Tools & supplies
- Floor jack + 2 quality jack stands, wheel chocks
- Impact gun (or breaker bar) with 3/8" & 1/2" drive sockets, extensions
- Torque wrench (range to 200 Nm)
- Spring compressor (suitable for MacPherson strut springs)
- Ball-joint/tie-rod puller or pickle fork
- Pry bar, hammer, punch
- Hex/Allen/Torx set, combination wrenches
- Long breaker bar (for seized bolts)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar), wire brush
- Caliper hanger or bungee cord
- Drain pan, rags, gloves, eye protection
- New parts: strut cartridge or complete strut assembly (recommended), top mount/bearing, dust boot, bump stop, stabilizer link(s), ball joints/control-arm bushings if worn, replacement bolts/nuts (some are torque-to-yield)
- Anti-seize and medium-strength thread locker
- Shop manual or factory torque specs (always verify model-specific values)
- Wheel alignment afterward (or plan to take car to alignment shop)

Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock opposite wheels. Never rely on the jack alone — always use jack stands.
- Use safety glasses and gloves. Spring compressors store a lot of energy — inspect compressor, hook on evenly, compress slowly and evenly. If a spring compressor looks damaged, do not use it.
- Disconnect the battery if you will be removing sensors or working close to wiring.
- When heating bolts, be careful of nearby rubber/plastic parts and fuel/vapor lines.

Overview: T31 X‑Trail suspension
- Front: MacPherson strut assembly (strut + coil spring). Typical service items: strut cartridge/complete strut, top mount/bearing, dust boot, bump stop, sway bar link, lower ball joint/tie rod.
- Rear: multi‑link with separate coil spring and shock absorber (rear spring removal may require lowering control arms).

Front strut replacement — step-by-step
1. Preparation
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly on the ground.
- Raise vehicle with floor jack and place on jack stands under recommended lift points. Remove front wheel.
- Inspect brake hoses, ABS wires, note routing and retainers.

2. Remove interfering components
- Remove or hang brake caliper using a caliper hanger/bungee; do not let it hang by the hose.
- Remove brake rotor if it obstructs access (not always necessary).
- Disconnect sway bar end link from the strut (usually a nut at top of link). Use penetrating oil if seized.
- Disconnect ABS sensor bracket, brake hose bracket from strut/knuckle.
- Loosen (but do not remove fully) lower ball joint/tie rod nut, separate tie rod end with puller, and if necessary separate lower ball joint using appropriate tool. Support the lower control arm with a jack to prevent sudden drop.

3. Remove strut from knuckle and tower
- Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts (usually two large bolts). Use breaker bar/impact. Support knuckle so it doesn’t fall.
- Inside the engine bay or top of wheel well, remove the three strut-to-tower nuts (hold stud from rotating with hex or Allen as needed). Keep the top nuts handy.
- Remove the strut assembly downward out of the wheelwell.

4. Disassemble the strut (on bench)
- Use a quality spring compressor: attach compressors to opposite sides of coil, tight against spring coils, and compress evenly a few turns at a time until preload is relieved on the top nut.
- Remove the center top nut (hold the strut piston with appropriate hex/Allen or strut rod tool). Remove top mount, bearing, dust boot, bump stop.
- Replace worn parts: strut cartridge or entire strut (preferred to avoid spring work), new top mount/bearing, dust boot, bump stop. If reusing old spring, inspect for cracks/weakness — replace if any doubt.

How to use the spring compressor
- Seat compressor hooks securely on opposite coils and at same pitch height. Tighten alternately and evenly to compress spring until the strut top nut is slack. Never compress beyond necessary. Back off slowly after reassembly. Keep hands away from coils while compressing.

5. Reassemble
- If installing new strut cartridge into the original spring assembly, transfer compressed spring onto new strut, fit mount/bearing, and tighten top nut to the specified torque (use torque wrench on the specified torque or follow service manual).
- Decompress the spring slowly and evenly until it seats.

6. Refit strut assembly
- Insert strut up into tower, loosely install top nuts to hold it while aligning with knuckle.
- Align the lower strut eye to the knuckle and insert lower bolts. Reinstall and torque lower bolts to spec.
- Reconnect tie rod end and sway bar link, ABS bracket, brake hose bracket. Reinstall rotor and caliper.
- Torque all nuts/bolts to factory specs. If service manual instructs, torque some suspension bolts with vehicle at normal ride height (jack vehicle to simulate weight) — check manual.

7. Final checks
- Ensure all sensors/wiring are routed correctly.
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel lug nuts to spec in star pattern.
- Test-drive at low speed to verify no noises. Get full four-wheel alignment.

Rear shock/coil (multi-link) — step-by-step
1. Preparation
- Loosen rear wheel lugs slightly, raise vehicle, support on jack stands, remove rear wheel.
- Support the rear hub/knuckle and lower control arms with a jack to prevent sudden drop.

2. Remove rear shock
- Access top shock mounting; on T31 the top is often accessible from the trunk trim or wheel well. Remove top nut(s) while supporting shock.
- Remove lower shock bolt and remove shock. Replace with new shock/strut. Reinstall bolts and torque to spec.

3. Rear coil spring removal (if replacing spring)
- Support the rear lower control arm/hub with a jack.
- Remove bolts that allow the lower arm to drop enough to free the spring (this typically includes lower arm pivot bolt or trailing arm bolts — remove in stages).
- Carefully lower the control arm/jack to relieve spring preload and remove spring. Replace and reverse process. Ensure spring rubber isolators are installed correctly.
- Re-torque pivot bolts according to manual; many manufacturers require these to be torqued with the suspension at normal ride height — jack the axle to simulate ride height if instructed.

Common replacement parts to consider
- Complete strut assembly (easier, safer) or strut cartridge + top mount/bearing, dust boot, bump stop
- Sway bar end links
- Control-arm bushings or entire control arm if ball joints are integral
- Lower ball joints or tie rod ends
- ABS sensor clips/bolts and brake hardware
- New bolts/nuts where specified (some are one-time use)

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not using jack stands: never rely on the jack alone.
- Improper spring compressor use: compressor failure can release the spring violently. Attach opposite sides and compress evenly.
- Reusing worn top mounts/bearings: they cause noise and premature strut failure; replace them with the strut.
- Not replacing all related wear items: replacing only the strut but leaving worn links/ball joints can leave problems.
- Not torquing to spec or torquing suspension bolts with wheels off: some pivot bolts must be torqued with suspension loaded to avoid bushing pre-load; consult service manual.
- Forgetting ABS/brake hose routing: can snag and break.
- Overtightening studs or using excessive heat near sensors/plastic lines.
- Reinstalling bolts with corrosion: clean threads, apply anti-seize where appropriate, and replace bolts that are stretched or damaged.
- Skipping alignment: any suspension work requires an alignment afterward.

How specific tools are used — quick notes
- Torque wrench: set desired torque, tighten until it clicks. For critical suspension bolts, use torque wrench rather than impact.
- Impact gun: good for removal of seized bolts; use with care on mounting bolts and do final torque with torque wrench.
- Spring compressor: attach hooks on opposite coils, tighten each side a few turns alternately to keep spring centered, compress until top nut can be removed.
- Ball joint separator: wedge or threaded puller to push joint taper out of knuckle; support control arm as separation often allows arm to drop.
- Penetrating oil + heat: apply and let sit for tough bolts; use torch carefully and protect nearby rubber/plastic.

Final steps
- After reassembly, lower vehicle and torque wheels. Perform a road test checking for unusual noises and correct ride height.
- Get a professional alignment (toe/camber/caster) after suspension work.

Note: Always verify torque values and sequence with the Nissan T31 factory service manual for exact figures and procedures for your year/engine/trim.
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