Parts Manual Massey Ferguson TE-20 tractor download
Massey Ferguson TE-20 parts manual
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File size 61 Mb PDF document searchable 295 pages.
Includes these parts lists and diagrams:
DRIVER'S SEAT AND RELATED PARTS
HYDRAULIC LIFT COVER AND RELATED PARTS
LIFT SHAFT AND RELATED PARTS
HYDRAULIC PUMP ASSEMBLY
UPPER AND LOWER LINKS AND RELATED PARTS
LEVELLING BOX ASSEMBLY AND RELATED PARTS
POWER TAKE OFF ASSEMBLY
HYDRAULIC P.T.O. SHIFTER LEVER, FORK AND RELATED PARTS
PULLEY ATTACHMENT ASSEMBLY
WHEELS AND FENDERS
BRAKE ASSEMBLY
BRAKE ASSEMBLY-FLOATING CAM DOUBLE ACTION
BRAKE RODS, PEDALS AND RELATED PARTS
CENTRE AXLE HOUSING AND RELATED PARTS
REAR AXLE HOUSING AND RELATED PARTS
DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
INSTRUMENT PANEL AND STEERING ASSEMBLY
SELECTOR MECHANISM AND RELATED PARTS
TRANSMISSION
TRANSMISSION CASE AND RELATED PARTS
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
CYLINDER BLOCK WITH CRANKSHAFT, FLYWHEEL AND RELATED PARTS
CAMSHAFT, TIMING COVER AND GOVERNOR DETAILS
PISTON, CONNECTING ROD, SLEEVE AND RELATED PARTS
OIL SUMP, OIL PUMP AND DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT DETAILS
CYLINDER HEAD AND RELATED PARTS
WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY AND FAN (OLD DESIGN)
WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY AND FAN (NEW DESIGN)
OIL FILTER (INCLINED)
OIL FILTER (VERTICAL)
CARBURETTOR (ZENITH)
CARBURETTOR (HOLLEY)
AIR CLEANER AND RELATED PARTS
FUEL VALVE AND SEDIMENT BOWL ASSEMBLY, FUEL FILTER
THROTTLE CONTROLS
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT COMPLETE WITH WIRING (6.VOLT)
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT COMPLETE WITH WIRING (12-VOLT)
RADIATOR AND HOOD ASSEMBLY
FRONT AXLE AND RELATED PARTS
FRONT HUB AND SPINDLE
MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND RELATED PARTS
TE.20 TRACTOR DETAILS
ENGINE DETAILS
PISTON, CONNECTING ROD, SLEEVE AND RELATED PARTS
VALVE AND PUSH ROD ASS EMBLY
CYLINDER HEAD AND RELATED PARTS
WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY AND FAN
CARBURETTOR ASSEMBLY
AIR CLEANER AND RELATED PARTS
MISCELLANEOUS NON-INTERCHANGEABLE SERVICE PARTS
- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and sturdy footwear.
- Work on a level surface, block wheels, set parking brake, and disconnect the battery to avoid accidental start.
- Use properly rated jacks and jackstands; never work under an unsupported gearbox or engine.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and clean up spilled oil/solvents immediately.
- Overview of the job (what you will actually do)
- You will separate the gearbox from the engine to access the clutch assembly, remove the old pressure plate and clutch disc, inspect the flywheel and bearings, fit a new pressure plate (and likely new clutch disc and release/pilot bearings), realign and torque the pressure plate, then reassemble and adjust the clutch.
- Why replacement parts are commonly required
- Pressure plate: springs and friction surfaces wear; if slipping, noisy, or weak, replacement is required.
- Clutch disc: friction lining wears and should normally be replaced when changing the pressure plate to ensure proper engagement.
- Release (throw‑out) bearing: is inexpensive relative to labor and should be replaced because it wears and can seize or make noise.
- Pilot/spigot bearing (if fitted): supports input shaft and often replaced when gearbox is separated.
- Flywheel: check for heat spots, grooves or warpage; resurfacing or replacement is required if damaged.
- Fasteners/gaskets/seals: replace any damaged or stretched bolts and any gearbox breather or seals disturbed during removal.
- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Socket set and ratchet
- Description: variety of sockets (deep and shallow) and a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet.
- How to use: select correct socket for bolt head, push onto bolt, and turn using the ratchet. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts. Keep sockets perpendicular to avoid rounding heads.
- Combination wrenches (open and box end)
- Description: fixed-length wrenches with open end and boxed 12‑point or 6‑point end.
- How to use: use the box end for most fasteners for better grip; open end for quick turns in tight spots.
- Breaker bar
- Description: long non-ratcheting bar for extra leverage.
- How to use: fit socket on breaker bar to free stubborn bolts; apply steady pressure, avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench
- Description: calibrated wrench that tightens bolts to a specific torque.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten bolts in the specified pattern until wrench clicks or indicates. Critical for pressure plate and gearbox mounting bolts.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: manual drivers for clips, small screws, and prying small covers.
- How to use: choose correct tip to avoid cam-out; use for small fasteners and light prying only.
- Pry bar
- Description: steel bar for gentle levering and separating parts.
- How to use: use carefully to separate gearbox from engine housing; place a block of wood to prevent damage and use gradual leverage.
- Hammer and brass or rubber mallet
- Description: steel hammer for stubborn items, brass mallet for tapping without sparks/damage.
- How to use: use gentle taps to free components; avoid striking machined surfaces.
- Punch and drift
- Description: hardened steel tool to drive out pins or align holes.
- How to use: use to remove roll pins or align bolt holes when reassembling.
- Transmission jack or sturdy floor jack + cribbing / axle stands
- Description: transmission jack is low-profile with load restraints; a sturdy floor jack can be used with timber blocks to support gearbox.
- How to use: support gearbox with jack before removing mounting bolts; lower gearbox slowly and in a controlled way. Do not rely on jack alone—use stands/blocks.
- Clutch alignment tool (plastic or metal)
- Description: a mandrel shaped like the gearbox input shaft that fits through the clutch disc into the pilot.
- How to use: insert tool through new clutch disc into pilot bearing to center the disc while tightening the pressure plate bolts. Remove tool before installing gearbox.
- Impact driver or impact wrench (optional but helpful)
- Description: pneumatic or electric wrench that delivers high torque impacts.
- Why optional: speeds removal of stuck bolts; if not available, use breaker bar and penetrating oil.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., WD‑40 or PB Blaster)
- Description: liquid that helps free rusted bolts.
- How to use: spray on fasteners and allow several minutes to soak before attempting removal.
- Wire brush and cleaning solvent
- Description: for cleaning mating surfaces; solvent removes grease and oil.
- How to use: clean flywheel and housing surfaces before fitting new parts.
- Flywheel lock or method to prevent engine rotation
- Description: tool or technique to keep the flywheel from turning while removing starter/flywheel bolts.
- How to use: engage gearbox in gear or use a wooden block to hold flywheel; ensure safety.
- Dial gauge or feeler gauge (for checking endplay, optional)
- Description: precision measuring tools to check runout and clearances.
- Why optional: helpful for flywheel runout or pilot bearing checks, not strictly required for a basic replacement.
- New parts and consumables
- Description: new pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (if fitted), new bolts or studs if required, threadlocker, gearbox oil, rags, and grease.
- How to use: replace bearings with supplied grease as per instructions, apply threadlocker where specified, refill gearbox oil to correct level.
- Extra tools you may need and why
- Gear puller
- Why: to remove a stubborn spigot/pilot bearing or to pull the clutch disc hub if seized.
- Air tools (impact wrench)
- Why: speeds removal of tightly seized bolts; not required but reduces effort.
- Engine hoist or travel lift
- Why: only needed if the engine must be lifted to access the clutch on your particular TE‑20 layout; most TE‑20 clutch jobs require removing gearbox only, not the engine.
- Bench vise
- Why: useful for pressing in/out pilot bearings or supporting parts when fitting new bearings.
- Preparation steps before starting mechanical work
- Park tractor on level ground, block wheels, disconnect battery.
- Drain gearbox oil into a suitable container and dispose per regulations.
- Remove PTO/prop shaft and any linkage, hoses, electrical, or bracketry attached to gearbox.
- Document or photograph linkages and cable positions for reassembly.
- Accessing the clutch / removing gearbox (bulleted procedure)
- Support the gearbox with a transmission jack or floor jack and timber blocks so it won’t drop when fasteners are removed.
- Remove gearbox-to-engine mounting bolts and any locating dowels or studs; keep bolts organized.
- Disconnect linkage, throttle/cable levers, and clutch release linkage from the release shaft/lever.
- Carefully separate gearbox from the engine; use a pry bar gently at the mating seam while supporting the gearbox—avoid gouging machined faces.
- Lower the gearbox straight down and clear of the clutch housing area.
- Removing the old pressure plate and clutch disc
- Inspect the overall assembly and take photographs for reference.
- Loosen the pressure plate bolts gradually in a crisscross/star pattern a few turns at a time to relieve pressure evenly; this prevents spring distortion.
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc and put aside old bolts for comparison.
- Remove release (throw‑out) bearing from the release fork/shaft; note its orientation and mounting method.
- Inspect flywheel surface for glazing, heat spots, cracks, grooves, or excessive wear.
- Inspect and decide on parts to replace (what to look for and why)
- Clutch disc
- What to look for: thin or uneven friction material, contamination from oil, broken rivets, excessive wear.
- Why replace: new pressure plate should be paired with a new disc to ensure life and proper engagement.
- Pressure plate
- What to look for: weak/warped diaphragm spring, broken fingers, uneven surface.
- Why replace: worn springs reduce clamp force and cause slippage.
- Release bearing
- What to look for: rough rotation, play, noise, pitting.
- Why replace: failure causes noisy operation and can damage pressure plate fingers.
- Pilot bearing / bush
- What to look for: roughness or play in pilot support for the input shaft.
- Why replace: a bad pilot bearing can cause input-shaft wobble and disc wear.
- Flywheel
- What to look for: hot spots, cracks, scoring, excessive runout.
- What to do: resurface (machine) if minor damage; replace if cracked or severely grooved. Use a dial indicator to check runout if available.
- Installing new components
- Clean mating surfaces on flywheel and pressure plate with solvent; ensure they are dry and free from oil.
- Fit new pilot bearing/bushing into crankshaft if required—use a drift sized to press it evenly; ensure it’s fully seated.
- Fit new release bearing to the clutch fork or collar; grease splines lightly where recommended (do not grease friction or splined surfaces excessively).
- Place new clutch disc onto the flywheel with the labeled “flywheel side” toward the flywheel (follow disc marking).
- Use the clutch alignment tool through the clutch disc into the pilot bearing to center the disc.
- Position the new pressure plate over the disc and engage bolts by hand; tighten bolts gradually and evenly in a crisscross/star pattern to specified torque.
- Use a torque wrench for final tightening to the manufacturer’s torque spec—consult the TE‑20 service manual for exact values.
- Remove the alignment tool after bolts are torqued.
- Reassembly and final steps
- Reinstall gearbox carefully onto the engine using the transmission jack; align input shaft with clutch splines and slide gearbox home. A slight rotation of the input shaft or hub often helps.
- Reinstall and torque gearbox mounting bolts to spec.
- Reconnect linkage, cables, and any electrical or hydraulic connections removed.
- Refill gearbox to the correct level and type of oil for TE‑20 (consult manual for the correct fluid).
- Reinstall prop/ PTO shaft and any covers.
- Reconnect the battery.
- Adjustments and checks after installation
- Adjust clutch pedal free play per the TE‑20 manual. Typical is some free travel before release rod movement; insufficient free play can cause partial clutch engagement and overheating.
- Check that release bearing returns smoothly and does not bind.
- Start engine and carefully test clutch engagement in neutral, then test drive at low speed to confirm no slippage, chatter, or abnormal noises.
- Recheck gearbox mount bolts and fluid level after test run.
- Torque and service data
- Consult the TE‑20 workshop manual for exact bolt torques, clutch bolt torque pattern and values, gearbox oil grade and capacity, and pedal free-play specifications. Accurate torquing is critical.
- Common problems and troubleshooting
- Difficulty aligning gearbox input shaft: ensure clutch disc is centered with alignment tool and input shaft is straight; check pilot bearing seating.
- Clutch slipping after install: possible incorrect torque on pressure plate bolts, contaminated disc with oil, weak pressure plate, or incorrect free play.
- Noisy operation: check release bearing orientation and condition, verify pressure plate fingers are not damaged.
- Waste handling and final notes
- Dispose of used oil, old parts, and solvents according to local regulations.
- Replace any bolts that were found stretched or damaged; use threadlocker where the manual specifies.
- Keep a shop manual or printout of the TE‑20 procedures and torque specs handy for reference.
- Parts you will most likely need to buy upfront
- New pressure plate (correct model for TE‑20 clutch)
- New clutch disc (matching spline and diameter)
- New release/throw‑out bearing (and pilot bearing if fitted)
- New bolts for the pressure plate if the old ones are single‑use or damaged
- Gaskets/seals and gearbox oil if you will drain the gearbox
- Final practical advice
- If you do not have a transmission jack or help to support the heavy gearbox, get assistance or rent the right equipment—dropping the gearbox can cause severe injury and damage.
- If any step seems beyond your comfort or skill level (especially separating and mating gearbox and engine), consider professional help; the clutch parts themselves are low-cost compared to the labor and damage risk.
- Quick summary (one-line)
- Separate gearbox, remove pressure plate and clutch disc, inspect and replace clutch disc, pressure plate, release/pilot bearings as needed, use the clutch alignment tool and torque wrench to install, then reassemble and adjust.
- Note
- Follow the TE‑20 service manual torque figures and specific part numbers for your tractor year/model. rteeqp73
Furguson TE20 rebuilt engine Rebuild by david nurney.
Oil change on a TEA20's gear box The oil I used in this video was GULF WESTERN OIL FARMOIL STOU 15W-40 Not Sponsored.
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The workshop manual,operators manual and repair manual for the following Massey Ferguson Tractors : MF6110, MF 6120, MF 6130, MF 6140, MF6150, MF6160, MF 6160, MF6180 and MF 6190.