Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Basic hand tools: sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench.
- Spark plug socket, gap tool.
- Compression tester (4-piece or single + adapter).
- Leak-down tester (recommended if compression low).
- Multimeter (DC volts/ohms).
- Timing light (petrol models) or pump timing tools (diesel models if fitted).
- Spark tester/inline spark-check tool (petrol).
- Carburettor cleaner, parts cleaner, brushes.
- Fuel pressure gauge / inline fuel test kit.
- Nozzle tester / injector tester (diesel) or spray tester.
- Feeler gauges (valve clearance).
- Vacuum gauge (useful for carb tuning).
- Battery charger / jump pack.
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, fire extinguisher, rags.
- Replacement consumables likely needed: spark plugs, ignition points/condenser (if fitted), fuel filter, hoses, fuel lines, gaskets/seals, injector nozzles or pump parts if faulty, head gasket, piston rings (if low compression).

Safety first (do this before any work)
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake or chock wheels. Put tractor in neutral and remove key.
- Work with engine cold unless a hot-run test is required. Wear gloves/eye protection.
- If you must run the engine: keep loose clothing/hair clear, have good ventilation (outside), and a fire extinguisher handy.
- Disconnect battery when working on electrical systems; reconnect only for live tests.
- Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel lines; catch spills and dispose properly.

Step‑by‑step diagnostic procedure
1) Initial visual and basic checks
- Tools: flashlight, rags.
- Inspect for obvious: fuel leaks, cracked hoses, loose wiring, oil or coolant leaks, broken fan belts, blocked air filter.
- Check oil level/condition, coolant level, fuel in tank, battery voltage (12.6V+ preferred). Recharge if low.
- Pitfalls: Ignoring simple things (empty fuel, corroded battery terminals) wastes time.

2) Fuel system check (applies to petrol and diesel; follow the branch for your engine)
- Tools: fuel pressure gauge / inline inspection, hand pump or siphon for bleeding, new fuel filter.
- Petrol: Check fuel flows from tank to carburettor. Replace fuel filter, inspect fuel tap/strainer. Remove and inspect carb float bowl for varnish/debris. Clean jets with carb cleaner; blow compressed air through jets. Reassemble, set float and idle according to manual.
- Diesel: Check fuel supply and bleed air from lines. Replace primary filter/water trap. Crank and observe injector return lines for steady supply; test injection pump for delivery and timing. Use nozzle tester to check spray pattern and leakage from each injector.
- How tools are used: Attach fuel gauge inline to detect pressure/flow; for carbs, spray carb cleaner into passages and use small wire/air to clear jets; for injectors connect nozzle tester and pump up to operating pressure to observe spray.
- Pitfalls: Not bleeding air from diesel lines, using wrong grade fuel, reusing blocked filters.

3) Air intake and exhaust
- Tools: inspection mirror, compressed air.
- Check air filter element and housing for blockages; clean or replace. Inspect exhaust for restrictions and check for white/black smoke during run (indicates incorrect mixture or combustion issues).
- Pitfall: Removing air filter without adequate protection during testing, leading to engine damage from debris.

4) Compression test (all engines)
- Tools: compression tester, socket to remove plugs/injectors, helper to crank or remote starter.
- Procedure: Warm engine slightly (follow manufacturer), disable ignition (petrol: disconnect coil/disable spark; diesel: disable fuel pump or shut off injection), remove all spark plugs/injector lines, screw compression tester into one cylinder, fully open throttle, crank engine 4–6 compression strokes at full starter speed and record PSI. Repeat for all cylinders.
- Interpretation: Cylinders should be within ~10–15% of each other. Compare to manual spec. For older petrol side‑valve engines you might expect moderate PSI; diesels should be much higher. If low compression:
- Add a small amount of oil into the cylinder and repeat—if compression improves, piston rings are worn; if not, suspect valves/seat or head gasket.
- Pitfalls: Testing with throttle closed will give low readings; incorrect disabling of ignition causing sparks; misreading gauge.

5) Leak‑down test (if compression low)
- Tools: leak-down tester, compressed air (regulated).
- Procedure: Bring cylinder to TDC on compression stroke, attach tester, pressurize to 80–100 psi. Listen and locate leaks: intake (air out carb), exhaust (air at tailpipe), crankcase (air at oil filler or dipstick), or adjacent cylinders/head gasket.
- Pitfall: Incorrect TDC position gives misleading results.

6) Ignition system (petrol engines only)
- Tools: spark tester, timing light, multimeter, feeler gauges.
- Steps:
- Check spark at plugs using spark tester while cranking: consistent strong blue spark is correct. No spark -> check coil primary/secondary resistance with multimeter, breaker points (if used), condenser, wiring, and distributor cap/rotor.
- Check and set ignition timing: attach timing light to #1 spark lead, run engine to specified rpm, point to timing marks on flywheel or crankshaft and compare to spec. Adjust distributor/coil timing as required.
- Check and set dwell/points gap (if points ignition) with feeler gauge per spec.
- Pitfalls: Using a timing light incorrectly (clamp on wrong lead), ignoring worn distributor cap/cracked rotor.

7) Valve clearance and mechanical timing
- Tools: feeler gauge, socket set, torque wrench.
- Side-valve engines (common on older TE tractors): Remove valve cover, rotate engine to TDC for each cylinder, measure clearances and adjust shims/rocker as required to spec. Check camshaft and pushrod condition.
- Pitfalls: Adjusting when engine hot if specs are for cold; incorrect torque on cover; mixing up shim locations.

8) Cooling and lubrication checks
- Tools: pressure tester (cooling), inspection.
- Check radiator for blockage, thermostat operation, fan belt tension. Inspect oil pressure: connect oil pressure gauge to oil gallery (if available) and measure at idle and higher rpm; compare to spec. Low oil pressure could indicate worn bearings or pump.
- Pitfalls: Running without thermostat when one is required for warm‑up; poor oil, wrong grade.

9) Running diagnosis and smoke/color clues
- Black smoke: rich mixture/fuel, clogged air filter, faulty carb/overfueling.
- White smoke: coolant in combustion (head gasket), or unburned diesel when cold.
- Blue smoke: burning oil—worn rings/valves.
- Use these to prioritize further tests (compression, head gasket test, oil analysis).

10) Injection pump & injector specifics (diesel)
- Tools: nozzle tester, pump timing rig, feeler/torque tools.
- Check nozzle spray pattern and opening pressure; replace leaking or poor‑spray nozzles. Check pump timing—advance/retard using timing marks; if pump worn or out of calibration, overhaul or replace. Replace hard seals/lines if cracked.
- Pitfalls: Incorrect pump timing destroys performance; reusing worn injectors causes rough running.

When replacement is required — common parts and when to replace
- Spark plugs: replace if fouled, eroded, or gap out of spec.
- Ignition points/condenser or electronic conversion: if weak spark or intermittent firing.
- Fuel filter and hoses: replace when dirty, cracked, or at service intervals.
- Carburettor rebuild kit: if cleaning doesn’t restore performance (worn float valve, warped body).
- Injectors/nozzles or pump overhaul: if nozzles leak, poor spray, or pump timing/delivery out of spec.
- Head gasket or valves: if leak-down points to head gasket or valves that don’t seal; replace after machine shop work/regrind.
- Piston rings/cylinders: if compression tests and oil consumption indicate ring wear—requires major engine work.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not confirming basics first: battery, fuel, air—these are most common faults.
- Replacing parts without testing: always test (compression, spark, fuel) before replacing major items.
- Improper bleeding of diesel lines -> air causing no-start or roughness.
- Incorrect timing after reassembly: mark components before removal or photograph positions.
- Over‑torquing or under‑torquing fasteners: use torque wrench and correct values.
- Ignoring safety: fuel spills and running engines in unventilated areas are dangerous.
- Using incorrect parts or modern fuels that are incompatible with older seals/gaskets—use recommended fuel or proper additives if needed.

Quick tool-use notes (how each key tool is used)
- Compression tester: Screw into plug hole, crank engine with throttle open, record max PSI. Use same procedure per cylinder.
- Leak-down tester: Bring cylinder to TDC, attach tester, regulate to 80–100 psi, observe percentage leak and location of escaping air.
- Timing light: Clamp inductive pickup on #1 spark lead, aim light at timing marks while engine runs; marks should align per spec at idle or specified RPM.
- Spark tester: Inline between plug and lead, crank engine; visible spark indicates ignition system working.
- Fuel/nozzle tester (diesel): Attach nozzle to tester, connect pump or hand pump, pressurize to opening pressure, observe spray pattern and check for drips/leakage.

Finish & follow-up actions (no questions asked)
- After making repairs, re-run the full checks: compression, ignition/timing, fuel flow, and idle/run behavior. Road/field-test under load.
- Keep records of measured values and parts replaced.
- If tests indicate major engine wear (bad compression across cylinders, metal in oil), plan for engine overhaul or professional machine shop service.

End.
rteeqp73

1947 Ferguson TE-20 2.1 Litre 4-Cyl Petrol Tractor (28HP) 1947 Ferguson TE-20 2.1 Litre 4-Cyl Petrol Tractor (28HP) The Newark Vintage Tractor & Heritage Show 2021 - Newark and ...

how tractor draft control work .. massey 35x working a draft control on a 1963 massey ferguson 35x.

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