What you’re doing: replacing the input-shaft bearing on a Nissan D22 family (Frontier / Navara / Terrano / Hardbody) manual gearbox. This is a moderately advanced job because the transmission must be removed and partly disassembled. I’ll explain what everything is, why bearings fail, how the system works, what can go wrong, and give a detailed step‑by‑step procedure aimed at a beginner mechanic. Read everything first, gather tools/parts and a factory service manual (you will need the torque specs, clearances and any model‑specific steps).

Safety first (don’t skip)
- Work on a flat level surface, use quality jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Support the engine if the transmission crossmember is removed (engine support bar or an engine jack).
- Drain gearbox oil into a catch pan and dispose/recycle properly.
- When using a press, pullers, heat (bearing fit), follow tool safety instructions.

Theory — why and how
- The input shaft transmits engine torque into the gearbox. It’s supported by bearings in the gearbox case (radial/roller or ball bearings) and sometimes by a pilot bearing/bushing in the flywheel or crankshaft. Think of the input shaft as the axle of a bicycle wheel and the bearing as the hub bearings that let it spin smoothly while being held in the frame.
- Bearings reduce friction and support radial (and sometimes axial) loads. When bearings wear, they create noise (growling/whining), vibration, play (shaft movement), and metal debris in the gearbox oil. Left unchecked, a failed bearing will score shafts and gears and can lead to catastrophic gearbox failure.
- Causes of failure: contamination (dirt/water), low or contaminated gearbox oil, bearing fatigue (normal wear), improper installation (wrong fit or pre-load), seal failure allowing oil loss, shock loads, or corrosion.

Key components and what each does (detailed)
- Engine crankshaft pilot / pilot bearing (sometimes a bushing): centers and supports the inner end of the input shaft at the crank/flywheel. If worn, causes wobble and noise.
- Clutch assembly:
- Clutch disc: friction plate that transmits torque from flywheel to input shaft splines.
- Pressure plate: clamps the disc to the flywheel.
- Throw‑out (release) bearing: presses the pressure plate fingers to release clutch.
- Release fork / pivot: actuates the throw‑out bearing.
- Flywheel: attaches to the crank, mating surface for clutch; also often houses the pilot bushing.
- Input shaft: the shaft that receives torque from the clutch and carries gear clusters (or meshes with lay/cluster shafts, depending on gearbox design). It has splines for the clutch disc and may have helical gears or dog teeth.
- Input shaft bearing(s): support the shaft where it exits the front of the gearbox case; may include a front radial bearing and a rear bearing that locates the shaft axially.
- Bearing retainer / bearing carrier / snap rings / spacers: hold bearings in exact positions, control axial play.
- Mainshaft / layshaft / countershaft (dependent on gearbox layout): gears mounted on them mesh with input shaft gears to produce different ratios.
- Synchros (synchronizers): cones and rings that synchronize gear speeds during shifts.
- Gearbox case halves: house gears/bearings; dowel pins align halves.
- Oil seals: located where the shaft exits the case (input shaft seal) and at other outputs; keep lubricant in and contaminants out.
- Gearbox oil: lubricates bearings and gears.
- Shift linkage / selector: connects shifter to gearbox; remove to separate transmission.
- Transmission crossmember & mounts: support the gearbox under the car.

Common symptoms that indicate the input bearing is bad
- Growling/whining noise that changes with engine speed or load. Often louder in neutral or when clutch engaged/disengaged.
- Vibration in drivetrain.
- Metallic particles or straight grit in gearbox oil.
- Excessive axial or radial play on the input shaft when you move it by hand (only check with gearbox out and safe to test).
- Oil leaks or oil contamination due to seal damage from wobbling shaft.

Before you start: parts and tools checklist
Parts (replace while you're in there)
- New input shaft bearing(s) (OEM or high-quality aftermarket like NSK/C&U).
- New input shaft oil seal(s).
- Pilot bearing/bushing (if applicable).
- All snap rings, circlips, spacers that are worn or bent.
- New gearbox gasket or RTV if case is split.
- New gearbox oil (correct grade & quantity).
- Optional: new clutch kit (disc/pressure plate/release bearing) if clutch age is unknown or you have to remove it anyway.

Tools
- Full metric hand tool set (sockets, wrenches, extensions).
- Torque wrench (measureable range that covers required torque).
- Transmission jack or good floor jack + wooden block.
- Engine support bar or an engine jack (if removing crossmember).
- Snap ring/circlip pliers.
- Bearing puller and bearing press (or hydraulic shop press). A slide hammer is sometimes used but a press is preferred.
- Seal driver set.
- Drift punches, soft‑faced hammer.
- Punch set and center punch.
- Pry bars.
- Penetrating oil, brake cleaner, rags.
- Dial indicator (for end play checks if required).
- Marker/paint for labeling, containers for small parts.
- Factory service manual or online manual for exact torques, order of disassembly and bearing identification.

Time & skill estimate
- For a first‑timer: 6–12 hours if you have a helper. Less if experienced. Removing, disassembling the gearbox, pressing bearings, reassembling, and reinstalling is the bulk of the time.

Detailed step‑by‑step procedure (generalized for D22 family manual gearbox)
Note: this is a generalized sequence. Always follow the factory service manual for your exact model, transmission code and torque values.

A. Prep and removal (vehicle)
1. Park level, chock rear wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal.
2. Lift vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove the front wheels for access if needed.
3. Drain transmission oil: remove drain plug and let oil drain.
4. Remove the driveshaft(s)/axles: for RWD/4x4 separate prop shaft(s) or half shafts; for 4x4 models you may need to remove transfer case or shift the transfer case to neutral and unbolt it depending on model.
5. Disconnect shift linkage, speedometer cable/electrical speed sensor, reverse light switch connectors.
6. Remove starter motor (easier to do with smaller space).
7. Disconnect clutch slave cylinder or release fork linkage; if hydraulic slave inside gearbox, unbolt slave and secure it (do not stretch rubber hoses).
8. Support transmission with a transmission jack. Remove transmission mount / crossmember.
9. Unbolt bellhousing from engine block (usually 6–8 bolts). Use an assistant to steady the gearbox while you separate. Slide gearbox straight back until the input shaft clears the clutch. If it’s tight, wiggle carefully — don’t force and don’t let the gearbox fall.
10. Lower and remove the gearbox from under the vehicle onto your bench or a transmission stand.

B. Remove clutch / inspect pilot
1. With the gearbox separated, remove the clutch pressure plate bolts while holding the pressure plate. Remove the clutch disc and pressure plate.
2. Inspect the flywheel surface and pilot bearing/bushing; remove and replace pilot bearing if worn (use puller or carefully drive out). Generally replace pilot bearing whenever input shaft removed.

C. Split gearbox and remove input shaft
1. Place the gearbox on a bench. Remove any outer covers and ancillary parts to access gearbox internals. Keep bolts organized and labeled for location.
2. Remove selector forks, synchros or other assemblies as instructed in manual. Mark gear positions and shims; take photos if helpful.
3. Carefully separate gearbox case halves. There are dowel pins; some gentle persuasion may be required with a rubber mallet. Keep one side supported to avoid losing parts inside.
4. With the case open, identify the input shaft and bearings. Note the bearing type(s) and retention (snap rings, pressed in).
5. Remove circlips/snap rings and any spacers/shims in order. Keep the order — this controls axial clearance.
6. Press out the input shaft assembly: use a bench press to push the shaft out of the case/bearing. If the bearing is pressed onto the shaft, press it off the shaft. If the bearing is pressed into the housing, press it out of the case.
7. Inspect the input shaft for scoring, wear on splines, gear faces. If the shaft is heavily worn or grooved, it must be replaced or refurbished.

D. Replace bearing
1. Clean the shaft and housing thoroughly with solvent and dry. Remove old seal material or gasket.
2. Check bearing fit. Typically bearing inner race is pressed onto shaft and outer race into case. Heat the housing slightly or freeze the bearing to ease fit if needed (heat housing ~80–100°C and/or freeze bearing); follow safety and avoid overheating with solvents or paint. Using a press, install the bearing squarely using a bearing driver that contacts only the ring you intend to move (apply force only to inner race when pressing onto shaft, or outer race when pressing into housing).
3. Install new snap rings, shims, spacers exactly in the same order as removed. Replace any worn or deformed retaining parts.

E. Reassembly and checks
1. Reassemble gear clusters and synchros in reverse order. Clean and lightly oil surfaces with gearbox oil. Use new gaskets or apply gasket maker as specified.
2. Reassemble case halves: align dowel pins and tighten bolts finger tight. Tighten bolts gradually in the pattern recommended in the manual to the specified torque.
3. Check end play / axial clearance on the input shaft with a dial indicator if specified. There is usually a specific axial free play limit — adjust shims if necessary.
4. Install new input shaft oil seal using a proper seal driver, ensuring the lip faces oil side.
5. Reinstall clutch components (replace clutch if worn). Use alignment tool to align clutch disc to pilot/bearing. Torque pressure plate bolts to spec.

F. Reinstallation into vehicle
1. Raise gearbox into position with a transmission jack. Ensure alignment dowels match. Gently slide the input shaft through the clutch disc splines and pilot bearing — if it doesn't seat easily, check for alignment or e.g. stuck alignment tool.
2. Reinstall bellhousing bolts, tighten to specified torque in the correct sequence.
3. Reconnect starter, shift linkage, speedo sensor, slave cylinder, driveshafts/axles, crossmember/transmission mount.
4. Refill gearbox with specified type and quantity of oil.
5. Reconnect battery, start engine and test clutch operation (engine off) by shifting through gears. With the vehicle still on stands, run the engine at idle and listen for noise. Road test carefully to verify noise gone and shifting smooth.

What can go wrong (common problems and how to avoid)
- Improper bearing installation: pressing on the wrong race damages the bearing. Always press on the race you want to move.
- Wrong parts or mixture of old/new shims: causes incorrect end‑play or axial preload leading to bearing failure or sloppy gear engagement. Keep parts ordered and mark their positions.
- Not replacing the pilot bearing or input seal: a worn pilot can destroy a new bearing; a leaky seal allows contamination. Replace seals and pilot as a matter of course.
- Contamination during assembly: dirt or metal particles reduce bearing life. Work cleanly and use clean rags and solvent.
- Overheating bearings during installation (if using heat) can damage internal lubrication.
- Not checking or setting axial end-play: too much play = noise/wear; too little = excessive preload, heat and early failure.
- Damaging splines when reinstalling gearbox: ensure alignment, use an alignment tool, do not force or hammer the gearbox into place.
- Reusing worn or scored shafts/cages: if shaft or gear journals are damaged, the new bearing will fail quickly. Replace shafts if needed.
- Incorrect torque on case bolts or clutch bolts: can cause leaks or premature wear. Use proper torque wrench and factory specs.

Diagnostics recap — before replacing the bearing
- Road test to verify symptom and whether it varies with engine speed vs vehicle speed (distinguishes input vs output shaft problems).
- Check for metal in gearbox drain plug magnet and oil.
- Remove the gearbox and check shaft play and bearing surfaces before committing to parts.

Tips, analogies & practical advice
- Analogy: the input shaft + bearing is like a skateboard axle mounted in the deck: the axle (shaft) spins under loads, the bearings are the wheel bearings. If the bearings go bad, the axle wobbles and makes noise; simply replacing the bearing, but leaving a bent axle or cracked wheel, will fail again.
- Take lots of photos as you disassemble: they’re worth dozens of pages in a manual for reassembly.
- Bag and label every bolt. Bolts often differ in length — using the wrong one can damage parts.
- If you’re uncertain about pressing bearings, many local shops will press parts for a small fee. A hydraulic press is preferred to hammering.
- Keep a pry bar and a block of wood handy when separating the gearbox halves — be gentle.
- Replace the clutch if it has many miles — once you have the gearbox out, clutch replacement is almost always cheaper than removing it again later.

Final notes
- This job requires careful attention to cleanliness, order of assembly, and torque/end‑play settings. The most common mistakes are incorrect bearing fit/installation and shims being mixed up.
- Use a factory service manual (Haynes/Chilton can help but factory manual gives exact spec) for your specific D22 transmission code — it contains the torque specs, end play limits and model-specific procedures you must follow.

If you follow these steps, replace related wear items (pilot bearing, seals, snap rings), and respect tolerances/torques from the manual, you will restore smooth operation and avoid further damage.
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