Tools & PPE
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, ear protection, respirator for cutting/sanding, long-sleeve coveralls.
- Jack, jack stands or lift, wheel chocks.
- Socket set (metric), deep sockets, ratchet, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench.
- Impact wrench (optional) — use carefully.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar).
- Oxygen sensor socket (22 mm/hex style) or 7/8" depending on sensor.
- Exhaust hanger pliers or large pry bar.
- Reciprocating saw with metal blade or angle grinder with cut-off wheel (for seized flanges).
- Metal wire brush.
- Heat shield pliers/wrenches.
- Pry bar, rubber mallet.
- Exhaust flange alignment tool (or long bolt) / jack or transmission jack to support cat.
- Anti-seize compound (high-temp) for threads.
- New gaskets, new flange bolts/studs/nuts or exhaust clamps (see Parts).
- Replacement catalytic converter assembly (correct part for Perkins 3.152 application).
- Waste container for old cat (regulated material).

Safety precautions (must-do)
1. Work only when engine/exhaust is cool. Hot exhaust will cause severe burns.
2. Disconnect battery negative to avoid electrical shorts while loosening sensors.
3. Block wheels, use jack stands or a lift — never support vehicle by jack alone.
4. Ventilated area; do not run engine in a closed shop without exhaust extraction.
5. Use respirator and eye protection when cutting or grinding; catalytic substrates can be hazardous.
6. Be aware of local laws: removing or altering emission control devices may be illegal.

Parts required
- Correct OEM or approved aftermarket catalytic converter for your machine/vehicle that uses a Perkins 3.152.
- New exhaust flange gaskets (manifold-to-cat and cat-to-downpipe as applicable).
- Replacement studs/bolts/nuts or exhaust clamps (don’t reuse corroded hardware).
- New oxygen sensor(s) if sensor damaged or if fitment requires.
- Heat shields/hanger hardware if damaged.

Step-by-step replacement
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Allow engine/exhaust to cool completely.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands or use a lift.

2. Locate and inspect
- Trace exhaust from manifold to find catalytic converter assembly (may be integral with muffler or inline). Note mounting points, hangers, O2 sensor(s) location, heat shields.
- Take photos/mark orientation for correct re-install.

3. Apply penetrating oil
- Spray all flange bolts/studs and hangar mounts; let soak 15–30 minutes. Repeat for stubborn corrosion.

4. Remove oxygen sensor(s)
- Use oxygen sensor socket to remove sensors first. Turn anti-clockwise. Protect wiring. Note sensor positions for re-install; label wires if multiple.

5. Support the converter
- Position a jack or transmission jack under the converter to support its weight before removing any mounts.

6. Remove hangers and fasteners
- Use hanger pliers/pry bar to free rubber hangers.
- Remove flange bolts/nuts. Use breaker bar or impact carefully to break loose. If bolts spin on studs, hold with second wrench.
- If bolts/studs are seized, apply more penetrating oil and heat (careful — no fuel lines nearby). If still seized, cut the bolts/studs with a reciprocating saw or grinder. Use controlled cuts and protect surrounding parts.

7. Extract old catalytic converter
- Lower the supported converter and remove from vehicle. Be careful — old cat can be heavy and fragile. Avoid dropping to prevent substrate breakage.

8. Inspect mating surfaces and sensors
- Clean flange faces with wire brush. Remove carbon build-up. Inspect exhaust manifold/downpipe flanges for warping/cracks.
- Inspect O2 sensor threads and wiring. Replace sensors if corroded or damaged.

9. Prepare new converter
- Transfer any brackets, heat shields or sensors from old to new if required.
- Fit new gaskets and new bolts/studs/clamps as required.
- Apply a light coat of high-temp anti-seize to bolt threads (do not put anti-seize on gasket surfaces). For O2 sensor threads use anti-seize sparingly unless sensor already pre-coated.

10. Install new converter
- Lift new converter into place with jack. Align flanges; use alignment tool or long bolt to hold flange faces together.
- Hand-start bolts/nuts to ensure correct threading.
- Tighten in a criss-cross pattern to seat flange evenly. Final tighten with torque wrench to manufacturer spec. If spec unavailable, tighten snugly and evenly — do not over-torque (consult service manual for exact Nm).

11. Reinstall oxygen sensor(s)
- Screw O2 sensors back in with sensor socket. Tighten to spec or snug; do not over-torque. Reconnect wiring.

12. Reattach hangers and heat shields
- Refit rubber hangers and heat shields. Ensure exhaust has no tension or misalignment that will stress flanges.

13. Final checks
- Lower vehicle.
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and listen for leaks at flanges and joints. Check for exhaust leaks by feeling (with caution) for escaping gases or using a rag tied to a stick to detect flow (do not put hands near moving parts).
- Scan for codes and clear any P0420/P0430 or related OBD codes. Some ECUs require a drive cycle or catalytic monitor reset.

14. Test drive & recheck
- Short test drive to operating temperature; then recheck torque on bolts and inspect for leaks or rattles. Re-scan for codes after drive.

How each tool is used (quick reference)
- Penetrating oil: soak seized hardware to free threads.
- Breaker bar: initial force to break loose corroded nuts; use with care.
- Impact wrench: speeds removal; risk of snapping studs — use lower torque and second wrench where needed.
- O2 sensor socket: fits around sensor wiring, allows safe removal without damaging harness.
- Reciprocating saw / grinder: cut severely corroded bolts/flange where removal isn’t possible. Use heat shields and shielding to protect wiring and fuel lines.
- Torque wrench: final tightening to specified torque to avoid leaks or broken bolts.
- Exhaust hanger pliers/pry bar: detach/install rubber hangers.
- Jack/ transmission jack: supports converter weight during removal/installation.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Snapped studs/bolts: prevent by soaking with penetrating oil, using heat, and supporting flange to avoid twisting. If snapped, remove studs with extractor or drill out carefully.
- Forgetting new gaskets/hardware: always install new gaskets and hardware — reusing corroded parts causes leaks.
- Damaging O2 sensor: use correct sensor socket; avoid catching wires in saw/grinder.
- Misalignment/stressed exhaust: support assembly while tightening; ensure hangers aligned so no strain on flanges.
- Over-torquing or under-torquing bolts: consult service manual for torque; tighten evenly.
- Confusing DPF/DPF regeneration components with catalytic converter: diesel particulate filters and SCR systems are different — ensure correct replacement part, or you may get poor performance or legal issues.
- Improper disposal: catalytic converters contain regulated and valuable materials — dispose per local regulations or sell to authorized recycling.

Notes & legal
- Use the exact fit catalytic converter specified for the vehicle/machine’s application. If the converter has integral sensors (temp, pressure), transfer or replace those as needed.
- Tampering/removing emission controls can be illegal in many jurisdictions — ensure compliance.

That is the full practical procedure — follow manufacturer torque specs and service manual details where available.
rteeqp73

Cold Start Perkins 3.152 Turbo Diesel

Machining and Rebuilding A 152 Cubic Inch Perkins Diesel Engine In Under 20 Mins? Okay, maybe it took more than 20 minutes... But I can show you in less than 20 minutes! This quick video shows the machine work ...

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