Tools & supplies
- Full metric socket/ratchet set (incl. long extensions), combination wrenches
- Torque wrench (range covering 10–200 Nm+)
- Transmission jack or engine hoist (to support/remove transmission)
- Floor jack + quality jack stands or vehicle lift
- Flywheel holding tool / locking pin or large pry bar
- Seal puller or small slide-hammer with seal puller adapter
- Rear main seal driver (correct OD for seal) or appropriately sized deep socket and soft-faced mallet
- Screwdrivers, pliers, wire brushes, gasket scraper
- Brake cleaner or parts cleaner, lint-free rags
- Engine oil (for pre-lubing new seal) and replacement oil filter if desired
- RTV or gasket sealant (if required by manual)
- New rear main seal (OEM or exact-spec aftermarket), rear seal retainer gasket or O-ring (if applicable)
- Replacement fasteners if bolts are torque-to-yield or damaged (flywheel bolts, retainer bolts)
- Threadlocker (as specified by factory manual)
- Protective gear: gloves, eye protection

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat, level surface. Use a lift or securely rated jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Allow engine/transmission to cool before disassembly.
- Support heavy components (transmission, engine parts) with a transmission jack/hoist to prevent dropping.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; keep hands clear when rotating or tapping parts.
- Keep drain pan under engine when releasing oil; clean spills immediately.

Parts required (minimum)
- Rear main seal (OEM part for Toyota 1DZ-II)
- Rear main seal retainer gasket or O-ring (if the retainer uses one)
- New flywheel/flexplate/drive plate bolts if factory manual specifies one-time-use/Torque-To-Yield
- Engine oil and filter (recommended to change after repair)
- Optional: pilot bearing/bushing, crankshaft slinger, transmission input seal (inspect & replace if worn)

Overview (what you will do)
- Remove transmission/clutch assembly to access rear of crank
- Remove flywheel/flexplate and rear main seal retainer
- Extract the old seal without damaging the crankshaft
- Install the new seal squarely to correct depth with a driver
- Reassemble, torque to spec and check for leaks

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery. Drain engine oil if convenient.
- Raise vehicle and support on stands or position on lift. Place drain pan under transmission bellhousing area to catch fluid.

2) Remove drivetrain items to access rear of crank
- Remove driveshaft/prop shaft if needed.
- Remove transmission (manual or automatic) or detach transfer case as required — support transmission with transmission jack.
- For manual: remove clutch assembly and release fork components as required.
- Remove starter motor and any wiring harnesses, ground straps, brackets blocking bellhousing.
- Use flywheel holding tool or engage a helper with a pry bar in ring gear to prevent crank rotation.

3) Remove flywheel/flexplate
- Mark orientation if necessary. Remove bolts in a crisscross pattern.
- Inspect flywheel and bolts. Replace bolts if they are TTY or damaged.
- Set flywheel aside on clean surface.

4) Remove rear seal retainer
- Remove bolts holding the rear main seal retainer (plate). Note if there's a gasket or O-ring — remove it and clean mating surfaces.
- Inspect retainer and mating surfaces for corrosion or scoring.

5) Remove old seal
- Using a seal puller or small slide hammer, carefully work the old seal out by grabbing the inner lip or outer edge. Do not pry on the crankshaft surface.
- If using screwdrivers, take care — pry evenly and avoid nicking the crank journal.

6) Inspect crankshaft sealing surface
- Clean thoroughly with brake cleaner. Inspect the crankshaft journal/running surface where the seal lip rides for scoring, nicks, pitting or heavy wear.
- Light polishing with very fine emery (320–600) to remove minor burrs is acceptable; do not remove significant material. Deep damage requires crankshaft repair or replacement.
- Inspect the slinger (if present) and retainer bore for corrosion; clean and dress as needed.

7) Prep new seal and retainer
- Confirm new seal orientation (lip faces oil; usually open side toward oil). Factory manual confirms orientation.
- Lightly coat sealing lip and inside of seal with clean engine oil.
- If the retainer uses a gasket or O-ring, replace with new part and use appropriate RTV if specified.

8) Install new seal using a driver
- Choose a seal driver or deep socket that matches the outer diameter of the seal evenly — it must press the seal on by the outer metal case, not the inner lip.
- Place seal squarely over the crankshaft journal and the retainer bore.
- Using the driver and soft-faced mallet, tap evenly around the circumference until the seal is seated flush to the retainer or to the specified depth. Do a series of light, evenly spaced taps rather than heavy blows.
- Verify the seal is parallel to the housing and fully seated; if it goes in cocked, remove and reinstall with correct driver.

9) Reinstall retainer and flywheel
- Clean mating surfaces, apply new gasket or O-ring as required.
- Install retainer and torque bolts to factory specs in a crisscross pattern.
- Refit flywheel/flexplate. Torque bolts to factory spec. If bolts are specified single-use/TTY, install new bolts and follow tightening sequence and final angle if required.
- Reinstall clutch assembly (manual) with proper alignment dowel/centering tool.

10) Reinstall transmission and components
- Align and raise transmission with jack, slide into bellhousing, and secure with bolts. Reconnect wiring, starter, driveshaft, mounts, etc.
- Refill engine oil and transmission fluid as required.

11) Final checks
- Crank engine by hand a few revolutions to ensure no interference and to seat the seal.
- Start engine and inspect for leaks at rear main and around retainer.
- Re-torque bolts after initial run if specified by manual.

How each tool is used — concise
- Seal puller/slide hammer: hooks behind seal inner lip or outer edge; pull straight out. Use evenly around circumference to avoid cocking the seal.
- Seal driver (or deep socket): matches seal outer diameter. Place onto seal edge and tap evenly with soft-faced mallet until seal is flush. Do not press on inner lip.
- Flywheel holding tool / pry bar: used to prevent crank rotation when loosening/tightening flywheel bolts. Insert into ring gear teeth or use manufacturer holding tool to avoid damaging starter ring.
- Transmission jack: supports and positions transmission for safe removal/installation. Always secure transmission to jack with strap.
- Torque wrench: final-tighten bolts to factory torque in correct sequence. Use correct units (Nm/lb-ft).
- Soft-faced mallet: for even tapping during installation; prevents damage to driver/retainer.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Installing seal backwards: double-check orientation; lip goes toward oil. If installed wrong, immediate leak.
- Using wrong-size driver: will deform the seal. Use driver equal to outer diameter of seal.
- Damaging crank sealing surface: do not pry on the journal; inspect and polish only if minor damage. Severe scoring requires machining.
- Reusing TTY bolts: if bolts are torque-to-yield, replace — reusing can lead to failure.
- Not supporting transmission properly: causes dropping/damage — always use jack and straps.
- Hitting inner lip with hammer: drives damage leading to leaks. Tap only on outer case.
- Not using threadlocker where specified or not following torque specs: leads to loosening and leaks. Always follow factory torque and threadlocker instructions.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces or replacing gasket/O-ring: leads to oil seepage.
- Not pre-lubing the seal: dry installation can cause initial wear and leak.

Notes & final advice
- Always consult the Toyota 1DZ-II factory service manual for exact torque values, bolt replacement requirements, seal orientation diagrams, and any engine-specific steps (such as removal of timing covers or specific harnesses).
- If the crankshaft journal is damaged, do not install a new seal — repair or regrind and use the correct undersize seal.
- Replace ancillary items if worn: pilot bushing, slinger, transmission input seal.

Done.
rteeqp73

TOYOTA 1DZ-II ENGINE | INJECTION PUMP TIMING

How to identify bad diesel Injectors. Toyota forklift 1Dz-II ENGINE

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