Tools & supplies
- Floor jack + 2 matching rated jack stands, wheel chocks
- Lug wrench / breaker bar for lug nuts
- Socket set (metric): 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 22 mm commonly used on Nissan of this era (verify exact sizes for your car)
- Deep sockets and wobble extension
- Ratchet, breaker bar, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
- Torque wrench (range to at least 100 ft·lb)
- Box-end wrenches matching socket sizes
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil)
- Hammer, pry bar
- Ball-joint / tie-rod separator or 2–3‑jaw puller (for some end links)
- Wire or strap to hang sway bar
- Silicone grease or bushing grease (for rubber) or manufacturer recommended grease for polyurethane
- Anti-seize and blue threadlocker (Loctite 243)
- Safety glasses, gloves
- Wire brush, rags
- (Optional) small butane/propane torch for stuck bolts — use with caution

Safety first
- Work on level ground, engine off, parking brake set, wheels chocked.
- Use jack stands under rated points—never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- If heating bolts with a torch, beware fuel lines, brake lines, and rubber components; keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Parts usually required
- Sway (anti-roll) bar bushings (rubber or polyurethane) — replace when cracked or hard
- End links (often a wear item; replace if ball joints or bushings are worn)
- Bushing brackets/clamps (if corroded or damaged)
- Mounting bolts/nuts (replace if stretched or damaged). Use OEM or grade-equivalent fasteners.
- Sway bar itself only if bent/cracked.

Notes about VG30E / KA24E vehicles
- The anti-roll bar mounting layout is the same general procedure front and rear. Fastener sizes and torque specs vary by chassis (S13, S14, D21, etc.). Always confirm torque specs in the vehicle service manual. Typical bolt sizes on older Nissans are 12–19 mm.

Step-by-step: removal (front or rear)
1) Preparation
- Loosen lug nuts slightly with wheels on ground.
- Chock rear wheels (if working front) or front (if working rear).
- Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and secure on jack stands at manufacturer lift points. Remove wheel(s).

2) Access & inspection
- Inspect sway bar, end links, bushing brackets. Spray penetrating oil on all nuts/bolts (end links and bracket bolts). Let soak 5–15 minutes.
- If space tight, remove any heat shields or splash pans that block access.

3) Support suspension
- Place a jack under the lower control arm or subframe to support it and to remove tension on the end links. For rear, support axle or trailing arm as needed. You want the suspension neither fully drooped nor fully compressed—approx mid-travel works.

4) Remove end links
- Locate the end link top/bottom nuts. Use a wrench to hold the stud and a socket on the nut. Break the nut free with a breaker bar if needed.
- Some end links use a through-bolt with a stud that must be held with an Allen key or hex while undoing the nut. Others use ball joints that require a puller/separator. If the stud spins, insert an Allen key (if provided) or use a hex bit to hold it.
- If seized, apply more penetrating oil, tap the bolt head, heat briefly if safe. Use a ball-joint separator if the tapered joint is stuck.

5) Remove bushing bracket bolts
- There are typically two bracket bolts per bushing. Remove both. Hold the bar so it cannot drop unexpectedly—use a wire strap or have an assistant hold it.
- On heavily corroded brackets you may need to cut or grind bolts if they’re frozen; replace bolts and probably brackets.

6) Remove sway bar
- With end links and brackets removed, lower the sway bar out of the vehicle. Feed it out carefully around control arms, steering components, exhaust. Note orientation and which side is forward—mark if necessary.

Step-by-step: installation
7) Transfer or install new bushings
- If reusing the bar, clean it with wire brush and degreaser where bushings seat.
- Split-style bushings: open the slit and slip over the bar at the bracket locations. Polyurethane bushings may be thicker—use the correct inside diameter.
- Lubricate rubber or poly bushings with silicone-based grease (do not use petroleum grease on rubber). Skip grease only if manufacturer advises dry.

8) Position bar and loosely fit brackets
- Place the bar into position under vehicle, align bushing with bracket holes. Install brackets and start bolts by hand. Do not tighten fully now.
- Connect end links to sway bar and control arm/subframe—start nuts by hand. If end links are new and longer/shorter, verify orientation (some are directional with a tapered seat).

9) Set suspension/load for correct bushing preload
- Important: Many manufacturers require bushing bracket bolts to be torqued with the vehicle at normal ride height (suspension loaded) to prevent bushing pre-load and binding.
- Two ways:
a) Lower vehicle onto wheels and torque bolts to spec.
b) If vehicle must remain on stands, use a jack under the control arm and load it to achieve normal ride height, then torque.
- If no specific instruction, torque brackets with vehicle weight on suspension to avoid binding.

10) Torquing sequence & final tightening
- Tighten end link nuts to spec (or to the general range below), then torque bracket bolts to spec. If using threadlocker, use small amount on bolts indicated in manual.
- Typical torque ranges (verify in service manual):
- End link nut: 35–70 ft·lb (45–95 N·m) depending on link design
- Bushing bracket bolts: 20–45 ft·lb (27–60 N·m)
- Torque lug nuts to factory spec after wheels are on.

11) Reassembly & test
- Reinstall wheels, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec.
- Test drive at low speed over bumps; listen for clunks/squeaks.
- Re-torque bracket and end-link bolts after a short test drive (manufacturers sometimes call for re-torque after 50–100 miles).

How each tool is used (common examples)
- Floor jack & jack stands: lift and support the vehicle; position stands at factory points; lower car onto stands.
- Breaker bar: provide extra leverage to break seized nuts (use penetrating oil first).
- Torque wrench: final torque of bracket and link nuts to specified values—critical to prevent over- or under-tightening.
- Ball-joint separator / puller: separate pressed-in end link ball joints from control arm without damaging taper.
- Penetrating oil + heat: free frozen nuts. Heat expands metal and breaks corrosion; use heat cautiously (no flame near fuel).
- Wire/strap: hold sway bar in place while removing brackets so it doesn’t drop or damage components.
- Hammer / pry bar: gently pry bar out of place if it’s under preload; don’t pry on bushings directly.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Seized bolts: hit with penetrating oil early; don’t round heads—use correct socket size; heat if safe; cut and replace if necessary.
- Preloading bushings: torquing brackets with suspension unloaded causes bushing bind and noise. Torque with vehicle on ground or suspension at ride height.
- Reusing worn end links/bushings: they commonly wear—replace both links and bushings as a set if questionable.
- Cross-threading bolts: start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading in aluminum brackets/subframe.
- Using wrong grease: petroleum oils will swell/destroy rubber bushings—use silicone or bushing-specific grease.
- Torque guesswork: improper torque can lead to loss of handling or broken hardware—use a torque wrench and factory specs.
- Not replacing hardware: corroded bolts can be brittle—replace if any doubt.

When to replace the sway bar itself
- Replace if bent, cracked, or heavily corroded in critical areas. If end links and bushings are new but there’s persistent clunking, inspect bar for cracks or worn pivot area.

Quick troubleshooting after install
- Squeak from bushings: add proper grease or check bushing orientation; poly bushings often squeak unless greased.
- Clunk when hitting bumps: check end link tightness, bushing bracket torque, and ensure end links aren’t binding at an angle.
- Pull to one side / abnormal handling: confirm end links installed symmetrically and that suspension alignment is unchanged; alignment should be checked if any suspension components were disconnected.

Final note
- Exact bolt sizes and torque specs vary by model and year. Use the factory service manual for your specific Nissan chassis for final torque numbers and any model-specific steps. If bolts are severely corroded or stud-type end links are frozen, plan to replace them and have replacement fasteners on hand.
rteeqp73

Ka24e turbo hardbody

Nissan Hardbody KA24 Thrush Glasspack

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