Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/ratchet set, torque wrench, screwdrivers, pliers, pry bar
- Feeler gauges (diesel valve clearance sizes)
- Compression tester with diesel adapter(s) (fits glow plug or injector hole)
- Cylinder leak-down tester with regulator and gauge
- Fuel pressure gauge / vacuum gauge / inline fuel test port adapter (low-pressure side & high-pressure if applicable)
- Nozzle/ injector tester or injector pop‑tester (bench tester); injector puller if required
- Dial indicator and magnetic base (for injection pump timing / cam timing where required)
- Tachometer (handheld) and boost gauge (for turbo 12H‑T)
- Hand vacuum pump and coolant block tester (combustion leak tester)
- Torque wrench & torque specs (factory manual)
- Multimeter (12 V), battery charger/jump pack
- Inspection boroscope/borescope
- Clean rags, diesel-safe solvent, compressed air, thread sealant, replacement gaskets, O‑rings
- Replacement parts likely: fuel filter elements, injector O‑rings/banjo washers, fuel lines (if damaged), injectors or injector nozzles, lift pump, injector pump seals or rebuild kit, turbochargers or cartridge, coolant and oil as required

Safety first
- Work in a well‑ventilated area. Diesel fumes and vapors are hazardous.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, protective clothing. Use hearing protection when cranking.
- RELIEVE fuel system pressure before disconnecting lines. High‑pressure diesel can penetrate skin.
- Support vehicle securely with chocks and jack stands before working underneath.
- Disconnect negative battery lead when doing electrical/starting system work or when required by procedure.
- Keep open flames, sparks, and smoking away from work area.
- Always consult the factory service manual for torque and timing values.

Step‑by‑step diagnostic procedure
(Apply to Toyota H‑series diesel engines — 2H and 12H‑T. Follow factory manual for exact specs and tolerance.)

1) Initial quick inspection & baseline checks
- Check battery voltage (should be >12.4 V at rest; >10 V while cranking). Weak battery causes misleading results.
- Check engine oil level/condition, coolant level, air filter condition, belt tension, visible leaks, loose hoses, corroded electrical connections.
- Inspect fuel filters and water separator; drain water bowl and check for contamination.
- Note symptoms: hard starting, slow cranking, white/black/blue smoke, loss of power, misfire, oil/coolant mixing.

2) Observe cranking behavior & exhaust
- Attempt start and observe: cranking speed, smoke color (white = unburned fuel/air issue or cold start; black = overfueling/air restriction; blue = oil burning).
- Document how many cranks before start, roughness, and RPM once running. These guide next tests.

3) Compression test (diesel engines rely on high compression)
- Warm engine to normal operating temperature (important for accurate results).
- Disable fuel supply so engine cannot start (shutoff lever or disconnect injection pump feed).
- Remove glow plugs (or use glow plug hole) and install compression gauge adapter into each cylinder glow plug hole in turn.
- Crank engine with starter until gauge reading stabilizes (normally several compression strokes). Record psi or kPa for each cylinder.
- Compare readings to factory spec. Large differences (>10–15% between cylinders) indicate valve, head gasket, piston ring or cylinder wear.
How the tool is used: compression gauge screws into glow plug port; cranking converts piston compression into peak pressure reading. Warm engine gives more reliable numbers.

4) Cylinder leak‑down test (to pinpoint where compression is lost)
- Bring the tested cylinder to TDC compression stroke.
- Install leak‑down tester on glow plug hole, apply compressed air (e.g., 100 psi or regulated value per manual).
- Observe percent leakage on gauge and listen/locate escaping air: intake (air filter), exhaust (muffler), crankcase (dipstick/oil filler), cooling system (bubbles in radiator/coolant overflow).
- Typical pass/fail criteria are given in the service manual; leak locations tell you whether rings, valves, or head gasket are at fault.
How the tool is used: regulator on leak‑down tool sets test pressure; gauge reads leakage percent. Listening and using a helper to watch other outlets locates leak path.

5) Valve clearance check and cam timing
- If compression is marginal, check/adjust valve lash when cold per spec — incorrect lash causes low compression and hard starting.
- Rotate engine to TDC for each cylinder, measure with feeler gauge, adjust using rocker nut/torque per manual.
- Verify cam timing marks and injection pump timing marks. Use a dial indicator on cam if you need precision to set injection timing (especially on turbo 12H‑T).
How the tool is used: dial indicator measures injector pump plunger or cam lift; set to timing mark to align injection event to piston position.

6) Fuel supply system checks (low pressure side)
- Confirm fuel tank has clean diesel. Check for contamination/water.
- Replace primary and secondary fuel filters if not fresh. Bleed entire system of air (manual pump or vacuum bleed).
- Check lift pump operation: listen/feel for suction, measure flow/pressure on low‑pressure side with fuel pressure gauge or flow test.
- Inspect fuel lines and fittings for leaks, damaged clamps, or collapsed hoses causing restricted flow.
Common pitfall: failing to properly bleed air — trapped air causes intermittent no‑start and rough running.

7) Injection pump & high‑pressure system checks
- On mechanical injection pumps, verify pump timing (static and/or dynamic) to factory procedure. Use timing mark, dial indicator, and degree wheel if required.
- Check for obvious external leaks from pump and high‑pressure lines; check banjo bolt washers and sealing surfaces.
- If available, measure high‑pressure delivery (specialized test bench or fuel rail pressure sensors). For on‑engine checks, you can do an injector return flow test or loosen injector lines momentarily (careful) to confirm fuel delivery during cranking (engine must be prevented from starting).
- If the pump shows insufficient delivery or irregular delivery per cylinder, suspect pump wear or internal leakage — the pump may need a professional rebuild.
How the tools are used: a dial indicator provides precise plank timing; fuel pressure gauge on low side shows suction/delivery; torque wrench and proper seals are critical when refitting high‑pressure lines.

8) Injector testing
- Remove injectors and inspect nozzles, seats, and O‑rings. Replace O‑rings and copper washers.
- Bench test injectors on a nozzle tester or have them flow tested at a shop: check opening pressure, spray pattern, dribble, and leakage.
- On‑engine quick check: with fuel primed and engine disabled, loosen the injector return/line nut and crank; a properly functioning injector should show a strong, pulsed spray (this is crude and dangerous — use PPE and prevent engine from starting).
- Replace injectors that show poor spray, dripping, or wrong opening pressure.
Common pitfall: reusing damaged injector washers/O‑rings causing leaks; over‑tightening injectors/lines.

9) Turbocharger checks (12H‑T only)
- Inspect intake piping, intercooler (if fitted) and hoses for leaks, split hoses, and clamps.
- Fit a boost gauge to intake manifold or test port. Compare boost at given rpm/load to expected values.
- Remove intake/exhaust side charge and check rotor shaft endplay and radial play. Small radial movement is normal; excessive movement or contact indicates worn bearings and need for rebuild or replacement.
- Inspect turbine/exducer for oil deposits or oil in intake (indicates seal failure).
- Check actuator/wastegate linkage for free movement and correct actuation.
Tools use: boost gauge screwed into manifold gives real-time boost; borescope can inspect turbine blades through intake/exhaust ports.

10) Cooling system / head gasket checks
- Perform combustion leak test with block tester and pressure test cooling system with hand pump to locate head gasket failure.
- Check for coolant in oil (milky oil) or oil in coolant, which indicate gasket or crack.
- Pressure test radiator/hoses for leaks.
Tools: coolant pressure tester attaches to radiator/cap or neck; block tester detects combustion gases in coolant.

11) Electrical & auxiliaries
- Check glow plug operation (resistance test) if fitted. Weak glow operation causes hard cold starts.
- Check starter draw (amp clamp) and cranking RPM; weak starter or poor starting battery shows different issue than engine mechanical.
- Check alternator output and charging system.

12) Final verification & repairs
- Replace failed components: fuel filters, injector O‑rings, injectors (or send for rebuild), lift pump, inject pump seals/rebuild, turbo cartridge or rebuild, worn hoses, head gasket if confirmed, valve components as needed.
- Reassemble using new gaskets/seals, torque to spec, and bleed fuel system correctly before attempting start.
- After repair, run engine and verify boosted performance (for turbo), exhaust smoke corrected, smooth idle, and no leaks. Recheck compression if head/valve work done.

Common pitfalls & tips
- Not warming the engine before compression testing — yields low readings.
- Forgetting to disable fuel supply when doing compression checks — engine may start.
- Misdiagnosing air in fuel as injector failure — always fully bleed fuel first.
- Overlooking simple items: clogged primary filter, water in fuel, collapsed suction hose.
- Reusing old copper seals/O‑rings on injectors/high‑pressure fittings — causes leaks.
- Improper torque on injector pump or line fittings — can damage studs or cause leaks.
- Ignoring manufacturer timing marks / skipping the factory procedure when setting injection timing.
- Using the wrong injector parts/nozzles — match flow rate and spray pattern to spec.
- Attempting high‑pressure pump repairs without proper bench setup — send to specialist if pump internals are suspected.

When to replace vs rebuild
- Fuel filters, injector O‑rings, seals, hoses: replace.
- Individual injectors: replace if cracked, stuck, or fail bench tests; nozzles sometimes replaceable.
- Lift pump: replace if low flow/pressure or leaking.
- Injection pump: rebuild recommended if internal wear, low delivery or inconsistent timing; replacement only if cost-effective.
- Turbocharger: replace or rebuild if excessive shaft play, blade damage, or oil seal failure.
- Head gasket: replace if leak confirmed by combustion leak test and pressure test; check head for cracks/warpage.

Documentation & factory manual
- Always cross‑check procedures, timing marks, and torque values in the Toyota factory service manual for the specific engine serial and application. Many H‑series procedures require specific alignment tools and measured tolerances.

Wrap‑up
Follow the sequence: baseline checks → compression/leak‑down → fuel suction & filter/bleed → pump timing & injector inspection → turbo/cooling/electrical checks. Use the correct adapters and a methodical approach. Replace consumables first (filters, seals) and then move to bench tests for injectors/pump and turbo inspection. If you lack bench tools for pump or nozzle testing, remove suspect items and send to a diesel specialist to avoid costly mistakes.
rteeqp73

2H to 12ht conversion 60 series Landcruiser HJ FJ60 Some information on doing an engine swap on your 60 series Landcruiser that you might find helpful. let me know if i can be of ...

Transmission to Engine Install 12HT 2H Landcruiser ランクル６０ミッションを積む

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