Short answer up front: Neither the KA23DE nor the common ZD30DD variants are pushrod (OHV) engines — they are overhead-cam designs and do not use pushrods. If you meant “inspect/remove/replace pushrods” for a Nissan engine that actually uses pushrods (or you have a non‑standard cylinder head that uses pushrods), below is a concise, professional step‑by‑step procedure, tools, safety points, how each tool is used, replacement parts commonly required, and common pitfalls.

Read the whole procedure before starting. Always have the factory service manual for the exact engine variant for specifications (torques, clearances, sequences).

A. Verify whether your engine has pushrods
- KA23DE = DOHC 16‑valve, no pushrods. ZD30DD (most common variants) = OHC/DOHC diesel, no pushrods. If your head has visible rocker arm tube/rocker shaft assembly and pushrods under a valve cover, proceed. If not, stop — you don’t have pushrods.

B. Tools and consumables
- Basic: metric socket/ratchet set, extensions, swivel, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (appropriate range for valve train bolts)
- Screwdrivers, pliers, rubber mallet
- Valve cover gasket set (new gasket mandatory if cover removed)
- Pushrod removal/installation tool or magnetic pickup + long pliers
- Feeler gauges (if adjusting lash manually) or dial gauge if required
- Dial caliper / micrometer (to measure pushrod straightness/length)
- Straight edge or V‑block + dial indicator (check runout/straightness)
- Shop rags, parts tray, marker or numbered labels
- Penetrant and solvent, shop vacuum or compressed air (cleaning)
- Replacement pushrods (OEM or same spec), lifters (recommended if worn), rocker arms/shafts (if worn)
- Engine oil (for priming/assembly), new valve cover gasket, RTV if required
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, jack stands (if raised), battery terminal wrench

C. Safety precautions
- Work with engine cold unless manual specifies otherwise.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- If working under vehicle, use jack stands on level ground — never rely on a jack.
- Keep combustion chamber and oil passages clean — cap fuel/intake openings.
- Label parts and orientation — valve train pieces must go back in original location unless replacing.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby when working on fuel systems.

D. Step‑by‑step procedure (applies to OHV/pushrod engines)
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, remove negative battery cable.
- Remove any components blocking valve cover access: intake plumbing, breather hoses, ignition components as needed.
- Clean the top of the valve cover to avoid debris entering when opened.

2. Remove valve cover
- Loosen and remove valve cover bolts in a crisscross pattern. Pry gently if stuck, avoid gouging mating surfaces.
- Remove old gasket and clean mating surfaces; place parts in a labeled tray.

3. Expose the rocker assembly and pushrods
- With cover off you’ll see rocker arms/shaft or individual rockers and pushrods. Before removing anything, use marking tape/numbering to note cylinder order and pushrod positions. Remove one cylinder’s pushrods at a time if you are concerned about lifter seating.

4. Remove rocker arms / shaft (if required)
- Depending on design, either remove rocker shaft bolts or individual rocker pivot bolts. Loosen evenly if a shaft—remove in a staged pattern to prevent binding.
- Keep rockers in order and orientation; place them in labeled trays.

5. Remove pushrods
- Pull pushrods straight up. Use a magnetic pickup for steel pushrods; if aluminum or non‑magnetic, use long needle‑nose pliers or a pushrod removal tool. Support the lifter while removing pushrod to avoid dropping debris.
- Remove one pushrod at a time and set it aside in the same numbered position (don’t mix).

How the tools are used:
- Magnetic pickup: drop close to pushrod end and lift straight out — good for steel pushrods.
- Pushrod pliers / long needle‑nose: grip the end of the pushrod and pull straight up; avoid bending the end by levering on other components.
- Pushrod removal tool (slotted bar with hooks): hooks under the pushrod to pull upward without contacting lifter.

6. Inspect pushrods and valve train parts
- Visually inspect pushrod ends for mushrooming, pitting, indentation, flattening, or wear.
- Roll each pushrod on a flat surface to check straightness (pushrod should roll smoothly with no wobble). Measure runout with a dial indicator on V‑blocks; replace if any bend or runout beyond factory spec.
- Measure length if you have original specs. Replace if out of spec.
- Inspect lifter faces and cam lobes for wear or scoring. If lifters or cam lobes are damaged, replace both affected parts.
- Check rocker arm contact surfaces and shafts for scoring/galling.

7. Replace parts as required
- Replace any pushrod with bent/worn one. Replace lifters in bank if they show wear — hydraulic lifter failure can damage pushrods quickly.
- Replace valve cover gasket and any O‑rings removed.
- If replacing pushrods, use OEM or exact spec replacements (same length and stiffness). Do not mix aftermarket/unknown lengths.

8. Reinstall pushrods
- Coat pushrod ends lightly with clean engine oil before installing to preserve lubrication.
- Drop each pushrod into its original position, ensuring it seats fully in the lifter cup and under the rocker arm bore. Pushrods must sit straight and fully seated.
- If using a shaft rocker, ensure pushrod seats in the rocker bore correctly.

9. Reinstall rocker arms / shaft
- Refit rockers in their original positions and torque bolts in the specified staged pattern to factory torque. If using a rocker shaft, tighten gradually and evenly (staged sequence).
- If the engine uses adjustable rocker studs/nuts, follow procedure (preload, then tighten to spec or set lash with feeler gauge). If hydraulic lifters, follow the factory bleed/preload procedure (often tighten to spec, then back off or rotate engine to set).

10. Set valve lash / preload
- For mechanical lifters: rotate engine to TDC on compression stroke for that cylinder and set clearance with a feeler gauge to factory spec; tighten locknut/adjuster and recheck.
- For hydraulic lifters: many engines require tightening rocker nut to a specified torque while cam lobe is on the base circle, then backing off a set amount, or rotating the engine over several revolutions to allow lifters to settle. Follow factory procedure exactly.

11. Final assembly
- Clean valve cover mating surface; install new gasket and RTV only where specified.
- Reinstall valve cover and torque bolts to spec in correct sequence.
- Reattach removed components, reconnect battery.
- Prime oiling system (crank engine with fuel disabled or cycle starter to build pressure) if you replaced lifters or did major work, per manual.

12. Test and recheck
- Start engine and listen for abnormal noise. Let it reach operating temperature.
- Recheck valve cover bolts after heat cycles if manual recommends.
- Recheck valve lash after break‑in if mechanical lifters were adjusted.

E. Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Pitfall: Mixing pushrods between positions. Fix: label pushrods and rockers; reinstall in original positions unless replacing with matched new set.
- Pitfall: Bent pushrods installed, causing noise and cam/lifter wear. Fix: check straightness (roll test/dial indicator), replace anything bent.
- Pitfall: Not seating pushrod fully in lifter — causes ticking and accelerated wear. Fix: ensure pushrod drops straight and sits in lifter cup.
- Pitfall: Incorrect lash/preload procedure (especially with hydraulic lifters) leading to noisy valves or lifter damage. Fix: follow factory procedure exactly.
- Pitfall: Over‑torquing rocker/shaft bolts or valve cover bolts. Fix: use calibrated torque wrench and follow specs.
- Pitfall: Not replacing valve cover gasket — leads to oil leaks and misdiagnosis. Fix: always replace gasket and clean surfaces.
- Pitfall: Reusing badly worn lifters or rockers. Fix: inspect and replace worn components; reuse only if within spec.

F. Replacement parts commonly required
- Pushrods (OEM or correct aftermarket matching length/spec)
- Valve cover gasket
- Hydraulic lifters (recommended replacement if more than light wear)
- Rocker arms/shaft or bushings (if worn)
- Valve cover bolts (sometimes torque‑to‑yield; check manual)
- Engine oil and filter if contamination suspected

G. Quick notes about tool usage
- Torque wrench: always use for final torques; tighten in correct sequence and break torque down into steps (e.g., 50% then 100%).
- Feeler gauges: insert between rocker and valve stem tip to measure clearance; rotate engine to base circle before measuring.
- Magnetic pickup: use to extract pushrods; be cautious not to drag debris into lifter bores.
- Dial indicator (runout): mount on V‑blocks, spin the pushrod — any runout >0.05–0.10 mm (check manual) indicates bend -> replace.

H. Final reminder
- Because KA23DE and most ZD30DD units are OHC and don’t use pushrods, do not attempt this procedure unless you have confirmed your engine is a pushrod design. Always consult the factory service manual for the exact model/year for torque figures, clearances, and hydraulic‑lifter procedures.

If you want, I can summarize the exact torque and clearance specs for a specific pushrod‑equipped Nissan engine if you provide the exact engine code and year — but you said no questions, so I’ve left that out.
rteeqp73

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