REBUILDING A BARN FIND R32 SKYLINE | PART 7 Store: https://www.benkispec.com ➢Instagram @rex_hyt https://www.instagram.com/rex_hyt/ ➢ BUSINESS ENQUIRES: ...

Installing RB26 Cylinder Head│Project R32 GTR We install a few bits around the motor and we also get at the cylinder head and torque that down using out ARP stud kit.

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- Scope and quick orientation
- This guide covers removing, inspecting, cleaning, and installing an intercooler on a Nissan Skyline R32. Two common setups: top-mount intercooler (TMIC) found on R32 GT-R and some turbo R32s, and front-mount intercooler (FMIC) fitted behind the front bumper on other turbo models or aftermarket upgrades. Follow the TMIC bullets if your intercooler sits under the hood on top of the engine; follow the FMIC bullets if it sits behind the front bumper.
- Read through all bullets before starting. Always consult the factory service manual for torque specs and vehicle-specific details.

- Safety basics (read — do it)
- Park on level ground, engine cool, parking brake on, wheels chocked.
- Use jack stands rated for your car if you raise it; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Have a fire extinguisher nearby when working around fuel lines or oily parts.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before working on intercooler plumbing near electronics or sensors.

- Basic tools you need (descriptions and how to use)
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions
- Description: Metric sockets (8–19 mm typically), 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet, 3–6" extension bars.
- How to use: Select correct socket size, push onto ratchet, place square drive on bolt head, pull handle to loosen/tighten. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts. Avoid rounding bolts—apply steady force.
- Torque wrench
- Description: Click-type torque wrench covering common automotive ranges (e.g., 10–150 Nm).
- How to use: Set required torque value, tighten bolt until wrench clicks. Use for final tightening of intercooler mount bolts and piping clamps if torque specs are given. This prevents over- or under-tightening.
- Combination wrenches (open and box end)
- Description: Metric wrench set for holding nuts or bolts in tight spaces where socket can’t reach.
- How to use: Use box end for better grip on bolt heads, open end for quick turns. Hold the opposing nut while turning bolt.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: Standard and Phillips screwdrivers of medium size.
- How to use: Use for hose clamp screws, plastic clip removal, or sensor connectors. Use the correct head to avoid stripping.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint) and hose clamp pliers
- Description: Needle-nose for small clips, slip-joint for general gripping, hose clamp pliers for spring-style clamps.
- How to use: Compress spring clamps with hose clamp pliers to slide off hoses; use needle-nose to remove small cotter pins and connectors.
- Pry bar and plastic trim tools
- Description: Small pry bar and plastic trim removers for bumper and shroud clips.
- How to use: Gently pry plastic clips out; use plastic tools to avoid scratching trim.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 specialist)
- Description: Liquid to loosen seized/rusted bolts.
- How to use: Spray and let soak 5–15 minutes before attempting to break bolts loose.
- Hammer or rubber mallet
- Description: Rubber mallet for gentle persuasion; steel hammer only if necessary.
- How to use: Tap stuck parts loose — avoid hitting delicate cast or aluminum parts hard.
- Jack and jack stands; wheel chocks
- Description: Hydraulic floor jack and two stands rated for vehicle weight, plus chocks.
- How to use: Lift vehicle at proper jacking points, place stands and lower carefully. Chock rear wheels.
- Drain pan and rags
- Description: To catch coolant or oil and wipe spills.
- How to use: Place under drain plug or hoses to catch fluid when hoses are disconnected.
- Coolant catch and refill supplies
- Description: If top-mount intercooler uses coolant (on some models) or hoses are near coolant lines.
- How to use: Drain and refill cooling system per manual if you open any coolant pipe.
- Silicone couplers and hose clamps (new)
- Description: Flexible connectors between intercooler and piping; stainless T-bolt or worm-drive clamps.
- How to use: Slide couplers over pipe ends and tighten clamps evenly to create airtight seal. Replace old brittle couplers.
- Intercooler pressure tester (recommended, optional to buy/borrow)
- Description: Hand pump with gauge that pressurizes intake piping to find leaks.
- How to use: Pressurize to specified psi and listen/soak with soapy water to find leaks. Useful to confirm seals before driving.
- Replacement bolts, bushings, or mounting hardware (if original is corroded)
- Description: Always have spare M6–M10 bolts, lock washers, and rubber isolators.
- How to use: Replace corroded hardware to ensure secure mounting.
- Wire cutters and zip ties
- Description: For tidying hoses and securing sensor wires.
- How to use: Cut ties and use new zip ties to route hoses away from hot/exposed parts.

- Extra tools you may need and why
- Angle grinder or reciprocating saw (only if severely corroded bolts or aftermarket piping requires trimming)
- Why: To remove seized bolts or cut replacement piping. Use only as last resort.
- Air compressor and impact gun (optional)
- Why: Speeds removal of bolt clusters but can over-torque bolts — still finish with torque wrench.
- Intercooler core cleaner or ultrasonic cleaner (optional)
- Why: For deep cleaning of oil-soaked cores or internal blocking; otherwise replace if severely contaminated.
- Multimeter (optional)
- Why: To check sensor wiring if any sensor issues appear after reassembly.

- Parts that commonly need replacement and why
- Intercooler couplers and clamps
- Why: Rubber couplers get brittle and leak; clamps can rust or lose tension.
- What to replace with: Reinforced silicone couplers and stainless T-bolt clamps for better sealing and durability.
- Intercooler core (replace if leaking or very damaged)
- Why: Internal oil/water leaks or core damage cannot always be reliably repaired.
- What to replace with: OEM or quality aftermarket core sized for R32 fitment; consider FMIC upgrade if you want improved cooling.
- Mounting brackets and rubber isolators
- Why: Cracked isolators or bent brackets cause vibration and misalignment.
- What to replace with: New brackets or aftermarket mounts designed for R32.
- Piping (replace if dented, cracked, or too small)
- Why: Restricted or cracked piping leaks boost or creates turbulence.
- What to replace with: Mandrel-bent aluminum piping sized for your turbo setup; match coupler sizes.
- Hose clamps, bolts, washers
- Why: Corroded or stretched hardware fails to hold components securely.
- What to replace with: Stainless steel hardware.

- TMIC (top-mount) removal and installation — high-level steps
- Preparation and safety
- Disconnect battery negative terminal, chock wheels, let engine cool.
- Remove intake piping and cold pipe
- Loosen clamps on intake and charge piping using screwdriver or socket; remove hoses from intercooler outlets.
- Use penetrating oil on stubborn clamps; use pliers for spring clamps.
- Remove intercooler top shroud and piping
- Remove plastic shrouds and intercooler cover using screwdrivers and trim tools; keep fasteners labeled.
- Unbolt intercooler
- Support intercooler with one hand or small jack, remove mounting bolts with ratchet/socket. Use penetrating oil if bolts are seized.
- Use a torque wrench on reassembly to factory torque.
- Lift out intercooler
- Carefully lift straight up; be mindful of radiator fans and wiring. Place on clean surface.
- Inspect, clean or replace
- Check core for oil, bent fins, or cracks. Clean externally with soft brush and low-pressure water. Internally use a proper intercooler cleaner or replace if oil-soaked/leaking.
- Install replacement or re-install cleaned intercooler
- Position intercooler, tighten mounting bolts to spec with torque wrench, reattach shrouds and piping with new silicone couplers/clamps if available.
- Pressure-test piping (recommended) and check for leaks before driving.
- Reconnect battery and run test
- Start engine, visually inspect for leaks, recheck clamps after first heat cycle.

- FMIC (front-mount) removal and installation — high-level steps
- Preparation and safety
- Disconnect battery, chock wheels, lift car if required and secure on stands.
- Remove front bumper and associated trim
- Use plastic trim tools and screwdrivers to remove bumper cover, grille, and any splash shields. Keep fasteners organized.
- Drain and remove piping
- Loosen clamps, remove piping to intercooler. Use drain pan if coolant lines are near or intercooler drains.
- Unbolt intercooler from brackets
- Remove lower and upper mounting bolts and support intercooler while removing.
- Remove intercooler and check core and brackets
- Inspect piping, couplers, and mounts; clean or replace as needed.
- Fit new intercooler or reinstall cleaned one
- Attach to brackets, secure bolts with torque wrench, route piping so no kinks and adequate clearance from radiator and fans.
- Reassemble bumper, test for leaks and clearance
- Refit bumper and test-drive gently, then recheck clamp tightness and bolts.

- How to use the tools in context (practical tips)
- Ratchet and sockets: Use shorter handle for high-torque; use extensions for tight recessed bolts. Remove rust with penetrating oil then tap with hammer for shock to break rust bond.
- Torque wrench: Use for final tighten only; preload bolts by hand first then finish to torque spec.
- Pliers/hose clamp pliers: Compress spring clamps fully, slide off hose, don’t rip coupler—work around it.
- Pry bar/trim tools: Pry plastic clips straight up to avoid breaking them; use trim tools where possible.
- Jack and stands: Lift at recommended pinch weld or jack point, verify stability before going under.

- Leak testing and verification
- Use an intercooler pressure tester or hand pump to pressurize intake piping to ~15–20 psi (check safe pressure for your system) and check for leaks with soapy water.
- For TMIC with coolant lines, pressure-test cooling system per manual and check for coolant leaks.

- When to replace rather than repair
- Replace intercooler if core has visible cracks, persistent oil contamination internally, or bent fins that significantly restrict airflow.
- Replace pipework or couplers if cracking, splitting, or cannot hold boost pressure after tightening.
- Replace mounting hardware if corroded or if rubber insulators are failing.

- Final checks before driving
- Recheck all clamps and bolts after first run and after a short test drive.
- Watch for boost leaks (loss of power, hissing) and coolant leaks (puddles, rising temperature).
- Re-torque as necessary per factory manual schedule.

- Quick parts checklist to have before starting
- New silicone couplers and stainless clamps
- Replacement bolts and rubber isolators
- New intercooler (if replacing)
- Penetrating oil, rags, drain pan
- Torque wrench and basic socket set

- Short troubleshooting notes
- If you hear boost hissing: check couplers and clamps for leaks.
- If engine runs hot after TMIC re-install: check coolant lines and bleed air from cooling system.
- If you see oil inside intercooler: turbo oil seal failure may be present — inspect turbo and consider professional diagnosis.

- Final note
- Follow factory torque specs and vacuum/boost testing procedures in the service manual. If heavy corrosion, internal leaks, or turbo issues are suspected, consider professional help.


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Quick overview — what you’re doing and why
- Transmission fluid flush = replacing dirty/old fluid and filter (if applicable) so the gearbox can make hydraulic pressure, cool itself, lubricate and protect clutches/gears. Think of ATF/gear oil as the transmission’s blood: it carries pressure and removes heat; the filter is the kidney. Over time fluid breaks down, gets contaminated with metal particles and clutch material, and stops doing its job → slipping, rough shifting, overheating and accelerated wear. A “drain-and-fill” replaces only part of the fluid; a true “full flush” replaces nearly all fluid including torque converter fluid and requires pumping through the cooler lines or a machine.

Which R32 transmission types and differences
- Manual (5-speed, common in many R32s and GT-Rs): uses gear oil (usually GL‑4 spec). No internal filter; drain plug and fill plug on the case.
- Automatic (4-speed in many R32s): uses ATF, has pan + internal filter, torque converter and cooler lines. There’s a drain on the pan (sometimes no dedicated drain, only pan bolts) and a fluid level/dipstick or fill plug; full flush requires external pumping through cooler lines to clear torque converter.

Tools, materials & PPE
- Basic tools: floor jack + jack stands or a lift, wheel chocks, gloves, safety glasses, drip tray.
- Sockets and wrenches, extension, torque wrench.
- Flat/Phillips screwdrivers, gasket scraper, clean rags/parts cleaner.
- Funnel and long-neck pump or hand pump for ATF if doing full flush.
- Container for used fluid (sealed), disposal bags, absorbent pads.
- New pan gasket and filter (automatic). Replacement drain plug crush washer if used.
- Manufacturer-recommended fluid: check the R32 service manual or transmission tag. Typical guidance:
- Manual: 75W-90 (GL‑4) gear oil or the spec listed in manual.
- Automatic: Nissan-approved ATF (often sold as “Nissan Matic” — check exact spec for your year/engine; many older Nissans used Matic J/S or equivalent Dexron-type ATF). If unsure, verify before starting.
- New transmission filter (automatic), replacement pan bolts if corroded, RTV gasket if required.
- Torque specs — consult the factory service manual for exact numbers (do not guess).

System components — what they are and what they do
- Transmission case/housing: the shell containing gears/hydraulic parts.
- Input/output shafts: bring engine power in and out to driveshafts.
- Gears and synchros (manual): move power; oil lubricates them and synchros rely on proper oil friction properties.
- Clutches/planetary sets & bands (automatic): perform gear changes using hydraulic pressure applied to clutch packs.
- Pump (automatic): driven by engine to create hydraulic pressure — the pumped ATF is the hydraulic medium.
- Torque converter (automatic): fluid coupling between engine and transmission that multiplies torque and allows slippage at idle.
- Valve body (automatic): directs fluid to clutches and bands to change gears.
- Solenoids (automatic): electrical valves that modulate hydraulic flow for shifts.
- Filter (automatic): traps particles, prevents blockages.
- Pan and screen/magnets (automatic): pan holds fluid lower in case; magnets collect metal particles.
- Cooler lines and external cooler/radiator: move ATF through the cooler to reject heat.
- Dipstick/fill tube or fill plug: for checking/filling level.

High-level theory — why a flush matters
- ATF functions as hydraulic fluid, lubricant, heat-transfer medium, and clutch friction modifier. Heat and shear break down additives and cause oxidation; clutches and gear teeth shed particles. Dirty or burnt fluid lowers friction control, clogs passages, reduces hydraulic pressure, and causes shifting problems and wear. Replacing fluid and filter maintains pressure, cooling and friction characteristics so the transmission shifts cleanly and lasts longer.

Safety and general cautions (don’t skip)
- Work on a level surface. Use quality jack stands; never rely on the jack alone.
- Engine/transmission will be hot. Let the car cool a bit but warm fluid flows better — aim for warm but not scalding.
- Do not run engine with pan removed.
- Have fire extinguisher nearby if working hot or with rags/solvent.
- Capture used fluid and dispose per local regs.
- If in doubt about torque specs, clearances, or electrical connectors, consult the factory manual.

Step-by-step: Drain-and-fill (simpler, partial replacement)
This replaces the fluid in the pan and some in the torque converter/case — usually 30–50% of total fluid.

1) Prep:
- Park on level surface, chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Warm engine gently by idling 5–10 minutes so fluid flows easier; do not overheat.
- Lift car and support on stands.

2) Locate and access:
- Automatic: find transmission pan under car; locate drain plug (if present) or plan to loosen pan bolts to drain.
- Manual: find lower drain plug and the fill plug (you must open fill plug first).

3) Safety step — open fill plug first:
- For both types, open the fill/dipstick or fill plug before draining so you confirm you can refill later. This avoids a scenario where you can’t put fluid back in.

4) Drain:
- Place drain pan under drain plug/pan. Remove drain plug and allow fluid to drain. If no drain plug, loosen a corner bolt slowly and let fluid run into pan, then remove pan bolts.
- For automatics: loosen bolts in a pattern and lower the pan carefully. Expect more fluid to run when pan drops. Catch any filter access.
- After draining, inspect pan and magnet(s) for metal flakes. Small fine powder is normal; large chunks or lots of heavy metal indicates internal wear.

5) Filter & pan cleaning (automatic only):
- Remove and discard old filter. Clean pan thoroughly. Remove sludge/gasket material. Clean magnets; note the color and amount of metal—bronze/copper bits indicate clutch wear; steel indicates bearing/gear wear.

6) Replace gasket & filter:
- Fit new filter and new pan gasket (or apply appropriate RTV if specified). Torque pan bolts to factory spec in a crisscross pattern to avoid distortion.

7) Reinstall drain plug with new crush washer if used and torque to spec.

8) Refill:
- Use a funnel to add specified fluid through dipstick tube or fill plug until you reach the specified volume for a drain-and-fill (see manual or add measured bottles; do not overfill).
- For automatics: start the engine, cycle the shifter through all gear positions, then return to Park with engine idling and check fluid level at operating temperature (follow temp and selector position specified in the manual). Add small amounts until level is correct.
- For manuals: level check with engine off, on flat surface; fill to bottom of fill hole.

9) Test drive & final check:
- Drive gently to bring trans to operating temp. Recheck fluid level and top as necessary. Inspect for leaks. Re-torque bolts if the manual requires a recheck after warm.

Step-by-step: Full flush (replaces nearly all fluid — recommended if fluid is very dark or smells burnt)
- Full flush is more involved because torque converter and cooler lines retain fluid.
- Two common methods: pressure/fluid exchange machine, or hand-pump method via cooler lines.

Machine method (best):
- Connect machine inline with cooler lines per machine instructions; run engine and use machine to pump new fluid through while old fluid is captured. Continue until clear fluid flows from return.
- Monitor level and do not run dry.

Hand-pump method (DIY, more risky):
- Securely lift car. Locate cooler lines at the radiator/trans cooler connection (return line). Disconnect return line (cooler → trans) and run that line into a container.
- Use a clean hand pump or suction pump to push new fluid into the transmission via the fill tube or cooler feed line, while engine is running at idle with the parking brake on so the pump inside trans circulates and pushes old fluid out that disconnected return line.
- Add new fluid slowly as old fluid runs out until clear new fluid flows. Keep an eye on fluid level; don’t let trans run low while pump forces fluid through.
- Reconnect cooler line, start engine, cycle gears, check level and temperature per manual.
CAUTION: This method can introduce air or run the pump dry if done incorrectly. It’s safer to use a professional machine or have a shop do this.

Fluid quantities (approximate — verify with manual)
- Manual transmissions: commonly 2–3 liters.
- Automatic transmissions: drain-and-fill might replace 3–4 liters; full fill (including converter) can be 8–12 liters depending on gearbox. Verify exact capacity for your R32 variant.

What to inspect while you’re in there
- Amount and color of metal on pan magnet: light gray dust is normal; lots of copper/bronze indicates clutch wear; big steel chunks indicate severe damage.
- Condition of filter: clogged/dark filter = neglected service.
- Pan and gasket condition for leaks/corrosion.
- Cooler lines for corrosion, kinks or blockages.
- Seals around driveshafts and axle boots — leaks can contaminate trans fluid in some designs.

Common problems and how to avoid them
- Overfill: causes foaming, erratic shifts, overheating. Remedy: correct to specified level at temperature.
- Underfill: low pressure, overheating, slipping. Remedy: don’t let reservoir run low while pumping; verify level properly.
- Wrong fluid type: catastrophic for clutch friction materials and hydraulic characteristics. Remedy: confirm manufacturer spec.
- Not replacing filter/gasket: bypasses the point of the job; contaminants remain.
- Cross-threaded fill/drain plug or stripped threads: be careful; use correct sized tools and torque.
- Running engine with pan removed: destroys pump and pulls contaminants — never do it.
- Not checking for leaks after reassembly: check and re-torque as required.
- For DIY full flush via cooler lines: introducing air, overheating, or not catching returned fluid — perform slowly and cautiously.

Signs you need more than a flush
- Big metal chunks in pan, severe grinding noises, inability to hold gears, catastrophic slipping — these indicate internal failure and need diagnosis/repair (clutch packs, bands, bearings).
- Electronic solenoid faults or fault codes — may need valve body or solenoid replacement and electrical diagnosis.

Post-service checks and break-in
- After service, test drive through all gears under light load, then re-check level and for leaks.
- Monitor shifting for the next several hundred miles. Some new clutches/bands may need a short break-in period but modern ATF and fluids reduce this.

Disposal and environmental notes
- Used ATF and gear oil must be disposed of at a recycling center or hazardous waste facility. Don’t pour on ground or into drains.

Final tips (practical & beginner-friendly)
- Always open the fill plug before you drain.
- Keep everything clean — contamination kills transmissions.
- Buy a new filter and gasket; they’re cheap insurance.
- If you see worrying metal or smell burnt fluid, stop and consult a transmission specialist before re-using the car aggressively.
- If you want a true full exchange and don’t have a pump or machine, consider paying a shop to do the full flush — it’s worth avoiding the risks.

That covers the how, the why, the parts involved and the pitfalls. Follow the factory manual for exact fill capacities, torque specs and temperature/position for checking fluid level for your exact R32 model and transmission.
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