Tools & consumables
- Metric socket/ratchet set (8–19 mm), extensions, swivel
- Torque wrench (0–100 Nm range)
- Breaker bar
- Combination wrenches
- Screwdrivers, pry bar
- Feeler gauge set (if adjusting clearances)
- Dial indicator + magnetic base (optional for precise measurement)
- Cam/crank locking tool or suitable pins/holders
- Magnetic tray, shop rags, parts cleaner
- Assembly lube or clean engine oil
- New valve cover gasket, RTV as required
- Replacement rocker arms/rocker shaft/bolts, shims or HLAs if required
- New oil and oil filter (recommended after reassembly)
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection

Safety first
- Work on a cold engine. Let it cool fully.
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, engage parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support any removed components (intake, radiator fans) securely; avoid metal-to-metal contact that can short circuits.
- Keep fuel sources and ignition away from work area.

Overview / applicability
- R32 Skylines use RB-series engines (RB20/25/26). Some use hydraulic lash adjusters (HLA), others use shim‑under‑bucket or shim‑over‑bucket designs. HLAs usually don’t require valve clearance shims; shim/bucket types require cam removal to change clearances.
- This procedure covers inspection, removal and replacement of rocker arms/rocker shafts and related parts. For valve clearance adjustment on shim/bucket heads you must remove camshafts and change shims — that portion is called out where applicable.

Step‑by‑step

1) Prep & access
- Remove the engine cover/plenum/intake to gain full access to the valve covers (keep fuel/injector connections labelled if removed).
- Remove ignition components (coil packs/leads) on valve covers.
- Remove any obstructions (intake runners, breather hoses, intake snorkels) so you can access and remove the valve cover(s).
- Unbolt and remove the valve cover(s). Pick up the valve cover gasket and clean mating surfaces.

2) Visual inspection with cover off
- Rotate the engine by hand (socket on crank pulley) clockwise to bring each cylinder to TDC in sequence. Inspect rocker arms, shafts, oil passages and pivots for scoring, pitting, broken parts, excessive lateral play or metal debris.
- Check oil supply holes in the rocker and rocker shaft for blockage.
- Note any noisy/loose rockers or collapsed lifters (HLAs) — these indicate replacement.

3) Decide whether cam removal is needed
- If the engine uses HLAs and you’re only replacing rocker arms/shafts, you usually remove shaft/rockers only.
- If the engine uses buckets/shims, you will need to remove the camshafts to remove buckets and replace shims — this requires marking timing and locking cams/crank prior to removal.

4) Remove rocker shaft or rocker assembly (general)
- Mark/label position of each rocker and any spacers to keep original order.
- Loosen rocker shaft/bridge bolts gradually in a crisscross pattern, one or two turns at a time, to avoid distorting the shaft.
- Remove bolts, then lift the rocker shaft assembly straight up. Keep spacers/shims and bolts in order.
- If rockers are separate pieces, remove each rocker and inspect the mating surfaces.

How the tools are used
- Breaker bar: for initial loosening of stubborn bolts.
- Torque wrench: for final tightening to specified torque in multiple incremental passes (tighten gradually to final torque).
- Feeler gauge: if measuring valve clearance on adjustable systems — insert gauge between rocker and valve tip with the cam lobe on base circle.
- Dial indicator: to measure valve lash or HLA collapse/clearance if precision required.
- Cam/crank locking tool: locks timing when removing cam caps so camshafts don’t rotate and timing is preserved.

5) Inspect parts & measure wear
- Examine rockers for: worn contact pad, flatness, pitting, broken studs, excessive lateral play in bushings.
- Inspect rocker shaft for scoring and ovality; measure shaft diameter if possible. Excessive wear → replace shaft.
- Inspect bolts and washer faces for elongation; replace any bolts that show stretch or scoring.
- Check HLAs: if collapsed or noisy, replace HLAs and follow bleeding/priming procedure.
- Check buckets/shims for wear — measure shim thickness and valve clearance. Replace shims to achieve spec clearance on shim/bucket heads.

6) Replacement parts & when required
- Replace rocker arms if contact surfaces are worn or cracked.
- Replace rocker shaft if scored or out of round.
- Replace shaft/rocker bolts if damaged or torque-to-yield type.
- Replace valve cover gasket and any O‑rings removed.
- If cam removal was done, consider new cam seals and inspect cam journals/caps; replace journal bolts if specified.
- Always use OEM or high-quality aftermarket parts for critical wear items.

7) Reassembly
- Clean all mating surfaces and oil passages. Blow compressed air through oil galleries if available (clean rag over open ports).
- Lightly lube rocker contact surfaces and cam lobes with assembly lube or clean engine oil.
- Refit rockers and/or shaft in the exact order and orientation recorded. Replace spacers/washers as originally fitted.
- Tighten rocker shaft/bridge bolts in the correct sequence in multiple stages to final torque. Use the torque wrench properly: set to value, tighten until wrench clicks; repeat in sequence if required.
- If cams were removed, reinstall camshafts carefully, torque cam cap bolts in the specified sequence and values, re-time the cam belt/chain per factory procedure and check timing marks.
- Reinstall valve cover with new gasket (apply RTV only where factory specifies), torque cover fasteners to spec.

Torque notes
- Factory torque values vary by model-year and head type. Consult the Nissan factory service manual (FSM). Typical ranges:
- Valve cover bolts: ~8–10 Nm
- Rocker shaft/bridge bolts: typically in the low tens of Nm (multiple-pass tightening)
- Cam journal bolts: higher – follow FSM
- Do not guess torque. Over- or under-torquing cam/rocker hardware causes catastrophic engine damage.

8) Final checks & start-up
- Reconnect ignition/fuel/inlets, reconnect battery.
- Prime oil system by cranking engine (no start) if HLAs were replaced or cam removed: crank to build oil pressure, then inspect for leaks.
- Start engine; listen carefully for unusual noises (ticking, knocking). A brief break-in noise may be normal after parts replacement, but persistent loud ticking indicates incorrect clearances or oiling issues.
- Re-check for oil leaks around valve covers and seals. After a short test run re-torque accessible fasteners if the FSM recommends.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Not disconnecting battery or protecting electricals when removing parts.
- Removing camshafts without marking timing — always lock cams/crank and mark timing.
- Loosening or tightening rocker/cam bolts in one shot — always use staged, cross-sequence tightening to prevent distortion.
- Reusing single‑use torque-to-yield bolts or bolts that show stretch.
- Not cleaning oil galleries — blocked oil feed to rockers causes rapid failure.
- Skipping prime of oil system after HLA or cam work — HLAs will be noisy/damaged if started dry.
- Incorrect shim selection on shim/bucket heads — giving wrong clearance will cause valvetrain noise or damage.
- Using wrong parts (non‑matched rockers, wrong shaft orientation).

When to get pro help
- If you must remove camshafts and you are not familiar with timing procedures, get a shop manual and consider professional help. Cam timing errors lead to major damage.
- If there is scoring on cam journals, or metal debris in oil, consult a machine shop.

Quick replacement parts checklist
- Rocker arms (set)
- Rocker shaft and bolts (if worn)
- Valve cover gasket
- HLAs or shims/buckets (as required)
- Cam/crank seal(s) if cam removal
- New oil and oil filter

That’s the condensed, practical procedure. Follow the Nissan FSM for your R32 engine variant for exact torque specs, sequences and shim thickness tables.
rteeqp73

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