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Nissan X-Trail T-31 2007-2013 factory workshop and repair manual download

Below is a clear, practical beginner‑level guide to inspecting, removing and replacing the major hoses on a Nissan X‑Trail T31 (2007–2013). I cover what each hose and related component is, how the cooling and vacuum systems work (the “why”), how to do the job step‑by‑step, what tools and parts you’ll need, and the common failure modes and troubleshooting. No fluff.

OVERVIEW / ANALOGY
- Think of the cooling system as a closed, pressurized plumbing loop that carries coolant (the “blood”) around the engine (the “body”) to absorb heat and dump it at the radiator (the “lungs”). Hoses are the flexible pipes/arteries carrying the fluid. Clamps are the belt buckles that keep the hoses attached to fittings; if a hose or clamp fails, coolant escapes and the engine overheats.
- Vacuum hoses are like small straw lines feeding vacuum pressure from the intake to things that need it (brake booster, EVAP, sensors). A leak is like a hole in a straw—pressure changes and devices stop working properly.

COMPONENTS (what you’ll see and replace)
Cooling system hoses:
- Upper radiator hose: from the top of the radiator to the thermostat housing (upper intake area).
- Lower radiator hose: from the radiator bottom to the water‑pump inlet.
- Bypass hose(s): small hoses that let coolant circulate around the thermostat when closed; commonly between thermostat housing and intake or cylinder head.
- Heater hoses: two hoses from the engine (usually passenger‑side rear) through the firewall to the heater core (inside the heater box).
- Overflow/expansion hose: small hose from radiator/pressure cap area to the coolant reservoir.
- Hose fittings/pipe nipples: molded metal or plastic pieces on engine, radiator, heater core where hoses seat.
- Clamps: spring (constant tension) or worm‑drive (screw) clamps; OEM often uses spring clamps in many places.
- Radiator, thermostat, water pump, coolant reservoir and radiator cap: part of the cooling system and interact with hoses.

Vacuum/PCV/fuel hoses:
- Brake booster vacuum hose: firewall to intake manifold.
- PCV hose(s): valve cover to intake (positive crankcase ventilation).
- EVAP purge line: intake side to purge solenoid (in engine bay).
- Sensor vacuum lines: little hoses to MAP, wastegate (if turbo), actuators.
- Hose connectors, T‑pieces, check valves, solenoids.

WHY THIS REPAIR IS NEEDED / THEORY
- Cooling hoses carry hot coolant under pressure and heat/chemical exposure. Over time they degrade: rubber hardens, swells, softens, cracks, or becomes porous. Oil contamination accelerates failure. A failed hose causes coolant loss and can lead to overheating, head gasket failure, warped heads, seized engine.
- Clamps can corrode or lose tension; a loose clamp leaks at the fitting even with a good hose.
- Vacuum hoses crack or detach causing unmetered air into the intake—symptoms: rough idle, high idle, poor acceleration, check‑engine light, hard brake pedal (if brake booster line).
- Replacing hoses is preventative maintenance and can cure leaks, overheating, and drivetrain issues caused by air ingress.

TOOLS & PARTS
Tools:
- Safety: nitrile gloves, safety glasses.
- Drain pan (large).
- Basic metric socket set and ratchet (8–19 mm).
- Flat and Phillips screwdrivers.
- Pliers: spring‑clamp pliers, diagonal cutters, channel locks.
- Hose pick tool or small pry tool (plastic recommended).
- Jack and stands (optional) to raise front for access (use ramps or stands).
- Funnel, turkey baster or pump for coolant transfer (optional).
- Flashlight, camera/phone to document hose routing.

Parts & supplies:
- Replacement hoses (OEM or quality aftermarket) — buy preformed hoses for the model/year/engine (MR20DE / QR25DE variations). Replace both ends if one is bad.
- New clamps (prefer spring clamps or correct size worm clamps). Replace old clamps—they’re cheap.
- Correct coolant: use Nissan‑recommended long‑life antifreeze or equivalent (check owner’s manual). Pre‑diluted 50/50 mix is common.
- New radiator cap if old or brittle.
- Rags, coolant catch tray, biodegradable coolant disposal method.

INSPECT FIRST (what to look for)
- Visual: soft spots, bulges, splits, glue‑like residue (dried coolant), white crust or greenish deposits at joints.
- Squeeze test (cold): hose should be firm but not rock hard. Soft and spongy = rot; very hard = perished inside.
- Look for oil contamination (black greasy film). Oil causes hoses to swell and fail.
- Clamp location: clamps should be 5–10 mm from hose end and on the hose bead if radiator has one.
- For vacuum hoses: look for cracks, brittleness, missing check valves, disconnected lines or taped repairs.

STEP‑BY‑STEP: REPLACING COOLANT HOSES (upper/lower/heater/bypass)
Time: ~1–2 hours for someone careful; longer if rusty clamps or hard access.

Safety steps:
- Work on a cold engine. Never open the radiator cap or overflow when hot—scalding risk.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, disconnect negative battery post if you’ll be near sensors or fan circuits.

1) Preparation
- Have new hoses and clamps ready. Place drain pan under radiator drain petcock.
- Note hose routing and orientation. Take photos for reassembly.

2) Drain coolant
- Open radiator drain cock (petcock) at bottom (usually passenger side). If no petcock, carefully loosen the lower hose and let it drain into pan (have catch ready). Remove radiator cap or reservoir cap only when cold.
- If you plan to reuse coolant, syphon into clean container (only if new hoses free of oil/contamination).

3) Remove clamps & hoses
- Use spring clamp pliers to open OEM spring clamps and slide back over hose. For worm clamps, loosen screw enough to move clamp away.
- Twist the hose gently on the fitting to break seal; hold the fitting and pull hose off. Use hose‑pick or plastic pry if stubborn—don’t pry on aluminum threads or plastic fittings.
- For heater hoses, they pass through firewall—pull hose ends out and remove from engine bay.
- If removing lower hose, you may need to jack the car and remove splash shield for access.

4) Inspect fittings
- Look at the metal or plastic nipples for cracks, corrosion or broken beads. Replace part if damaged.
- Clean nipple with a rag to remove residue.

5) Install new hoses
- Compare new hoses to old for length and bend direction. Lubricate inside end lightly with coolant (not oil) or a bit of soapy water to ease fitting.
- Position clamp on hose before pushing hose onto fitting. Push hose fully onto nipple until it hits the bead or shoulder.
- Position clamp 2–5 mm from hose end covering the nipple area; for worm clamps, tighten until snug but do not over‑torque. For spring clamps, compress and slide over bead until seated.
- For plastic radiator fittings, avoid overtightening worm clamps—use spring clamps where possible.

6) Refill coolant
- Close radiator drain. Refill radiator with 50/50 coolant mix or pre‑mixed as specified. Fill reservoir to max line.
- Leave radiator cap off for bleeding (if system allows) and start engine on block with heater set to full hot and fan on low to help circulate through heater core.
- Run until thermostat opens (temperature rises and upper hose gets hot), watch for bubbles — top up as bubbles escape.
- Some Nissan engines have a bleed valve near thermostat housing—open it briefly to release trapped air if present.
- When no more bubbles, put cap on reservoir, let engine cool, recheck coolant level, and top to correct level.

7) Test & recheck
- Run engine to operating temperature with hood open and check for leaks at each hose/clamp.
- Check after a short drive and again after a day. Re‑tighten clamps if needed (cold). Replace coolant cap if it’s leaking.

STEP‑BY‑STEP: REPLACING/INSPECTING VACUUM & PCV HOSES
Symptoms of vacuum issues: rough idle, check engine light (MAF/MAP related), hard brake pedal (if booster hose leak), hesitation.

1) Inspect lines visually and by touch. Replace any brittle, collapsed or cracked hose.
2) Trace hoses from intake manifold to components (brake booster, PCV on valve cover, purge solenoid). Take photos.
3) Remove clamps or connectors; many are push‑on quick‑disconnects—depress tab and pull.
4) Replace with correct inside diameter vacuum hose (usually small 4–8 mm). Use short lengths and proper elbows where needed.
5) Reinstall check valves and solenoids in correct orientation (arrow/markings indicate flow direction).
6) Test: start engine and listen for hissing; use a smoke machine or propane (careful) to find leaks; carb cleaner spray can reveal idle change if sprayed near leaking area.

COMMON THINGS THAT CAN GO WRONG & TROUBLESHOOTING
- After replacement coolant leaks: Clamp not seated over nipple, clamp too loose, hose not fully seated, cracked plastic nipple, wrong hose orientation causing stress at fittings. Fix: drain small amount, reposition hose/clamp, retighten.
- Overtightened worm clamp cuts hose or cracks plastic fittings: Replace hose/fitting and use correct clamp type/size.
- Airlocked system / engine continues to overheat after hose replacement: Air trapped in system. Bleed via bleed screw, heater on full, run until thermostat opens and bubbles stop. Raise front on ramps to help air escape from top.
- Persistent vacuum leak: check check‑valves orientation, ensure PCV valve seated, inspect intake manifold gasket area, use smoke test.
- Soft bulging hose near clamp: hose internal failure (delamination) — replace hose and clamp.
- Heater not blowing hot air after hose replacement: heater core air trapped—bleed system and ensure heater control valve (if present) operates; heater hoses plugged or reversed.
- New hoses rubbing against moving parts or hot exhaust: re‑route or install protective sleeve to prevent premature wear.

TIPS & BEST PRACTICES
- Replace the pair: when replacing upper hose, consider replacing lower and heater hoses if they’re the same age.
- Use new clamps—spring clamps maintain tension as hoses age and are simple to fit.
- Mark hose routing with paint or take photos before removal.
- Avoid reusing old coolant if contaminated with oil—always dispose properly.
- Keep an eye on the radiator cap and reservoir tank—bad caps cause pressure problems and boilover.
- Don’t overtighten worm clamps on plastic nipples—use a torque feel: snug until clamp compresses hose but not so hard it slices.
- After repairs, recheck after 24 hours or 50 km for leaks and coolant level.

SAFETY & ENVIRONMENT
- Never open a hot cooling system. Coolant is toxic; clean spills and dispose of old coolant per local regulations.
- Use eye protection when working under vehicle or near pressurized systems.
- Avoid open flames when using cleaning sprays or working with coolant.

FINAL QUICK CHECKLIST (after job)
- All hoses seated fully, clamps in correct position and tightened properly.
- Coolant filled to proper level, no air pockets (heater hot, no bubbles).
- No visible leaks with engine at operating temp.
- Vacuum lines secure, check‑valves oriented correctly, idle stable.
- Test drive and recheck coolant level and hoses/clamps.

That’s the complete practical guide for inspecting and replacing the main hoses on a Nissan X‑Trail T31. Follow the steps carefully, take pictures of hose routing before removal, replace clamps and bad fittings, and bleed the system thoroughly.
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