Tools & supplies
- Replacement PCV valve correct for Nissan D21 (1995–1997 model years vary by engine — buy OEM or exact-fit aftermarket). Also have new vacuum hose and small hose clamp(s) if originals are brittle.
- Needle-nose pliers, flat screwdriver or small hose-clip pliers
- Socket set (8–12 mm) and ratchet (for removing air cleaner / intake components)
- Pick or small pry tool (for O‑ring/hose removal)
- Shop rags, gloves, safety glasses
- Vacuum hand pump or small hand-held vacuum tester (optional, for testing)
- Penetrant spray (optional, for stuck fittings)
- Engine oil (small amount to lubricate O‑ring)
- Waste container / paper towels for oil residue

Safety first
- Work on a cold or cool engine to avoid burns. If the engine was just run, let it cool 30+ minutes.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake. Remove ignition key.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep rags away from moving parts if you run the engine for testing.
- If you must remove the air cleaner and work near electrical connectors, disconnect negative battery terminal for safety (optional but recommended).

Step-by-step procedure
1. Locate the PCV valve
- On the D21 Navara the PCV valve is mounted in the valve cover or on a short rubber elbow between the valve cover and intake/airbox. Trace the rubber vacuum hose from the intake manifold/air filter area to the valve cover to find it.

2. Clear working area
- Remove the engine cover or air cleaner housing if it blocks access: undo hose clamp(s) and small bolts (usually 8–10 mm). Move the airbox out of the way without stressing attached lines/sensors.

3. Inspect before removal
- Visually check the valve and hose for cracks, oil-soak, or hardening. If the rubber hose is brittle or cracked, plan to replace it with a new length or OEM part.

4. Remove the PCV valve
- Grip the PCV valve body with pliers or by hand and pull straight out of the valve cover fitting or rubber grommet. If it’s stuck, use a small amount of penetrating spray around the base and pry gently with a pick. For hose-mounted types, loosen the clamp with a screwdriver or pliers, then pull the hose off the valve.
- If the valve is held by a grommet, remove it carefully — do not gouge the valve cover or enlarge the hole.

5. Inspect and test the old valve
- Shake it: a good PCV valve contains a loose poppet that rattles when shaken. If it’s silent, clogged, or spongy, replace it.
- Blow through (from vacuum side to crankcase side) — air should flow one way; if it’s fully open or totally blocked it’s bad.
- Optional: apply handheld vacuum (5–20 inHg) and ensure the valve holds vacuum and opens consistently.

6. Inspect mating surfaces and hoses
- Check the valve cover grommet and vacuum hose. Replace any brittle/soft/cracked hose. Clean oil sludge from grommet hole and surrounding area.

7. Install new PCV valve
- Lightly oil the O‑ring/grommet seat of the new valve (a drop of engine oil) so it slides in.
- Push the valve straight into the valve cover grommet until fully seated. If the valve uses a hose, push hose over the valve nipple and secure with a new clamp (don’t overtighten — clamp just enough to seal).
- Reinstall airbox/intake parts removed earlier. Tighten screws/clamps to snug (hand tight + quarter turn; ~3–6 Nm typical for small fasteners).

8. Final checks
- Reconnect battery negative if you disconnected it.
- Start engine, listen and feel for vacuum leaks (hissing). Check for smoking or abnormal oil leaks around the valve.
- If available, use vacuum gauge to confirm normal manifold vacuum and ensure the valve allows vacuum at idle.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Breaking brittle plastic valve cover or grommet: pry gently, use penetrating spray, replace grommet if damaged.
- Reusing old/hardened hose or clamp: always replace the hose and use a new clamp if original is brittle.
- Installing valve backwards: the valve is directional — make sure the side with the poppet faces the crankcase/valve cover and the vacuum nipple faces the intake.
- Not seating valve fully: push straight in until the valve bottoms out — an unseated valve causes vacuum leaks and oil blow-by.
- Over-tightening clamps or screws: strips threads or cracks plastic — snug only.
- Ignoring adjacent hoses: replace any cracked or collapsed vacuum lines feeding the system to prevent future failure.
- Leaving oil sludge: heavy sludge indicates PCV system/carbons issue — consider cleaning the valve cover breather passages and inspect PCV system maintenance if excessive oil is present.

When to replace parts
- Replace the PCV valve if it doesn’t rattle, is sticky, allows free flow both ways, or is visibly clogged.
- Replace the small rubber vacuum hose and O‑ring/grommet if cracked, hardened, or oil-soaked.
- If the valve cover grommet is damaged, replace the grommet or valve cover gasket as needed.

Estimated time
- 15–45 minutes depending on access and whether you must remove the airbox or other intake components.

That’s it — remove old PCV, test/inspect, install the correct new valve and new hose/grommet as needed, check for vacuum leaks and proper seating.
rteeqp73

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