Short answer first: you’re adding (or replacing) a protective fuse(s) to the TE‑20’s electrical system so a short or overload melts the fuse instead of cooking the wiring or starting a fire. Below is a beginner‑friendly, step‑by‑step guide with every component explained, the electrical theory, sizing guidance, installation steps, testing, and common failure modes.

Safety first
- Work with battery disconnected (negative terminal off) whenever making or changing wiring connections.
- Wear eye protection and avoid tool shorting across battery posts.
- Use the correct fuse voltage and current rating for the circuit.
- Route wiring away from hot parts, sharp edges, and moving parts.

What “fuse on the TE‑20” means
- Older TE‑20 tractors often have minimal or no modern fusing. “Fusing on” means adding fuses or a fusible link to the main feed and/or individual circuits (lights, ignition, starter) so a single short won’t damage wiring, burn insulation, or start a fire.

Core components (what they are and what they do)
- Battery: DC power source. On TE‑20 originals it’s usually 6‑volt; many are converted to 12‑volt. Provides cranking, accessories, and smoothing for generator output.
- Positive battery cable: heavy cable from battery + to the main distribution point (starter, solenoid, or switch). This is the cable you protect with a main fuse or fusible link.
- Negative/earth cable: returns current to battery. Good clean chassis ground is essential.
- Generator (dynamo) or alternator: produces charging current when engine runs. On older TE‑20s this is a small generator regulated by a cut-out or voltage regulator.
- Cut‑out / voltage regulator: controls charging and prevents battery feeding back into the generator when engine stops.
- Ammeter (if fitted): shows charge/discharge and sits between generator and battery on older setups.
- Ignition switch: feeds coil and electrical circuits when key is on.
- Starter motor and solenoid (if fitted): heavy current draw for cranking. If the tractor is hand‑start only, starter load isn’t a concern.
- Lighting and accessory circuits: tail, headlamp, instrument lights, PTO/clutch lamps, etc.
- Fuse or fusible link: intentionally weak point that opens (melts) when current exceeds its rating. Protects wiring and components.
- Fuse holder / fuse block: secures the fuse(s), provides an accessible place to change them.
- Wiring harness, connectors, terminals: carry current. Size (gauge), condition, and routing matter.
- Cable protection: conduit, loom, heat‑shrink, tape, clips to prevent chafe.

Theory — why a fuse is needed and how it works
- Electricity likes to take the path of least resistance. If insulation is damaged or a wire touches chassis (short to ground), the current can spike far above normal. The excessive current generates heat and can melt insulation or start a fire.
- A fuse is a purposely small piece of metal or wire that melts when current exceeds a safe limit. Think of a fuse like a “safety‑valve” in a plumbing line: when pressure gets too high, the valve opens to protect the system.
- You want a fuse rated just above the normal maximum current for that circuit, so normal loads don’t blow it but a short or severe overload will.
- There are types: fast‑blow (melts quickly, used for electronics), slow‑blow/time‑delay (handles short surges like starter cranking), and fusible links (short length of smaller gauge wire used as a fuse on high‑current systems).

How to choose fuse types and sizes (general rules)
- Main fuse (between battery + and rest of system): place as close to battery positive as possible. This protects most wiring. If the system has a starter motor drawing high current, use a fusible link or a high‑amp ANL/bolt‑down fuse sized just above the maximum expected current of your charging system and accessories. Typical guidance:
- TE‑20 original 6V without electric starter: main fuse in the 20–30 A range is often appropriate (check wire gauges and generator output).
- If tractor has electric start or a modern alternator, main fuse may need to be 60 A, 80 A or higher — match to alternator/starter specs and wire size. Use an ANL/bolt fuse or proper high‑current fuse holder.
- Lighting circuits: typically 5–10 A per circuit. Brake/taillight 5 A, headlamp 10 A (example).
- Ignition/coil: 5–10 A fuse is typical.
- If in doubt size the fuse a little above expected continuous current; do not oversize to the point it won’t protect the wiring.

Tools and materials you’ll need
- Multimeter / voltmeter
- Correct fuses (blade/ATO, cartridge, ANL/bolt, or fusible link) and fuse holders
- Heavy gauge ring terminals and small ring terminals
- Wire of correct gauge for any new runs
- Crimp tool, wire strippers, heat‑shrink tubing, solder (optional)
- Cable ties, conduit or loom, terminal protectors
- Wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers
- Electrical grease/dielectric grease (optional)

Step‑by‑step: installing a main fuse and a small fuse block (common, safe setup)
A. Plan
1. Identify battery + terminal and trace the positive cable to where it connects to the tractor wiring/starter/etc. Decide whether you’ll protect everything with a single main fuse or protect individual circuits (or both). Best practice: main fuse near battery + AND fuses for individual circuits (lights, ignition).

B. Choose fuse type and rating
2. If no electric starter and low amperage generator: choose a slow‑blow fuse or fusible link around 20–30 A for the main feed (confirm by checking generator output or wire gauge). If you have a starter or modern alternator, choose an ANL/bolt fuse sized to the alternator/starter spec (e.g., 60–100 A as required). For lighting and ignition circuits choose 5–15 A blade or cartridge fuses.

C. Fit main fuse (placing it close to battery)
3. Disconnect battery negative terminal.
4. Measure a short length (2–3 in / 50–75 mm) from battery + along the positive cable and cut the cable there (or install an inline fuse holder on an added cable). The fuse must be very near the battery so the unprotected stub of cable is minimal.
5. If using a bolt‑on ANL/bolt fuse: terminate the battery + cable with a ring terminal, mount the fuse block on a non‑vibrating bracket, and bolt the ring terminal to the fuse block input. Bolt the output ring terminal to the rest of the system. If using a fuse holder or fuse link, crimp ring terminals and install similarly.
6. Secure and insulate all connections; use heat‑shrink. Torque bolt connections tight but do not strip.

D. Fit individual circuit fuses (recommended)
7. Run a fused feed from the main fuse/ distribution block to a small fuse block mounted near dash. From that small fuse block feed the ignition, tail/headlights, accessory circuits each through their own appropriately sized fuse.
8. Use correct wire gauge from each fused output; do not undersize.

E. Reconnect battery and test
9. Reconnect battery negative.
10. Before starting, check continuity and correct polarity with a multimeter. Check that engine off the voltage at the battery is correct (~6.2–6.4 V for 6 V battery; ~12.5 V for 12 V battery).
11. Start engine (or run) and check charging voltage at battery (charging systems typically show ~7.0–7.4 V for 6V systems when charging or ~13.8–14.5 V for 12V). Ensure fuses don’t blow.
12. Turn on lights and accessories to test the individual fuses.

Testing and troubleshooting
- If the main fuse blows immediately on reconnecting battery: you have a dead short between battery + and ground. Disconnect all fused outputs and reconnect only the main; if it still blows, check starter/solenoid and wiring between battery + and chassis. Use method of isolating circuits to find the short.
- If a circuit fuse blows only when something is switched on (e.g., headlights), that circuit has a short or overcurrent device; inspect lamps, switches, wiring for chafe.
- If charging voltage is too high or too low, check regulator/cut‑out; a failed regulator can overcharge and melt a fuse or damage components.
- High resistance connections cause voltage drops and heating — check for corroded terminals, poor crimps. A fuse won’t prevent heat from a high‑resistance bad terminal — clean or replace.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Wrong fuse rating:
- Too small: nuisance blowing. Fix by sizing properly.
- Too large: won’t protect wiring; wires can overheat and cause fire. Never oversize a fuse to “avoid blowing.”
- Putting the fuse in the wrong place: if you f it far from the battery, an unprotected length of cable could short and catch fire. Always put main fuse as close to battery + as practical.
- Using the wrong type: fast‑blow on starter feed will blow from cranking surge. Use time‑delay/slow‑blow or fusible link for starter/main circuits.
- Poor connections: loose or corroded ring terminals/wires cause heat, voltage drop, and failure. Crimp and/or solder and protect with heat‑shrink.
- Routing mistakes: wires too near exhaust, moving linkages, or sharp edges will chafe through insulation and short. Use loom and clamps.
- Incompatible voltage: installing a 12 V fuse on a 6 V system doesn’t matter for the fuse voltage rating (fuse voltage rating is max voltage it can safely interrupt), but wiring and components must match the battery system voltage.
- Ignorant removal of the ammeter: some TE‑20 setups put ammeter in the main feed; placing a fuse in the wrong place can bypass the ammeter and give false reading. If you want to keep the ammeter, locate the fuse between the ammeter and battery so ammeter still measures flow as designed (or adapt wiring so it works correctly).

Analogy to keep it simple
- Think of the battery and wiring like a water main and pipes. The fuse is a deliberately thin pipe section that will break under too much flow so the rest of the house plumbing isn’t destroyed. The main fuse is the breaker at the meter; the small fuses are like branch valves to each faucet.

Quick checklist to finish
- Main fuse installed right at battery +.
- Individual fuses for ignition, lighting, and accessories.
- Correct fuse types and ratings selected.
- Secure, clean, corrosion‑free terminals and proper wire gauge.
- Wires routed and secured away from heat and moving parts.
- Charging voltage tested while engine runs.
- Spare fuses and a spare fusible link on board.

Common recommended fuse sizes (examples only — verify for your exact setup)
- 6V TE‑20 with no starter: main 20–30 A slow‑blow or fusible link; ignition 5–10 A; lights 5–10 A.
- 12V conversion or with electric starter/modern alternator: main 60–100 A ANL/bolt fuse sized to alternator/starter capacity; coil 5–10 A; lights 10–15 A.

Final note
A properly fused TE‑20 is safer and easier to maintain. Do not oversize fuses to avoid nuisance blowing; instead find and fix the cause. If you’re unsure about wire gauge, generator/alternator, or starter draw, bring wiring diagrams and specs or have a trained auto electrician confirm main fuse sizing.

That’s the complete beginner guide — theory, components, step‑by‑step installation, testing, and what to watch out for.
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