighten spin-on filters. Hand-tight plus 3/4–1 turn after gasket contact is usually correct.
- Label or photograph hose routing before removal so you don’t swap lines.
- Replace hoses that show cracking or swelling; cheap hoses cause trouble later.

Estimated time and difficulty
- Time: 30–90 minutes depending on access, presence of primer/bleed screw, and your experience.
- Difficulty: Easy–Moderate for most people. The trickiest part is getting all the air out.

No "yapping": that’s the direct procedure and troubleshooting. Follow safety and local disposal rules.
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