- Safety first — do this work only on a flat level surface with wheel chocks, safety glasses, gloves, and jack stands. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting any work on the transmission/clutch area.

Tools and exactly how to use them
- Floor jack (2‑ton or greater) — used to lift the vehicle and to support the transmission during removal. Place under the manufacturer‑recommended jacking points and lift slowly. Use a block of wood on the jack saddle under the transmission pan or bellhousing to spread the load and avoid damage.
- Jack stands (pair) — support the car after lifting. Always lower the vehicle onto jack stands and never rely on the jack alone. Position stands on solid pinch welds or lift points.
- Wheel chocks — keep the vehicle from rolling when one end is lifted. Place behind and in front of wheels remaining on the ground.
- Wheel lug wrench or impact wrench (with correct sockets) — to remove wheels. Break lugs loose before jacking the car; tighten/torque wheels after reassembly.
- Full metric socket set (incl. deep sockets) and ratchet — for bellhousing bolts, transmission bolts, clutch cover bolts, driveshaft/axle nuts, starter, etc. Use the correct size; a loose fit will round bolts.
- Breaker bar (18–24") — for stubborn bolts and axle nuts. A breaker bar gives leverage so you don’t apply unsafe force with a short ratchet.
- Torque wrench (metric, click‑type, 0–200 ft·lb range recommended) — to tighten bolts to factory torque specs (bellhousing, pressure plate, axle nuts, etc.). Set to the specified value and tighten until it clicks; never guess torque.
- Transmission jack or helper floor jack with safety strap — supports and lowers the heavy transmission safely. A transmission is heavy and off‑center; a dedicated transmission jack is safest. If using a floor jack, use a block of wood + straps to secure the trans to the jack.
- Pry bar (medium) — to gently separate transmission from engine once bolts are removed. Apply steady pressure and work around the bellhousing; don’t pry on the crankshaft or the transmission case edges.
- Clutch alignment tool (plastic or metal) — centers the clutch disc when installing the pressure plate so the transmission input shaft will slide in easily. New clutch kits usually include one. Insert it through the clutch disc splines and into the pilot bearing during pressure plate bolt torquing.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) — to remove clips, pry off connectors, and for light leverage. Use the correct size to avoid damaging screws.
- Needle‑nose pliers and snap‑ring pliers — for removing clips or snap rings on the release bearing or related linkage.
- Penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) — spray on rusty bolts and let soak to make bolt removal easier and reduce chance of rounding/stud breakage.
- Hammer and punch (soft and steel) — for light taps to free stuck parts or driving out a pilot bearing. Use a soft/lead hammer to avoid damage; use the steel hammer only when appropriate and carefully.
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner and shop rags — to clean the flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces of grease and oil.
- Drain pan — to catch any transmission fluid spills when disconnecting lines or removing the transaxle.
- Clutch pilot bearing puller (if applicable) — removes a press‑fit pilot bearing from the crankshaft. A slide hammer style or bolt‑puller works; some can be pulled out with an appropriate extractor.
- Flywheel holding tool (or strong pry bar wedged carefully) — to prevent the crank from turning when loosening/tightening pressure plate bolts or flywheel bolts. A holding tool hooks into flywheel teeth or locks the crank pulley.
- Shop manual or factory repair manual for your Toyota 2Z — contains correct torque specs, bolt locations, removal order, and any model‑specific steps. Use it; it prevents mistakes.
- Disposable gloves, safety glasses, and a mask for dust — clutch dust can be harmful; avoid inhaling it and wash hands after handling.

Why some extra tools are required and what they do
- Transmission jack — required because the transmission is heavy, bulky, and awkward; it allows safe lowering and accurate alignment for reinstallation. Doing this without one makes dropping the transmission likely and dangerous.
- Clutch alignment tool — without it you risk misaligning the clutch disc and having the input shaft not slide in; this makes reinstallation extremely difficult and can force you to remove the trans again.
- Pilot bearing puller — pilot bearings are press‑fit; trying to pry them out with screwdrivers risks damaging the crankshaft bore. The puller removes it cleanly.
- Flywheel holding tool — prevents crankshaft rotation when torquing or loosening bolts. Without it you may strip bolts or damage components.
- Torque wrench — prevents under/over‑torquing bolts which can lead to failure or warped components. It’s essential for safety and longevity.
- Penetrating oil and breaker bar — many bolts will be seized after years; these tools reduce the chance of breaking studs or stripping heads.

Preparation and removal (general procedure for a 2Z manual trans)
- Prepare: chock wheels, disconnect battery negative, lift vehicle and support on jack stands, remove the necessary trim/panels for access.
- Remove wheels (if required) and any splash shields or crossmembers blocking trans access. Keep hardware organized in labelled containers or bags.
- Drain transmission fluid if needed and place drain pan under transmission.
- Disconnect and remove drive axles or prop shaft as applicable to your drivetrain (FWD transaxle or RWD transmission steps differ). Mark their orientation for reassembly.
- Disconnect clutch slave cylinder (hydraulic) or clutch cable/linkage; if hydraulic, do not open the hydraulic line unless you are prepared to bleed the system — instead unplug the slave and secure it out of the way if possible. Cap or plug open ports to prevent contamination; catch fluid.
- Remove starter motor (it usually blocks a bellhousing bolt) and any wiring harnesses or shift linkage attached to the transmission.
- Support the transmission with the transmission jack. Remove bellhousing bolts evenly. Use penetrating oil and a breaker bar for tight bolts. Keep the transmission supported at all times.
- Separate transmission from engine: pry gently at several points if required, being careful not to damage the input shaft splines or pilot bearing. Lower transmission straight back on the transmission jack.

Inspection once the transmission is out
- Inspect the clutch release bearing: check for roughness, noise, sticking or play. If the bearing is noisy, rough, or sticky it must be replaced.
- Inspect clutch disc friction material thickness and rivets. If the disc is glazed, contaminated with oil, or the friction material is thin (manufacturer spec), replace it.
- Inspect pressure plate: check for heat spots, warping, cracked fingers, or loosened bolts. Replace if any defects.
- Inspect flywheel face: look for hot spots, cracks, heavy scoring. If surface is uneven or severely scored, resurface (machine) or replace. Resurfacing is recommended if you install a new clutch to get a true flat mating surface.
- Inspect pilot bearing/bushing for free movement and lack of play. Replace if noisy, seized, or worn.
- Inspect input shaft splines for wear and grease lightly with high‑temp spline grease if good.
- Inspect rear main seal and look for leaks. If the engine is pulled away and the seal is leaking, consider replacing it now because access is very limited later.

Parts that should usually be replaced and why
- Clutch release (throwout) bearing — replace whenever the transmission is removed. Reason: it is inexpensive relative to the job and commonly wears; failure after reinstallation means removing the transmission again.
- Complete clutch kit (pressure plate + clutch disc + release bearing + alignment tool) — strongly recommended. Reason: clutch friction surfaces and springs age together; if the bearing failed the rest of the clutch is likely near end of service and you will avoid another major job soon.
- Pilot bearing/bushing — replace if worn, noisy, or whenever replacing the clutch. It’s cheap and failure leads to input shaft misalignment and noise.
- Rear main oil seal — replace if leaking or if you already have the trans removed. Labor to replace it when transmission is off is minimal compared to doing it later.
- Concentric slave cylinder (CSC) or hydraulic release unit — if your model uses a concentric integrated unit (bearing + cylinder), replace it whenever the transmission is out or if it leaks or feels spongy. Reason: it’s a wear item and failure requires the same labor to change.
- Flywheel — resurface if it has heat spots, scoring or does not meet flatness spec. Replace if cracks or too thin after machining. Reason: a warped/damaged flywheel will shorten new clutch life and cause chatter/slippage.
- Fasteners (pressure plate bolts, pilot bearing, any known torque‑to‑yield bolts) — replace if specified by manufacturer or if bolts/studs are damaged. Some pressure plate bolts are single‑use.

How to fit the new release bearing and reinstall (key points)
- Clean the input shaft and fork contact areas; remove grease and dirt. Lightly lube the release-bearing sliding surface only if manufacturer permits (many clutch bearings are pre‑lubricated—don’t overgrease).
- If the release bearing is the concentric slave type, follow the part instructions for installation; usually it slides into the bellhousing bore and is bolted or clipped in place.
- Use the clutch alignment tool to center the clutch disc against the flywheel while tightening the pressure plate in a star pattern and to factory torque. Tighten each bolt incrementally to prevent warping.
- Check engagement of the input shaft into the disc splines by sliding the transmission in carefully on the transmission jack; it should slide in without force. If it does not, pull transmission back and check disc alignment.
- Reattach all wiring, linkage, starter, axles/drive shafts, and bleed the clutch hydraulic system if needed.
- Refill transmission fluid to correct level and torque all bolts to spec per the shop manual.

Common beginner mistakes and quick tips
- Don’t skip replacing the release bearing if you’ve dropped the transmission; it’s cheap insurance.
- Label bolts and components as you remove them to avoid confusion during reassembly.
- Never use the floor jack alone to support the car. Use two jack stands when under the car.
- Keep the clutch mating surfaces clean of oil/grease; contamination causes slipping.
- Use the shop manual for torque specs and bolt tightening sequence; do not guess torque values.
- If any fastener is rounded or broken, stop and get proper extractors or replacement hardware rather than forcing it.

Parts list example (buy as a kit where possible)
- Clutch release (throwout) bearing — match VIN/engine/transmission specification; get OEM or quality aftermarket.
- Clutch disc and pressure plate (clutch kit) — matched set, usually sold together.
- Clutch alignment tool — often included with clutch kit.
- Pilot bearing or bushing — match crankshaft specification (OEM recommended).
- Rear main seal (optional but recommended if leaking or if you want preventive maintenance).
- Transmission fluid (correct type/quantity for your gearbox).
- If applicable: concentric slave cylinder (if your model uses this and you have signs of failure).

Final note (short)
- This is a moderately advanced job for a complete beginner because it requires safely supporting and handling a heavy transmission and careful alignment and torqueing. Follow the shop manual, use the proper safety equipment and the tools listed (especially a transmission jack, clutch alignment tool and torque wrench), and replace wear items (bearing, clutch kit, pilot bearing) while you have access.
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