What you’re asking for — how to work on the exhaust manifold of an R32 Skyline — covers both theory and hands‑on steps. Below is a beginner‑friendly, practical guide that explains the system, every component you’ll touch, why the repair is needed, what commonly goes wrong, and a clear step‑by‑step procedure for removing and installing an exhaust manifold. Important: there are several R32 engine variants (RB20, RB25DET, RB26DETT, RB20E, NA vs turbo), and manifolds/turbo arrangements differ. Use this as a general guide and confirm bolt sizes, torque specs and parts for your exact engine with a factory/manual or parts fiche before doing final torquing.

Quick summary (one line): the exhaust manifold collects each cylinder’s exhaust pulses and directs them to the turbo/downpipe/catalyst — leaks or cracks make noise, reduce performance, and can overheat nearby parts. Fixing it = remove manifold hardware, replace or repair manifold and gasket, reinstall torqued to spec, verify no leaks.

1) Theory / how it works (simple analogies)
- Role of the manifold: imagine each cylinder is a person blowing into a shared funnel. The exhaust manifold is the funnel that gathers exhaust from each cylinder and directs it into the turbocharger or downpipe. If the funnel has holes or loose bolts, some air escapes before it reaches the turbo — like people blowing into a funnel with holes — you lose pressure/efficiency and create noise.
- For turbo models (RB25DET, RB26DETT): manifolds channel hot exhaust into the turbine housing to spool the turbo(s). Leak = turbo spools slower, lower boost and power. For RB26DETT the engine uses two exhaust manifolds feeding two turbos (one per bank); non‑GTR RBs may have single manifolds.
- Why repairs are needed: thermal stress + vibration + corrosion cause cracks, warped flanges, eroded bolt threads, and failed gaskets. Salt/age increases rust so nuts/studs seize and break.
- What can go wrong: cracked manifold, warped mating surface, blown exhaust gasket, snapped studs/bolts, stripped head threads, oxygen sensor threads damaged, heatshield rusted, turbo flange damage.

2) Components — what each is and how it interacts
- Exhaust manifold (casting or tubular header): channels exhaust from ports to turbo/downpipe. May be integrated with turbo flange.
- Flange: flat surface where manifold mates to exhaust port or turbo flange; needs clean, flat surface for a seal.
- Exhaust manifold gasket: sits between head and manifold; usually multi‑layer steel (MLS) or composite. Seals the joint against high temp/high pressure.
- Studs and nuts (head studs or manifold bolts): anchor the manifold to the head. Many Skylines use studs in the head with nuts on manifold.
- Downpipe/Turbine flange: next section the manifold bolts into (turbo outlet to downpipe). On turbo cars you’ll unbolt the downpipe from the turbo/manifold during service.
- Oxygen sensor (O2 sensor): often threaded into the downpipe/manifold; measures exhaust composition for fuel control or monitoring.
- Heatshield: thin metal cover protecting surrounding parts from radiant heat.
- Heat‑wrap/insulation (if installed): may be wrapped around manifold to lower under‑hood temps.
- EGT/thermocouples (if present): monitor temperatures; may be threaded into manifold or downpipe.
- Dowel pins: alignment pins that position manifold to head so bolt holes line up.
- Anti‑seize/threads: applied to slow corrosion and ease removal in future. Use a high‑temp anti‑seize on exhaust studs up to manufacturer recommendations.

3) Symptoms indicating a manifold issue
- Ticking or metallic exhaust leak noise on cold start that changes with RPM.
- Decreased turbo spool or power (less common if large leak).
- Burnt smell or heat damage to nearby hoses/wiring.
- Visible exhaust soot around flange/gasket.
- Failed emissions or O2 sensor errors if leaks are upstream of sensor.
- Excessive engine bay heat.

4) Tools, parts, supplies you’ll need
Tools
- Basic socket set (including deep sockets), ratchet, extensions
- Wrenches (open/box)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil)
- Breaker bar, torque wrench (essential)
- Impact gun (helpful, but be careful)
- Wire brush, gasket scraper or plastic scraper
- Heat source (propane torch) — optional, use with caution
- Vice grips / stud extractor / nut splitter (for broken studs)
- Small jack and jack stands or ramps (if needed)
- Torque angle gauge if manual requires angle tightening
- Safety glasses, gloves

Parts/Supplies
- New exhaust manifold gasket(s) (head to manifold)
- New studs and nuts (recommended to replace seized hardware)
- New manifold (or refurbished), or bolts if applicable
- High‑temp anti‑seize compound
- Anti‑seize for oxygen sensor
- Exhaust gasket for turbo/downpipe joint
- O2 sensor thread sealant (if required)
- New heatshield clips if missing
- Replacement studs/Helicoil kit if head threads are damaged

5) Safety and prep
- Work on a cool engine. The exhaust system gets extremely hot.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal.
- Park on level surface, use jack stands if working under car. Never rely solely on a jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Work in a well‑ventilated area.
- Label parts and take photos during disassembly to help reassembly.

6) General removal procedure (step‑by‑step)
Note: loosen bolts gradually and evenly. If manifold is near turbo, treat that joint carefully. Don’t yank when studs are stubborn.

A. Prep
- Let engine cool fully.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Remove any obstructing parts: air intake piping, intercooler piping (if needed), heatshields, wheel/inner wheel arch liners for access if required.
- Spray penetrating oil on all manifold studs, nuts, and downpipe bolts. Let soak for hours or overnight.

B. Disconnect sensors and downstream parts
- Unplug/remove oxygen sensor(s) from manifold/downpipe. Apply anti‑seize to threads before reinstalling sensors later.
- Unbolt the downpipe from the turbo/manifold flange (or remove the bolts between manifold and turbo if separate). Support the downpipe if removing.

C. Remove heatshield and accessories
- Remove heatshield(s) covering manifold.
- Remove any brackets, vacuum lines, wiring harness clips attached to manifold.

D. Loosen manifold fasteners
- If manifold uses studs, loosen nuts gradually in a criss‑cross pattern over multiple passes (e.g., a 1/4 turn each pass) to avoid stress concentration and warping.
- If bolts are extremely seized: apply more penetrating oil and use heat on the stud (from the outside of the manifold) to expand metal and break corrosion. Heat can be effective but be careful — excessive heat can damage nearby sensors, hoses, plastic. Do NOT apply torch inside the head or near any seals.
- If a stud breaks: often the stud will break off flush with head. You can try to remove the remaining stud with a left‑handed extractor, vice grips, or drill and use a screw extractor. If extractor fails, you may need to cut the stud and rethread with a helicoil or install a new bolt if accessible. Have a plan to repair head threads — damaged head threads may require machine shop work.

E. Remove manifold
- Once all fasteners are removed, wiggle the manifold free. It may be stuck from old gasket material — use gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet. Do not pry on mating surfaces with a screwdriver that can gouge the head or flange.
- Inspect mating surfaces and note gasket material and residue.

7) Cleaning and inspection
- Inspect manifold for cracks, especially near flanges and near head bolt holes. Cast iron manifolds can crack; tubular manifolds (headers) may crack at welds.
- Inspect flange for flatness. A warped flange can be skimmed by a machine shop or replaced.
- Inspect studs and threads in the head. If threads are damaged, plan helicoil/insert or re‑tap.
- Clean head mating surface: carefully remove gasket material with plastic or brass scraper, wire brush and solvent. Don’t gouge metal.
- Clean manifold flange and flange faces on turbo/downpipe.

8) Replacement/repair decisions
- Replace gasket always between head and manifold.
- Replace manifold if cracked, severely warped, or if flange is damaged beyond machining.
- Replace studs and nuts if corroded — cheaper now than broken bolts later.
- If manifold flange is warped a machine shop can skim it flat (check tolerances).

9) Installation (step‑by‑step)
A. Fitment prep
- Make sure mating surfaces are clean and dry.
- Use new gasket(s). Place dowel pins if manifold/head uses them.
- Coat stud threads with a thin layer of high‑temp anti‑seize where recommended. Do NOT coat mating face.
- If using new studs, install to correct depth — some threads are torque‑to‑yield, so follow manual.

B. Hand‑fit manifold and start nuts
- Fit manifold to dowels and start nuts by hand to avoid cross‑threading.
- Make multiple passes tightening nuts in a criss‑cross pattern. This evens seating and reduces distortion.
- If manual specifies torque sequence/values, follow it exactly. Tighten in stages: e.g. snug, 50% torque, final torque (do not skip stages).

C. Torque specs and patterns
- I cannot guarantee exact torques for your R32 variant without the manual. Typical exhaust manifold stud nuts are torqued in the 20–50 Nm range for many engines, but the RB‑series may require different values. Always verify exact torque and sequence in the factory service manual. Use a calibrated torque wrench and follow the sequence diagram in the manual.

D. Reattach downpipe/turbo flange and sensors
- Refit downpipe/turbine flange with new gasket. Torque bolts/nuts gradually in an alternating pattern.
- Reinstall O2 sensors with anti‑seize on threads (not on sensor tip). Reconnect electrical connectors.
- Reinstall heatshields and any brackets.

E. Final checks
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and inspect for leaks. Listen for ticking or hissing. Check for black soot around flange joints.
- After a short warm‑up and cool cycle, re‑torque manifold nuts to spec if manual calls for re‑torque after heat cycling.
- Recheck all fittings and sensor connectors.

10) Common problems and how to handle them
- Snapped studs: remove with extractor or drill and helicoil the head. If studs snap below head surface, you may need a machine shop.
- Stripped head threads: helicoil/insert repair is a common fix.
- Warped flange: machine shop can skim manifold; replacement is often easier depending on cost.
- Cracks: welded repair is possible on cast iron but requires proper welder and pre/post heat treatment; replacing manifold is often more reliable.
- O2 sensor threads damaged: use thread repair or replace the section of pipe as needed.
- Recurring leaks: usually due to warped flange, incorrect gasket, or not torqued to spec.

11) Tips and best practices
- Replace studs and gaskets whenever you disturb the joint on older cars.
- Apply anti‑seize sparingly to studs’ threads, not to the flange seating area.
- Work methodically: mark wires, take pictures, label bolts/parts.
- Use a long‑reach socket and breaker bar to apply steady torque rather than hammering with an impact when removing main head nuts — impacts can shear studs.
- If you’re uncertain about removing broken studs or repairing head threads, stop and consult a machine shop or experienced mechanic. Head damage is expensive to fix.
- Consider replacing with higher‑quality studs (stainless or ARP) if you intend to run higher boost or aftermarket hardware — but match thread lengths and materials.

12) What to check after reassembly
- Listen for ticking exhaust leaks at idle and under load.
- Inspect for soot at flanges.
- Monitor boost and engine behavior. Watch for check engine lights or O2 sensor readings that indicate a leak upstream.
- Recheck torque after a few heat cycles if manual recommends it.

Closing practical notes
- The work is straightforward but can get difficult if studs are corroded or threads are damaged. Biggest time sinks are penetrating seized fasteners and extracting broken studs.
- Don’t improvise with excessive heat or force near plastic wiring, sensors, or fuel lines.
- Get the factory service manual (or a reliable repair manual) for your exact R32 engine variant for correct torque specs, bolt lengths and tightening sequences before final torqueing.

That’s the practical, component‑by‑component explanation and stepwise method. Follow safety precautions, take your time removing corroded hardware, replace gaskets/studs, and verify torques with the factory manual.
rteeqp73

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Short ordered procedure with theory at each step — how and why each action fixes common R32 knuckle faults (bearing wear, play, bent knuckle, broken studs, damaged ball-joint/bushing or ABS ring). Follow factory torque specs and safety practices.

1) Verify symptom and localize fault
- Action: Jack car, secure on stands, spin wheel, grab at 12 & 6 and 3 & 9 to feel radial/axial play, check free play in tie rod/ball joints, inspect brake rotor wobble and ABS tone ring, measure hub runout with dial indicator.
- Theory / why it matters: Distinguishes bearing radial play (hub/bearing failure), lateral play (ball joints/upper/lower arm bushings), or bent knuckle (rotor runout + visible deformation). Diagnosis guides whether bearing press, knuckle replacement, or arm/ball joint work is needed.

2) Prepare and remove wheel, brake components, and sensors
- Action: Remove wheel, caliper + bracket (support caliper), rotor, ABS sensor/tone ring wiring as required.
- Theory: Frees the hub/knuckle for disassembly without damage. Removing the caliper prevents brake drag and provides access to hub/knuckle fasteners and bearing retaining hardware.

3) Uncouple steering and suspension joints
- Action: Disconnect tie-rod end from knuckle, separate lower/upper ball joints or control arm bolts as required (on front strut R32: detach lower ball joint or control arm to free knuckle), remove strut-to-knuckle bolts or unbolt hub carrier connections.
- Theory: Knuckle must be isolated from suspension and steering links to remove it or to extract the pressed-in bearing/hub. This relieves load so components can be removed without bending or overstressing adjacent parts.

4) Remove hub/axle or drive flange
- Action: Remove axle nut and slide CV axle out of hub (front), or unbolt hub from knuckle. If hub-bearing is integrated, unbolt or press out hub assembly. For rear, remove driveshaft and brake backing as needed.
- Theory: Hub/axle retention holds bearing preload and axial load; removing them allows the hub and bearing to be disassembled. For R32, many faults originate in the hub bearing assembly; accessing the hub is required to assess and replace the bearing or knuckle.

5) Separate hub bearing from knuckle (press operation)
- Action: Use hydraulic press or professional shop press to remove the bearing from the knuckle and/or press the hub out of the bearing, using appropriate adapters to avoid damage.
- Theory: Bearings are interference-fit and must be pressed out concentrically. Correct pressing prevents damage to knuckle bores, hub flanges, and bearing races. Removing the bearing reveals whether the knuckle bore or bearing faces are scored or distorted—indicating whether knuckle replacement is necessary.

6) Inspect knuckle and mating surfaces
- Action: Check knuckle bore roundness, bearing seat surface, tie-rod and ball joint bores for elongation, check ABS tone ring and mating surfaces, look for cracks or bends, measure runout on rotor mounting face.
- Theory: Bearing failures often score the knuckle; impact or overload can bend the knuckle or crack it. If the bearing seat is out of round or cracked, pressing in a new bearing won’t restore geometry — replacement knuckle is required. Measuring runout and bores determines whether reassembly will restore wheel alignment and safe bearing preload.

7) Repair or replace parts based on inspection
- Action: If knuckle is straight and seats are sound, replace bearing and hub assembly (new bearing and correct seals). If bore damaged or knuckle bent/cracked, replace knuckle assembly. Replace wheel studs if damaged.
- Theory: New bearing restores smooth rolling surface and correct internal preload; replacing a damaged knuckle restores suspension geometry, steering pivot points, and hub alignment. Using worn or damaged mating surfaces leaves play or causes premature bearing failure and uneven tire wear.

8) Clean and prepare surfaces; press in new bearing/hub
- Action: Clean knuckle bore, torque face, and hub. Press new bearing into knuckle (or hub into bearing) using correct orientation, adapters and only on the bearing’s outer race (or hub on inner race) as required; install retaining circlips/seals.
- Theory: Proper installation method transmits press force through correct race so the bearing isn’t internally damaged. Clean surfaces ensure seating accuracy and correct preload. Correct orientation and retention prevents axial movement and maintains preload under load.

9) Refit hub/axle, torque axle nut and fasteners
- Action: Reinstall hub/axle and torque nut to factory spec (use new castellated nut/cotter pin where required), reinstall any retaining bolts and new lock hardware.
- Theory: Correct torque and locking prevent axial movement that would upset bearing preload. Preload and axial location ensure the bearing carries load in its designed positions, eliminating play and noise.

10) Reassemble knuckle to suspension and steering joints
- Action: Reconnect ball joints, control arms, tie-rod end. Replace worn ball joints or bushings; use new nuts/bolts as required. Torque to factory specifications in proper sequence.
- Theory: Proper torque and connection restore the original pivot geometry. Worn ball joints or loose fasteners allow unwanted movement that mimics knuckle/bearing faults; replacing or tightening restores steering accuracy and suspension kinematics.

11) Reinstall brakes, sensors, and wheel; verify ABS tone ring alignment
- Action: Refit rotor, caliper/bracket, wheel speed sensor and secure wiring. Ensure tone ring isn’t damaged and is concentric.
- Theory: Correct brake and sensor installation restores braking function and ABS signal fidelity. A warped or misaligned tone ring will cause ABS errors even after bearing replacement.

12) Pre-torque, torque-to-spec, and final checks
- Action: Lower car to ride height (or use spring compressor where applicable) before final torquing of suspension pivot bolts when specified by manufacturer. Torque all fasteners to factory values. Check wheel bearing endplay if applicable.
- Theory: Some suspension joints require final torque at normal ride height to avoid preloading bushings incorrectly; this preserves intended geometry and bushing life. Proper torque prevents fastener loosening that would reintroduce play.

13) Alignment and dynamic verification
- Action: Get a professional 4-wheel alignment (toe, camber, caster) after reassembly. Road test at low speed then progressively faster; listen/feel for noise, check straight-line tracking and ABS operation.
- Theory: Replacing bearings or knuckles can change wheel offset or caster/camber slightly. Alignment corrects geometry so tires wear evenly and handling is predictable. Road testing verifies that the original symptom (play, noise, wobble) is cured and that no new issues were introduced.

How each repair fixes specific faults (summary)
- Worn bearing: Replacing the bearing removes radial/axial play and noise because new races and rollers/balls restore tight running tolerance and preload.
- Bent knuckle: Replacing the knuckle restores correct hub centerline, rotor plane, and suspension pivot geometry — repairing runout and steering irregularities that caused wobble and uneven tire wear.
- Damaged wheel studs: New studs restore proper wheel clamping and prevent stud pull-through or wheel looseness.
- Worn ball joints/bushings: Replacing removes joint slop so loads are transferred through intended suspension paths instead of through unintended movement that accelerates bearing and tire wear.
- Damaged ABS ring/sensor: Replacing or correcting tone-ring alignment restores reliable wheel-speed signals, preventing false ABS activation.

Key technical notes (concise)
- Use a press and correct adapters; never hammer bearings into place. Pressing on the wrong race destroys the bearing.
- Always use factory torque specs and final-torque suspension bolts at ride height if the manual requires it.
- If knuckle bore is out of round or cracked, press-fitting a new bearing is a temporary fix — replace knuckle.
- After work, always perform alignment and a careful road test.

That’s the ordered theory-driven repair flow and why each action fixes the fault.
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