Short, ordered procedure with the underlying theory so you understand why each action is done and how it fixes the fault.

1) Theory — what the wheel bearing does and how it fails
- Function: supports the wheel/rotor assembly on the spindle/knuckle, allows low-friction rotation under radial and axial loads, maintains concentricity (minimizes runout) and transmits wheel speed signal to ABS tone ring if present.
- Types: common on Toyotas — integrated hub/bearing assembly (sealed unit with outer flange) or separate inner/outer bearings with races. Integrated assemblies are preloaded at manufacture; separate bearings require preload/shims or an adjustable nut.
- Failure modes: roller/pitch surface wear, cage damage, race pitting, grease breakdown, contamination, or excessive axial/radial load. Results: growling/grinding noise, increased play (wheel runout), heat, ABS faults, uneven tire wear, steering vibration.
- What replacement fixes: restores correct rolling surfaces, bearings preloaded and lubricated, eliminates excess clearance and heat/friction, restores concentricity and correct ABS tone ring position.

2) Safety and prep (why)
- Use jack stands on a level surface, chock opposite wheels. Safety prevents collapse and allows safe torqueing.
- Gather tools: wheel wrench, jack, stands, breaker bar, torque wrench, socket set, hex/allen for caliper, socket for hub or axle nut, punch/drift or puller, hydraulic press or hub puller if needed, new bearing/hub assembly, grease (if required), replacement cotter pin/axle nut/bolts as required. Have factory service manual for torque and procedures.
- Why: correct tools and specs prevent damage and ensure correct preload/torque.

3) In-order mechanical steps with theory explanations
a) Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly while car is on ground
- Theory: prevents wheel from spinning when loosening.

b) Lift car and securely support on jack stands; remove wheel
- Access to brakes/hub.

c) Remove brake caliper and hang it with wire; remove caliper bracket if necessary
- Theory: clears rotor and hub. Don’t let caliper hang on hose — protects brake lines.

d) Remove rotor (if rotor stuck, use bolts or gentle strikes on hat) and inspect
- Theory: exposes hub assembly and wheel studs; rotor removal avoids interfering with hub removal.

e) Disconnect ABS sensor/wiring and remove any dust caps/cotter pins
- Theory: protects ABS wiring and allows removal of hub or axle nut; ABS tone ring must remain intact and concentric.

f) Remove axle nut / hub nut (if front-drive with CV axle) or remove hub retaining bolts
- Theory: axle/hub nut preloads bearings on some designs; removing it frees hub from spindle. Keep track of any cotter pins, locking tabs.

g) Unbolt the hub assembly from knuckle or press out the bearing (depending on design)
- If integrated hub assembly: remove bolts from back of knuckle and pull hub out. If corroded, use a puller or penetrating oil; hitting the hub across the flange risks damage — use correct puller.
- If pressed bearing type: remove hub/rotor, press bearing out of knuckle using hydraulic press. When pressing, always press on the race that you’re moving; never press through the bearing rollers — use appropriate sleeves so force goes on the race you want to move. This prevents brinelling or race damage.
- Theory: correct extraction avoids damaging the knuckle or new bearing seating surfaces.

h) Clean knuckle bore and inspect for damage, corrosion, nicks, and flatness
- Theory: the mating surface must be clean and true for the new bearing to seat concentrically. Burrs produce runout and premature failure.

i) Install new bearing/hub
- For integrated sealed hub: slide unit into knuckle, align, seat fully, torque hub bolts to factory spec.
- For pressed bearing: press new outer/inner race in using appropriate adapters so the press force acts on the race being installed, not on the rollers. Install hub and any shims/seals per service manual.
- Theory: correct seating ensures concentric rotation and correct preload. Using the wrong pressing force crushes rollers or races, creating noise and early failure.

j) Reassemble axle nut/retaining hardware with correct preload/torque
- Some designs require a specific torque sequence: initial torque while rotating to set preload, then back-off or stake nut per manual; others are single-torque hub nuts torqued to spec and cotter pinned.
- Theory: preload eliminates free play without overloading bearings. Too loose causes play and rapid wear; too tight causes overheating and failure.

k) Reattach ABS sensor, caliper bracket, brake caliper, and rotor; torque fasteners to spec
- Theory: correct torque prevents loosening and maintains alignment. Check ABS sensor gap is correct.

l) Refit wheel, lower car, torque wheel lugs to spec, and if applicable torque axle/hub nut final spec
- Theory: correct wheel torque prevents rotor distortion and wheel loosening.

4) Final checks and test
- Check lateral play at wheel (no perceptible play). Spin wheel by hand; listen for roughness.
- Road-test at low speed then higher; listen for noise, check steering vibration, ABS behavior.
- After short drives, re-torque lug nuts and axle/hub nut if service manual requires.
- Break-in: some bearings/hub assemblies need light driving for initial seating; avoid heavy loads for first 50–100 miles.

5) Practical tips tied to theory
- Always replace both sides if one is worn only when wear pattern suggests long service life left on the other? Theory: bearings often wear under similar conditions, but it’s acceptable to replace only the failed unit if the opposite shows solid condition; replacing both ensures matched life.
- Never hammer bearing into place without proper drift — risk of brinelling and race damage.
- Use correct lubricants if non-sealed bearings: fill to manufacturer spec; too much grease heats up, too little starves rollers.
- Replace hub/axle nut and cotter pin every time if single-use. A compromised locking method risks nut backing off and catastrophic failure.

6) How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Replacing the worn bearing removes damaged rollers/races and eliminates excess radial/axial clearance. A new bearing restores correct rolling contact and lubrication, reducing friction, stopping growling/grinding, removing wheel play and runout, and restoring correct ABS tone-ring position. Proper torque/preload and seating ensure load is distributed correctly across rollers and cup, preventing immediate recurrence.

7) What to watch for after repair
- Any noise returning, vibration, or ABS faults indicates installation error (misaligned tone ring, improper preload, damaged knuckle bore). Re-check torque, seating, and ABS sensor alignment.

Use the Toyota factory service manual for exact torque and preload procedures for the specific 2Z vehicle variant. That ensures correct torque values and any model-specific steps (e.g., axle nut staking, shims, or special removal tools).
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