Goal: Give you a clear, beginner-friendly guide to understanding, inspecting, removing, and reinstalling connecting rods on a Nissan Skyline R32 (RB-series engine family). I’ll explain every component you’ll meet, the theory of how it works, why you’d work on it, what tools and measurements matter, step-by-step procedures at a practical level, and common failures to watch for. Do not skip the factory service manual for specs (torques, clearances, and sequences) — I’ll note where you must follow it.

Plain-language analogy up front
- Think of the piston as the head of a hammer and the connecting rod as the hammer handle. The crankshaft is the person swinging it. The rod transfers the up-and-down force of combustion into the rotating motion of the crank. Every joint needs to be strong and well-lubricated or the engine will chatter, lose power, or suffer catastrophic failure.

1) Components — every part you’ll see and what it does
- Connecting rod (rod body)
- Big end: the larger circular end that fits around the crankshaft journal.
- Small end: the top end that accepts the piston wrist pin (gudgeon pin).
- Grain/forging: rods may be forged (strong) or powdered/cast (weaker). RB26 factory rods are forged.
- Rod cap
- Matches the big end and is bolted to the rod. The rod and cap are a pair — they must be kept together and aligned.
- Rod bolts (or nuts)
- Fasten the cap to the rod. Many performance rods use high-strength bolts; some factory bolts are torque-to-yield (single-use). Replace bolts as required.
- Bearing shells (big-end bearings)
- Two half-shells (upper and lower) sit between the rod big end and the crankshaft journal. They have an oil groove and a locating tang. They control clearance and provide a low-friction surface.
- Wrist pin (gudgeon pin)
- Passes through the piston and small end of the rod to connect piston and rod. It may be full-floating or pressed-in.
- Small-end bushing (if present)
- A bronze/steel sleeve in the small end that the wrist pin rides in (common in some engines; others use full-floating pins with circlips).
- Oil passages/oil squirters
- Oil passages feed the rod bearings. On some engines there are piston cooling oil jets that spray oil at the underside of the piston.
- Crankshaft journal
- The round surface on the crank that the rod bearings ride on. Must be smooth, round, and within tolerance.
- Cap rail and alignment dowels
- The rod and cap usually have alignment features so they seat the same way every time; never flip the cap.

2) Theory — why rods matter and how the system works
- Role: The connecting rod transfers combustion pressure from the piston to the crankshaft and converts the linear piston motion into rotation.
- Loads:
- Compression stroke: rod is in compression (piston being forced down).
- Exhaust/intake and overlap: inertia creates tensile loads (pulling the piston upward).
- Bending and side loads: pistons don’t move perfectly straight; side thrust loads the rod and small-end bushing.
- Bearings and clearance:
- Bearings create a thin film of pressurized oil between the rod and crank journal. Correct bearing clearance is critical: too tight = seizing; too loose = low oil pressure/knock.
- Lubrication:
- Oil pressure and oil passages feed the bearings; oil film carries the load. Loss of oil or blocked passages = rapid bearing damage.
- Balancing:
- Rod and piston weight affects engine balance. For high-RPM or performance builds rods/pistons should be matched and balanced.

3) Why you’d remove/repair rods
- Symptoms that lead you here:
- Rod knock (deep metallic tapping that varies with RPM/under load).
- Low oil pressure accompanied by bearing noise.
- Metal in the oil filter or pan.
- Excessive piston slap or performance drop.
- Bent rod after hydrolock (ingesting coolant/water) or severe detonation.
- Rebuilding engine for higher power: upgrading rods, rod bolts, or bearings.
- Typical jobs:
- Replace worn bearings.
- Replace cracked/bent rods.
- Replace rod bolts (single-use/TY bolts).
- Re-bore or polish journals (requires machine shop).
- Install ARP bolts or heavy-duty aftermarket rods.

4) Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Factory service manual (must-have for torque specs & tolerances).
- Engine stand (recommended if the engine is out).
- Basic hand tools: socket set, breaker bar, extensions, ratchets.
- Torque wrench (accurate and suitable for specified torques).
- Micrometer (0.01 mm or better) and/or bore gauge to measure journal diameters.
- Plastigauge (for checking bearing oil clearance).
- Feeler gauges and dial indicator (for rod side play).
- Clean rags, solvent, parts trays, marking paint/marker.
- Hammer, soft-face mallet, brass drift (for circlips), ring compressor (if reinstalling pistons).
- Replacement bearings, bolts, new circlips/wrist pin retainers, assembly lube.
- Calipers, digital scale (for balancing rods/pistons if needed).
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses.

5) Overview procedure (high-level steps — follow service manual for exact details and specs)
Note: For an in-car job you’ll at minimum remove oil pan. Full engine removal makes it much cleaner and easier. Always keep rods/caps paired and oriented.

A. Preparation
- Drain oil and coolant if needed.
- Remove oil pan and windage tray to access rod caps (on RB engines you’ll need to remove oil pan and possibly rear main if engine out).
- Rotate the engine so the piston you’re working on is at a convenient position (usually at Bottom Dead Center for cap removal).
- Clean working area and lay out parts trays labeled by cylinder.

B. Removing a rod/piston assembly (bottom-up method)
- Mark each rod and cap with cylinder number and “front” orientation; rods and caps must go back together in the same orientation.
- Remove rod cap bolts/nuts and cap — tap gently with a soft mallet if stuck. Keep cap with its rod.
- Push piston and rod assembly up into the cylinder (if heads removed) or remove piston from top after head removal. If you are removing pistons while engine in car, you may have to extract from the top after removing the head.
- If piston must come out from the bottom, the cap must be removed and the piston carefully pulled out from the top — do not let the rod drop and scratch the crank or cylinder.

C. Inspection and measurements
- Bearing shells:
- Inspect for scoring, discoloration (blueing), embedded metal, or crushing.
- Use plastigauge to measure bearing clearance between rod bearing and journal (follow plastigauge instructions).
- Compare measured clearance with factory spec.
- Rod bores and journals:
- Check big-end inside diameter for out-of-round or taper with a bore gauge or have machine shop measure.
- Check rod alignment/straightness with dial indicator or have machine shop check for twist/bend.
- Wrist pin and small end:
- Check the wrist pin for scoring and measure small-end clearance. Check circlips for damage.
- Crankshaft journals:
- Visually inspect for scoring or heat spots. Measure journal diameter and out-of-round with micrometer (or have machine shop).
- Rod bolts:
- Inspect bolts. If they’re torque-to-yield or show stretch, replace. Recommend replacing rod bolts any time rods are removed for service unless manual says otherwise.
- Surfaces and fasteners:
- Check mating surfaces and alignment dowels; clean thoroughly.

D. Deciding what to replace or machine
- Replace bearings if worn, any scoring, or out-of-spec clearance.
- Replace rod bolts per service manual or if using aftermarket bolts recommended.
- If rod big-end is out-of-round/tapered/stressed or cracked, replace the rod or have it reconditioned (rarely worthwhile beyond a point).
- If crank journals are scored, require polish or regrind (machine shop; may require undersize bearings).
- If small-end bushing wear is excessive, replace bushing or rod (or have machine shop re-bush).
- For any high-mileage or performance rebuild, consider upgrading to stronger bolts or aftermarket rods.

E. Reassembly basics
- Clean everything thoroughly; no dirt/metal in oilways or bearing surfaces.
- Fit new bearing shells into rod and cap (align tangs into notch).
- Lightly oil bearings with clean engine oil or assembly lube.
- If pistons were removed, fit wrist pin and secure circlips correctly (they must seat fully).
- Seat the piston/rod assembly into the cylinder from the top, guiding rod to crank journal.
- Fit rod cap in correct orientation and alignment dowels.
- Tighten rod bolts in specified sequence and torque in stages to final torque (or follow torque+angle spec for TY bolts). Use a calibrated torque wrench.
- After torquing, rotate crank by hand to ensure smooth motion and no binding.
- Check side clearance on rod (endplay) and bearing clearance (use plastigauge if required).
- Reinstall oil pan, fill with oil, prime oiling system if necessary (turn oil pump with starter disabled or crank engine briefly to build oil pressure) before running.
- First start: run at low RPM and check for leaks/noises; re-torque if recommended after initial run (some engines require re-torque).

6) Critical measurements and tolerances (what matters most)
- Bearing clearance (radial oil clearance) — measured with plastigauge or micrometer/bore gauges. Must be within factory spec.
- Crankshaft journal diameter and roundness — must be within spec. If not, machine shop work needed.
- Rod big-end bore roundness and alignment — out-of-round or twist can cause bearing failure.
- Torque on rod bolts — crucial. Use factory torque figures and any angle tightening procedure for TY bolts. Replace bolts when specified.
- Piston-to-wall and wrist-pin clearances — affect piston movement and noise.

7) Common things that go wrong and how to spot them
- Rod knock (bearing wear)
- Symptom: deep knocking that gets louder under load. Usually caused by worn/deformed bearings or low oil pressure.
- Bearing score or spall
- Caused by contamination, oil starvation, or overheating. Look for embedded metal, flaking, or discolored bearings.
- Crank journal damage
- Severe scoring will ruin bearing surfaces and require grinding/turning in a machine shop.
- Bent rod
- Usually from hydrolock (water/coolant ingestion) or mechanical interference. Rod will not be straight — engine will be removed and rod replaced.
- Broken rod bolt
- Catastrophic failure often leads to thrown rod and engine border-line destruction (big bangs, oil pressure loss, metal in the pan).
- Misassembled rod/cap or reversed cap
- Causes improper seating and immediate failure; always mark orientation and keep pairs together.
- Insufficient lubrication (blocked oil passage, failed oil pump)
- Rapid bearing failure; check oil passages and ensure proper oil pump function.
- Incorrect clearances or torques
- Too tight = seizure; too loose = low oil pressure and knocking.

8) Practical tips and best practices
- Always keep rod and cap paired and mark orientation (front, cylinder number). The cap must go back to its mate, in the correct way.
- Replace rod bolts if the manual says so, or if they show stretch. Many performance builders use ARP bolts and follow their torque specs.
- Use assembly lube on bearings during assembly; don’t rely on initial splash oil alone.
- Plastigauge is inexpensive and quick to check bearing clearance when you don’t have machine gauges. Follow instructions and use correct crank position (no rotation while plastigauge is squashed).
- If journals are suspect, get a reputable machine shop to measure and grind/polish journals and fit undersize bearings if necessary.
- Cleanliness is everything — a single metal shaving can destroy a bearing quickly.
- If doing a performance build, match and balance rod/piston assemblies to the same weight for smooth high-RPM operation.

9) When to involve a machine shop or professional
- Any crankshaft journal scoring, out-of-round, or need for undersize bearings.
- Rod big-end requiring re-boring, reconditioning, or alignment correction.
- If you’re replacing rods with different weight parts — balancing is critical and should be done professionally for high-performance engines.
- If you’re unsure or the engine will be used for high power or racing: pay for professional crankshaft/rod/piston services.

10) Final checks before starting the engine
- Verify bearing clearance and torque specs are met.
- Rotate the crank smoothly by hand several revolutions — no catching, binding, or odd resistance.
- Prime oiling system or crank with oil pump until oil pressure established (factory procedures).
- Reinstall oil pan and all oil lines; refill with fresh oil and filter.
- On initial start, check oil pressure immediately and listen for noises. Keep revs low for the first break-in period.

Closing — key safety and sanity points
- Never skip the factory service manual. Exact torques, clearances, and sequences for the R32’s RB engine must be followed.
- Replace consumables (bearings, bolts) as required rather than gamble on reused parts.
- Work cleanly and methodically. Label everything. If in doubt about journal condition or rod alignment, consult a machine shop.
- If you’re rebuilding for performance, consider upgrading bolts or rods and get balancing done.

That’s the complete beginner-to-intermediate-level rundown: what every component is, why rods matter, the theory, a practical workflow, what to measure, what goes wrong, and safety tips. Follow the factory specs and get professional help for crank/rod machining or when in doubt.
rteeqp73

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