- Safety first (read and follow):
- Work on a level surface, in daylight or good lighting, with the parking brake off and the engine cold.
- Never rely on the jack alone — always support the van on properly rated jack stands placed under solid jacking points.
- Use wheel chocks on wheels that stay on the ground.
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and a dust mask (do not blow brake dust with compressed air — use a vacuum or damp cloth).
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and do not smoke when using penetrating oil or brake cleaner.
- If anything feels beyond your skill, stop and have a professional complete the job.

- Tools (every tool named, what it is, why you need it, and how to use it):
- Hydraulic floor jack (2–3 ton rated):
- What: Lifts the vehicle safely from the ground to remove a wheel.
- Use: Position under the factory jacking point, pump the handle to raise the vehicle, lift enough to place jack stands. Do not stay under the vehicle supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands (pair, rated for vehicle weight):
- What: Safety supports to hold the van once lifted.
- Use: Place under the factory support points, lower the vehicle onto stands; ensure stands sit solidly and the vehicle is stable before working.
- Wheel chocks:
- What: Blocks (rubber or wooden) to prevent rolling.
- Use: Place behind/forward wheels on the ground before lifting.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with correct socket for lug nuts:
- What: Breaks loose tight wheel nuts.
- Use: Break lug nuts loose while the wheel is on the ground to avoid wheel spinning; finish removal after vehicle is lifted.
- Socket set and ratchet (metric sizes: common sizes like 12, 14, 17 mm, 19 mm — verify vehicle):
- What: For removing caliper bolts, bracket bolts, and rotor retaining screws.
- Use: Use appropriate socket and ratchet with extensions where needed; keep sockets fully seated on bolts to avoid rounding.
- Torque wrench (click-type, proper torque range):
- What: Ensures bolts and lug nuts are tightened to manufacturer specification.
- Use: Set to the specified torque and tighten wheel nuts and caliper/bracket bolts to spec; incorrect torque can be unsafe.
- Hex/Allen/Torx bits or screwdrivers (if caliper or rotor uses special fasteners):
- What: Some vehicles use hex or Torx screws to retain rotor or caliper.
- Use: Fit correct bit to remove small retaining screws carefully; an impact driver can help loosen stuck screws.
- C-clamp or caliper piston compressor tool:
- What: Pushes the caliper piston back into the caliper to make room for new (thicker) pads/rotor.
- Use: Place over the caliper and press the piston back slowly and evenly; open the brake fluid reservoir cap to avoid pressure buildup.
- Bungee cord, zip-tie, or hanger:
- What: To support the caliper once it is removed, preventing strain on the brake hose.
- Use: Hang the caliper from the suspension or frame; never let it dangle by the brake hose.
- Wire brush and brake cleaner:
- What: Cleans rust and debris from the hub and rotor mating surface.
- Use: Scrub hub surface with wire brush, spray brake cleaner to remove grease and dust; avoid breathing vapors.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster):
- What: Loosens seized bolts and rusted rotor.
- Use: Spray onto stuck bolts or rotor-hub interface, allow time to soak before attempting removal.
- Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer:
- What: Helps free a stuck rotor without damaging parts.
- Use: Strike the rotor face or hub lightly to break corrosion bond. Do not hit the wheel studs.
- Small hammer and punch or impact driver (if rotor retaining screws are stuck):
- What: To drive out stuck screws or bolts.
- Use: Use carefully to avoid damaging threads or screw heads.
- Brake pad/spreader tool or pliers:
- What: Assists in removing retaining clips or springs and compressing piston.
- Use: Remove clips and compress piston as needed.
- Caliper slide pin grease and anti-seize compound:
- What: Protects sliding components and prevents future seizing of rotor to hub.
- Use: Apply thin layer to slide pins and a small amount of anti-seize to hub mating surface (not on pad friction surfaces).
- Brake parts cleaner & rags:
- What: Keeps surfaces clean and free of oils.
- Use: Clean rotor braking surface before installation if it has any contamination.
- Feeler gauge / micrometer (optional but recommended):
- What: Measures rotor thickness and helps determine if rotor is within specification.
- Use: Measure rotor thickness at multiple points; compare with manufacturer minimum spec.
- Wire or zip-ties (to mark caliper/bracket orientation if needed):
- What: Helps keep components organized.
- Use: Keep bolts and small parts together and labeled for reassembly.
- Shop manual or printed torque spec sheet:
- What: Contains the correct torque values and any vehicle-specific details.
- Use: Reference for bolt torque, minimum rotor thickness, and jacking points.

- Extra tools you might need and why:
- Impact wrench (electric/air) — speeds removal of tight lug nuts and bolts; useful but not required.
- Rotor puller or hub puller — needed if rotor is corroded onto hub and won’t budge with hammer strikes.
- Heat gun or propane torch (used carefully) — heat the hub to expand metal and break corrosion; use with caution around brake components and fluids.
- Caliper piston wind-back tool (for some rear calipers that screw back) — required for certain caliper designs.
- Digital torque adapter or calibrated torque wrench — recommended for accurate wheel and bolt torques.

- Parts that may need replacement and why:
- Brake rotor (disc):
- Why: Replaced if warped (causes vibration/pulsation), scored deeply, cracked, excessively rusted, or worn below minimum thickness.
- What to buy: OEM or quality aftermarket rotor sized for Mitsubishi Delica L300 front (confirm year and front/rear). Choose new rotors matched to vehicle (plain or drilled/slotted per preference). Replace in pairs (both front rotors) to maintain balanced braking.
- Brake pads:
- Why: Pads wear at similar or faster rates than rotors; new rotors should normally be fitted with new pads to ensure proper bedding and even contact.
- What to buy: Pads sized for your caliper and rotor; pick OEM-equivalent or higher-quality aftermarket pads.
- Caliper guide pins, boots, and caliper bolts (hardware):
- Why: Worn or seized slide pins cause uneven pad wear and poor braking. Replace if corroded or damaged.
- What to buy: A caliper hardware kit for your model (slides, pins, clips, anti-rattle springs).
- Rotor retaining screw(s) or hub bolts:
- Why: Often rust or strip; replacing makes future removal easier.
- What to buy: Replacement screws/bolts matching OE specifications.
- Wheel bearings (only if play/noise detected when hub removed):
- Why: If bearings are worn, rotor removal may reveal play or roughness — bearings must be serviced or replaced.
- What to buy: Bearing kits specific to hub model if needed.
- Brake fluid (if reservoir level rises or you need to bleed brakes):
- Why: Compressing pistons can force fluid back into reservoir; if fluid overflows or contamination occurs, top-up or bleed as needed.
- What to buy: DOT rating specified in owner's manual (DOT 3/4).

- How to determine if the rotor must be replaced (signs and checks):
- Visual signs: deep grooves, visible cracks, heavy rust on braking surface, or lip at rotor edge larger than ~1–2 mm.
- Feel: steering wheel or brake pedal pulsation under braking often indicates warped rotor.
- Thickness check: measure with micrometer at multiple points and compare to manufacturer minimum spec (service manual). If below min spec, replace.
- Pad condition: if pads are thin or contaminated, replace when changing rotors.

- Procedure overview (stepwise bullets — follow safety above):
- Prepare: park on level ground, chock wheels, loosen lug nuts slightly while vehicle on ground.
- Lift and support: raise vehicle at correct jacking point and support on jack stands; remove wheel.
- Remove caliper assembly: remove caliper bolts, carefully lift caliper off rotor, and hang it with a bungee/zip tie — do not let it hang by the brake hose.
- Remove pads and caliper bracket (if applicable): take out pads and remove caliper mounting bracket if required to access rotor.
- Remove rotor: remove any retaining screw(s). If rotor is stuck from corrosion, apply penetrating oil, hit rotor face around the hub with a rubber mallet, or use a rotor puller.
- Inspect hub and components: clean mating surface with wire brush; inspect hub for damage and bearing play.
- Check rotor thickness and decide: measure thickness or compare condition; if replacing, slide new rotor onto hub.
- Reassemble: reinstall caliper bracket, fit new pads, compress caliper piston (open brake fluid reservoir cap first), mount caliper and torque bolts to spec, apply anti-seize to hub contact area (avoiding braking surface), and replace wheel.
- Lower and torque wheel nuts: lower vehicle so tire contacts ground slightly and torque lug nuts to manufacturer specification with a torque wrench in a star pattern.
- Bed-in pads and rotors: perform an initial bedding procedure of several moderate stops from 30–40 mph to 5–10 mph to properly mate pads and rotor — follow pad manufacturer’s bedding recommendation.
- Final checks: recheck lug torque after short test drive, check brake fluid level, confirm no leaks, and ensure pedal feel is firm.

- Important cautions and final notes:
- Always use the correct torque values for lug nuts and caliper/bracket bolts — consult the Mitsubishi Delica L300 service manual or a reliable source for the exact numbers.
- Replace rotors in axle pairs (both fronts) to maintain brake balance; same for pads.
- Do not get grease or oil on braking surfaces — clean with brake cleaner if contamination occurs.
- Dispose of old brake fluid and parts according to local regulations.
- If you experience grinding, pulling to one side, soft pedal, or leaks during reassembly or test drive, stop and consult a professional mechanic.

- Quick parts checklist to buy before starting:
- Pair of front rotors (correct fit for L300 year/model)
- Pair of front brake pads (matching caliper)
- Caliper hardware kit (pins/boots/clips) if original is corroded
- Brake cleaner, anti-seize, caliper grease
- Any replacement bolts or rotor retaining screws if corroded

Follow these steps and tool uses carefully. If you want exact torque specs or OEM part numbers for your specific Delica L300 year and drivetrain, consult a factory service manual or parts supplier before beginning.
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Tools & parts you will need
- Basic hand tools: screwdrivers, pliers (needle-nose and hose clamp pliers), small picks.
- Flashlight.
- Hand-held vacuum pump with gauge (diagnostic vacuum pump) — essential for testing components and check valves.
- Vacuum gauge (inline manifold vacuum gauge) for manifold testing.
- Replacement vacuum hose: vacuum-rated rubber or silicone hose in correct inner diameter (commonly 4, 5 or 6 mm on older Mitsubishi engines). Buy a roll and cut to length.
- Replacement check valves / one‑way valves (if originals fail).
- Small hose clamps or spring clips (only if original used clamps).
- Zip ties or loom for routing.
- Clean rags, small container for removed clamps/parts.
- Optional: smoke machine for locating leaks, but not required.
- Safety: eye protection, gloves, wheel chocks.

Safety precautions (read first)
- Work on a cold engine when removing hoses; many vacuum lines run near the exhaust and will be hot.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Disconnect battery only if you will be unplugging electrical components or if the manufacturer’s manual requires it; otherwise not necessary for vacuum hose changes.
- Do not use fuel-line hose or non-vacuum-rated PVC tubing; they collapse or melt under heat.
- If using compressed air for leak testing, use very low pressure and avoid forcing air into intake components. Prefer hand vacuum pump or smoke machine.
- Keep loose clothing/hands away from belts and pulleys when engine is running for any functional tests.

Step-by-step: inspect, test, remove & replace vacuum hoses
1) Identify hose network and document routing
- Find the vacuum hose routing diagram in the service manual or take clear photos before removing anything.
- Note components served: brake booster, intake manifold vacuum port, EGR, PCV, idle control, distributor vacuum advance (if present), emissions canisters.

2) Visual inspection
- With engine cold, inspect every hose for cracks, hardening, oil contamination, spongy sections, splits, or collapsed ends.
- Check for brittle areas where hoses were clamped or contacted hot surfaces.
- Inspect check valves: squeeze and listen/feel, or remove for bench testing.

3) Label and document
- If you will remove several hoses, label each end with tape and take photos to ensure correct reassembly.

4) Test suspicious hoses and valves with a hand vacuum pump
- Disconnect the hose at one end and attach the vacuum pump to the component (or to the hose).
- Pull vacuum on the pump to the normal operating level (hand pump will show inches of mercury or mmHg). Hold 30–60 seconds.
- If the gauge holds steady, that hose/connection and internal component is likely good. If it leaks down, the leak is in the hose, fittings, or the component.
- Test check valves by applying vacuum from each side—one direction should hold, the other should not pass. Replace if it does not hold.

5) Locating hard-to-find leaks (optional)
- Use a smoke machine: introduce smoke into the intake vacuum line or manifold while engine is off and watch for smoke escaping.
- Alternatively, spray a small amount of carb cleaner around hose connections while engine idling (use caution — flammable, use sparingly and outdoors). If idle changes, that spot may be leaking. Prefer non-flammable methods where possible.

6) Removing old hoses
- Use pliers or a pick to loosen clamps and gently twist and pull hoses off fittings. Avoid prying against plastic nipples.
- Cut through badly stuck hoses with a sharp razor and peel off remnants from barb fittings. If nipples are damaged, they may need replacement.

7) Selecting replacement hose and parts
- Use vacuum-rated hose (EPDM rubber or silicone) sized to the original inner diameter. Common sizes: 4mm, 5mm, 6mm — measure the fitting diameter before buying.
- Replace any check valves or vacuum reservoir canisters that are cracked or not holding vacuum.
- Replace clamps only if originals are corroded; most vacuum hoses are friction-fit and do not need heavy clamps.

8) Installing new hoses
- Cut hose to exact length; avoid extra long runs or tight bends that will kink.
- Slide hose fully onto barbed fittings until it seats against the shoulder. If original used spring clips, re-fit them; otherwise friction fit is usually sufficient.
- Ensure correct orientation of check valves (flow arrow or seat points toward manifold where appropriate). If unsure, match orientation from photos or manual.
- Route hoses away from hot exhaust, sharp edges, and moving parts. Use zip ties/loom to secure.
- Replace any vacuum line tees or connectors that are brittle.

9) Re-test after installation
- With everything reconnected, start the engine and observe idle, vacuum gauge reading at a manifold vacuum port: a healthy idle vacuum is typically 16–22 inHg (check service manual for exact spec).
- Use the hand vacuum pump to test the function of components (brake booster should hold vacuum; EGR or idle actuators should hold vacuum as required).
- Check for rough idle, unusual hissing sounds, or vacuum gauge drop — indicates a leak or misrouted hose.

10) Final checks
- Road test to confirm braking function (booster) and engine drivability under load.
- Re-inspect routing after short run to ensure hoses haven’t shifted or rubbed.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Using the wrong hose: do not use fuel line, garden hose, or PVC. Use vacuum-rated hose sized correctly — wrong ID leads to leaks or collapse.
- Forgetting check-valve orientation: one-way valves must face correct direction or systems (brake booster, evap) won’t work.
- Leaving hoses too long or kinked: causes restriction and poor system response.
- Re-using brittle clamps or cracked connectors: replace small plastic connectors that appear brittle.
- Confusing vacuum lines with fuel lines or coolant hoses: double-check before cutting or disconnecting.
- Over-tightening clamps: crushes hose and causes failure; use proper small spring clamps or no clamp if factory used a friction fit.
- Not documenting routing: leads to incorrect reassembly and drivability problems—take pictures.

How the main tools are used (quick)
- Hand vacuum pump: attach to hose or component port, pump to create vacuum, read gauge. Used to check whether a hose or component will hold vacuum and to operate vacuum actuators for testing.
- Vacuum gauge (manifold): connect to intake manifold vacuum port to read live engine vacuum; useful to evaluate engine health and to detect leaks (low steady vacuum, or fluctuating vacuum indicates issues).
- Smoke machine: injects visible smoke into vacuum system to reveal leaks visually. Connect to intake manifold or hose after removing airbox; observe escaping smoke.

Replacement parts typically required
- Vacuum hose (correct sizes, vacuum-rated).
- One-way check valves (replace if faulty).
- Vacuum reservoir (if cracked or leaking).
- Small hose clamps or spring clips if originals corrupted.
- Vacuum tees/connectors if brittle.

Done. Replace hoses methodically, use a hand vacuum pump to verify, and keep routing correct.
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