Ordered, concise explanation — theory + stepwise process and why each action fixes the fault. Covers front MacPherson struts on the T31 (the rear on T31 is a separate shock and coil in most variants; rear procedure differs).

Theory — what a strut does and how it fails
- Function: a MacPherson strut combines a damper (hydraulic shock absorber), a coil spring, and a top mount/bearing into a single structural assembly that locates the wheel laterally/vertically and controls suspension motion. The damper dissipates kinetic energy (controls oscillation), the spring carries vehicle weight, and the mount/bearing transmits steering inputs and isolates noise.
- Failure modes:
- Hydraulic leak or internal wear → reduced damping → excessive bouncing, poor body control, nose-dive under braking.
- Collapsed/weak spring or sagging ride height → reduced ground clearance, altered geometry.
- Worn top mount/bearing → clunking, steering roughness, uneven tyre wear.
- Physical damage/corrosion → loss of structural integrity, play in wheel location.
- How replacement fixes it: a new strut restores controlled energy dissipation (damping), correct spring preload/ride height, secure wheel location and proper top-mount function. That eliminates excessive oscillation, reduces those noises, restores predictable steering/braking behavior and reduces abnormal tyre wear. If geometry changed, alignment is still required after replacement.

Diagnosis (brief)
- Bounce test: one hand on fender, push down and release; >2-3 oscillations = weak damping.
- Visual: oil on strut body, damaged dust boot, broken spring, loose top mount.
- Road symptoms: excessive roll, dive, rear/thrust instability, clunking over bumps, uneven tyre wear.

Preparation — parts & tools (minimum)
- Parts: correct front strut assemblies (or cartridges), new top mounts/bearings, dust boots, bump stops, new lower/upper nuts/bolts if corroded.
- Tools: jack and stands, wheel chocks, socket set, breaker bar, torque wrench, spring compressor (bench-style), screwdriver/pry, penetrating fluid, possibly ball joint separator and Allen or hex for strut shaft hold.
- Safety: always support vehicle on stands, use a proper spring compressor when disassembling a strut. Do not rely on the jack.

Step‑by‑step order with reasons (front strut)
1. Prep and safety
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel nuts slightly. Reason: safety & easier removal when lifted.
2. Lift vehicle and remove wheel
- Jack, support on stands at designated points, remove wheel. Reason: access to strut and suspension components.
3. Inspect and free attachments
- Remove brake hose/ABS sensor brackets from strut, disconnect stabilizer (sway bar) link from strut, unclip any speed sensor/brake line retainers. Reason: prevent tension/damage when strut swings out.
4. Loosen lower strut-to-knuckle bolts (do not fully remove yet)
- Break nuts/bolts free while suspension is unloaded but before knuckle is supported. Reason: easier to undo and safer than trying to leverage bolts when suspended.
5. Support the steering knuckle/arm
- Use a jack or strap to hold the knuckle so it won’t drop when strut is released. Reason: prevent brake lines/ball joints from being overstressed and keep alignment.
6. Remove top mount nuts (engine bay)
- Open hood, remove the strut top nuts to free the strut from the body. Keep nuts accessible. Reason: disconnect the top so entire strut can be removed downward.
7. Remove lower bolts and extract strut assembly
- Remove lower bolts, lower the knuckle slightly and pull the strut assembly out downward. Reason: whole strut comes out as one piece; preserves spring preload until disassembly on bench.
8. Compress the spring on a bench compressor
- Secure strut in vise (soft jaws) if needed, compress spring evenly, remove top nut while holding strut shaft steady (use correct hex/holding tool). Reason: only safe way to remove preload from spring; prevents violent release.
9. Disassemble and inspect components
- Remove top mount, bearing, dust boot, bump stop. Inspect spring, strut body, piston rod for scoring, oil weep. Reason: replace worn parts; dust and bump stop protect strut.
10. Replace damper or whole assembly and fit new mounts
- If using cartridge rebuild or new strut, install dust boot, bump stop, spring, top mount and tighten top nut to spec while spring is compressed. Replace bearing if worn. Reason: recreate assembled strut with correct preload and secure top mount.
11. Decompress spring gradually and verify seating
- Ensure spring seats on upper/lower isolators and the bearing rotates smoothly. Reason: correct seating prevents noise and ensures proper preload.
12. Reinstall strut assembly into vehicle
- Insert strut up into tower, start top nuts by hand (do not fully torque yet). Align strut lower eye with knuckle and fit lower bolts but do not final-torque. Reattach sway bar link, brake hose bracket, ABS sensor bracket. Reason: allows small movement to settle and prevents preloading of bushings.
13. Lower vehicle to normal ride height (or at least let suspension bear weight) before final torquing
- With wheels installed and vehicle lowered until tires contact ground (no full vehicle weight necessary, best to set on ground), torque lower bolts and top nuts to factory specs. Reason: torquing suspension fasteners with vehicle loaded sets bushings and geometry correctly and prevents preloading that can cause noises or premature wear.
14. Final checks
- Ensure all clips/lines cleared, torque wheel nuts, test-ride at low speed listening for noises. Reason: verify installation integrity.
15. Wheel alignment
- Have a full 4-wheel alignment performed after replacement. Reason: strut replacement changes camber/caster and toe; alignment restores proper tyre wear and handling.

Rear note
- Many T31 rears use separate coil and damper. Replacement procedure for rear shock is different (remove lower and upper bolts, swap shock) and typically does not require a spring compressor. Rear top mount/bushing replacement may require partial trim in wheel arch access.

Why each repair action fixes the fault (concise)
- Replacing the damper: restores hydraulic damping so oscillations are controlled and the car stops bouncing after hits or braking.
- Replacing spring or correcting preload: restores ride height and corrects suspension geometry that affects handling and tyre wear.
- Replacing top mount/bearing: eliminates clunks, steering roughness and allows smooth steering rotation (bearing).
- Replacing dust boot/bump stop: protects the new damper from contaminants and prevents bottoming damage.
- Correct torquing at ride height and subsequent alignment: ensures bushings and joints are at correct operating angles so the suspension behaves as designed.

Safety and quality tips (brief)
- Use a certified spring compressor — bench compressors clamp the spring ends. Do not use open-coil compressors that slip.
- Replace worn mounts and boots with strut replacement.
- Replace struts in axle pairs (both fronts) to keep balanced handling.
- Always get a professional alignment after replacement.
- Follow factory torque specs from the Nissan workshop manual for nuts/bolts and torque the top nuts with the car at normal ride height when specified.

That’s the ordered theory-first procedure and the reasoning for how the repair corrects the fault.
rteeqp73

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