- Safety & preparation
- Work in a clean, well-lit, ventilated area on a flat surface. Use wheel chocks and level ground.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and steel-toe shoes. Avoid loose clothing around rotating parts.
- Use quality jack stands and a transmission jack or engine support—never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Have the Mitsubishi Delica L300 factory service manual or a reliable repair manual on hand for bolt locations, torque specs, hydraulic line routing, and exploded diagrams.
- Drain transmission fluid into an appropriate container and dispose of it according to local regulations.

- Basic tools (what they are and how to use them)
- Combination wrench set (open and boxed ends)
- Used for bolts/nuts where a socket won’t fit. Box end gives better grip; open end for quick turning. Choose correct size and pull toward the boxed end for leverage.
- Socket set with ratchet (metric)
- Ratchet handle plus sockets; use for most gearbox bolts. Use the correct socket size and avoid extensions with high leverage for small bolts. Use a breaker bar for stuck bolts, then torque wrench for final tightening.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Adjustable wrench calibrated to specified torque. Set to factory torque for critical bolts (main case, output flange, mounting bolts). Tighten smoothly until it clicks; do not over-torque.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For clamps, covers, and small screws. Use the correct head and size to avoid rounding.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose)
- For clips, clamps, and holding small parts. Needle-nose for reach into tight areas.
- Snap-ring (circlip) pliers (internal and external)
- Special pliers with tips that fit into circlip holes. Use internal type to compress internal rings, external type to expand external rings. Keep firm control to avoid losing rings.
- Hammer (ball-peen) and dead-blow mallet
- Dead-blow for assembly/disassembly to avoid damage; ball-peen for light tapping. Never hit hardened steel with hard metal hammer directly on bearings/shafts—use a drift.
- Punches and drifts (various diameters) and a brass drift
- For tapping out roll pins, dowels, shafts. Use brass drift when hitting softer surfaces to avoid marring.
- Pry bars and trim tools
- For gently separating housings and seals. Use plastic pry tools to protect aluminum gearbox casing.
- Torque screwdriver (optional)
- For smaller torque-critical screws (selector plate, etc.) where necessary.
- Fluid drain pan and funnel
- For collecting and refilling transmission fluid without spills.
- Shop rags and solvent (parts cleaner)
- For cleaning parts and inspecting wear.

- Specialized tools and why they’re required (detailed descriptions and use)
- Transmission jack or dedicated gearbox jack
- Heavy, low-profile jack with safety straps. Supports and lowers the transmission safely during removal/reinstallation. Essential to avoid dropping the gearbox.
- Hydraulic press (bench press) or arbor press
- Used to press bearings, hubs, sleeves on/off shafts, and to install synchro rings without damaging them. Apply steady, centered force; use appropriate press adapters to avoid bending shafts.
- Gear puller (two- or three-jaw)
- Pulls gears or bearings that are tightly fitted on shafts. Attach evenly to avoid cocking the gear; pull slowly and evenly.
- Bearing puller / blind bearing puller set
- Extracts bearings seated in a way a standard puller can’t reach. Prevents damaging the gearbox housing.
- Bearing installer set (drifts sized to bearing OD)
- Installs new bearings squarely. Tap the installer against outer race only to avoid stressing the bearing.
- Feeler gauges and dial indicator (with magnetic base)
- Measure clearance, end play, and backlash. Required to ensure proper shim stack and endplay when reassembling; crucial for gearbox life and proper shifting.
- Seal driver / seal puller
- Removes and installs oil seals without damage.
- Snap-ring plier die sets / circlip removal kit
- Multiple tip sizes for varying ring hole sizes; prevents bending or losing rings.
- Clutch alignment tool (if removing clutch to access transmission)
- Aligns clutch disk during reinstallation so input shaft engages easily.

- Why specialized tools are required
- Press and pullers prevent damage to shafts, bearings, and housings that a hammer or improvised tools would cause.
- Dial indicator and feeler gauges ensure correct endplay and shim thickness; incorrect clearance leads to noisy, premature failure.
- Transmission jack avoids personal injury and gearbox damage during removal.

- Common replacement parts for synchronizer repair and why they may be needed
- Synchronizer (synchro) rings / baulk rings (usually brass)
- Wear causes poor matching of gear speeds and grinding or difficulty shifting. Replace if grooves, glazing, chips, or excessive wear are visible.
- Synchronizer hub and sleeve assembly (hub, sleeve, keys)
- Wear or damaged splines, shift teeth, or keys cause jumping out of gear or inability to engage a gear. Replace if teeth are worn or the sleeve binding occurs.
- Shift forks
- Bent or worn fork contact areas cause poor engagement. Replace or refinish if worn grooves or bending present.
- Needle bearings / roller bearings and bushings (input/mainshaft/layshaft bearings)
- Worn or pitted bearings cause noise and shaft misalignment; replace when play or roughness is detected.
- Seals and gaskets (case gasket, output seal, input seal)
- Always replace when axle/shaft removed to avoid leaks.
- Main shaft or input shaft (rare)
- Replace only if splines or journal surfaces are badly damaged beyond repair.
- Shift rails and detent components
- If worn, can cause poor selector indexing; replace as needed.
- Transmission fluid
- Replace with correct grade per manual on reassembly.

- How to inspect parts to decide replacement
- Clean parts with solvent; inspect with good light and magnification.
- Synchronizer rings: check inner friction surface for wear grooves, shiny glazing, cracked teeth, or uneven wear.
- Hubs/sleeves: inspect splines and shift teeth for rounding, burrs, or galling.
- Bearings: rotate by hand—listen/feel for roughness; check radial/end play.
- Shafts: check journals for scoring and measure diameters if you have micrometers.
- Shift forks: inspect contact pad flatness and thickness; check for bends.

- Step-by-step procedure (high-level sequence; follow factory manual for final detail and torque specs)
- Prepare vehicle: disconnect battery, raise vehicle, remove drive shafts/axles or propshaft, remove clutch assembly if necessary, and disconnect shift linkage.
- Drain transmission fluid and label/remove external linkages, speedometer cable, electrical connectors, and mounting bolts.
- Support the engine (if necessary) and remove transmission bolts, then lower transmission carefully on the transmission jack.
- Clean exterior of transmission before opening to avoid contamination.
- Remove bell housing and detach input shaft from clutch/torque converter per manual.
- Disassemble gearbox: remove selector mechanism, snap rings, bearing caps, and separation bolts to split the case halves.
- Use snap-ring pliers and pullers to remove gears, hubs, and bearings. Use press to remove/install hubs and sleeves; mark orientation and order of all components as you remove them.
- Inspect all components per inspection list above. Measure endplay, bearing bores, and gear engagement faces with feeler gauges/dial indicator.
- Replace worn/fractured synchro rings with exact OEM equivalents or matched aftermarket kits. Replace hub/sleeve/keys if detent teeth are worn.
- Install new bearings and seals using the bearing installer and seal drivers; press bearings squarely onto shafts.
- Reassemble gearbox in reverse order, using new gaskets/seals; use shims per manual to achieve correct endplay and backlash. Use feeler gauges and dial indicator to verify.
- Torque all fasteners to factory specs with torque wrench. Check selector mechanism engagement and neutral position.
- Bench-shift test: operate gear selection with the gearbox out of the vehicle (manual shifting through gears by selector) to confirm smooth engagement and no binding.
- Reinstall transmission to vehicle, reconnect linkage, clutch, drive shafts, and electrical connections.
- Refill transmission to the correct fluid level with the grade specified in the manual.
- Road test carefully, checking for proper shifting, noises, and leaks.

- Practical tips for a beginner
- Label and bag every bolt and small part in the order removed; photograph assemblies as you go.
- Work slowly and keep the workspace clean—dirt is the enemy of transmissions.
- Replace all worn synchronizer rings in the same set; mixing new and old rings can lead to uneven shifting.
- If you don’t have a press or bearing tools, many shops will press bearings for you for a small fee—plan to use a press for any interference-fit parts.
- If you lack a dial indicator and feeler gauges, a shop can set endplay and backlash for you; incorrect settings will shorten life dramatically.

- When you should replace major components or get professional help
- Replace hub/sleeve when teeth or splines are visibly worn; replacing only rings won’t fix a stripped hub.
- Replace shafts only if journals or splines are damaged beyond repair; these require precise machining or replacement parts.
- Seek professional help if you lack a transmission jack, press, dial indicator, or experience with shims/endplay—these steps are critical for safe, long-lived repair.
- Consider a full transmission rebuild or replacement if multiple gears/bearings are worn, there is metal contamination in the fluid, or casing/journal damage exists.

- Consumables and replacement part checklist to buy before starting
- Synchro ring kit (specific to L300 gearbox) or OEM part numbers from manual
- Hub/sleeve assembly (if worn)
- Bearings and seals for input, main, and layshafts
- Case gasket or RTV sealant as recommended
- Transmission fluid (manufacturer-specified grade and quantity)
- Snap rings, circlips, and any small fasteners that appear corroded
- Solvent, rags, and assembly grease (for bearings and splines)

- Final safety & quality checks
- Verify torque on all critical bolts after first road test.
- Check for fluid leaks and proper fluid level when the vehicle is at operating temperature and on level ground.
- Re-check shift feel after a short break-in period (100–200 km) and re-torque if necessary.

- Last note (direct)
- This repair requires specialized tools (press, bearing pullers, dial indicator) and careful measurement. If you don’t have them or feel unsure, use a transmission shop for pressing and final endplay/backlash setup to avoid costly mistakes.
rteeqp73

MD337967 banqueo de ECU( Mitsubishi Delica) 4G64

1996 mitsubishi Delica L300 4WD得利卡 Chassis overhaul 更換上三腳架方向機惰桿煞車分泵前輪軸承牛擔座焊修.

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Tools & supplies needed
- Socket set (metric sockets: 8mm, 10mm commonly), ratchet, 6" extension.
- Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers.
- Trim panel / plastic pry tools.
- Needle-nose pliers.
- Torx bits (T20/T25) — some panels/fasteners may use these.
- Multimeter (voltage/check continuity).
- Replacement blower motor assembly (ensure correct model for Delica/L300 — 12V, correct connector and wheel orientation).
- Replacement blower motor resistor (strongly recommended).
- Dielectric grease, small wire brush or contact cleaner.
- Shop gloves, safety glasses, flashlight.
- Containers for screws/fasteners, clean rags.

Safety precautions
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting to avoid shorts and accidental blower operation.
- Work with ignition OFF and key removed.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; confined knee/elbow work under dash can pinch skin.
- Support removed panels so they don’t drop and break clips.
- Avoid forcing plastic clips — use pry tools to prevent breakage.

Overview
On the Mitsubishi Delica L300 the blower motor is located under the passenger-side dash (behind lower glovebox/kick panel). Replacement consists of removing lower trim, unbolting motor housing, unplugging wiring, removing motor assembly, fitting the new motor (and usually replacing the resistor), and reassembling.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Prepare vehicle
- Park on level ground, set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal and tape it aside.

2) Remove lower passenger trim / glovebox access
- Open glovebox and empty contents.
- Remove glovebox stops or lower glovebox panel (use flat screwdriver to release retainers). If there’s a lower kick panel, remove its screws (usually 8/10mm or Phillips). Use trim tools to pop out plastic clips.
- Remove any under-dash covers until you can see the blower housing (cylindrical housing with plastic fan inlet).

3) Locate blower motor and resistor
- Identify the blower motor assembly: cylindrical housing with fan (squirrel cage) and electrical connector(s). The resistor is usually mounted to the housing with 2 screws and has a multi-pin connector.

4) Remove electrical connectors and take note
- Unplug the blower motor electrical connector. Use needle-nose pliers if clip is stiff. Use contact cleaner if corroded.
- Unplug the blower motor resistor connector (if present). It’s recommended to replace the resistor while here.

5) Remove mounting fasteners
- Using the socket (often 8mm or 10mm) remove the screws/bolts securing the blower motor housing to the HVAC box. There are usually 3 bolts around the motor flange.
- Support the motor assembly with one hand as you remove the last fastener so it doesn’t drop.

6) Extract blower motor assembly
- Gently pull the blower motor straight out of the housing. Note orientation so you install the replacement the same way.
- If the fan (squirrel cage) is separate from the motor, carefully slide it off. If you intend to reuse the wheel, check for wear and balance; replacing the whole assembly is easier and recommended.

7) Inspect and clean
- Inspect housing for debris, leaves, or broken plastic. Clean with a vacuum or rag.
- Inspect electrical connectors for corrosion. Clean contacts and apply dielectric grease lightly.

8) (Recommended) Replace blower motor resistor
- Remove resistor screws and install new resistor. Resistors commonly fail and cause blower only to work on certain speeds — replace now to avoid repeat work.

9) Install new blower motor
- Compare new motor to old to ensure same mounting holes, shaft direction, and connector.
- If the fan wheel is separate, press it onto shaft; ensure set-screw tightened if applicable. Some wheels are friction-fit — align keyway.
- Insert new motor assembly into housing in same orientation. Make sure the flange seats flat and any gasket vs. housing is correct.

10) Fasten motor and reconnect wiring
- Install and tighten mounting bolts snugly (do not overtighten plastic and strip threads).
- Reattach blower motor electrical connector and resistor connector. Use a small amount of dielectric grease on terminals.

11) Reinstall trim panels
- Refit the lower dash panels and glovebox in reverse order of removal. Ensure all clips and screws are restored.

12) Test operation
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- Start vehicle or put ignition to ON and test blower at all speeds. Confirm airflow direction and listen for unusual noises (rubbing, loose fan).
- If blower does not run: check fuse, relay, resistor, and confirm 12V is present at connector with blower switch on using multimeter.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not disconnecting battery: can short circuits or cause blower to run unexpectedly. Always disconnect.
- Breaking plastic clips/panels: use trim tools and gently pry. Keep clips organized; replace broken ones.
- Forgetting to replace resistor: resistor failures are common and will force repeat disassembly. Replace when motor is out.
- Incorrect part selection: verify part fits (connector pins, flange hole pattern, RPM/voltage). Cheap motors may have different fan balance causing noise.
- Fan wheel installed improperly: if you reuse the cage, ensure it’s fully seated and any retaining screw is secure. Loose wheel will vibrate and damage housing.
- Over-tightening screws into plastic: tighten snug, not to metal torque values.
- Neglecting to clean debris: leaves or debris in housing can cause noise and premature failure.
- Wiring damage: don’t pull on wires; release locking tabs first. Repair any brittle or corroded connectors.

How each tool is used (brief)
- Ratchet & sockets: remove/replace bolts holding motor and trim panels. Use extension to reach recessed bolts.
- Screwdrivers: remove smaller screws and pry off trim (flat to pop clips, Phillips for screws).
- Trim pry tool: remove plastic panels without scratching or breaking clips.
- Needle-nose pliers: remove wire clips or stubborn connectors, bend retainer tabs back if needed.
- Multimeter: verify voltage at blower connector and continuity of resistor if troubleshooting.
- Contact cleaner & brush: clean corroded terminals before reconnecting; dielectric grease applied after cleaning to prevent future corrosion.

Replacement parts typically required
- Blower motor assembly (recommended) — ensure OEM or quality aftermarket for correct fit.
- Blower motor resistor — highly recommended to replace at same time.
- Possibly small screws/clip replacements if original clips break.
- Fuse or relay if testing shows electrical fault.

Estimated time
- 1 to 2 hours for experienced tech; longer if trim removal is difficult or resistor is hard to access.

End.
rteeqp73