- Safety first, brief and mandatory:
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; brake fluid is corrosive to paint and skin.
- Work on a level surface, use quality jack stands (never rely on a jack alone), chock wheels, and disconnect the battery if you remove the starter or remove/shift the transmission.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby if you’re working with fluids and tools.
- Consult the factory service manual for your exact vehicle model for torque values and any model-specific steps.

- Quick overview of what “hydraulic clutch repair” covers:
- Diagnose the system (pedal feel, visible leaks, fluid level).
- Replace or rebuild the master cylinder or slave cylinder if leaking or seals are bad.
- Replace damaged hydraulic lines or fittings.
- Properly bleed the system to remove air.
- If hydraulic components are OK but the pedal is still bad, the clutch mechanicals (release bearing, pressure plate, disc) may need removal — that requires transmission removal.

- Basic tool list with detailed descriptions and how to use each (no assumptions about prior experience):
- Combination wrenches (open-end and box-end): use the correct size on nuts/bolts; fit the box-end fully to avoid rounding heads; open end for tight spaces. Keep steady force, pull rather than push when practical.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (metric sizes common on Toyotas): choose a socket that fully seats on the nut, use extensions to reach recessed bolts, apply steady controlled force. Use breaker bar for stubborn bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type): required to tighten bolts to factory torque; set desired torque, snug bolt, then apply until you hear/feel click. Important for transmission bellhousing bolts, master/slave mounting bolts.
- Flare-nut wrench (line wrench): grips more of the hydraulic fitting than an open wrench to avoid rounding the soft hydraulic nuts; use this on master/slave hydraulic line fittings and banjo bolts.
- Pliers (needle-nose, slip-joint): use for clips and retaining rings; be careful not to cut or deform lines.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): for clips, caps, and removing fasteners. Use correct size to avoid camming out.
- Brake/clutch fluid catch bottle and clear nylon tubing: slip tubing over the bleed nipple to direct fluid into bottle; keeps mess contained and lets you see air bubbles while bleeding.
- Turkey baster or hand pump (syringe) and funnel: to remove old fluid from reservoir and refill with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid.
- Bleeder/aspirator hand pump or one-person vacuum/pressure bleeder: a hand vacuum pump or a pressure bleeder drastically simplifies bleeding; vacuum pump pulls fluid through bleed nipple, pressure bleeder forces fluid from reservoir. Use as instructed for clear bleeding.
- Jack and two jack stands (rated for vehicle): raise vehicle using manufacturer jacking point; place stands under recommended support points; lower jack until weight is on stands.
- Wheel chocks: prevent vehicle movement while jacked.
- Hammer and soft drift or punch: for stubborn retaining pins or parts; tap gently to avoid damage.
- Bench vise (optional but useful if rebuilding master/slave or bench-bleeding replacement master): hold cylinder securely while pressing pistons or installing seals.
- Line clamp or locking pliers with rubber jaws (to clamp hose during fluid changes): use to prevent fluid loss when disconnecting lines.
- Clean rags and brake cleaner: clean mating surfaces and spilled fluids. Brake cleaner evaporates quickly and degreases.
- Replacement parts or rebuild kit (see parts section below): have parts on hand before you start.
- Shop manual or repair guide: contains step sequences, connector locations, torque specs — essential.

- Extra/optional tools and why they are useful:
- Pressure bleeder: speeds bleeding and helps remove trapped air, especially useful if system has been opened or contains a lot of air.
- Transmission jack (if you must remove transmission to access concentric slave or clutch assembly): safe, stable support for heavy transmission removal and reinstallation. Required if clutch/flywheel or internal concentric slave must be replaced.
- Impact driver or impact wrench: speeds removal of tight bolts, but don’t use for final torque.
- Caliper/line flaring tool only if you need to make or repair metal hydraulic lines (rare; usually replace flexible hose instead).
- Digital camera or phone: take photos of connections and routing before removal to aid reassembly.

- Diagnosis (what to check and why):
- Check reservoir fluid level and color: low level or dark fluid indicates leaks or contaminated fluid.
- Inspect under vehicle and bellhousing for fluid leaks: external slave or line leak shows visible wetness; master cylinder leak usually near firewall/reservoir.
- Pedal feel:
- Soft/spongy pedal that doesn’t firm up after bleeding → likely internal master/slave seal failure or heavy air pockets.
- Pedal goes to floor and doesn’t return → leak, bad master/slave or stuck piston.
- If visible leaks or pedal problems exist, plan to replace or rebuild the leaking component(s).

- Common parts that often need replacement and why:
- Clutch master cylinder (rebuild kit or full replacement): seals wear with age or contamination; internal leaks (bypass of seals) cause inability to build pressure and spongy pedal. Replace if leaking or if bleeding cannot restore firm pedal.
- Slave cylinder (external or concentric internal): external slave seals leak; concentric slave (inside bellhousing on many models) may fail and requires transmission removal. Replace if leaking or sticking.
- Hydraulic hose/line: rubber hoses age, swell, or crack causing internal collapse or external leak. Replace if soft, cracked, or leaking.
- Banjo bolts and crush washers (if used): crush washers should be replaced when disturbing banjo fittings to ensure a tight seal.
- Reservoir cap and diaphragm: keep moisture out; replace if degraded.
- Brake/clutch fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4): absorbs moisture over time; always flush and refill with fresh fluid when servicing hydraulics.
- Clutch assembly (disc, pressure plate, release bearing): replace only if clutch slipping, noisy release bearings, or when transmission is removed for concentric slave replacement — heavy wear or scoring requires replacement.
- Rebuild kits: for master/slave, include new seals/pistons if you prefer rebuilding vs buying new; kits are cheaper but require careful bench work and cleanliness.

- How to replace a leaking external master cylinder (general flow):
- Remove excess fluid from reservoir with turkey baster; cap to minimize contamination.
- Place catch bottle under fittings, loosen hydraulic lines with flare-nut wrench, plug lines or cap to prevent contamination.
- Unbolt master cylinder from firewall with appropriate socket/wrench, support assembly as you remove it.
- Transfer reservoir if bolted-on or replace entire assembly if internal corrosion present.
- Install new or rebuilt master cylinder: mount to firewall and torque bolts to spec (consult manual).
- Reattach hydraulic line fittings with new crush washers/banjo bolt if applicable; tighten with flare-nut wrench then final torque per manual.
- Fill reservoir with fresh DOT 3/4 fluid, bench-bleed master if required (bench bleeding: connect short hoses from bleed ports back into reservoir and pump piston slowly until no bubbles).
- Reconnect lines, bleed system at slave cylinder until fluid runs clear and bubble-free (use one-person pump/hold method or vacuum/pressure bleeder).
- Check pedal firmness and for leaks.

- How to replace a leaking external slave cylinder (general flow):
- Support transmission if required (on some models remove small supports/panels for access).
- Catch fluid and disconnect hydraulic line with flare-nut wrench; replace crush washer.
- Unbolt slave cylinder from bellhousing; remove.
- Clean mounting surface, install new slave cylinder and torque bolts to spec.
- Reattach hydraulic line, fill reservoir, bleed until no air and pedal firm.
- Inspect release fork and pivot for wear while slave removed; grease pivot points lightly if appropriate.

- How to deal with a concentric slave (inside bellhousing) — overview (this is advanced):
- Transmission removal required: disconnect driveshafts, starter, linkages, electrical connectors, mark alignment, support engine if needed.
- Use transmission jack to support and remove transmission.
- Replace concentric slave or its seals/bushing per service manual. This job often necessitates clutch inspection and likely clutch replacement because the transmission must be removed anyway.
- Reinstall transmission, torque all bolts to spec, reconnect everything, bleed hydraulics, test.

- Bleeding procedure (straightforward method if you’re a beginner):
- Top up master reservoir with clean fluid. Never reuse old dirty fluid.
- Have a helper press and hold the clutch pedal fully down (or use a pedal depressor tool) while you open bleed nipple slightly with a wrench and let fluid run into bottle/tubing until flow slows, then close nipple before pedal released. Repeat until no bubbles, then tighten nipple.
- If working alone, use a vacuum bleeder on the slave bleed nipple to pull fluid while you pump the pedal slowly; or use a pressure bleeder on reservoir to push fluid out.
- Keep reservoir topped up during bleeding to avoid drawing air back into the system.
- Final check: pedal should be firm and consistent. Inspect for leaks.

- Troubleshooting after repair:
- Pedal still spongy: re-bleed carefully (air remains), check for leaks, replace suspected faulty cylinder.
- Pedal goes to floor with no pressure: internal master cylinder leak — replace master.
- Fluid level consistently drops: external leak or leak into bellhousing (clutch disc wear can allow fluid into clutch area only if slave inside bellhousing leaking).
- Clutch slipping or noise: likely mechanical clutch wear — requires transmission removal and clutch replacement.

- Parts procurement guidance:
- Buy OEM or quality aftermarket master/slave cylinders that match your engine/vehicle VIN; part numbers vary by year and model — use the vehicle’s VIN or consult local parts store/online fitment.
- For concentric slaves or clutch kits, get a complete clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing) if you’re removing transmission — cheaper and advisable to replace all at once.
- Always replace crush washers/banjo bolt hardware and use fresh DOT correct fluid.

- Disposal and cleanup:
- Dispose of old brake fluid and contaminated rags per local hazardous-waste regulations.
- Avoid spilling fluid on painted surfaces; wash immediately with water and apply mild detergent if spilled.

- Final test and road check:
- With vehicle still on stands, start engine and press pedal to check engagement point and travel (if safe and recommended by manual).
- Re-check for leaks after a short test drive and after a few days of use. Re-torque any accessible fasteners after initial test per manual.

- Quick, essential reminders:
- Use flare-nut wrench on hydraulic fittings to avoid rounding.
- Replace crush washers/banjo bolts when disturbed.
- Always bench-bleed a new master before installation if required.
- Use correct DOT fluid and keep reservoir closed to avoid moisture contamination.
- Consult the vehicle-specific service manual for bolt torques and model-specific details.

- If you want the shortest safe plan to follow (no extra steps): replace leaking master or slave with a new unit, bench-bleed master, connect lines with new crush washers, bleed the system thoroughly with a vacuum or helper, test pedal and check for leaks.
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