- Safety first
- Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated garage with doors open; no smoking, sparks, open flames, or hot work anywhere nearby.
- Wear safety glasses, chemical-resistant gloves (nitrile), and long sleeves; have a Class B/C fire extinguisher rated for fuel fires within arm’s reach.
- Have a clean metal fuel-safe drain pan, absorbent pads, and rags ready for spills; dispose of fuel-soaked rags safely.
- Use jack stands on a level surface — never rely on a jack alone. Keep a phone nearby in case of emergency.

- What you’re doing (brief)
- Replacing the in-tank fuel pump module on a Nissan Skyline R32 (typical location: under rear seat/boot access panel). You’ll remove the pump assembly from the tank, install a new pump or pump module, replace seals/filters as needed, reconnect and test.

- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet and extensions
- What: sockets + ratchet for bolts and nuts.
- How to use: pick the correct socket size so it fits snugly; use extensions for recessed fasteners; turn smoothly, avoid sudden force; back off if a bolt is stuck and apply penetrating oil first.
- Torque wrench (metric)
- What: tool to tighten bolts to a specified torque.
- How to use: set the required torque and tighten until the wrench “clicks.” Use for fuel tank/retaining bolts if specs are provided so seals compress correctly.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips, various sizes)
- What: for screws, clips, and pry work.
- How to use: use properly sized tip to avoid stripping; use flat screwdriver gently as a pry tool only on plastic trim.
- Pliers: needle-nose, slip-joint, and hose clamp pliers
- What: gripping, removing clamps, and manipulating clips.
- How to use: needle-nose for electrical connectors, slip-joint for general work, hose clamp pliers to compress/remove spring-style hose clamps.
- Fuel line disconnect tool(s) (quick-disconnect coupling tool set)
- What: thin plastic/metal tools that release OEM quick-connect fuel fittings.
- Why required: many Skyline fuel lines use quick-disconnect fittings that can be damaged or are impossible to remove without the tool.
- How to use: slide the correct-size tool into the female fitting surrounding the pipe to release the internal catch, then pull the line free while supporting it; keep fittings aligned.
- Jack and jack stands (rated for the car weight) and wheel chocks
- What: lift and safely support the car.
- How to use: chock wheels, jack at factory lift points, place stands under pinch-weld or designated supports, lower car onto stands and test stability before going under.
- Multimeter
- What: measures voltage/continuity.
- How to use: check battery voltage, test pump feed and ground; set to DC volts/ohms as needed; probe connectors carefully.
- Fuel pressure gauge (with adapter) — optional but strongly recommended
- What: measures fuel pressure and lets you verify pump operation and pressure.
- Why: confirms the new pump produces correct pressure and helps diagnose regulator/filter issues.
- How to use: connect to the fuel rail or test port per gauge instructions, observe pressure while key-on and engine running (or cranking).
- Small pry tool / trim tool set (plastic)
- What: remove interior trim and seats without damaging plastic.
- How to use: gently pry clips; work around the perimeter to avoid breaking retainers.
- Wire brush / penetrating oil
- What: clean corroded fasteners or tank flange surfaces.
- How to use: soak rusty bolts with penetrating oil, brush off corrosion before removing bolts.
- Fuel-safe hoses and clamps or pinch-off pliers
- What: to temporarily cap or reroute fuel if required.
- How to use: use proper hose and clamps if you need to run a temporary feed; pinch-off pliers must be fuel-safe and used carefully to avoid damaging lines.
- Replacement O-ring/sealing gasket for pump module + new hose clamps
- What: seals the pump module to the tank and new hose clamps prevent leaks.
- How to use: replace old O-ring/gasket with new one to ensure a leak-free seal; tighten clamps to snug (not crushing) and check.
- Shop manual or factory procedure printout (for torque specs and diagrams)
- What: model-specific instructions, torque values, connector locations.
- How to use: follow the manual for bolt torques, pump orientation, and electrical connectors.

- Parts commonly required / recommended to replace and why
- Fuel pump module (complete in-tank module or pump assembly)
- Why: failed pump, low pressure, noisy pump, or age. Replacing the module is easiest and most reliable.
- Fuel pump strainer/sock (pre-filter)
- Why: prevents debris from entering pump; commonly clogged on old cars; replace whenever pump is replaced.
- O-ring / sealing gasket and retaining ring (pump-to-tank seal)
- Why: old seals harden and leak. Replace to prevent fuel leaks.
- Inline fuel filter
- Why: if the vehicle has an inline filter or if the stock filter is old; replacing prevents clogging and protects the new pump.
- Fuel hoses and clamps
- Why: rubber hoses degrade with age; replace any that are cracked or soft. Use proper fuel-rated hose and new clamps.
- Electrical connectors or pigtails (if corroded)
- Why: bad connection causes intermittent or no power to pump; replace or repair corroded terminals.
- Fuel pressure regulator (if symptoms indicate)
- Why: if pressure is wrong even with a healthy pump, regulator might be faulty.
- Relay/fuse (check and replace if suspect)
- Why: faulty pump relay or blown fuse will prevent pump operation; inexpensive and easy to swap.

- Step-by-step procedure (concise bullets, follow safety bullets above)
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid sparks and accidental cranking.
- Relieve fuel pressure: remove pump fuse/relay and crank the engine a few seconds until no fuel flow; catch any fuel that drips. Keep area ventilated.
- Remove rear seat cushion and backrest (use trim tools/screwdrivers as needed) and locate the fuel pump access cover/panel in the floor or boot; remove screws/fasteners and lift the cover.
- Note fuel pump electrical connector and fuel lines positions; take photos or label to ensure correct reassembly.
- Disconnect electrical connector: use needle-nose pliers or hand; press locking tab and pull straight out.
- Disconnect fuel lines using the correct quick-disconnect tool; support lines and catch any drips in the drain pan.
- Remove retaining bolts or ring securing the pump module (use appropriate socket or spanner). Clean the tank flange area to avoid dirt falling into the tank.
- Carefully lift the pump module straight up out of the tank; be prepared for residual fuel and the module’s float/sender to catch on edges.
- Replace the pump or pump module per parts instructions: swap pump, replace sock/strainer, replace O-ring/gasket and any seals; ensure orientation and float arm clearance match original.
- Inspect tank interior around the opening; remove any debris; do not drop anything into the tank.
- Reinstall pump module: seat the new O-ring evenly, lower module straight into opening, and secure retaining bolts/ring evenly in a star pattern if applicable; torque to spec if available.
- Reconnect fuel lines (ensure quick-disconnect clicks fully engaged) and electrical connector; replace any corroded terminals.
- Reinstall access cover and rear seat.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- Prime the system: turn key to ON (do not start) for several seconds to allow the pump to prime — you should hear pump run briefly; switch OFF and ON a couple of times. Check for fuel leaks around the tank/pump area.
- Start engine and check for proper running and for leaks. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, verify correct pressure at the rail.
- Road test briefly and re-check for leaks; inspect electrical and hose security after test drive.

- How to use the multimeter and fuel pressure gauge briefly
- Multimeter: set to DC volts; probe the pump power connector with key ON; one terminal should read battery voltage, the other should be ground. If no voltage, check fuse/relay and wiring.
- Fuel pressure gauge: attach to the fuel rail/test port per gauge instructions; with key ON pump should pressurize to the specified psi/kPa for the engine version; consult manual for correct value.

- Common pitfalls and tips
- Do not reuse the old O-ring/gasket — always replace to prevent leaks.
- If quick-disconnect fittings are stiff or corroded, use the correct size disconnect tool; do not pry with screwdrivers — you’ll break the connector.
- Support the pump module while removing it; the float arm and wiring are fragile.
- Mark wire harness orientation and float arm positions to avoid misrouting.
- If the pump runs but pressure is low, check filter/strainer orientation, clogged lines, or failing regulator.
- Use fuel-rated hose only when replacing flexible sections; use double clamp or crimp style as appropriate.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Store removed fuel in an approved container and dispose of old fuel and contaminated rags per local hazardous-waste regulations.
- Clean spills immediately with absorbent and ventilate the area until vapors dissipate.

- Final checks
- Confirm no fuel smell, no leaks, and pump runs normally.
- Verify correct fuel pressure and stable idle/no hesitation under load.
- Re-torque fasteners if required after a short test drive.

- Quick parts checklist to order before starting
- Correct in-tank pump module for R32 (match engine/trim: RB20/RB25/RB26 variants differ) or compatible aftermarket module
- Pump strainer/sock
- Pump module O-ring/seal or gasket kit
- Inline fuel filter (if applicable)
- Fuel-rated hose and clamps (if replacing hoses)
- Quick-disconnect tool set (if you don’t have one)
- Replacement electrical terminals/pigtail (as needed)

- Final safety reminder
- Work slowly, keep the area ventilated, no open flames or sparks, and use jack stands. If uncomfortable at any point, stop and have a professional complete the job.

(End — follow each safety and tooling note closely.
rteeqp73

R32 Nissan Skyline - How to Read ECU Error Codes Hey guys, I was having an issue with my car so I decided to make a video on how to check the ECU for error codes. Check it out.

Before you buy a Nissan Skyline GTR (R32) - Ultimate Buyer's Guide What's up guys. Here is an R32 Nissan Skyline GTR buyer's guide. It will only focus on the major changes and different versions of ...

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