- Safety first (read before starting)
- Work outdoors or in a well‑ventilated area; exhaust fumes are toxic.
- Let the tractor cool completely before touching the exhaust; exhaust parts get extremely hot.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves (mechanics’ gloves), and ear protection if using power tools.
- Block wheels, put the tractor in gear, and chock wheels to prevent movement.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental starting.
- If you must lift the tractor, use a hydraulic jack and rated jack stands on solid ground; never rely on the jack alone.

- Purpose and overview (what “exhaust pipe” work usually means)
- Remove and inspect the pipe/muffler/tailpipe for rust, holes, broken clamps or studs.
- Replace corroded sections, broken studs/gaskets, or entire muffler/pipe as needed.
- Reassemble with proper gaskets/clamps or have a welder repair/replace badly rusted parts.

- Basic tools you should have (detailed description and how to use each)
- Socket set (metric and imperial): ratchet handle, variety of sockets.
- Use to remove nuts and bolts; pick the socket that fits snugly; pull the ratchet handle steady to avoid rounding heads.
- Combination wrenches (open and box end): set of sizes.
- Use when access prevents a socket; hold box end on the nut and pull with steady force.
- Breaker bar: long non‑ratcheting bar.
- Use for stuck or rusted bolts to get extra leverage; apply slow steady force, not sudden jerks.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD‑40 Specialist Penetrant):
- Spray on rusted bolts/studs and let soak 10–30 minutes before attempting removal.
- Hammer and drift/punch: steel hammer and a punch or chisel.
- Tap seized studs or brackets lightly to break rust bonds; use punches to drive stuck pins.
- Wire brush / wire wheel for drill:
- Clean flange faces, threads and rusted surfaces for a better seal and easier removal.
- Pry bar / large screwdriver:
- Provide leverage to separate flanges or lift pipe out of rubber hangers.
- Jack and jack stands or ramps: floor jack suitable for a tractor and rated jack stands.
- Lift and support the tractor safely for access under the exhaust; use stands on solid ground.
- Torque wrench: click‑type torque wrench covering the bolt torque range.
- Tighten flange bolts or clamps to a controlled torque to prevent leaks and broken studs.
- Hacksaw / reciprocating saw with metal cutting blade (optional):
- Cut severely corroded pipe sections if bolts can’t be removed; use cutting only when safe and with proper PPE.
- Angle grinder with flap disc / cutoff wheel (optional, for heavy corrosion or welding prep):
- Remove welded brackets or cut pipe; use caution — sparks and heat, wear face shield and respirator.
- Exhaust clamps / new flange bolts / replacement gaskets: new hardware to install.
- Use new clamps or bolts because old ones are often rusted and weak.
- Replacement exhaust parts (see parts section): muffler, tailpipe, manifold gasket, studs.
- Keep parts on hand before disassembly if possible.
- Welding gear or access to a qualified welder (if welding repair needed):
- Required only if pipe sections or muffler are to be welded rather than clamped or spliced; welding needs skill/equipment and proper safety.

- How to remove the exhaust pipe / muffler on a TE‑20 (step sequence)
- Prepare the tractor: cool engine, chock wheels, disconnect battery, put on PPE.
- Inspect the system from manifold to tailpipe to identify clamps, studs, or welded joints and rusted areas.
- Apply penetrating oil liberally to all nuts, bolts, studs, and clamps; let soak (10–30 minutes, longer for very rusty parts).
- Support the muffler/pipe with a jack or a helper so it doesn’t fall when bolts are removed.
- Remove clamps or nuts at the muffler-to-pipe joints using appropriate sockets/wrenches; use a breaker bar for stuck nuts.
- If manifold studs are used and nuts are corroded, hold the stud from the inside of the manifold (if accessible) or use two nuts jammed together technique to back the stud out. If the stud won’t budge, heat (propane torch) or cutting may be required — consider professional help.
- If bolts/nuts are rust‑seized and won’t loosen, cut the clamp or pipe section with a reciprocating saw or hacksaw; protect surrounding parts from sparks/heat.
- Remove the pipe from any rubber hangers or supports; use a pry bar gently to free rubber hangers.
- Lower the pipe/muffler carefully and inspect mating surfaces (manifold face, flanges) for damage.

- How to install the new or repaired exhaust pipe / muffler
- Clean mating flanges with wire brush to remove rust and carbon; clean threads with wire brush or tap if necessary.
- Replace the manifold-to-pipe gasket with a new gasket sized for the TE‑20 or the part you bought.
- Fit the pipe/muffler into rubber hangers and support it with the jack.
- Fit new clamps, bolts or studs loosely so you can align everything; ensure correct orientation and clearance from fuel lines, wiring and bodywork.
- Tighten flange bolts and clamp nuts progressively and evenly; use a torque wrench if you have torque specs, otherwise tighten until snug and then a small additional turn—don’t overtighten fragile studs.
- If using rivets or welding for a permanent repair, have a professional welder perform it if you lack welding experience.
- Reconnect battery, start engine, check for leaks (feel for leakage with gloved hand at safe distance or use a rag on a stick); listen for unusual noises and verify no vibration contact with tractor.

- Parts that commonly need replacement and why
- Manifold gasket
- Why: deteriorates, leaks cause exhaust leak and poor performance.
- Replace: whenever the flange is separated or gasket looks crushed/rusted.
- Muffler or tailpipe (pipe sections)
- Why: rust holes, internal collapse, excessive noise, or broken supports.
- Replace: if holes/large rust, or if repairing is more expensive than replacement.
- Exhaust clamps and U‑bolts
- Why: corrode and lose clamping force.
- Replace: always fit new clamps when reinstalling if old ones are rusted.
- Flange bolts/studs and nuts
- Why: can be rusted or snapped; studs in manifold threads can seize and break.
- Replace: any bent, snapped or heavily corroded fasteners; seized studs often need extraction and replacement.
- Rubber hangers/mounts
- Why: degrade over time and allow excessive movement.
- Replace: if cracked or missing to prevent stress on the pipe and welds.
- Muffler packing (if a serviceable muffler)
- Why: packing can disintegrate and increase noise.
- Replace: if muffler internals are degraded.

- When a part replacement or professional shop is required
- Replace parts yourself when:
- Fasteners can be removed or cut, and replacement parts are available.
- Surface flanges are intact and only gaskets/clamps/pipe sections need swap.
- Use a professional/welder when:
- Manifold flange or manifold itself is cracked.
- Studs are broken flush in manifold threads — extraction can damage casting.
- Welding is required on the manifold or muffler and you don’t have welding skill/equipment.
- Exhaust routing requires custom bending or fabrication.

- Beginner tips and troubleshooting
- Take photos of the assembly before disassembly to aid reassembly.
- Label and bag fasteners so you don’t reassemble with wrong hardware.
- If a bolt head strips, try an extractor kit or cut and drill carefully — extracting studs in castings is delicate; professional help may be safer.
- Do not overtighten studs—cast manifolds can crack.
- After installation, check for vibrations or contact after 10–20 minutes of running and retighten clamps as needed.

- Quick checklist of parts to buy before starting (to avoid delays)
- New manifold-to-pipe gasket(s)
- New exhaust clamps or U‑bolts
- Replacement tailpipe or muffler if rusted or holed
- Replacement studs/nuts if any are heavily corroded (or a stud kit)
- Rubber hangers if worn
- Penetrating oil, wire brush, and gloves/eye protection

- Final safety note
- If anything requires cutting, heating, or welding and you are not trained, stop and take the parts to a mechanic or welding shop. Improper welding on exhaust or manifold can cause further damage or a hazardous failure.

- Done (follow this methodically; replace severely rusted parts or get pro help if stuck)
rteeqp73

Ferguson te20 start up.

Ferguson TE20 Compression Test Today is a follow on from yesterday's video. Here I check the quality of the spark and do a compression test. I buy my service parts ...

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