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Nissan ZD30DD and KA23DE engine factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Floor jack and 2 properly rated jack stands (or lift)
- Wheel chocks
- 1/2" drive breaker bar + 1/2" drive torque wrench (and 3/8" torque wrench for smaller fasteners)
- Socket set (deep & shallow), combination wrenches (metric set)
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Spring compressor (bench or two‑leg compressor for MacPherson strut springs)
- Impact gun (optional) or breaker bar
- Pry bar, hammer, punch
- Flat screwdriver, pliers
- Wire brush, rags, solvent
- Anti-seize and/or light threadlocker (per manual)
- New dampers/struts (complete assemblies recommended for front), new top mounts/bump stops/dust boots, new mounting bolts/nuts if the originals are damaged or specified single‑use
- Replacement swaybar endlinks/upper mount bushings if worn
- Rubber gloves, eye protection

Safety first (read and follow)
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack — always use rated jack stands on solid points.
- Use eye protection and gloves. Be careful with compressed springs — they store lethal energy. If you’re not experienced with spring compressors, buy a preassembled strut instead of disassembling struts.
- Follow torque specs in the factory service manual. Incorrect torque can cause component failure or unsafe handling.
- If rusted fasteners are expected, apply penetrating oil and let soak; heat only if you know what you’re doing.

General notes about the Nissan ZD30/DD / KA23DE platforms
- These engines are irrelevant to the damper removal procedure; suspension design is what matters. Typical Nissan passenger/utility vehicles use front MacPherson struts and either separate rear shocks or rear struts depending on model. Treat the front as a strut assembly and the rear as a separate shock unless your vehicle has rear struts (then treat accordingly).
- If uncertain, order complete front strut assemblies (spring preinstalled) to avoid spring compression work.

Step‑by‑step — Front MacPherson strut replacement
1. Preparation
- Park flat, chock rear wheels. Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly with vehicle on ground.
- Raise the front with a floor jack at the manufacturer jacking point. Secure on jack stands under the control arm/subframe. Remove front wheels.

2. Access and prep
- Open the hood, locate strut top mount nuts (in the engine bay/strut tower). Spray penetrating oil on bolts & mating surfaces.
- Support the hub/knuckle: place a second jack or transmission jack under the lower control arm or under the hub assembly to support weight when you separate the strut.

3. Disconnect ancillary parts
- Remove swaybar endlink from the strut (or from control arm depending on design). Use two wrenches or impact. Note any loaded pinch bolts.
- Disconnect brake line or ABS sensor bracket from the strut body — do not stretch or damage lines.
- If needed, separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle to gain clearance — use a ball joint separator or a hammer (controlled strikes). Support control arm after separation.

4. Remove strut-to-knuckle fasteners
- Remove lower mounting bolts/nuts that secure the strut to the steering knuckle. These can be tight/corroded; use penetrating oil and breaker bar or impact. Support the knuckle so it doesn’t drop.
- While hub is supported, remove the top three strut tower nuts inside the engine bay. Do not remove the center nut (strut rod nut) yet if you plan to use a compressor.

5. Extract strut assembly
- Lower the jack under the knuckle slightly, freeing the strut from the knuckle and pull out the strut assembly downward through the wheel arch.

6A. If installing a complete new strut assembly (recommended)
- Compare lengths and mounts. Install the new strut into the tower, loosely fit the top nuts (hand tighten).
- Align the strut to the knuckle and insert the lower bolts. Tighten lower bolts to the service manual torque with the vehicle at rest on stands (some manufacturers require tightening lower bolts at ride height — check manual).
- Reattach swaybar endlink, brake/ABS brackets. Torque all hardware to spec.
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts to spec. Get wheel alignment after replacement.

6B. If reusing spring and compressing
- Securely clamp the spring in a correct rated spring compressor, compress evenly until spring free of strut seat. Remove center strut rod nut and top mount, swap damper/strut, reassemble, loosen compressor evenly to seat spring. Do NOT attempt without certified compressor and experience.

Step‑by‑step — Rear shocks (separate absorber)
1. Preparation
- Chock front wheels, loosen rear wheel lugs if wheel removal is needed.
- Raise rear and support on jack stands. Remove wheel if necessary.

2. Support axle
- Support the axle with a jack to prevent it from dropping when lower shock bolt is removed.

3. Remove upper and lower bolts
- Spray penetrating oil on bolts. Loosen and remove upper shock mount nut/bolt first (some designs have nut inside trunk or under the bed).
- Remove lower mounting bolt. Slack in the axle will allow removal of the shock.
- Remove shock; inspect bushings and mounts. Replace with new shock that matches orientation.

4. Install new shock
- Fit the shock in place, insert upper bolt/nut and lower bolt. Start threads, then torque both to spec with axle at normal ride height if specified by manual.
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts to spec.

Special/solid axle rear notes (pickup/SUV)
- If the vehicle has leaf springs, shocks mount to axle and frame/bed. Support the axle and remove bolts; some older bolts are single‑use — replace if bent or excessively corroded.

How to use key tools (short)
- Floor jack: position under manufacturer jacking points; lift slowly. Place jack stands before working under vehicle.
- Jack stands: place on solid structural points (subframe, axle housing). Lower vehicle onto stands; shake to confirm stability.
- Spring compressor: attach both ends to coil at approx 120° apart and compress evenly with alternating turns. Compress only until spring is loose on seats. Never use an unapproved compressor or compress only one side. Keep body clear, wear face protection.
- Torque wrench: tighten to specified torque in a smooth motion; use correct drive size and socket. Re‑check torque after first few miles.
- Penetrating oil + breaker bar: apply and allow soak time; use breaker bar for controlled force if impact gun not available.

Replacement parts recommended
- New damper/shock or complete strut assemblies (front). Prefer assembled struts to avoid spring compression.
- New top mounts/strut mounts, bump stops, dust boots.
- New mounting nuts/bolts if corroded or single‑use (many OEM lower strut bolts are reusable but may be seized).
- New swaybar link ends if worn.
- New rubber bushings if the shock mounting bushings are degraded.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the vehicle correctly: always use rated jack stands on appropriate points.
- Trying to disassemble a strut spring without a proper compressor: risk of severe injury. Use assembled replacement strut if you’re not trained.
- Re‑using worn top mounts, bump stops, or dust boots: causes premature noise and premature strut wear — replace them.
- Overlooking corroded bolts: they can shear. Soak with penetrating oil and replace if any sign of damage.
- Incorrect torque or tightening order: refer to service manual. Some lower bolts require tightening with suspension loaded — check procedure.
- Forgetting to disconnect brake/ABS brackets or swaybar links: can damage lines or joints when lowering knuckle.
- No wheel alignment after replacing struts: results in poor handling and uneven tire wear. Always perform 2‑wheel or 4‑wheel alignment after suspension work.
- Not test driving to check for noises/handling changes: verify repairs at low speed and then normal driving.

Final checks
- Ensure all fasteners torqued to spec and cotter pins installed if applicable.
- Check brake lines/ABS wiring are free and not stretched.
- Inspect all replaced rubber parts and ensure dust covers installed.
- Get professional wheel alignment immediately after replacing dampers/struts.

Done.
rteeqp73

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