1) Safety & tools (do these first)
- Park on level ground, engine off and cool, handbrake on. Wear gloves/eye protection.
- Tools: basic spanners/sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, penetrating oil, cable lubricant (PTFE spray), replacement choke cable or OEM part, clips/grommets if needed.

2) Theory — what a choke cable does
- A mechanical choke reduces intake air or holds the throttle/choke valve partly closed for cold starts so the engine runs richer (more fuel relative to air) until warm.
- On cars with a cable choke the dashboard lever or choke linkage pulls an inner wire that moves a choke plate or throttle lever at the intake/airbox.
- If the cable is seized, broken, stretched, or detached the choke plate stays in the wrong position: too open → hard cold starting/stalling; too closed → over‑rich running/smoking and poor driveability once warmed.
- Repairing/replacing the cable restores correct mechanical control and the correct cold‑start enrichment behavior, so mixture and idle are correct during warm‑up.

3) Confirm diagnosis (quick tests)
- Cold engine: try to start. If it won’t start easily, or stalls immediately, or idles badly until warm, suspect choke linkage not operating.
- With engine cold and ignition off, manually operate the choke lever at the intake/airbox (or pull the dash lever if present) and watch the choke plate/lever move. If movement is stiff, absent, or sluggish, the cable/linkage is faulty.

4) Locate cable and attachment points on T31
- On a T31 the “choke” mechanism (if fitted) will be at the throttle body/airbox area; the cable routes through the engine bay to a firewall/dash grommet and to the driver control. Identify both ends: engine-end linkage and dash firewall grommet.

5) Remove old cable (order of operations)
- Loosen any body trim or dash lever bezel inside the cabin to access the inner cable end if present.
- From engine bay, spray penetrating oil on exposed fittings and the firewall grommet.
- Release any retaining clips at the engine end (choke lever/plate) and note the routing so you can match it on reassembly.
- Disconnect the inner wire from the choke lever: usually by unhooking a small clevis/pin or sliding a ball end out of its slot. Support the lever to avoid bending.
- Pull the inner wire back through the grommet/firewall and remove outer sheath retainers and clips. Remove the cable assembly.

6) Inspect & decide: repair vs replace
- If inner wire moves freely when disconnected and sheath is intact, you can clean and lubricate cable. If frayed, corroded, stiff inside sheath, or outer sheath cracked, replace with new OEM/quality cable.
- Check grommets, clips, and lever bushings and replace if worn.

7) Fit new or serviced cable (reverse order, with adjustments)
- Route cable exactly as original, avoiding sharp edges and heat sources; secure with clips; fit new grommet at firewall.
- Attach inner wire to choke lever and any clevis/pin; secure retaining clip.
- In-cabin attach lever/knob per original mounting.

8) Adjustment (critical)
- With engine cold and cable connected, set the dash lever to the “off”/released position. There should be minimal free play but no preload forcing the choke closed.
- Adjust cable length so choke plate is fully open when dash lever released, and moves to correct closed position when lever actuated.
- Start engine cold: the engine should crank more easily and idle slightly higher until warming, then smooth down as thermostat/IAC and choke return to normal.
- Re-check after a short test drive and re-tighten retainers.

9) How this repair fixes the fault (brief)
- Replacing/repairing the cable restores the intended mechanical travel of the choke plate/throttle lever. That ensures correct air restriction during cold starts (richens mixture) and proper opening when warming.
- Correct travel prevents lean hard-starts (if stuck open) and prevents over-rich running or stalling (if stuck closed or binding), returning cold-start behavior, idle control, and emissions to normal.

10) Final checks
- Inspect for binding during full steering lock, full suspension travel, and engine movement.
- Verify no vacuum or electrical fault codes remain (if applicable).
- Dispose of old parts and tools properly.

That’s the ordered theory-and‑procedure summary for diagnosing and repairing a cable‑type choke.
rteeqp73

Mechanic Jack| Nissan X Trail - The process of vehicle restoration 6 days fixing this vehicle Lady's car owner very satisfy our job. She is very happy. She won't sell it. It's not gonna to be in 2nd hand ...

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