- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and sturdy shoes.
- Work on a flat level surface, in daylight or strong lighting.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use jack stands.
- If you will compress springs, use a proper spring compressor and follow its instructions exactly; if you’re a beginner, buy complete front strut assemblies instead (see parts section).

- What this guide covers
- Rear shock replacement (simpler, bolt-on).
- Front shock/strut replacement for a D22 (MacPherson front): recommended method is replacing complete assembled struts to avoid spring-compressor danger. I include notes about DIY cartridge replacement only so you know why it’s riskier.

- Tools list (each tool described and how to use it)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Description: low-profile pump jack with lifting saddle, rated for 2+ tonnes typical.
- How to use: position saddle under manufacturer jacking point (pinch weld or axle pad), pump handle to raise vehicle. Lift high enough to place jack stands, then slowly lower onto stands. Never crawl under the vehicle supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands (set of two or four)
- Description: adjustable steel stands with pawl or threaded lift and rated capacity (check rating).
- How to use: set height, place under solid chassis points, lower vehicle onto stands by slowly releasing the jack. Confirm vehicle is solidly supported and doesn’t rock before working.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: rubber or plastic wedges to block wheels.
- How to use: chock wheels on the opposite end of the vehicle (front chocks if working rear, rear chocks if working front) to prevent rolling.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with appropriate socket
- Description: long-handled bar for extra leverage or the vehicle lug wrench.
- How to use: loosen wheel nuts slightly while car is on the ground (break them free), then remove completely after car is raised.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (metric set)
- Description: sockets (10–24 mm range) and ratchet; deep sockets recommended.
- How to use: select correct socket for bolt/nut, use extension and swivel if needed. Tighten/loosen by turning ratchet; use breaker bar for very tight bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Description: calibrated wrench for applying specified torque (Nm or ft-lb).
- How to use: set required torque, tighten bolt until wrench clicks. Always use torque wrench on suspension fasteners to manufacturer specs.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Description: fluid to loosen rusty or seized bolts.
- How to use: spray onto nuts/bolts and let soak 10–30 minutes. Repeat as needed before loosening.
- Impact wrench (optional, pneumatic or cordless)
- Description: power tool to remove stubborn bolts quickly.
- How to use: attach correct socket, hold firmly, pull trigger in short bursts. Useful but not required; if you lack one, use breaker bar and penetrating oil.
- Hammer and punch or drift
- Description: hand hammer and metal punch to free stuck bolts.
- How to use: strike the head of a stuck bolt or use punch to tap bolt out while supporting the component. Be careful not to damage threads.
- Pry bar
- Description: stiff bar for levering components apart.
- How to use: position to gently separate lower mount from control arm or to lever out an old bushing; avoid excessive force that can bend parts.
- Ball joint separator or pickle fork (for front strut removal when separating lower ball joint)
- Description: tool for separating ball joint/tie rod end from steering knuckle.
- How to use: place between joint and knuckle and strike/pull per tool instructions. Some setups permit unbolting lower strut bolts without separating ball joint—see steps.
- Coil spring compressor (only if disassembling strut and reusing spring)
- Description: two-arm or threaded compressor that clamps and compresses the coil spring.
- How to use: attach evenly at four points to spring, compress slowly and evenly, secure before removing strut top nut. Extreme caution required — springs store deadly energy; if unsure, do not use—buy assembled strut.
- Wire brush and rag
- Description: wire brush to clean threads and contacts; rag for wiping grease.
- How to use: clean threads so new nuts torque properly and so parts seat flush.
- Anti-seize compound and/or threadlocker (medium strength)
- Description: anti-seize prevents bolts from corroding; threadlocker secures bolts.
- How to use: apply a light film of anti-seize to bolts where needed; apply blue threadlocker to bolts that should not vibrate loose unless manufacturer specifies otherwise.
- Replacement hardware (new nuts/bolts)
- Description: OEM or supplied replacement bolts/nuts; suspension bolts can stretch or corrode—replace if specified.
- How to use: fit new hardware as original, torque to spec.

- Parts you may need (and why)
- New shocks (rear) and new complete front strut assemblies (recommended)
- Why: worn shocks/struts cause poor ride, reduced control, increased braking distances. For safety and beginner ease, buy complete front strut assemblies (spring, mount, bearing, dust boot, bump stop pre-installed). Rear shocks are usually simple replacements.
- Dust boots and bump stops (if not included)
- Why: protect piston rod from dirt and prevent bottoming-out; replace if cracked or missing.
- Upper strut mount / bearing (if not included with assembly)
- Why: noisy steering and poor suspension behavior indicate mount/bearing wear.
- New mounting bolts/nuts (if corroded or torque-to-yield)
- Why: some bolts are single-use or corroded; replacement ensures reliable clamping and correct torque.
- Anti-seize or threadlocker
- Why: protects threads from corrosion and prevents bolts from backing out.
- Sway bar end-link / bushings (optional)
- Why: if these are worn they may transmit noise and should be replaced while you have the strut out.
- Wheel alignment
- Why: replacement of front suspension requires wheel alignment afterwards; new toe/camber settings prevent uneven tire wear and steering pull. Take the vehicle to an alignment shop after installation.

- Signs that replacement is required
- Leaking hydraulic fluid on shock body or piston rod.
- Excessive bouncing after pushing down on corner of vehicle.
- Uneven tire wear, nose dive under braking, poor steering stability.
- Visible damage, corroded or broken mounts, cracked dust boots.

- Preparation steps (what to do before starting)
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock opposite wheels.
- Slightly loosen wheel nuts while vehicle on ground.
- Jack vehicle and place securely on jack stands at recommended jacking points.
- Remove wheel and lay out hardware in order for reassembly.

- Rear shock removal and installation (typical D22 rear diff/leaf or coil mount)
- Before starting: support axle with a jack so it won’t drop when lower shock is removed.
- Remove lower mounting bolt or nut(s) — use penetrating oil first if rusty; use breaker bar for leverage. If bolt spins, hold the nut side with a spanner.
- Remove top mounting nut(s) inside wheel arch or under bed; remove shock assembly.
- Compare new shock orientation and mounts to old one; ensure mounting eyes line up.
- Install new shock: fit upper mount first, loosely thread top nuts, fit lower bolt, then tighten to manufacturer torque spec with torque wrench.
- Lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts in star pattern.

- Front strut replacement (recommended: replace with complete assembled strut)
- Why assembled strut: avoids using a spring compressor. Assembled units come ready to bolt in.
- Access top strut nuts in engine bay or under plastic cover at strut tower; loosen but don’t remove yet.
- Remove sway bar link and brake hose/ABS sensor brackets from strut (unbolt; keep hardware).
- Loosen and remove lower bolts that secure strut to steering knuckle (one or two bolts). Support the knuckle/control arm so it won’t drop.
- Remove the top strut nuts fully, then remove strut assembly downward.
- Fit new assembled strut up into tower, hand-thread top nuts, align lower mount, insert lower bolts, finger-tighten, reattach brake hose and sway bar link.
- With wheel off ground and suspension at normal droop (jack under lower control arm), torque lower and top fasteners to spec with torque wrench.
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts to spec in a star pattern.
- Important: get a professional wheel alignment immediately after replacing front struts.

- If you insist on replacing only the cartridge (not recommended for beginners)
- Use a high-quality coil spring compressor rated for your spring; inspect it before use.
- Compress spring evenly a little at a time, alternating sides, until spring is loose in the strut.
- Remove top nut and safely transfer spring to new cartridge, decompressing slowly and evenly.
- Danger: misuse of compressor can release spring violently. If uncertain, stop and buy assembled strut.

- Torque guidance and notes
- Always use a torque wrench on suspension fasteners. Factory specs vary by year/trim — consult the service manual for exact Nm values.
- Typical suspension bolt torque ranges (approximate; verify):
- Strut top nuts: 40–80 Nm (check manual)
- Lower strut-to-knuckle bolts: 100–200 Nm (check manual)
- Rear shock bolts: 60–140 Nm (check manual)
- If you cannot find the exact spec, tighten to a firm, seated feel and get the correct torque values before driving hard.

- Final checks and post-install
- Ensure all nuts/bolts are torqued to spec.
- Check brake lines and ABS wires are not kinked or pinched.
- Bounce each corner to ensure damping is correct.
- Re-torque wheel nuts to spec after lowering vehicle.
- Drive gently for first 10–20 km, then re-check all fasteners; re-torque if necessary.
- Have an alignment performed immediately after front service.

- Disposal and recycling
- Old shocks contain oil — dispose at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts automotive fluids and parts.

- Quick troubleshooting
- If new shock leaks on arrival, replace it under warranty before installation.
- If you can’t remove a bolt: apply penetrating oil, heat the nut (carefully), use breaker bar or impact. If bolt head rounds, cut and replace bolt.

- Summary of why extra tools might be required
- Spring compressor: required only if you plan to disassemble an existing strut and reuse the spring; very dangerous without experience.
- Impact wrench: useful for seized bolts but not required.
- Ball joint separator/pickle fork: sometimes needed to separate lower joint if the knuckle won’t move enough to free the strut.
- Torque wrench: essential for correct reassembly — do not skip.

- Parts to buy for a beginner-friendly job
- Rear: pair of replacement shocks (left and right).
- Front: pair of complete assembled strut cartridges (left and right) that include mount, bearing, dust boot, bump stop.
- New mounting hardware if not included.
- Optional: anti-seize, threadlocker, new sway links if worn, new dust boots/bump stops if separate.

- Final note
- If any step looks too difficult (rusted bolts, need to compress springs, inability to torque properly), stop and consult a mechanic. Safer to have a shop do the job than risk a failed suspension fastener or improperly assembled strut.

(End of guide)
rteeqp73

For Nissan Navara D22 Frontier X-Terra 402601s700 Automatic Free Wheel Locking Hub 28 Splines

Budget eBay OCAM Snorkel - ZD30 D22 Navara Decided to start 2021 with a snorkel video. This is by far the more budget friendly option but will still get the job done. Link for ...

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