Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: sockets, ratchet, extensions, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (calibrated, appropriate range).
- Breaker bar, impact or long lever for seized nuts.
- Engine support/hoist or sturdy jack + axle stands (if removing engine).
- Drain pan, shop rags, parts trays, marker/paint for match‑marking.
- Clean solvent, lint‑free rags, gasket scraper.
- Plastigage (multiple thicknesses) or a micrometer + bore gauge to measure clearances.
- Outside micrometer or calipers (0.01 mm or 0.001" resolution).
- Telescoping gauge + micrometer or dial bore gauge for rod bores.
- Fine file or stone for minor burr removal.
- Assembly lube or engine oil.
- Replacement rod bearing shells (original spec sizes and undersizes), rod caps/rod bolts if required, new oil pan gasket, oil & filter.
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, hearing protection.
- Compression stopper or method to prevent piston from falling if removing rod cap (wooden dowel in spark plug hole or hold piston at TDC with crank turned).

Safety precautions (do these first)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, set handbrake.
- Disconnect battery.
- Drain engine oil into pan; drain coolant if engine removal required.
- Support tractor safely on stands if lifting; never rely on a jack only.
- Keep work area clean and well lit; avoid contaminants entering engine.

Overview of process
You will remove the oil pan (or remove engine if you prefer), remove rod caps one rod at a time, inspect and measure crankshaft journals and rod bores, fit correct bearing shells or undersize shells as required, install bearings with assembly lube, torque rod bolts to spec, check clearances (Plastigage or micrometer), rotate engine to ensure smoothness, reassemble oil pan and ancillary items, refill oil and test.

Step‑by‑step (concise)
1) Preparation
- Obtain the TE‑20 workshop manual for exact torque figures and bearing clearance specs for your serial/model.
- Order a complete set of new connecting rod bearing shells for the engine (matching main bearings if you’re doing a full job). Have extra shells in undersize (.001", .002", .010" etc) if crank journals are worn.
- Clean work area and lay out tools/parts trays. Label each rod and cap (number them in engine order and mark cap orientation).

2) Access
- Remove hood and any obstructions.
- Drain oil and remove oil pan. On TE‑20 you can often do rod bearings with engine in tractor — oil pan removal required.
- Clean oil pan and pickup area; inspect pickup screen for metal shavings.

3) Marking & piston position
- Rotate engine so the rod you’ll work on is at the bottom of stroke (to avoid piston falling) or use a wooden dowel in the spark plug hole to hold piston near TDC when cap is removed.
- Mark each rod and cap with a permanent marker or paint so they go back exactly as removed. Also mark cap orientation (arrow/tang faces which way).

4) Remove rod cap
- Loosen nuts/bolts gradually; remove cap. Keep bearings shells with cap if they come out intact—do not mix shells between caps/rods.
- Carefully pry off old shells; note whether shells show localized wear or scoring.

5) Inspect & measure
- Visually inspect crank journal for scoring, discoloration, or burn marks. Light scratches can sometimes be polished; deep scores require crankshaft regrind.
- Measure crank journal diameter with micrometer at multiple positions to check out-of-round/taper.
- Measure rod bore (inside of rod big‑end) with telescoping gauge + micrometer or dial bore gauge.
- Calculate bearing clearance: journal diameter subtracted from rod bore. Target clearance from manual (common small‑engine values 0.001"–0.003" (0.025–0.08 mm) for rod bearings) — use manual.
- If journals are undersized (worn) you will need undersize bearings or crankshaft regrind. If journal damage is severe, crankshaft grinding and matching undersize shells (and possible rod reboring) required.

6) Selecting replacement bearings
- Choose bearing shells to produce correct oil clearance. Bearings come in standard and undersize (often labeled 0, .010, .020 etc or metric).
- Also check bearing shell thickness tolerance and rod cap fit; shell tangs must seat in grooves.

7) Installation technique (using Plastigage to check clearance)
- Clean journals and rod bores thoroughly, no oil/grease on the surfaces where Plastigage will be used.
- Place a single narrow strip of Plastigage lengthwise on the journal (one strip per journal).
- Fit new bearing shells dry into rod and cap (do not oil) ensuring tangs seat and edges flush. Put a small dab of engine oil or assembly lube on the bearing surface AFTER Plastigage is placed on the journal? — For Plastigage method, DO NOT oil the bearing seating surfaces or Plastigage area; follow Plastigage instructions (usually place strip on journal and install cap; light oil elsewhere is OK). Check Plastigage packaging and manual.
- Install cap, hand‑tighten nuts, then torque to final specified torque in one shot (or as manual prescribes) — do NOT attempt to rotate the crank with Plastigage installed.
- Remove cap carefully. The Plastigage will be flattened. Measure width against Plastigage gauge card to get clearance. Compare to spec.
- If clearance is within spec, clean all Plastigage residue, apply assembly lube to bearing surfaces, reinstall cap and torque to spec.
- If clearance is too tight: do not run engine; you must fit thinner bearing shells (undersize). If too loose: either oversized journal/regrind or thicker shells required.

8) Reassembly detail
- Replace rod bolts if they are stretch/torque‑to‑yield style or if specified by manual—best practice is to fit new bolts if removed.
- Use assembly lube on bearing surfaces when final installing.
- Torque rod caps to manufacturer spec and follow any angle/sequence procedures.
- After torquing each rod, rotate crank by hand to ensure smooth, free movement — no tight spots. If any tightness, immediate disassembly and recheck.

9) Final checks and reassembly
- Reinstall oil pan with new gasket and sealant where required.
- Replace oil filter (if fitted) and refill with correct oil quantity and grade.
- Prime oiling system before first start: crank engine without spark or fuel to build oil pressure (or use manual primer) — ensure oil pressure gauge works.
- Start engine, listen for knocks, check oil pressure and leaks. If knocking or low oil pressure, shut down immediately.

How the specific tools are used
- Plastigage: place on clean journal, assemble cap, torque, disassemble, measure flattened width on supplied chart to read clearance.
- Micrometer + dial bore gauge: micrometer measures crank journal diameter; dial bore gauge measures rod big‑end bore; subtraction gives clearance. Use multiple readings at 90° increments to check roundness/taper.
- Torque wrench: tighten rod bolts/nuts to exact torque in one pass unless manual calls for staged torque/angle. Use correct socket and torque wrench setting.

Replacement parts commonly required
- New rod bearing shells (complete set). Buy quality OE or equivalent shells sized correctly.
- Rod bolts/nuts (recommended replacement if old or torque‑to‑yield).
- Oil pan gasket and any sealing compounds.
- Engine oil and filter.
- Possible crankshaft undersize machining and new matching bearings if journals are worn beyond limits.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not marking rods/caps: leads to misalignment and bearing failure. Mark every cap/rod.
- Using wrong size shells or mixing shells between journals: always match shell ID with original location.
- Dirty assembly: contaminants will destroy bearings quickly. Keep everything clean and lint‑free.
- Not checking crank journals for taper/roundness: a tight clearance at one location can cause failure.
- Over‑ or under‑torquing bolts: always use torque wrench and follow manual. Reuse old bolts only if allowed.
- Not priming oil pump before start: initial dry start can damage bearings.
- Misreading Plastigage: use the Plastigage gauge card and read at the widest flattened point perpendicular to strip orientation.
- Reinstalling caps reversed or upside down: leads to misfit and possible damage. Match mark orientation.
- Not replacing pickup screen or not cleaning oil passages: metal debris can recirculate and fail the new bearings.

Final notes
- Exact bearing clearance specs and rod bolt torque values vary by engine serial and must be taken from a TE‑20 workshop manual. If crank journals require grinding, have a machine shop perform it and supply properly sized undersize bearings.
- If you are not confident measuring journal diameters or interpreting results, have the crank measured by a reputable machine shop.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

1949 Ferguson TE20 Starter Switch and 12 Volt Rewire Gord's Ferguson is back in the shop for some electrical TLC.

How to drive Ferguson TED20 This is how to drive a Ferguson Ted20.

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