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Nissan Skyline R32 engine factory workshop and repair manual download

What a connecting rod is, why it matters (theory)
- Function: connecting rods (conrods) link each piston to the crankshaft. They turn the piston’s straight-line reciprocating motion into crank rotation that ultimately turns the transmission and wheels.
- Analogy: imagine a child on a swing (piston) attached by a short rod to a spinning hub (crank). The rod controls the transfer of push/pull forces; if the rod or its joint is loose or broken the swing won’t work and will damage the hub.
- Why repairs are needed: bearings wear, bolts loosen or stretch, rods bend or fracture, or oil starvation causes bearing failure. Symptoms: loud rod knock (especially under load), low oil pressure, metallic particles in oil, loss of power, catastrophic seizure or thrown rod (engine destruction).

All components you’ll deal with (detailed)
- Connecting rod body: the main structural member. Common shapes: I-beam, H-beam or box. Material is forged steel or billet for performance; factory RB-series rods are forged steel.
- Big end (big journal end): the circular end that clamps around the crankshaft journal. Split into rod and rod cap.
- Rod cap: bolted to the rod body to enclose the crank journal. Caps are matched to rods and must be reinstalled in their original pair and orientation.
- Small end (small journal end): the end that houses the piston pin (also called wrist pin or gudgeon pin).
- Piston pin (wrist pin): steel pin passing through the piston and the rod’s small end, allowing pivoting.
- Circlips / snap rings: retainers at each piston end that keep the wrist pin from sliding out.
- Rod bearings (bearing shells): replaceable half-shells (upper and lower) that fit the big end and provide a sacrificial, oil-film bearing surface. Typically have an oil groove and a locating tang.
- Bearing tangs and oil holes: tangs locate the shells; oil holes or grooves align to feed oil to the bearing surface.
- Rod bolts or studs + nuts: fasteners that clamp rod cap to rod. Some engines use stretch-type bolts (replace each time), others use reusable bolts—check spec.
- Crush washers / thrust surfaces: normally not used on small-end in RB engines; main thrust control is elsewhere.
- Crankshaft journal (interacts with rod): the rotating surface that the rod bearing rides on.
- Oil gallery passages affecting rod lubrication: oil galleries feed pressurized oil through the block into the crank and rod bearings.
- Pistons and rings: you’ll often inspect these when pulling rods for signs of damage or scoring.
- Gaskets & seals: oil pan gasket, rear main seal — you’ll replace these when reassembling.

Tools and supplies you need (minimum)
- Metric hand tools (ratchets, sockets, extensions), breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (calibrated) and angle gauge if required by fastener spec.
- Engine hoist or support if engine removal is needed.
- Engine stand if you remove the engine.
- Plastigage (bearing clearance check) or micrometer and bore gauge for precise measurements.
- Dial indicator for runout/ journal measurement, or micrometer for journal diameter.
- Feeler gauges, calipers.
- Soft hammer, piston ring compressor (if reinstalling pistons).
- Clean lint-free rags, solvent, assembly lube (engine assembly grease), engine oil.
- New rod bearings, new rod bolts if specified, new gaskets, new oil, oil filter.
- Clean workspace, containers to keep rod/piston pairs together, marking pen.

High‑level procedure (what you’ll actually do)
Note: this is a practical but general guide. Torque values, clearances and specific fastener types vary between RB20, RB25 and RB26 variants of R32 Skylines — always consult the factory service manual (FSM) for your engine’s specs. Replacing or rebuilding connecting rods is a moderate-to-advanced job: if you’re a beginner, consider removing the engine and working on a bench or seeking an experienced mentor.

1) Preparation and diagnosis
- Symptoms that make you proceed: persistent rod knock, metal in oil, severe low oil pressure, catastrophic failure.
- Drain oil and coolant; disconnect battery and ancillary components.
- Decide whether to remove the engine: partial procedures exist (oil pan removal and crank inspection) but for replacing rods or bearings properly you usually remove the engine or at least drop the oil pan and remove the pistons from the top (requires head removal) to protect piston rings and avoid damage.

2) Disassembly to access rods
- Remove intake/exhaust manifolds, accessories, fuel system parts as needed.
- Remove cylinder head(s) to pull pistons downwards, or remove oil pan and access rods from below if head is staying on (head-off gives best access).
- Mark every rod and piston: number them (cylinder 1–6) and mark orientation (front of engine) so each piston/rod returns to its original cylinder and orientation.
- Remove the oil pump screen and any obstructing components. Remove oil pan.
- Rotate crank to bring the rod you’re working on to a convenient position (piston near top).
- Unbolt rod cap: keep cap with its rod, keep bearing shells together (upper goes in rod, lower goes in cap) and note any markings.

3) Removing pistons/rods
- With rod cap removed the piston will be free to slide down (or out of the top if head removed). If removing from top, compress rings with a ring compressor to ease out without scratching bore.
- Carefully remove piston with rod attached. Protect bore surface.

4) Inspection (critical)
- Visual inspection of rod bearings: look for scoring, smearing (copper color), discoloration (overheating), flaking, or deep grooves. Light polish is normal; heavy damage means replacement and further investigation.
- Check rod for straightness: roll it on a flat surface or use a dial indicator to measure twist/bend.
- Inspect rod bolts: look for stretch, head rounding, or marks indicating they are torque-to-yield (these must be replaced).
- Inspect journals on crankshaft: check for scoring, discoloration, diameter out-of-round with micrometer/dial bore gauge. Replace or regrind crank if out of spec.
- Inspect wrist pin and small end for wear and fit.
- Check pistons and cylinder bores for skirt scuffing or ring land damage.
- Magnetic particle inspection (if available) for hairline cracks in rods on high-performance rebuilds.

5) Measuring clearances
- Clean journals and bearing shells. Use Plastigage or micrometer measurement method to measure journal diameter and existing bearing thickness to calculate oil clearance. Typical engine rod bearing clearance commonly runs ~0.02–0.08 mm (0.0008–0.003 in) depending on engine — check FSM.
- Measure bearing shell thickness (if old shells used for measurement) and check crank journal diameter; calculate clearance.
- Check small-end wrist pin clearance relative to rod small end.
- Check rod big-end bore for roundness and sizing.

6) Selecting replacement parts
- Replace bearings if any damage or if out-of-spec clearances.
- Replace rod bolts if required (stretch bolts or if any sign of damage). Many mechanics replace rod bolts as preventive service.
- If crank journals are scored beyond spec, crankshaft machining (polish/undersize grind) and matching undersize bearings are required.
- Consider balancing rods/pistons if you’re doing a full rebuild or performance build.

7) Reassembly (key points)
- Clean everything thoroughly. No grit allowed where bearings ride.
- Fit new bearing shells into rod and cap, making sure tangs and oil grooves align with oil holes.
- If using Plastigage for final clearance check: place a strip on the journal, fit cap, torque bolts to spec, remove cap and measure flattened Plastigage against its scale. Clearances must be within spec. Replace bearing if out of tolerance.
- Apply assembly lube to bearing surfaces during final assembly.
- Always torque rod bolts in the correct sequence and angle (if required) using a calibrated torque wrench. Replace bolts if spec requires. Tighten progressively to avoid misalignment.
- Reinstall pistons and rings into bores (top-dead-center orientation), using ring compressor and care not to cut rings on the chamfers. Ensure piston and rod orientation match markings.
- Ensure correct bearing oil hole alignment; do not install with grooves opposite oil hole.
- Rotate crank by hand after each rod is installed to ensure smooth free rotation and no binding.
- Replace oil pan gasket, rear main seal if removed, and any gaskets. Refit oil pump if removed and prime oiling system before startup (pre-oil by spinning oil pump with drill or cranking with fuel/ignition disabled until pressure builds).
- Reinstall head, manifolds, ancillaries with correct torque sequences and specs if head was removed.

What commonly goes wrong (and why)
- Bearing wear/failure: caused by oil starvation (clogged pickup), contaminated oil, improper clearance, or debris. Results in rod knock, metal in oil, bearing seizure.
- Rod bolt failure: reused stretch bolts or under-torqued bolts can loosen or break, allowing cap to separate and throw a rod — catastrophic.
- Bent rod: often from hydrolock, severe detonation, or physical shock; leads to piston rubbing, scoring, and failure.
- Scored/cracked crank journals: from bearing failure; may require grinding and undersize bearings or crank replacement.
- Improper reassembly errors: wrong bearing orientation, wrong bolts reused, wrong torque, missed oil passages — all can kill an engine quickly.
- Thrown rod: cap or bolt failure lets cap separate under pressure and a rod pierces the block — engine is usually scrap.
- Improper piston/rod orientation: causes uneven wear and possible interference with the block or head.

Troubleshooting signs and targeted fixes
- Knocking worse on startup -> likely bearing clearance or oil pressure issue. Check oil pressure first; if pressure normal then inspect bearings.
- Noise only under load -> possible bearing fatigue or rod bolt stretching.
- Metallic grit in oil filter -> inspect bearings, crank, and rods immediately.
- Low oil pressure + noise -> check oil pump pickup screen and pump condition before tearing down.

Safety and best practices
- Label and number everything: each rod must return to its original cylinder and same orientation.
- Use new rod bolts when specified. Don’t gamble on old fasteners.
- Have FSM specs for torque, bolt stretch, bearing clearances, and journal sizes. Don’t guess.
- Work in a clean environment; contamination kills bearings fast.
- Prime the oiling system before first start after reassembly.
- After rebuild, don’t redline engine immediately—run through break-in procedure (specific for bearing types and parts used).

Final notes (brief)
- Replacing or rebuilding connecting rods is as much about accurate measurement and cleanliness as it is about mechanical skill. If you’re unsure about journal sizes, clearances, or proper bolt type, stop and get the correct spec or a machine shop check. A single mistake can turn a rebuild into an engine replacement.

No Yapping — concise wrap: rods convert piston motion to crank rotation; they fail from oil or fastener problems or mechanical shock; inspect bearings, bolts, journals; measure clearances; replace worn parts; torque and align properly; prime oil before start; consult the FSM for exact specs.
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