Tools & PPE
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots.
- Basic hand tools: 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 22 mm (and 1/2" equivalents) sockets & wrenches, extensions, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (capable to ~200 Nm).
- Impact wrench (optional; use carefully).
- Spring compressor (one that clamps on coil springs or the OEM-style two-clamp compressor). Must be rated for coil springs and in good condition.
- Strut nut holding tool (hex in strut rod or pin tool) or suitable 6‑point socket to hold strut piston rod.
- Ball joint / tie-rod separator or pickle fork.
- Pry bar, hammer, punch.
- Jack, axle stands, wheel chocks.
- Penetrant (PB Blaster), wire brush.
- Replacement parts: strut top mount (bearing if applicable), new top nut (recommended), dust boot and bump stop (recommended), any corroded bolts replaced.
- Grease/anti-seize (for bolts where appropriate).

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack — always use axle stands on level ground.
- Use a rated spring compressor. If the spring compressor slips or is damaged the coil can release violently — causing severe injury or death.
- Compress springs only a little more than necessary to unseat the top nut; compress evenly and alternate sides.
- Keep hands/face out of the arc of a compressed spring.
- If a compressor binds/catches or looks unsafe, stop and get a proper tool/shop.

Step-by-step procedure (front strut mount replacement — D22 family)
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Loosen (but do not remove) front wheel lug nuts.

2. Lift vehicle & remove wheel
- Raise front with jack and secure on axle stands under the frame.
- Remove the front wheel.

3. Access & detach strut from hub/knuckle
- Spray penetrant on lower strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link, and top nuts.
- Remove brake hose bracket and ABS sensor wire from strut (unbolt bracket; do not kink hose).
- Disconnect sway bar end link from strut if attached.
- Separate the lower ball joint/tie rod end if necessary to gain clearance. Use a separator, then support the hub/knuckle with a jack so it doesn’t drop when the strut is removed.
- Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts (usually two large bolts). Support the hub assembly so it can’t fall once bolts are removed.

4. Remove the strut assembly
- Under the hood, locate the three strut tower nuts holding the strut top to the shock tower. Loosen but do not yet remove them while supporting the strut from below (or remove after supporting).
- Carefully withdraw the strut assembly from the vehicle.

5. Secure and compress the spring
- Clean the strut so the compressor seats properly. Install the spring compressor on opposite coils and tighten slowly, alternating sides equally until the spring pressure is relieved from the top mount.
- Verify the spring is loose on the top and the top nut can be removed by hand holding the piston rod.

6. Disassemble the strut
- Use an appropriate socket/holding tool to prevent the piston rod from spinning. Remove the top nut.
- Remove the strut mount, bearing, dust boot, bump stop and spring.
- Inspect components: if bearings are rough or rubber mount is cracked, replace mount/bearing. Replace dust boot and bump stop if torn or degraded.

7. Install new mount & reassemble
- Install new bump stop and dust boot, position the spring, fit new mount and bearing (ensure correct orientation of bearing — many are directional and must face the correct way toward the top).
- Tighten the top nut to the specified torque while ensuring spring remains seated in the perch. Then slowly and evenly release the spring compressor until the spring is fully seated.
- Replace the top nut with a new one if recommended. Tighten to factory torque (see torque note below).

8. Reinstall strut assembly
- Raise the strut assembly into the strut tower. Start the three top nuts by hand to hold it in place but do not fully torque until lower bolts are tightened (allows alignment of components under load).
- Reattach the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts (insert through hub and strut), hand-thread nuts and torque to spec.
- Reconnect ball joint/tie rod end if separated; reconnect sway link and brake hose bracket/ABS wiring.
- Torque the top strut tower nuts to spec once the vehicle is back on its wheels (preferred) or after lower bolts are torqued (see pitfall notes).

9. Final steps
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle to ground.
- Torque wheel lug nuts to spec.
- Torque strut top nuts to factory spec (recommended to do this on the ground with suspension settled).
- Double-check all hardware and routing for brake lines/ABS wires.

10. Alignment
- Have a professional wheel alignment performed after replacing struts or any suspension components.

How tools are used (critical points)
- Spring compressor: clamp on opposing coils, tighten equally on both sides, compress until the spring can be removed from the top perch with no spring preload on the top nut. Do not compress beyond safe limits and always check that both clamps are secure and parallel.
- Torque wrench: use for all final torque values; an impact should not be used for final torqueing of structural bolts.
- Holding tool/hex in strut rod: prevents the piston from spinning while removing the top nut. If the strut rod has a hex flat or internal hex, use the correct tool to avoid rounding.

Common pitfalls & warnings
- Using an improper or cheap spring compressor — spring slip is a common cause of injury. Use a quality tool.
- Removing the top nuts while the spring is still under load — will release the spring violently.
- Reusing old strut mounts/bearings — bearings often wear and should be replaced with the mount kit.
- Over-tightening or under-tightening critical bolts — always use a torque wrench. Tightening top nuts with the wheel off and suspension drooped can preload bearings incorrectly; best practice is to torque top nuts with vehicle on ground (check manual).
- Corroded lower bolts/studs — they can snap or be impossible to remove; apply penetrant and heat if needed; be prepared with replacement bolts.
- Forgetting ABS sensor wires/hoses: ensure they’re free and not pinched before final tightening.
- Doing only one side — replace mounts in pairs to preserve balanced ride and handling.

Replacement parts recommended
- Strut mount assembly (mount + bearing).
- Top nut (use new if required by mfr).
- Dust boot & bump stop.
- Consider new lower mounting bolts if corroded.
- If strut is leaking or has poor damping, replace the entire strut.

Torque guidance (approximate — confirm with factory manual)
- Strut top nuts: ~30–60 Nm (approx).
- Lower strut-to-knuckle bolts: ~100–150 Nm (approx).
- Sway bar end link nut: ~40–70 Nm (approx).
- Wheel lug nuts: ~100–140 Nm.

Post-replacement checks
- Check for unusual noises at low speed and full lock turns.
- Inspect for brake hose/ABS sensor clearance.
- Drive carefully to alignment shop promptly.

If you don’t have a safe spring compressor or experience with suspension compression, have a professional shop do the disassembly/reassembly.
rteeqp73

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