Tools needed
- Socket set (8–14 mm), ratchet and extensions
- Flat-head screwdriver (wide blade) for worm clamps
- Hose clamp pliers or large slip-joint pliers (for spring clamps)
- Hose removal tool / hose pick (plastic or metal) or small pry bar
- Drain pan (at least 5–10 L)
- Funnel and clean plastic bottles/containers for used coolant
- Gloves (nitrile or mechanics), safety glasses
- Rags, paper towels, shop vacuum (optional) for spills
- Torque wrench (optional) for ancillary bolts
- New coolant (manufacturer spec / 50:50 mix) and distilled water
- Replacement hoses and clamps (recommended new worm/spring clamps)
- Radiator cap (optional replacement) and hose sealant (only if needed)

Safety precautions
- Work on a cold engine. Never open a hot radiator or coolant reservoir — pressurized steam and scalding coolant risk.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Antifreeze is toxic and sweet-tasting; keep away from children and pets.
- Have good ventilation. Clean up spills immediately and dispose of used coolant per local regulations.
- Support the vehicle on level ground and use the parking brake; jack stands if under vehicle.
- Avoid contact between coolant and painted surfaces; wash immediately with water if spilled.

Parts required / recommended
- New radiator/upper/lower/heater hose(s) as required (OEM or quality aftermarket). Replace any hose showing swelling, cracks, soft spots, or internal collapse.
- New clamps: spring clamps for OE type or stainless worm (screw) clamps. Replace old clamps — they lose tension.
- New coolant (enough to refill system after drain). Use Mitsubishi-specified coolant or equivalent long-life ethylene glycol concentrate mixed 50/50 with distilled water.
- Optional: new radiator cap, thermostat gasket (if disturbed), heater hose unions or O-rings if removed.

Step-by-step: replace a radiator/engine coolant hose on a Mitsubishi Delica L300
1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, engine cold, parking brake on.
- Put drain pan under radiator drain petcock or lower hose outlet.
- Remove radiator cap only when cold to relieve any residual pressure.

2) Drain coolant
- Open petcock at bottom of radiator (if present) or loosen lower radiator hose connection to drain into pan.
- Open the expansion tank cap (if sealed) to speed draining.
- Catch and store used coolant in a sealed container for proper disposal.

3) Identify and access the hose
- Locate the hose to be replaced (upper radiator hose, lower hose, heater hose, bypass).
- Remove any components blocking access (air intake duct, shrouds, or battery tray) using appropriate sockets. Keep bolts labeled.

4) Remove clamps
- For spring clamps: use hose clamp pliers or large slip-joint pliers. Compress the clamp, slide it back along the hose, and hold compressed while you prepare to slide hose off. Keep control of clamp — do not let it snap.
- For worm (screw) clamps: use a screwdriver or 8 mm socket. Back out screw several turns and slide clamp back from the joint.

5) Remove hose from fitting
- Twist hose by hand to break the seal. If stuck, use a hose pick or flat screwdriver to carefully pry at the hose end while twisting. Work the pick between hose and metal lip; do not gouge or score the metal fitting.
- If hose is stubborn, cut the hose lengthwise with a utility knife and peel off — avoid cutting into the fitting. Cutting is often easiest on plastic radiator necks to prevent damage.

6) Clean fittings and inspect
- Clean hose nipples and radiator necks with a rag. Remove old clamp impressions, dirt, and corrosion.
- Inspect radiator necks and thermostat housing for cracks or damage. Replace parts if damaged.

7) Fit new hose
- Compare new hose to old: length, bends, and diameter must match. Pre-fit to ensure routing clears other components.
- Slide clamps onto hose before installing the hose on fittings.
- Push hose fully onto the fitting until it seats on the flange. The hose end should cover the fitting lip by several millimeters to the clamp position.
- Position clamps: spring clamp should sit on the bead just behind the hose lip; worm clamp screw should be positioned on the flatter portion of the hose and not over the bead or lip.

8) Tighten clamps
- Spring clamps: release pliers, letting clamp seat against hose. Ensure it returns evenly. Use pliers to nudge if needed.
- Worm clamps: tighten until snug — do not over-tighten. Tighten until the hose cannot be pushed off by hand and the clamp band is flat and parallel to the hose. Over-tightening cuts into the hose and can cause leaks.
- Typical guidance: tighten incrementally; one firm final turn after snug. No need for high torque.

9) Refill cooling system
- Close drain petcock.
- Using a funnel, refill radiator and expansion tank with 50:50 coolant/distilled water mix to the specified level.
- If system has a bleed screw (check near thermostat housing), open it during filling to allow air escape.

10) Bleed air from the system
- Start engine with heater set to maximum heat and blower low. Keep radiator cap off (cold engine). Allow engine to idle; squeeze upper radiator hose periodically to help purge trapped air.
- Watch for coolant flow into the radiator and cessation of bubbles. When thermostat opens (upper hose warms and becomes firm), coolant level may drop — top up.
- Replace radiator cap once no more bubbles appear and level is steady. If vehicle has a specific bleed procedure (check service manual), follow that sequence.

11) Check for leaks and test drive
- With engine at operating temperature, inspect all hose connections for leaks.
- After a short drive and warm-up/cool-down cycle, re-check coolant level and top up if necessary.
- Re-torque or re-position clamps if needed, and dispose of used coolant properly.

How each tool is used (concise)
- Hose clamp pliers: Compress spring clamps and hold them open while sliding clamp back or forward; release slowly so clamp seats evenly.
- Slip-joint pliers: Alternative for spring clamps — compress and slide; maintain control to prevent clamp flying off.
- Flat-head screwdriver: Loosen/tighten worm (screw) clamps and gently pry stubborn hoses (careful not to gouge fittings).
- Hose pick/removal tool: Insert thin blade between hose and fitting, cut the adhesion by working around the circumference. Prevents damage to metal necks.
- Socket/ratchet: Remove brackets, shrouds, and battery trays that block access.
- Funnel: Pour coolant without spilling.
- Drain pan: Collect drained coolant; prevents spills.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Working on a hot engine — risk of scalding. Wait until fully cool.
- Reusing old clamps — they may lose tension and leak. Always replace if possible.
- Cutting or gouging metal fittings with screwdriver — use a hose pick or knife carefully; rotate hose while easing off.
- Incorrect clamp placement — placing clamp over the bead or too close to hose edge causes leaks. Position clamp behind hose lip on bead.
- Over-tightening worm clamps — can slice hose or deform fitting; tighten snug, not excessive.
- Trapped air causing overheating — properly bleed system, open bleed screws if present, run engine with heater on.
- Using wrong coolant — use OEM spec; mixing incompatible coolants can reduce corrosion protection.
- Not testing under load — after install, test drive and recheck both clamps and coolant level.

Disposal and environmental
- Store used coolant in a sealed container and take it to an appropriate recycling or hazardous waste center. Do not pour down drains or onto ground.

Time estimate
- Simple upper hose replacement: 30–60 minutes.
- Lower hose or hard-to-access heater hose: 1–2 hours depending on access and removal of obstructing components.

Done.
rteeqp73

Auction JDM Mitsubishi Delica L300 - The Forgotten 4x4 Van While at an auto auction, I came across this JDM Mitsubishi Delica L300 Star Wagon. Why is this car here at a vehicle auction?

Will a Delica roll and crash easily? DelicaWorks lifted L300 fights this rumor back.

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