Tools & consumables
- Basic metric socket set (8–19 mm), deep sockets, 1/2" & 3/8" ratchets, extensions, universal joint.
- Combination wrench set (8–19 mm).
- Torque wrench (range to 0–150 Nm).
- Breaker bar.
- Screwdrivers (flat & Phillips).
- Pliers, needle-nose, snap-ring pliers (if needed).
- Wire brush & small wire wheel (or toothbrush + brake cleaner).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster / WD‑40).
- Hammer & brass drift (or dead‑blow).
- Bench vise (padded) or bench mounts for testing.
- Multimeter (DC volts & continuity).
- Jumper cables or heavy gauge test leads for bench testing (or a bench power supply).
- Fine grit sandpaper (600–1200) or a commutator stone.
- Small files, emery cloth.
- Electrical contact cleaner / brake cleaner.
- High‑temperature grease for splines, dielectric grease.
- Thread locker (medium strength blue).
- Safety glasses, gloves, jack, jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Replacement parts: starter rebuild kit (brushes, springs, bushings/bearings, solenoid contacts if available), new bendix/overrunning clutch if worn, or a complete starter assembly if beyond repair. New mounting bolts or anti‑corrosion washers if original damaged. Battery terminal bolts if corroded.

Safety precautions (read & follow)
- Work on a cold engine, in a well‑ventilated area. Park on level ground and chock wheels.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal first and verify power is off with a multimeter.
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands before going under — never rely on a jack only.
- Avoid shorting the battery positive to chassis while starter is connected; keep metal tools away from terminals.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, keep fingers clear of pinch points.
- Use suitable lifting/holding methods — starter is heavy and awkward.

Overview of what you’ll do
1) Verify symptoms and test electrical system. 2) Remove starter from vehicle. 3) Bench-test & disassemble starter. 4) Inspect/replace wear items (brushes, bushings, Bendix/clutch, solenoid contacts). 5) Reassemble, bench-test. 6) Reinstall, torque, final electrical checks and road test.

Step-by-step: preliminary checks (do these before removal)
1. Check battery voltage: battery at rest should be ~12.6 V. Under crank should not drop below ~10 V ideally.
2. Check starter voltage at main terminal while attempting crank (helper turns key): you should see near battery voltage at starter main terminal. If voltage is present and starter doesn’t turn, starter likely mechanical/electrical inside.
3. Check ground continuity between battery negative and engine block/chassis. Clean any bad ground connections.

Locate starter on Mitsubishi Delica L300
- Starter mounted to bellhousing/transmission on lower engine flank (usually passenger side). It bolts into the bellhousing and has two heavy conductors: the battery feed and a small solenoid trigger lead.

Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal and secure away.
2. Raise vehicle safely (jack + stands) to access the starter from below if needed; chock wheels.
3. Spray penetrating oil on starter mounting bolts and heavily corroded nuts. Let soak 10–15 min.
4. Disconnect wiring from starter:
- Remove nut on battery positive feed (large gauge cable) and pull the ring terminal off. Keep track of insulating covers.
- Remove small solenoid trigger wire (usually 1–2 mm) and label or note position.
- Remove any ground strap if present.
Use a deep socket and ratchet for the big nut, small socket/wrench for trigger lead.
5. Support starter with one hand (or a second person) or place a transmission jack/strap under it.
6. Remove starter mounting bolts (usually 2 bolts). Use extensions/universal joint as needed. Keep bolts and washers in order.
7. Remove starter from bellhousing — sometimes it’s tight: tap gently with a brass drift or dead-blow hammer to free it. Avoid prying on bellhousing surfaces.
8. Inspect flywheel ring gear through opening for obvious damage.

Bench removal & testing
1. Clean exterior to remove grime so disassembly is easier.
2. Perform bench test before full teardown: Clamp starter body in padded vise so pinion and commutator are accessible and won’t touch metal. Using jumper cables:
- Connect negative of a charged 12V battery to starter casing (ground).
- Briefly touch positive to the large terminal (hot) and jumper the small solenoid terminal to the hot to energize solenoid.
- Motor should spin and pinion should extend (or spin freely in case of remote solenoids). If nothing happens, solenoid or motor failed.
Use extreme caution — cables can spark.

Disassembly (typical starter type: drive + solenoid on nose)
1. Remove solenoid mounting screws/nuts and separate solenoid from starter assembly; note shims or spacers.
2. Remove end cap (commutator end) screws/bolts and remove brushes assembly carefully (springs will push brushes).
3. Remove solenoid connector and any retaining clips on the drive/bendix.
4. Extract armature (slide out from housing) — note orientation.
5. Remove nose cone and inspect bendix/overrunning clutch, pinion teeth, splines for wear.
6. Inspect bushings/bearings at both ends for play and scoring. Check armature shaft for straightness and wear.
7. Inspect commutator for heavy grooving, burning, pitting. Clean with fine sandpaper or commutator stone; do not remove excessive material. Clean slots with wooden stick and contact cleaner.
8. Check brushes: measure length vs new brushes spec. If worn near the limit or springs weak, replace.
9. Solenoid: inspect plunger for pitting, clean, and check contacts. If solenoid contacts are burned or pitted beyond visible repair, replace solenoid or rebuild kit.

How to use tools during disassembly
- Ratchet & sockets: remove external fasteners. Use extensions for recessed bolts; universal joint helps reach awkward angles.
- Penetrating oil: apply to stuck bolts, let soak, then use breaker bar to loosen.
- Multimeter: check continuity of coil windings and solenoid coil resistance (specs vary but typical solenoid coil ~1–5 Ω; main motor a few milliohms — measure for gross faults).
- Hammer/drift: free stuck housing halves or starter from bellhousing; use brass drift to avoid damaging metal.
- Wire brush & contact cleaner: clean terminals and commutator.
- Sandpaper/commutator stone: lightly polish commutator segments to remove glazing; clean between segments.

Inspection criteria & replacement parts
- Brushes: replace if <50% of original length or spring tension weak. Always replace worn brushes as a set.
- Bushings/bearings: replace if radial play >0.5–1.0 mm, or if rough when rotated.
- Commutator: replace or turn on lathe if deep grooving >0.5 mm; light wear can be dressed by hand.
- Bendix/overrunning clutch: replace if teeth worn, binding, or slipping.
- Solenoid: replace or rebuild if contacts pitted, plunger sticky, or no action.
- Armature: replace if burnt windings, excessive wear, or shorted coils (test with growler or insulation test).
If multiple items worn, cost of parts vs replacement starter: consider a remanufactured or new starter.

Reassembly
1. Fit new bushings if replaced; lightly lubricate bushings with a thin film of appropriate grease if required by kit (do not overgrease commutator area).
2. Reinstall armature carefully and verify free rotation.
3. Reinstall brushes ensuring springs seat correctly; make sure brush leads are properly attached and insulated.
4. Reinstall solenoid, ensure plunger stroke is free and contacts align.
5. Reassemble housing, tighten screws/nuts; use medium thread locker on mounting bolts if threads are clean/corrosion-free (not on electrical studs).
6. Grease pinion splines lightly with high-temp grease (not on teeth).
7. Bench test again as above — motor spins, solenoid operates, no unusual noises or smoke.

Reinstallation
1. Clean mounting face on bellhousing, ensure no debris between starter & housing.
2. Position starter into bellhousing, start mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross‑threading.
3. Torque starter mounting bolts to around 40–60 Nm (30–45 ft‑lb) — common M10 bolts are often tightened to ~40–55 Nm. (If you have exact factory spec for L300 use it; this range is suitable for M10 bolts on many starters.)
4. Reconnect battery positive feed to starter and secure nut (ensure tight and clean). Torque battery cable terminals moderate — 8–12 Nm typical for small bolts; for large studs tighten snugly so connection is solid.
5. Reconnect small solenoid trigger lead and any ground strap.
6. Reconnect battery negative last.

Final checks & testing
1. Verify all tools removed from engine bay.
2. Turn key: starter should crank immediately, engage smoothly, and disengage after engine starts. Listen for grinding (gear slam into ring gear), whine (overrunning clutch slipping), or dragging.
3. Voltage drop test: while cranking measure voltage at battery negative-to-positive — drop under load ideally above ~9.5–10 V (depends on battery health). Measure voltage at starter main terminal vs battery negative while cranking — voltage drop between battery and starter should be <0.5 V ideally (a bit more acceptable up to 1 V). High drop indicates poor connections.
4. Check for oil leaks around starter or fluids that may have contaminated it; correct causes.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not disconnecting the battery: leads to sparks, shorts. Always disconnect negative first.
- Stripped or rounded bolt heads: use proper sized sockets, breaker bar, penetrating oil. If seized, heat the bolt (careful around surrounding components) or use impact tools with caution.
- Cross‑threading starter bolts during reinstallation: start bolts by hand first.
- Over‑greasing commutator or use of inappropriate grease on electrical parts: causes insulation/contamination. Use grease only on splines and bushing lubrication points per kit instructions.
- Reusing worn brushes/bushings: will give short life; replace worn parts in sets.
- Damaging ring gear teeth when fitting starter: ensure pinion fully retracts before installing; hand‑turn starter to confirm movement if possible.
- Improper torque on battery/starter bolts: under‑torque causes heating/sparking; over‑torque strips threads. Use torque wrench.
- Ignoring corroded battery cables and chassis ground: bad grounds cause starter failures; clean or replace as needed.
- Not bench testing before installation: saves time—don’t install a bad starter.

When to replace rather than rebuild
- Armature windings burnt, shorted or out-of-tolerance.
- Severe commutator damage requiring lathe work not practical for DIY.
- Solenoid and motor both badly worn — full replacement often more cost‑effective.
- If cost of parts approaches price of reman/new starter, replace.

Typical replacement parts list (common)
- Starter rebuild kit: brushes, springs, insulating pieces, solenoid contacts.
- New solenoid (if not included).
- New bendix/pinion/clutch.
- New bushings/bearings.
- New starter assembly (reman or new) if major damage.
- New mounting bolts or washers if corroded.
- Battery terminal and heavy cable if corroded.

Quick troubleshooting notes
- Click but no crank: solenoid click — check battery under load and solenoid connections; bad solenoid or poor battery.
- No click, no crank: check battery, battery cable to starter, ground.
- Spins but no engage: Bendix/clutch failed or solenoid link not shifting.
- Grinding on engage: misaligned or damaged ring gear or pinion teeth.

That’s the complete practical flow — disconnect battery, remove starter carefully, bench test/disassemble, replace brushes/bushings/solenoid or fit a new starter if needed, reassemble, torque correctly, reconnect and verify cranking and voltage drop.
rteeqp73

1991 Mitsubishi Delica L300 - Skid Plate Install I install the DelicaWorks skid plate! DelicaWorks (Give them a follow!) Website: https://www.delicaworksintl.com/ Instagram: ...

Auction JDM Mitsubishi Delica L300 - The Forgotten 4x4 Van While at an auto auction, I came across this JDM Mitsubishi Delica L300 Star Wagon. Why is this car here at a vehicle auction?

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Scope: procedure below covers de‑glazing / honing the cylinder walls (restoring the cross‑hatch) on a Mitsubishi Delica L300. This is the process you do when replacing piston rings or removing glaze and light wear from the cylinders. If cylinders are out of round or beyond wear limits you must rebore and fit oversize pistons or liners—see “replacement parts” section.

Tools & consumables
- Engine stand (or solid workbench) and basic engine lift if you remove the engine.
- Metric socket/ratchet set, torque wrench, breaker bar, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque angle gauge (if reassembling head).
- Piston ring compressor and ring expander for reassembly.
- Cylinder bore gauge (dial bore gauge) and outside micrometer (to measure piston OD).
- Feeler gauges, straightedge, plastigage (optional for other checks).
- Flexible ball hone (3‑stone or 6‑stone) sized for the bore, or rigid single‑cylinder hone for machine use.
- Electric drill (variable speed) or dedicated hone driver (use drill with torque control).
- Honing oil / cutting oil (appropriate abrasive honing fluid).
- Scotch‑brite pads (for final light cleaning if needed).
- Clean rags, workshop degreaser, parts washer or solvent, hot water and detergent.
- Shop vacuum, compressed air (with nozzle), and a good parts brush.
- PPE: safety glasses, nitrile gloves, respirator (for dust), hearing protection.
- Disposal container for honing slurry (metal particles + oil).

Safety precautions
- Work in a well‑ventilated area and wear a respirator when cleaning slurry/dust.
- Disconnect battery and remove fuel/diesel lines from the engine if it’s out of the vehicle.
- Secure engine on stand; keep block vertical to avoid tool tilt when honing.
- Never use a drill with excessive torque — maintain control; avoid forcing the hone (it can grab and kick).
- Clean all abrasive slurry thoroughly; metal debris left in oil passages will destroy bearings and rings.
- Dispose slurry, used oil, and solvent per local regulations.

Preparation (removal & measurement)
1. Remove cylinder head to access pistons, or remove engine and put on stand — working on a block on a stand is far easier and safer.
2. Remove oil pan, timing components (if interfering), and remove pistons and connecting rods. Mark rods/pistons to maintain original locations.
3. Clean ring grooves and pistons if you plan to re‑use pistons (but typically rings are replaced).
4. Using a dial bore gauge, measure each cylinder at TDC and near BDC, and at 90° and 180° to check taper and out‑of‑round. Compare to factory service limits in the L300 manual.
- If cylinder wear exceeds the factory limit or out‑of‑round beyond spec, DO NOT HONE—rebore or fit new liners/pistons is required.
5. Record piston diameters and compute clearance. If clearance is within spec and cylinders are only glazed or lightly worn, proceed with honing.

Choosing the hone and grit
- Use a flexible 3‑stone ball hone for hand/electric drill work for light to moderate work. Use professional rigid hones for more controlled, heavier material removal at a machine shop.
- Grit guidance:
- Heavy glazing / mild scoring: medium grit (180–240).
- Light deglazing / final finish: fine grit (280–400).
- Honing is mainly to restore cross‑hatch, remove glaze, and produce a surface that accepts new rings. Remove as little metal as possible — typical material removal for a deglaze/hone: ~0.02–0.10 mm (0.0008–0.004 in). Check factory spec.

Honing procedure (step‑by‑step)
1. Prep cylinders: wipe out loose debris. Soak cylinders with honing oil to flush initial dust.
2. Fit hone to drill or hone driver. Place hone fully retracted before inserting into cylinder.
3. Start the drill at low rpm and extend the hone until stones contact the wall lightly—don’t force. Recommended running speed: roughly 400–800 RPM for a hand drill-driven ball hone. Keep speed steady; too fast causes glazing and heat.
4. Move the hone in a slow, steady vertical stroke across the full length of the cylinder while the hone is rotating. Stroke rate roughly 1–2 strokes per second. Keep the hone centered and vertical; do not let it tilt.
5. Apply light, steady pressure — the hone stones do the cutting. Avoid holding the hone in any one spot (no dwelling), which creates low spots/taper.
6. Maintain a consistent travel stroke; the goal is a uniform cross‑hatch pattern. Aim for a cross‑hatch angle of about 30–45° with respect to the bore axis. You’ll see this form on the wall as you hone.
7. Use an appropriate amount of honing oil—keep the stones lubricated and wash away the abrasive slurry. If the drill bogs down, pull out, clean stones, and add fluid.
8. After 10–20 passes (depending on condition), stop and wipe the cylinder with solvent and a lint‑free rag. Inspect the finish and measure diameter with the bore gauge. If you still have glaze or dimensions are not within tolerance, repeat with additional light passes.
9. For finishing, make a few gentle passes with a finer grit to remove coarse scratches and create proper plateau finish for ring seating.
10. After final honing, thoroughly clean each cylinder: flush repeatedly with solvent/hot soapy water, scrub with a parts brush, vacuum chips, blow out with compressed air (point air away from yourself), and then wipe with clean oil to prevent flash rust. Continue cleaning until no gritty feel remains on rags.

How the hone tool is used — practical notes
- Centering and vertical motion are critical. If the hone wanders, you’ll get a tapered or out‑of‑round bore.
- Ball hone expands outward; expansion should be gradual—don’t overexpand so stones press too hard into metal.
- The hone creates an abrasive slurry of metal particles and oil—this slurry is the cutting medium; it must be flushed regularly.
- Stones will glaze with use; remove and clean periodically on a cleaning stone or by running on a soft surface with plenty of oil.
- Keep consistent feed/stroke length and timing to maintain crosshatch angle.

Reassembly and replacement parts
- Always install new piston rings when you hone. Rings are a must.
- Replace head gasket, connecting rod bearings (inspect), main bearings if contaminated, and crank seals as necessary.
- If cylinder measurements revealed wear beyond limits, you will need an overbore and oversized pistons or cylinder liners—this requires machining at a machine shop.
- Replace any piston that shows heavy wear, scuffing, cracks, or excessive skirt damage.
- Replace the oil pan gasket and any removed soft parts if worn.

Final checks
1. After cleaning, dry and coat bores with assembly oil. Fit pistons with new rings and measure ring end gaps in the bore (use feeler gauge and gap to spec).
2. Install pistons/rods, torque rod caps to factory specification.
3. Rotate crank by hand to ensure freedom and correct ring seating.
4. Reassemble head and other components per factory torque and sequence. Use correct torque specs/angles for L300 head bolts.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Leaving abrasive slurry in the block: causes immediate engine damage. Clean thoroughly.
- Over‑honing / removing too much material: leads to excessive piston clearance, blowby, oil consumption or needs oversize pistons.
- Using the wrong hone grit or a worn stone: creates poor finish or deep scratches.
- Allowing the hone to dwell or tilt: creates taper, out‑of‑round, or step at rings travel limits.
- Reusing old rings after honing: rings won’t seat, causing failures.
- Not verifying bore dimensions with a dial bore gauge: guessing can lead to undersize/oversize errors.
- Using excessive speed/pressure: heats the bore, causes glazing or stone glazing and poor finish.

When to send it to a machine shop
- Out‑of‑round or tapered beyond specs.
- Deep scoring/grooves that require more than light stock removal.
- When you lack precision measuring tools or experience to judge cylinder condition and final diameter.

Quick checklist before starting
- Measured bores within allowance? yes → hone. No → rebore.
- New rings on hand? yes → proceed. No → order rings.
- Proper hone size/grit & honing oil? yes → proceed.
- Engine secured, PPE on, battery disconnected, good lighting/ventilation? yes → proceed.

End.
rteeqp73

Tools/parts and short safety: floor jack and stands or lift, transmission jack, engine support/brace, full metric socket/torque set, flywheel holder, clutch alignment tool (manual), pry bars, seal driver or correct-size socket, gasket scraper, solvent, clean rags, new rear main seal (correct part), new retainer gasket or high‑temp RTV, fresh engine oil, drain pan. Disconnect battery, support vehicle and engine/transmission securely, work on level ground.

Ordered procedure with theory (concise):

1) Confirm source is the rear main
- Action: inspect bellhousing, starter area and flywheel housing for oil trails; remove starter for better view.
- Theory: oil leaking from the rear crank seal runs forward into the bellhousing. Rule out valve cover, oil pan or cam seals first. Confirming avoids unnecessary transmission removal.

2) Drain engine oil
- Action: drain oil to remove pressure/volume and reduce mess.
- Theory: working with less oil reduces contamination and fluid loss; new seal must be installed dry/clean.

3) Remove components blocking access
- Action: remove driveshaft(s)/prop, exhaust as required, starter, then disconnect and remove transmission (manual: unbolt clutch/throwout, automatic: remove torque converter/bolts and support converter with transmission jack).
- Theory: rear main seal is at the back of the crankshaft behind the flywheel/flexplate; transmission removal is required for access.

4) Remove flywheel/flexplate (and clutch assembly if manual)
- Action: lock the crank, unbolt flywheel/flexplate and remove. Keep bolts in order or replace if torque-to-yield.
- Theory: exposes crank snout and the seal retainer; correct reinstallation ensures flange flatness and seal seating.

5) Inspect crank snout, rear flange and crank endplay/runout
- Action: clean and visually inspect for scoring, pitting or heavy wear; measure axial endplay and runout if possible.
- Theory: the seal lip rides on the crank snout. Deep grooves or excessive endplay will prevent proper sealing and cause re-leak. If damaged or endplay excessive, repair or crankshaft work is required before replacing the seal.

6) Remove the seal retainer and old seal
- Action: unbolt retainer, carefully pry out the old seal, remove all gasket material.
- Theory: the old elastomer hardens and loses radial preload; retainer/gasket removal exposes the true sealing surfaces.

7) Clean and prepare surfaces
- Action: thoroughly clean crank flange, retainer face and counterbore. Remove old RTV/gasket residue; no scratches.
- Theory: seals and gasket depend on clean, flat mating faces. Debris or gouges provides oil paths and prevents uniform seating.

8) Install new seal (orientation and seating)
- Action: confirm seal orientation (lip faces engine/oil). Lightly coat sealing lip with clean engine oil. Use seal driver/socket and press straight and even to specified depth so the outer face is flush per factory spec; install new retainer and gasket or apply specified RTV.
- Theory: sealing lip must contact crank snout with correct interference/wipe to form a hydrodynamic/wiping seal. Correct depth prevents the lip from riding on chamfers or being overloaded. The retainer/gasket prevents oil bypass around the seal and compresses the seal evenly.

9) Reassemble flywheel/clutch/flexplate
- Action: fit flywheel/flexplate, torque to factory specs and in proper sequence; for manual, reinstall clutch and align with alignment tool.
- Theory: correct torque and flatness ensure no distortion of the crank flange that would compromise the seal; clutch contamination is avoided.

10) Reinstall transmission/torque converter and other removed items
- Action: mate transmission, tighten bolts to spec, reconnect driveshaft, exhaust, starter, battery, etc. Refill engine oil; refill transmission/transfer if drained.
- Theory: correct re-bolting restores original alignment and clearances; filling fluids returns system to service and allows functional leak test.

11) Test and verify
- Action: start engine, bring to operating temp, inspect for leaks around seal retainer and bellhousing, check oil level after first run and after a short drive.
- Theory: under running pressure and thermal expansion the seal will seat; inspection confirms successful restoration of the oil barrier.

Why this fixes the fault (summary):
- The rear main seal prevents engine oil from exiting at the rear crankshaft. Over time the elastomer lip hardens, loses preload, is cut by shaft imperfections or is displaced by incorrect installation/retainer failure. Replacing the seal restores the radial interference and the wiping action against the crank snout. Cleaning/renewing the retainer and gasket eliminates bypass paths. Inspecting and repairing crank damage or excessive axial play addresses root causes that would otherwise destroy the new seal. Proper seating, lubrication and torque restore the concentric contact and eliminate leakage.

Common causes of failure to watch and avoid:
- Installing seal backwards, damaging the lip while fitting, not cleaning mating surfaces, failing to repair crank snout damage or excessive endplay, incorrect seal depth, or reusing a degraded retainer gasket.

End.
rteeqp73