Tools & materials
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set, breaker bar, torque wrench, screwdrivers, pry bar, impact (optional).
- Jack and sturdy jackstands or a lift; wheel chocks.
- Flywheel holding tool / clutch alignment tool / transmission support.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for runout).
- Flywheel resurfacing equipment (choose one):
- Bench lathe with suitable adapter/faceplate and soft jaws (preferred), OR
- Dedicated flywheel grinder/resurfacer, OR
- On-car electric flywheel grinder (seen in-shop portable grinders with stone).
- Cutting tool for lathe: sharp carbide facing tool or HSS tool; dressing stone if using grinding wheel.
- Cutting fluid / light oil for lathe cuts.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or acetone.
- New flywheel bolts (OEM or grade-matched), threadlocker (red/blue per shop practice), pilot bearing/bushing (recommended), clutch kit (disc + pressure plate) if clutch disturbed.
- Torque specs & service manual for Toyota 2F (consult for exact values).
- Personal protective equipment: eye protection, gloves, hearing protection.

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat surface; use wheel chocks; always support vehicle with jackstands or use a lift. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect battery before transmission removal to avoid accidental starter engagement.
- Use appropriate eye and hearing protection when machining or grinding.
- Keep flammable liquids away from grinders/lathe sparks.
- Clamp flywheel securely when machining; a loose workpiece can kill or maim.
- If using an on-car grinder, follow tool manufacturer safety spacing; keep hands clear.

Step-by-step procedure

1. Preparation and removal
- Disconnect battery.
- Remove transmission: support transmission with jack, remove starter, clutch linkage/hoses, drive shaft, transmission-to-engine bolts in a proper sequence. Use a transmission jack or support.
- Support the flywheel/clutch assembly while unbolting the pressure plate. If removing the whole flywheel, remove pressure plate and clutch disc first.
- Mark relative orientation of flywheel to crank if you plan to reinstall in same orientation (usually not necessary, but useful if dowel pins used).
- Remove flywheel bolts in a star pattern, backing them out gradually to avoid warping.
- Use a flywheel holding tool or have an assistant hold while breaking bolts loose.

2. Initial inspection
- Clean flywheel face with solvent.
- Visually inspect for cracks, severe heat-spotting (blue/black), deep scoring, or missing material. If cracks or heavy heat checking present, replace flywheel — resurfacing is not safe.
- Measure thickness and compare to service manual minimum. If under minimum thickness, replace.
- Check for excessive runout on the mounting face with dial indicator; if runout is beyond spec and cannot be corrected by resurfacing, replace.

3. Decide machining method
- Off-engine bench lathe or dedicated resurfacer is preferred: gives best control and finish.
- On-car grinder: acceptable for small skims and emergency repairs but risks uneven removal and heat damage; only use if done carefully and not to remove significant metal.

4. Mounting flywheel for lathe surfacing (preferred)
- Clean crank bolt threads and bolt holes.
- Mount flywheel on a faceplate or adapter that fits the flywheel bolt pattern; use the same bolt pattern and torque to pull it concentric. Alternatively mount using an appropriate arbor or soft jaws.
- Ensure concentricity with dial indicator; adjust until runout <0.05 mm (0.002") if possible before cutting.
- Securely lock the flywheel and lathe tailstock support if available.

5. Lathe resurfacing technique (detailed)
- Set lathe RPM moderate (not too high) appropriate for flywheel size and cutter. Use a steady, smooth feed.
- Use a sharp carbide facing tool or HSS; set tool exactly on center height.
- Take very light finish cuts for flywheels: typical cut depth per pass 0.1–0.3 mm (0.004–0.012"); total removal should be as little as possible. Do not exceed manufacturer max allowable removal—if unsure, remove no more than about 0.5–1.0 mm total and consult manual.
- Use cutting fluid or light oil to reduce heat. Avoid burning the surface — excessive heat creates hardening and glazing that can cause slipping.
- Make multiple shallow passes until surface is smooth, flat, and all hot spots and scores are removed.
- Target a smooth, cross-hatched finish, not grooved or grooved too deep. Final surface should look uniform with concentric tool marks.
- After machining, de-burr edges lightly and clean thoroughly with solvent.

6. On-car grinder technique (if used)
- Mount grinder per manufacturer instructions, centered on flywheel.
- Dress the stone before starting.
- Use light, uniform passes; don’t apply excessive pressure — let the stone cut.
- Keep wheel moving; avoid dwell in one spot (creates hot spots).
- Stop frequently to check flatness and avoid overheating (surface should not discolor).
- Use very small amounts of material removal — this method is for minor skims only.

7. Post-machining checks
- Clean thoroughly with solvent; remove all metal particles.
- Check flatness and runout with dial indicator on machined surface; target minimal runout (less than ~0.05–0.1 mm; consult manual). Any excessive eccentricity requires rework or replacement.
- Inspect surface for heat checking or blue tempering — if present, replace flywheel.

8. Parts replacement and preparation for reinstallation
- Replace flywheel bolts with new bolts or ensure reused bolts meet allowance and are not stretched. Apply correct threadlocker per manual. Many OEMs call for new bolts—use new.
- Replace pilot bearing/bushing whenever flywheel or transmission removed.
- Replace clutch disc and pressure plate if showing wear, contamination, or if you removed them.
- Clean crank flange and mating surfaces; remove old threadlocker from holes by chasing threads if reusing bolts.

9. Reinstallation
- If using new bolts, install bolts with light threadlocker as recommended. Tighten in a star pattern in incremental stages to final torque. Consult Toyota 2F service manual for exact torque; if manual unavailable, use conservative typical flywheel bolt torque for similar engines (but always verify).
- Use clutch alignment tool when installing clutch disc/pressure plate to center the disc.
- Torque each bolt to spec in manufacturer-recommended sequence.
- Reinstall transmission, starter, and other components; torque all fasteners to spec.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Removing too much material: changes clutch geometry and can reduce crankshaft engagement depth; always check service manual limits and remove minimal material.
- Overheating the flywheel when grinding: causes hard spots and cracks; use light cuts, cool frequently, and watch for color changes. If blueing appears, replace flywheel.
- Not replacing or properly torquing flywheel bolts: flywheel bolts are critical; use new bolts or verify condition, apply correct threadlocker and torque. Loose bolts cause damage.
- Not checking runout: excessive runout causes clutch chatter; use dial indicator and correct before reinstallation.
- Contaminating the clutch with oil/grease: clean everything and don’t handle friction surfaces with greasy hands. Replace contaminated clutch components.
- Using an imprecise on-car grinder for large cuts: this can produce uneven removal and imbalance — prefer bench lathe for substantial resurfacing.
- Not balancing after significant material removal: if large amounts of metal are removed or flywheel has been welded, have it rebalanced.

When to replace rather than resurface
- Cracks or severe heat checking.
- Surface cross-section below minimum thickness spec.
- Severe scoring or missing material that would require excessive removal.
- Warpage or runout beyond correction.
- If resurfacing would bring the friction surface below spec for pressure plate/clutch geometry.

Final notes
- For Toyota 2F specifics (flywheel thickness limits, bolt torque, runout limit), follow the Toyota service manual — it contains exact figures for safe machining and reassembly.
- If you lack a lathe or experience, have the flywheel machined by a reputable machine shop — they have the proper adapters, balancing equipment, and experience to ensure a safe resurfacing.
rteeqp73

1977 Toyota 2F Engine Demonstration (08/08/18) Our 1977 Toyota 2F engine being fired and ran to demonstrate it's working order. Ran with no exhaust. For Sale on our eBay ...

'75 Toyota Landcruiser 2F Engine Crank Inspection Crankshaft journal inspection.

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