Tools & supplies
- New serpentine (drive) belt sized for your exact vehicle/year (check parts fiche or dealer). Consider replacing tensioner/idler if >80k km or noisy.
- Socket set (metric): 10–19 mm. Common sizes for the YD22 tensioner are 14 mm or a 3/8" or 1/2" square recess — bring both socket/ratchet sizes or a serpentine tool set.
- 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets and breaker bar (long handle helps).
- Serpentine belt tool (thin long handle) or long breaker bar/ratchet extension to reach tensioner.
- Torque wrench (for tensioner pivot bolt if removed).
- Flat screwdriver or small pry bar (for routing help).
- Jack and jack stands only if you need to raise the vehicle for access.
- Gloves, safety glasses, rags, light.
- Pen and phone/camera to record belt routing if no diagram under hood.

Safety first
- Work with engine OFF, key removed. For extra safety you may disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental cranking.
- Allow engine to cool completely before working around pulleys or the exhaust.
- If you raise the vehicle to access lower pulleys, use jack stands on a flat surface.
- Keep fingers and tools clear of fan/blades and rotating parts when testing.
- Hold the tensioner tool firmly; the spring can snap back.

Step‑by‑step replacement

1) Prepare and inspect
- Park on level ground, set parking brake. Open hood and locate the drive belt routing diagram (often under the hood or on the radiator shroud). If none present, take a clear photo of the existing routing before removal.
- Visually inspect pulleys, tensioner, idler, alternator, crank pulley, AC compressor and power steering pulley for play, rust, wobble or rough bearings. Replace tensioner/idler if noisy, seized or has excessive play.

2) Identify the tensioner and determine tool fit
- Locate the automatic belt tensioner (spring-loaded) — a pulley mounted on an arm. Inspect the tensioner head: it will have either a square recess for a ratchet drive or a hex/bolt head. Select the appropriate ratchet/socket or serpentine tool that fits squarely.
- Note direction the tensioner moves to relieve tension (watch the pulley and move the tool a little to see which way slackens the belt).

3) Relieve belt tension and remove old belt
- Position your ratchet/breaker bar or serpentine tool into the tensioner square/bolt. Use the long handle to get good leverage.
- Rotate the tensioner in the direction that releases tension (usually toward the engine block, but confirm on your tensioner). Hold the tensioner in the released position.
- While holding it, slide the belt off the easiest pulley (usually the alternator or idler) and slowly release the tensioner back.
- Remove the belt from the rest of the pulleys and pull it out.

How to use the tool (practical detail):
- Use a long-handled breaker bar or dedicated belt tool for steady controlled movement — a short ratchet can slip out of the recess. Insert the drive fully; never pry with an ill-fitting tool.
- Keep your body out of the arc of the tool in case it slips. Hold the tool and remove the belt while the tensioner is held back; do not let go suddenly.

4) Inspect components thoroughly
- Spin each pulley by hand (with engine off) to check for smooth operation and no free play. Replace any pulley that is noisy, rough or has play.
- Check belt routing once more. If oil/coolant has contaminated the old belt, locate and fix leak before fitting the new belt.

5) Install the new belt
- Route the new belt following the routing diagram/photo. Ensure the ribs of the belt sit properly in the grooves on each ribbed pulley and that the non‑ribbed side is on smooth idler/AC compressor faces as applicable.
- Rotate the tensioner again with the tool and slip the belt over the final pulley (usually the easiest-to-access pulley). Keep tensioner held, seat the belt fully into all pulley grooves, then slowly release tensioner to apply tension.
- Visually confirm the belt is centered in all grooves and not twisted.

6) Final checks
- If you removed any bolts on the tensioner or idler, torque them to factory spec (consult manual). If you only used the tensioner tool, no torque step is necessary beyond reinstalling any removed fasteners.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal if disconnected.
- Start engine and observe belt operation: listen for squeaks, watch tracking on pulleys. Let engine run at idle and visually inspect for correct alignment and no wobble.
- Shut off engine and re-check belt seating and tension. If you have a belt tension gauge or service spec, verify tension against spec. Otherwise, on an automatic tensioner a properly seated belt should not exhibit slack or slip.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong belt routing — always photograph or use the factory routing diagram.
- Using the wrong tool or poor leverage — use a long breaker bar or proper serpentine tool to avoid rounding the tensioner fitting or tool slippage.
- Reusing a worn tensioner/idler — if bearings feel rough or the tensioner arm is slow to return, replace it when installing the new belt.
- Contaminating the new belt with oil or coolant — clean any leaks before installing the new belt.
- Installing the belt backwards or with ribs misaligned — ensure ribbed side seats on grooved pulleys.
- Letting the tensioner snap back uncontrolled — hold the tool in position and release slowly.
- Not checking pulley condition — a worn pulley will rapidly destroy a new belt.

Replacement parts recommended
- New serpentine belt (exact OEM/aftermarket part matched to your vehicle model/year).
- Tensioner assembly (recommended if >80,000 km, noisy, or if you see rubber deterioration).
- Idler pulley(s) if noisy or if the bearing shows play.
- Optional: belt tension gauge (for manual tension systems), anti-seize on any removed bolts (light).

Estimated time
- 30–90 minutes depending on access and whether you replace tensioner/idler.

That’s the procedure — use the correct belt number for your exact YD22DDTi vehicle year/trim, use a long-handled ratchet or serpentine tool on the tensioner, replace worn pulleys/tensioner, and verify alignment and operation before finishing.
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- Scope and quick note
- This guide covers replacing the transmission (automatic gearbox) filter and pan gasket on a Nissan with the YD22DDTi engine. If your vehicle has a manual gearbox it most likely has no user-serviceable transmission filter — this procedure is for automatic transmissions only.
- Safety first: do the work on a level surface, use jack stands (not just a jack), wear gloves and eye protection, and dispose of used fluid legally. If you are uncomfortable at any step, stop and get professional help.

- Required parts (what to replace and why)
- Transmission filter (serviceable element)
- Why: traps clutch material and particles; a clogged filter reduces fluid flow and causes poor shifting and overheating.
- What to buy: OEM or high-quality aftermarket filter specified for your exact transmission model (check VIN / transmission code). Filter may include a rubber O-ring or gasket—replace it.
- Pan gasket or pan gasket kit
- Why: pan gasket seals the pan to the transmission. Reusing the old gasket risks leaks.
- What to buy: cut-to-fit or preformed gasket made for your transmission pan, or a gasketless OEM pan with torque-specified bolts.
- Transmission fluid (correct ATF specification)
- Why: fluid lost when you drop the pan must be replaced with the correct type and volume for safe operation.
- What to buy: the ATF grade specified in the owner’s manual or service manual (Nissan-approved fluid). Do not substitute incompatible fluids.
- Crush washer / drain plug washer (if fitted)
- Why: ensures the drain plug seals and prevents leaks.
- Optional: new pan bolts (if any are corroded) and filter-to-body O-ring if separate.
- Mandatory replacement if heavy metal debris found: consult a transmission specialist — heavy metal indicates internal damage and may require overhaul.

- Tools list (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Jack and axle stands (or a heavy-duty 2-post lift)
- Description: hydraulic jack to lift the vehicle; steel stands to support it safely.
- How to use: lift at the manufacturer’s jacking point, place stands under solid chassis points, lower the vehicle onto stands. Never work under a car supported only by the jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: rubber or block wedges to stop wheels rolling.
- How to use: place behind and in front of wheels still on the ground to prevent movement.
- Metric socket set with ratchet and extensions (common sizes 8–19 mm)
- Description: sockets and ratchet to remove pan bolts and other fasteners; extensions help reach recessed bolts.
- How to use: choose the correct socket size, fit ratchet, turn counterclockwise to loosen bolts. Use an extension to reach bolts; hold the ratchet square to avoid rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Description: wrench that tightens bolts to a specified torque and clicks when reached.
- How to use: set to the correct torque value from the manual, tighten bolts in the recommended pattern and in stages, stop when the wrench clicks.
- Drain pan (large capacity oil catch pan)
- Description: shallow tray that catches transmission fluid when the pan is loosened.
- How to use: position under the pan before loosening bolts; keep it centered to catch all fluid.
- Funnel and fluid pump or long-neck funnel
- Description: funnel to refill the transmission; a hand pump makes filling easier if fill can’t be reached.
- How to use: use pump to add fluid through the dipstick tube or fill port; use a funnel to avoid spills.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: for prying small clips, removing splash shields or loosen clamps.
- How to use: use flat-head carefully to pry without gouging; Phillips for screws.
- Pry bar or plastic trim remover
- Description: to break the seal of the pan if stuck (use plastic tools where possible to avoid metal damage).
- How to use: gently pry at the seam to separate the pan from the transmission case; work evenly around the pan.
- Rubber mallet
- Description: non-marring hammer for persuading pan free.
- How to use: tap the pan gently to break the gasket seal if it’s stuck.
- Clean rags and parts cleaner (brake cleaner or suitable solvent)
- Description: used to clean the pan, magnet, and mating surfaces.
- How to use: spray cleaner and wipe away sludge and old gasket residue; don’t pour solvent into the transmission.
- Small pick or flat blade to remove O-rings
- Description: small pointed tool to extract O-rings or clips.
- How to use: hook and pull O-rings carefully; replace damaged ones.
- Magnet-on-stick (optional) or a clean magnet and towel
- Description: to remove metal flakes and inspect debris.
- How to use: collect debris from the pan and filter area and inspect the size/amount of metal.
- Flashlight or inspection light
- Description: illuminates the work area.
- How to use: position so you can see filter mounting and bolt holes clearly.
- Plastic bag and marker (for bolts)
- Description: bag to keep bolts together and marked for location.
- How to use: place bolts in bag and mark so reinstallation goes back to original places if bolt lengths vary.
- Safety gear: nitrile gloves, safety glasses
- How to use: wear gloves to protect from hot/used fluid and glasses to protect eyes from splashes.
- Optional but useful: service manual or repair sheet for your exact model
- Description: gives bolt torques, fluid type and capacity, and removal diagrams.
- How to use: consult for exact torque values and fill procedures.

- Step-by-step procedure (bullets only)
- Warm the vehicle by briefly running the engine to bring transmission fluid temperature up a little — warm fluid drains more easily. Turn engine off before working.
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels on the opposite end, and lift the vehicle with a jack at a specified jacking point. Place jack stands under a strong support and lower the vehicle onto the stands.
- Locate the transmission pan underneath the vehicle (usually rectangular, bolted to the transmission). Position the drain pan under the center of the pan to catch fluid.
- Loosen the pan bolts progressively and evenly with the socket and ratchet, leaving two opposite corner bolts partially threaded so the pan won’t drop suddenly. If your pan has a drain plug, remove it first to drain most fluid (if present).
- Carefully break the seal and lower the pan — hold it level to avoid spilling fluid. Tip fluid into the drain pan; allow several minutes for most fluid to drain from the filter area.
- Remove the remaining pan bolts and lower the pan clear. Set bolts aside in a bag and note if bolt lengths vary.
- Inspect the pan interior and magnet(s) — wipe off and note the amount and color of metal particles. Small grey powder is typical; large chunks or heavy metal debris indicate internal damage and need professional diagnosis.
- Remove the old transmission filter: typically it is held by a few screws or it pushes into the transmission body. Remove any retaining bolts or clips and pull the filter down and out. Remove the filter O-ring or gasket if separate.
- Compare the new filter to the old one to confirm correct part. Replace the filter O-ring if supplied.
- Clean the transmission mating surface and pan: scrape off old gasket material carefully with a plastic scraper, wipe with parts cleaner, and dry. Remove all debris from the pan and clean the magnet; re-install the magnet if it was removable.
- Fit the new filter into position and secure with its screws/clips per the filter kit instructions. Lubricate filter O-ring lightly with clean transmission fluid before fitting.
- Fit the new pan gasket to the pan (or apply RTV if the kit specifies). Position the pan and hand-thread bolts to hold it in place.
- Tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern progressively to seat the gasket evenly. Finish tightening with the torque wrench to the specified torque in the service manual; if you don’t have the manual, tighten evenly to a firm snug — do not overtighten as you can crush the gasket or strip threads.
- Lower the vehicle enough to reach the dipstick or fill port (or fill with pump as required). Refill with the correct type of transmission fluid as specified by Nissan for your transmission. Add less than full capacity at first, then check fluid level per the manufacturer’s warm/cold-level procedure.
- Start the engine, shift through all gears (with foot on brake) to circulate fluid, and recheck the fluid level with the engine running and at operating temperature as per the manual; add fluid to bring the level to the correct mark.
- Look and feel for leaks under the vehicle with the engine running and after a short drive. Re-torque bolts if the manual specifies to do so after initial run-in.
- Clean up spilled fluid and properly dispose of used transmission fluid and the old filter/gasket according to local regulations.

- Signs that additional parts or service may be required
- Heavy metal chunks, copper-ish particles, or a lot of ferrous debris on the magnet: indicates internal wear — stop and have a transmission specialist inspect.
- Persistent leaks after replacing gasket and bolts: may need a new pan (warped) or new pan-to-body sealing surface work.
- Unusual noises, slipping, or erratic shifting after filter change: suspect internal issues or wrong fluid — consult a professional.

- Quick filler on fluid type, capacity and torque notes (safety/accuracy)
- Use the exact ATF grade specified by Nissan for your transmission model (consult owner’s manual, service manual, or parts department). Wrong fluid can damage the transmission.
- Transmission fluid capacity and bolt torque values vary by model and year. Use the factory service manual for exact numbers. If you do not have the manual, do not overtighten bolts — snug then small incremental turns to seat the gasket is safer than over-torquing.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Collect used fluid in a sealed container and take to a recycling center or authorized disposal facility. Do not pour down drains or onto ground.
- Wipe tools and pan clean to prevent contamination in future work.

- Final short safety reminder
- Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. If you find significant internal debris or any indication of serious damage, stop and seek professional transmission service.

Good luck — replace the filter and gasket, use the correct ATF, check for metal debris, and follow torque and fill procedures from the factory manual for best results.
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