Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Massey Ferguson 8100 series tractor factory workshop and repair manual download

1) Brief theory — what the PCV system does
- Blow-by gases from combustion enter the crankcase; the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve meters and routes those gases back into the intake to be burned.
- The valve is a spring‑loaded, one‑way metering device: it allows flow out of the crankcase when intake vacuum is present and closes or restricts flow when intake pressure rises (e.g., turbo boost) to prevent pressurized intake air entering the crankcase.
- Proper PCV operation controls crankcase pressure, prevents oil leaks, reduces oil contamination and smoke, and meters hydrocarbon emissions.

2) Common symptoms of a faulty PCV on a diesel tractor
- Oil leaks or oil being forced out of seals and grommets.
- Excessive oil consumption, oil in the air cleaner, blue smoke or smoky idle.
- Rough idle or poor running due to intake contamination.
- Excessive crankcase pressure (bloating of hoses) or, conversely, no vacuum at the PCV hose.

3) Tools & parts
- Replacement PCV valve (OEM part for MF 8100 series) and replacement grommet/O‑ring if degraded.
- Screwdriver or nut-driver for hose clamps, pliers.
- Rags, solvent for cleaning, small pick for removing old grommet.
- Gloves, eye protection.
- Optional: small vacuum gauge or hand pump for functional check.

4) Safety & prep (do this first)
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, stop engine and let it cool enough to work safely.
- Remove key. If you’ll be working near electrical connections, consider disconnecting negative battery terminal.
- Clean area around valve to prevent dirt falling into hose or intake.

5) In‑order replacement procedure (follow exactly)
1. Locate the PCV valve: typically mounted in the valve/rocker cover with a hose to the intake or air cleaner. On the MF 8100 it will be on the cylinder head/valve cover area — trace the crankcase vent hose if unclear.
2. Remove any components blocking access (air intake ducting, covers) enough to reach the valve and hose.
3. Loosen the clamp on the vent hose and disconnect the hose from the PCV valve. Inspect the hose for cracks; replace if brittle.
4. Pull the PCV valve from its rubber grommet or unscrew it if threaded. If grommet is stuck, use a pick carefully to pry it out; avoid pushing debris into the hole.
5. Inspect the old PCV valve: shake it — you should hear a light rattle (spring). Look for carbon build‑up, stuck plunger, cracks or hardened rubber. Inspect the valve seat and grommet; replace grommet/O‑ring if hardened or damaged.
6. Clean the valve port in the valve cover and the hose ends with a rag; remove heavy deposits but do not force debris into the crankcase.
7. If the old valve is faulty, install the new PCV valve into the grommet (lubricate O‑ring lightly with clean engine oil if necessary) and press it fully into the valve cover until seated. If grommet was replaced, fit the new grommet first.
8. Reattach the vent hose and tighten clamp to secure the connection. Ensure the hose routing is free of kinks and is not rubbing on hot parts.
9. Reinstall any removed intake or covers. Reconnect battery if disconnected.

6) Functional checks after replacement
- Start the engine and let it idle. At idle you should feel a light vacuum at the crankcase hose (or hear airflow through the valve). If you have a vacuum gauge or hand pump, confirm vacuum is present and that the valve restricts/back‑closes under boost (you can use a hand pump to simulate pressure—modern PCV valves close against positive pressure).
- Check for immediate oil leaks at valve and grommet while engine is running and under a short test drive/engine run.
- Observe idle quality and check for oil in air cleaner after some operation.

7) How replacing the PCV valve fixes the fault — mechanical explanation
- If the valve was stuck open: during turbo boost or high intake pressure the valve cannot close, letting intake air pressurize the crankcase. That raises crankcase pressure and forces oil out past seals and grommets, causing leaks and oil in the air cleaner. Replacing the valve restores the one‑way function so intake positive pressure is blocked from entering the crankcase, preventing seal blow‑by and external oil leaks.
- If the valve was stuck closed or clogged: blow‑by gases cannot escape, causing buildup of crankcase pressure and venting at weak points (gaskets, seals), oil weeping, and increased oil consumption. A new valve re‑establishes controlled ventilation using intake vacuum, relieving pressure and returning blow‑by to the intake for combustion, reducing leaks and operating problems.
- New valve spring and seating restore correct metering of flow (too large or too small flow causes either vacuum loss or crankcase overpressure); proper metering optimizes idle stability, emissions, and oil control.

8) Quick diagnostic checks you can do before replacing
- Remove PCV and blow through: should allow flow from crankcase side to intake side and block flow reverse. No flow or free two‑way flow indicates failure.
- Shake the valve: no rattle often means the internal plunger is stuck.

9) Final notes & cautions
- Use the correct OEM replacement and grommet. A loose or poor‑sealing valve or grommet will recreate leaks.
- Replace brittle hoses and clamps as needed.
- Don’t over‑torque anything — the valve usually’s push‑fit into a rubber grommet; follow any torque spec if threaded.
- After replacement, monitor for several hours of operation for returned symptoms (oil leakage, smoke).

That’s the ordered procedure with theory and explanation of how the repair cures the faults.
rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions