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Nissan Skyline R32 engine factory workshop and repair manual download
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Nissan Skyline R32 engine factory workshop and repair manualon PDF can be viewed using free PDF reader like adobe , or foxit or nitro . File size 23 Mb PDF document . Covers the Nissan Skyline R32 (Engine only) with the following engines. CA18i, RB20E, RB20DE, RB20DET, RB25DE and RB26DETT engine Vacuum Diagrams About the Skyline R32
The Nissan Skyline is a line of compact sports, cars cars and compact administrator vehicles originally produced by the Prince Motor Company starting in 1955, and then by Nissan after the two companies merged in 1966. After the merger, the Skyline and its larger counterpart, the Nissan Gloria, were sold in Japan at dealership sales channels known as Nissan Prince Shop.The Skyline was largely engineered and designed by Shinichiro Sakurai from inception, and he stayed a chief influence of the car until his death in 2011.Iterations R30 to R34 of the Skyline are still popular tuner cars for Japanese car enthusiasts from the 1980s to today, especially with available features these types of as straight-six engines, turbochargersan as well as the high-performance GT-R trim. It is currently available in either coupÃÃ, or sedan body styles, and are most commonly known by their trademark round tail and brake lights (as of 1972); the station wagon bodystyle was fallen in 1989 with the introduction of the R32 platform. While not distributed in the United States until its importation as the Infiniti G, the Skyline's prominence in video games, movies and magazines lead in many such cars being imported here from 1999 to late 2005, after Motorex petitioned the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to allow 1990–1999 GTSs and GT-Rs to become imported, at the condition that they had been modified to meet United States Federal Motor Vehicle Safety guidelines. The 11th-generation Skyline (V35) had been another major turning point for the nameplate, as it dropped some of the Skyline's trademark characteristics such as the straight-6 engine and turbocharging, ultimately separated the GT-R into its own line, and moved to V6-engined era, this decision which extended to all later Skylines. Nissan decided to retain the Skyline for the luxury-sport market, while its platform-mate, the 350Z, revived the Z line of pure sports cars. The V35 was the first Skyline made for export to North America, being sold under Nissan's luxury marque Infiniti as the G35. The Skyline (V36/J50) is sold in North, European countries America, South Korea, Taiwan, and the Middle East as the Infiniti G37.The R32 Skyline debuted in May 1989. It was available as either a 2-door coupe or 4-door hardtop sedan, all other bodystyles were dropped. The R32 showcased several versions of the RB-series straight-6 engines, which had improved heads (the twelve port inlet was gone) and used the ECCS (Electronically Concentrated Control System) injection system. Also available was an 1,800 cc 4-cylinder GXi model. Many models had HICAS four-wheel steering, with the rear wheels being hydraulically linked to the front steering. The 2.5-litre GTS-25 became one of the first Japanese production automobiles to feature a 5-speed automatic transmission. The GTS-t arrived in standard and Type M configurations, with the Type M having larger five-stud 16-inch wheels, four piston front callipers and twin piston rears plus other minor differences. ABS was optional (except for the GT-R and GTS-4), mechanical LSD was standard on the GTR and viscous LSD was standard on all turbo designs and optional on all but the GXi. Nissan also produced 100 Australian models of the R32. In addition, there was a 4WD version of the GTS-t Type M, called the GTS-4. Versions: GTE Type-X – 2.0 L RB20E I6, 125 hp (93 kW, 152 N m) GTS Type-X, J, S – 2.0 L RB20DE I6 155 hp (115 kW, 154 N m) GTS-25 Type-X, S, XG – 2.5 L RB25DE I6, 180 hp (134 kW, 231 N m) Type-M, GTS-t – 2.0 L RB20DET turbo I6, 212 hp (158 kW, 265 N m) GTS-4 – 2.0 L RB20DET turbo I6, 212 hp (158 kW, 265 N m) 4WD Autech GTS-4 – 2.6 L RB26DE I6, 217 hp (162 Autech, kW Version – car only) 4WD GT-R – 2.6 L RB26DETT twin-turbo I6, 276 hp (280ps) (206 kW, 368 N m) 4WD; also V-Spec, N1, NISMO, and V-Spec II variants. The RB26DETT engine actually produced ~320 PS, but it was unstated because of the Japanese car makers' "gentlemen's agreement" not to exceed 280 PS (276 hp). The engine was designed for ~500 hp in racing trim, and then muzzled by the exhaust, increase restriction, and ECU. The electronic boost control had a small physical restriction in the control lines. It was marked in yellowish so the new owner could remove it and appreciate a safe factory boost increase. After this increase the car would place out ~310 hp (~230 kW) and could do 0–100 km/h in 4.7seconds and quarter mile in 12.8 seconds.The GT-R had a significantly larger intercooler, bigger brakes, and aluminium front guards and bonnet. Other distinguishing features include flared front and rear wheel arches. More supportive seats were fittedan as well as the turbo boost measure and digital clock were eliminated from inside the instrument cluster. The clock was replaced with a torque meter that indicated just how much torque was being delivered to the front wheels (0%–50%). Oil temp, voltage, and turbo increase gauges had been fitted just above the climate control.The Porsche 959 had been Nissan's target when designing the GT-R. The chief engineer, Naganori Ito, meant to use the car for Group A racing, so the design specification was drawn up in combination with a copy of the Group A rules. The Nordschleife production car record at the time of development was 8'45" – set by a Porsche 944. Nissan test driver Hiroyoshi Katoh reset the record with a time of 8'20". Best Motoring managed 8'22"38.The R32 GT-R dominated Japanese Touring Car Championship (JTCC), winning 29 races from 29 starts, taking the series title every year from 1989 to 1993. It took 50 races from 50 starts from 1991 to 1997 (latterly R33) in the N1 Super Taikyu. The R32 GT-R was introduced into the Australian Touring vehicle Championship in 1990 and promptly ended the reign of the previously all-conquering Ford Sierra Cosworth, winning Bathurst 1000 classic in 1991 and 1992. This success led to the Australian motoring press nicknaming the vehicle Godzilla due to it being a "monster from Japan". As Australia was the first export market for the car the name quickly spread. Such was GT-R's dominance that it was a significant factor in the demise of Group A Touring Car racing, the formula being scrapped soon after. JTCC had been likewise blighted by the R32 GT-R, and splintered soon after, leading to the switch to the Supertouring category and also indirectly to the GT500 category of today.Whenever originally designed, the homologation rulebook mandated 16-inch wheels, so that's what the GT-R got. This limited the size of the brakes, and the Nissan four pots weren't really up to competition use. A later modification in rules allowed 17-inch wheels, so in February 1993 the GT-R V-spec (for Victory) emerged wearing 17" BBS mesh wheels(225/50/17) covering larger Brembo brakes. The clutch actuation changed from a push to a pull system, the car had the standard rear differential, the electronic rear differential did not show up until the R33 Vspec. A year later the V-Spec II appeared with a new sticker and wider tires (245/45 17).The Nismo Skyline GT-R is a restricted (500 street, 60 racing) form of Nissan Skyline with Nissan RB engine with twin ceramic turbochargers ranked 280 PS (206 kW; 276 hp) at 6,800 rpm and 353 NÃÃm (260 lbÃÃft) at 4,400 rpm, all-wheel steering, electronically controlled four-wheel drive.It was reported the automobile was imported to the United States by Sean Morris under the 'Show or Display' rule, where NHTSA allow importing of nonconforming vehicles for purposes of show or display, if the car is of such historical or technological significance it is in the public interest to show or display the vehicle in the United States even though it would be difficult or impossible to bring the vehicle into compliance with the Federal motor vehicle safety standards. Engines:The CA engine is a 1.6 L to 2.0 L Inline-4 piston motor from Nissan created for a variety of smaller Nissan vehicles to replace the Z engine and some four-cylinder, smaller L series engines. It is an iron block, aluminum head design with a timing gear, hence was cheaper to make than the timing chain setup on the Z and L engines. Earlier versions featured SOHC and eight valves. The new CA block design was a scaled up E series block with timing shaft and other ancillaries removed. The oil pump is fitted directly onto the crank nose and the distributor is driven by the end of the camshaft. Like the E series and the A block from which the E had been derived, Nissan used a taller block for the largest stroked 2.0 litre engine. The CA was designed to be compact and light, with a CA16 requiring only 195 litres of room (compared to 280 litres for the earlier Z16), while weighing 23% less at 115 kg (254 lb). The engine was called the "CA" series for Clean Air, due to the set up of Nissan emission reducing technology, called NAPS-X.Later versions featured DOHC with 16 valves for increased efficiency at high engine speeds and a smoother power delivery. The hydraulic lifters are interchangeable between all DOHC RB and VG series engines excepting those with solid lifters.The motor was costly to produce being cast Production, iron ceased in 1991. The 1.8 L and 2.0 L versions had been changed by the SR series as the primary Nissan four-cylinder engine, while the smaller 1.6 L was replaced by the GA. Engines for the low amount European market 200SX had been provided from a stockpile. The CA18(i) is an obviously aspiration motor it delivers 91 hp (68 kW) at 5200 rpm. The fuel in this engine is not delivered via Multi Port Fuel Injection (E letter code on MPFI machines), it's instead delivered by Throttle Body Fuel Injection hence the (i) letter on the engine code. 83.0 x 83.6 mm bore and stroke, 1,809 cc (110.4 cu in). The RB engine is a 2.0–3.0 L straight-6 four-stroke petrol/gasoline engine from Nissan produced from 1985-2004. Both SOHC and DOHC versions have actually an aluminium head. The SOHC versions have 2 valves per cylinder and the DOHC versions have 4 valves per cylinder; all cam lobes move only one valve. All RB engines have belt-driven cams and a cast iron block. Most turbo models have an intercooled turbo (the exceptions being the single cam RB20ET & RB30ET engines), and most have a recirculating factory blow off valve (the exceptions being when fitted to Cefiros and Laurels) to reduce boost surge when the throttle is closed.The Nissan RB Engine is derived from the six cylinder Nissan L20A engine that has the same stroke and bore as the RB20. All RB engines were made in Yokohama, Japan where the new VR38DETT is now made. Some RB engines were rebuilt by Nissan's NISMO division at the Omori Factory in Tokyo as well. All Z-Tune Skylines were completely rebuilt at the Omori Factory. RB20E - single-cam (96 to 110 kW (130 to 145 ps) @ 5600 rpm, 167 to 181 NÃÃm (17 to 18,5 kgfÃÃm) @ 4400 rpm) RB20DE - twin-cam (110 to 114 kW (150 to 155 PS) @ 6400 rpm, 181 to 186 NÃÃm (18.5 to 19 kgfÃÃm) @ 5600 RB20DET - twin-cam turbocharged (158 kW (215 PS) @ 6400 264 NÃÃm (27.0 kgfÃÃm) @ 3200 rpm) Nissan R32 engine factory workshop and repair manual CA18i, RB20E, RB20DE, RB20DET, RB25DE and RB26DETT engine Download |
- Most R32 Skylines (GT-R, GTS, etc.) use a hydraulic clutch; some early or special trims may use a cable — you must identify which type before adjusting. Hydraulic clutches usually have an in-cabin pushrod/clevis adjustment or require bleeding/inspection; cable clutches have an external cable adjuster.
- The goal of clutch adjustment: set the correct pedal free play so the clutch fully engages and fully disengages. Correct free play prevents slipping, premature wear, poor shifting and thrown bearings.
Safety first
- Work on level ground, parking brake on, wheels chocked.
- Engine off for adjustments. If you test drive, do so carefully.
- Use eye protection and gloves. Hydraulic fluid (DOT3/DOT4) is corrosive to paint — protect surfaces and clean spills.
- If you must remove the transmission to access components (e.g., concentric slave failure, clutch replacement), use proper jack stands and engine/transmission support — do not rely on a jack alone.
Tools & supplies (typical)
- Metric wrench/set, pliers, screwdriver set, torque wrench
- Ruler or caliper to measure pedal free play (mm)
- Small inspection mirror/flashlight
- Brake fluid (DOT3 or DOT4 — use the spec in Nissan manual)
- Bleeder kit or clear hose and bottle, gloves, rags
- C-clamp (for clutch replacement), grease for splines, new cotter pins/locknuts if required
- Service manual for R32 torque specs and exact free play spec (typical free play range given below)
Basic theory — how the clutch system works (plain language + analogy)
- The clutch is the connection between the engine and the gearbox. Think of it as a sandwich: engine flywheel (bottom bread), clutch disc with friction material (filling), and the pressure plate (top bread). When the pressure plate clamps the disc to the flywheel, engine torque passes to the gearbox. When you push the pedal, a mechanism pulls the pressure plate away, freeing the disc so you can change gears.
- There are two common actuation systems:
- Cable: a steel cable pulls a fork or release lever to move the release bearing.
- Hydraulic: the pedal pushes a master cylinder piston, which pushes fluid through a line to a slave cylinder that moves the release mechanism (external fork/slave or concentric slave integrated into the input shaft bore).
- Free play is the small amount of pedal movement before the clutch starts to release. Imagine a light switch with a little dead travel before the switch engages: too little travel = the switch is always slightly on (wear/overheating), too much travel = you must push very far to turn it on (poor function).
- As the clutch disc wears, the release distance changes. The adjuster compensates for wear to keep engagement and disengagement at the intended pedal travel.
Identify your system on an R32
- Hydraulic: look at the firewall for a clutch master cylinder reservoir (on or near brake master cylinder). Follow the hydraulic line to a slave cylinder on the transmission bellhousing or see a concentric slave bearing inside the bellhousing (no external slave, but you may see fluid in bellhousing if leaking).
- Cable: follow a steel cable from the pedal area toward the engine/transmission; there will be an external clevis and adjuster, usually at the firewall or bracket.
What to measure/desired values
- Pedal free play (typical Nissan values): roughly 10–15 mm (check factory manual for exact R32 spec). This is the distance the pedal moves before you feel resistance/engagement of the release mechanism.
- Note: exact spec may vary by trim and actuation type. If you don’t have a manual, 10–15 mm is a safe target range.
Step-by-step: Hydraulic clutch adjustment & check (R32)
1. Safety/setup
- Engine off, key out, car in neutral, parking brake on, wheels chocked.
- Check clutch fluid reservoir level and top to correct level with specified fluid.
2. Check pedal free play
- Sit in the driver seat, measure the distance the pedal moves with your foot before you feel firm resistance (or use a ruler at the pedal pad). Record the free play (mm).
3. If free play is within spec (10–15 mm) and no complaints, no mechanical adjustment is needed. If out of spec, locate adjuster:
- Many R32 hydraulics are not automatically adjustable externally — adjustment is done via the pedal clevis/pushrod at the pedal box (inside the car, under dash) or by adjusting the slave cylinder pushrod if externally accessible. Some cars have a small locknut and clevis on the master cylinder pushrod.
4. Adjust the pushrod/clevis
- Locate the clevis where the pushrod attaches to the clutch pedal arm (inside cabin). There is usually a threaded pushrod with a locknut.
- Loosen the locknut. Turn the pushrod to change pedal free play:
- Screw the pushrod out (lengthen) to reduce free play (puts slave closer to release position).
- Screw in (shorten) to increase free play.
- Make small adjustments, tighten locknut, re-measure free play. Target 10–15 mm.
- After adjustment, start the car and verify clutch engagement point and shifting (engine running required for functional test). If the engagement point is too high/low, fine-tune.
5. If pedal remains soft/spongy or adjustment has no effect
- There may be air in the hydraulic system or a leak. Bleed the system:
- With engine off, keep reservoir capped and full enough.
- Locate slave cylinder bleed nipple on the transmission. Attach clear hose to the nipple and submerge into a bottle partially filled with fluid for backflow detection.
- Have an assistant press and hold the pedal, open bleeder (quarter-turn) until fluid flows and bubbles clear, close bleeder, then assistant releases pedal. Repeat until no air and pedal feels firm. Keep reservoir topped.
- Alternative: vacuum bleed with a hand vacuum pump (faster and cleaner).
- Inspect for leaks (wet lines, fluid in bellhousing). Fluid in bellhousing → concentric slave or line failure; external leaks → master or slave leaking.
6. Test drive and final checks
- Confirm smooth engagement, no slipping under load, and easy gear changes without grinding.
- Re-check for leaks or pedal travel changes after test drive.
Step-by-step: Cable clutch adjustment (if fitted)
1. Identify cable adjusters
- Typical adjuster at cable bracket near firewall or at cable-to-lever clevis near transmission. There’s usually a locknut.
2. Measure free play (10–15 mm)
- With engine off, measure pedal free play.
3. Adjust
- Loosen locknut. Turn adjuster to decrease or increase cable tension:
- Tighten cable (shorten effective cable) to reduce pedal free play.
- Loosen cable to increase free play.
- When done, tighten locknut and re-measure.
4. Test
- Start car, check clutch engagement point, gear shifting. Fine tune so shifting is smooth and engagement point is comfortable.
What can go wrong — failure modes, symptoms, and fixes
- Symptoms and probable causes:
- Spongy pedal / soft pedal: air in hydraulic lines (bleed); failing master cylinder (internal leak); contaminated fluid.
- Pedal slowly sinks to floor with pressure: internal master cylinder failure or hydraulic leak.
- Pedal hard to press / requires excessive force: misrouted or binding cable; collapsed slave or seized components; faulty pedal pivot; warped pressure plate with strong springs (rare).
- Clutch slipping (engine revs up but acceleration lagging under load): worn clutch disc, contaminated friction surface (oil on disc), weak pressure plate, flywheel glazing. Adjustment cannot fix a worn/clutch that slips under load — replacement required.
- Difficulty shifting or grinding into gear: too much free play (clutch not fully disengaging), worn synchronizers, or damaged clutch release/fork/pivot.
- Noise when pedal depressed: worn throwout (release) bearing or pivot.
- Fluid in bellhousing: leaking concentric slave cylinder (CSC) — gearbox removal required to replace CSC in many cases.
- Constantly having to re-adjust: underlying wear (clutch nearing end of life) or failed self-adjuster (if applicable).
When adjustment is not the fix
- If correct free play cannot be achieved, or if clutches slip/drag despite correct adjustment, clutch components likely need replacement: clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, possibly resurfacing or replacing the flywheel.
- If you find hydraulic fluid leaking from master or slave — replace the leaking component (master cylinder or slave); if the concentric slave is leaking, expect to remove the gearbox or use a specialist approach.
Component descriptions (every key part)
- Clutch pedal: lever inside car; moves the pushrod that actuates the clutch.
- Pedal pivot/bracket: bearing or bush where pedal rotates; worn pivots cause excessive play.
- Pushrod/clevis: adjustable threaded rod connecting pedal to master cylinder (or to slave/cable). Adjusts pedal free play.
- Master cylinder & reservoir: converts pedal push into hydraulic pressure; reservoir holds brake/clutch fluid.
- Hydraulic line: high-pressure rubber (or steel) line transferring fluid to slave cylinder.
- Slave cylinder (external): piston at transmission that moves the release fork; has a bleed nipple.
- Concentric slave cylinder (CSC): slave cylinder integrated around transmission input shaft and release bearing — if leaking, fluid enters bellhousing.
- Release/throwout bearing: contacts pressure plate diaphragm to release pressure plate. Can be separate or part of CSC.
- Release fork and pivot: lever that transfers motion from slave to release bearing (external systems).
- Clutch disc (friction disc): splined to input shaft; friction material engages flywheel when clamped.
- Pressure plate (with diaphragm spring or straps): clamps disc to flywheel when closed, releases when actuated.
- Flywheel: fixed to engine crank, mating surface for clutch disc; heavy; may be machined/resurfaced if worn.
- Pilot bearing/bushing: supports the transmission input shaft in the crankshaft.
- Bellhousing: enclosure between engine and transmission contains clutch assembly.
Useful analogies
- Clutch engagement = closing sandwich: flywheel + disc + pressure plate. Releasing the clutch is like pulling the top slice away.
- Free play = dead travel on a light switch: a little travel keeps parts at rest. Too little = always slightly on; too much = delays.
- Hydraulic system = closed water pipe with a plunger (master) and a receiving piston (slave). Air is like compressible sponge that ruins pressure — bleed to remove.
Quick troubleshooting checklist
- Check fluid level and condition (dark = replace/bleed).
- Measure pedal free play.
- Verify no external leaks and no fluid in bellhousing.
- Bleed system if pedal spongy.
- Adjust clevis/pushrod for proper free play.
- Inspect pedal pivot and linkage for play/wear.
- If slipping after adjustment, plan for clutch replacement and flywheel service.
When to replace instead of adjust
- If clutch slip under load, or engagement point moves drastically after a few uses, or there’s visible fluid leakage or noise from release bearing — replacement of clutch components (disc, pressure plate, release bearing, possibly slave/master) is usually required.
Final practical tips
- Always use correct brake/clutch fluid and keep the reservoir clean.
- Make small adjustments and re-test — don’t “jam” the adjuster.
- Keep the locking nut tight after adjusting so it doesn’t back out.
- If you need to drop the gearbox (CSC failure, clutch replacement), replace the clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, and resurface or replace flywheel at the same time — this is the proper overhaul.
- Keep a service manual handy for exact R32 torque specs and factory pedal free-play numbers.
That’s the full procedure, the parts explained, the theory, common failure modes, and practical steps to inspect, adjust, bleed or recognize when replacement is required.
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