Tools & workshop gear (minimum)
- Full metric hand tool set (sockets, ratchets, extensions, combination wrenches)
- Torque wrench (to suit specs up to ~200 Nm)
- Breaker bar, impact gun (careful with final torque)
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty trolley jack + gearbox cradle (supports gearbox removal)
- Engine support/hoist or sling (support engine when bellhousing is separated)
- Hydraulic press (30–50 ton preferred) with bearing/seal drivers
- Bearing pullers / gear pullers / slide hammer
- Snap‑ring pliers (internal & external)
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (measures endplay & runout)
- Micrometer & vernier caliper (shaft/gear measurements)
- Feeler gauges
- Torque screwdriver / small torque wrench (for small caps)
- Punch & drift set, soft mallet
- Heat source (induction heater or propane torch) for controlled expansion of hubs
- Parts washer, brushes, lint‑free rags, solvent
- Assembly lubricant and high‑temp grease
- Seal drivers and bearing drivers set
- Snap ring & circlip kit
- Gear marking compound (for mesh pattern)
- Threadlocker, anti-seize
- Shop manual / OEM transmission spec sheet (clearances, torques)
- PPE: gloves, eye protection, steel‑toe boots, ear protection

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Work on level surface; use jack stands under vehicle; never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect battery before starting.
- Support engine with hoist or engine support when transmission is removed; DO NOT let the engine hang from hoses.
- Transmission is heavy and awkward — use a gearbox jack/cradle; never lift alone.
- Use protective gloves and eye protection when using solvents or press.
- Do not use excessive heat near seals, bearings, or magnets; controlled heat only.
- Keep work area clean to avoid contamination of bearings/parts.

Preparatory steps
1. Obtain OEM workshop manual for the exact transmission model (R-series, etc.) fitted to your 1HZ/1PZ/1HD‑T — you must use its torque & clearance specs.
2. Acquire a rebuild kit: bearings, synchro rings, seals, gaskets, snap rings, shift fork bushes; consider full gear set if pitted.
3. Clean workbench and lay out labelled trays for fasteners; photograph/mark assembly positions for reassembly.

Removal from vehicle — step-by-step
1. Park, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
2. Drain gearbox oil.
3. Remove propshaft/drive shafts, transfer case if fitted, speedometer cable/sensor, clutch slave assembly (or disconnect linkage), reverse lamp switch.
4. Support transmission with gearbox jack. Support engine with hoist or block the engine from rotating/tilting.
5. Remove transmission mount(s) and crossmember.
6. Mark alignment of bellhousing/dowels, then remove bellhousing bolts. Slide gearbox back off input shaft and lower carefully on jack.
7. Inspect and set aside clutch release bearing / pilot bearing — replace if worn.

Bench disassembly — step-by-step
1. Clean exterior before opening; prevent dirt entry.
2. Secure gearbox in a soft‑jaws vice or fixture.
3. Remove inspection covers, top cover and selector tower (note direction/position of forks and selector drum).
4. Remove snap rings and retaining circlips with snap‑ring pliers.
5. Using bearing puller/press, remove bearings from shafts (press on bearing outer race with appropriate driver; support shaft).
- How used: Set press ram over bearing driver that contacts outer race; slowly press off onto arbor.
6. Remove gears, collars, synchro hubs and synchroniser rings. Use heat on hubs if stuck — use induction heater to expand hub only; do not overheat.
7. Remove layshaft and mainshaft assemblies. Extract reverse idler gear, selector rails, detent balls/springs.
8. Remove bushings and seals from housing; use reamer only if replacing bushings and following OEM oversize specs.
9. Inspect shafts for straightness (roll on V‑blocks), gear teeth for pitting/chipping, synchro teeth for wear, bearing races for spalling.

Inspection & measurement (critical)
- Bearings: replace if any pitting, roughness, axial play. Measure bearing bores and outer race diameters with micrometer.
- Shafts: measure journal diameters and compare to spec; if worn beyond limits, replace or regrind (machine shop).
- Gears: check teeth for pitting, cracks, circumferential scoring, excessive wear; replace damaged gears.
- Synchro rings: check friction surface for glazing and stepped wear; replace with new cones.
- Synchroniser hubs: check spline condition and keyways; replace if notched or cracked.
- Bushings: measure inside diameter and ovality; replace if beyond tolerance.
- Endplay: measure layshaft and mainshaft axial play with dial indicator; compare to spec.

Common replacement parts to have
- Full bearing kit (input/main/layshaft + needle bearings)
- Full synchroniser kit (cones, blocker rings, springs)
- Shift forks & fork bushes (often worn)
- Seals & gaskets (rear cover, input seal, speedo seal)
- Snap rings / circlips
- Selector drum/shaft bushings (if worn)
- Oil seals, O‑rings
- Gear oil (OEM spec grade)
- Pilot bearing/bushing, clutch release bearing (recommended)

Reconditioning & machining notes
- If shafts are scored: minor scoring may be polished; deep damage requires regrind or replacement.
- If gear teeth are pitted: replace affected gears or have entire gear set replaced — gear cutting/grinding requires specialist facility.
- Bushings: if replaced, installer must ream to OEM spec; improper reaming causes misalignment — use OEM specification tool or a transmission shop.
- Bearing fits: press fit interference must be within OEM tolerance — use correct heating or cooling method (induction heater on outer race or dry ice for shaft) and use bearing drivers to avoid race damage.

Reassembly — step-by-step
1. Clean all parts with solvent, dry, and lay out in order.
2. Pre‑lubricate new bearings and synchros with assembly lube.
3. Install bearings using hydraulic press and correct driver on the race designated by manual. Avoid pressing on bearing rollers.
4. Fit new synchro rings and hubs; ensure springs/seats are correctly oriented.
5. Assemble shafts into housing; fit shims/spacers as per manual to achieve correct endplay.
- How to use dial indicator: mount magnetic base to housing, probe on end of shaft; push/pull shaft to measure axial movement; adjust shim thickness until endplay is within spec.
6. Install selector forks ensuring they sit correctly in groove of hub/drum; rotate drum and check selector indexing.
7. Refit snap rings/circlips into grooves using snap‑ring pliers; verify seating.
8. Torque all internal caps/bolts to OEM values with torque wrench; use threadlocker where specified.
9. Check gear mesh pattern: apply gear marking compound and rotate to see contact pattern; adjust shims or replacement if contact is off.
10. Rotate mainshaft through all gears to ensure smooth shifting, no binding, correct engagement of synchronisers.
11. Fit housing covers with new gaskets/seals; torque cover bolts.

Bench testing
- Verify endplay and bearing preload per manual.
- Verify shift pattern and drum indexing.
- Refill minimal gearbox oil for bench rotation to check smoothness.
- Listen for abnormal noises and inspect for leaks.

Refit to vehicle
1. Clean bellhousing mating surfaces, check alignment dowels and replace if worn.
2. Use clutch alignment tool to mate gearbox to clutch; ensure input shaft aligns.
3. Torque bellhousing bolts to spec; reinstall mount and crossmember.
4. Reconnect propshaft/transfer case, speedometer, linkage, sensors.
5. Refill gearbox with correct oil type and capacity per manual.
6. Run engine and cycle gears; test drive slowly, check for leaks, smooth shifting.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Not using OEM specs for shim/endplay — leads to premature bearing failure.
- Reusing worn synchro rings, seals or bearings.
- Pressing on wrong part of bearing (pressing rollers instead of race) — destroys bearing.
- Not supporting the engine when gearbox removed — causes engine damage or injury.
- Overheating hubs/seals — can alter hardness or ruin seals.
- Reusing old gaskets and sealants—causes leaks.
- Incorrectly installed snap rings/circlips or upside‑down installation.
- Poor cleanliness — contamination kills bearings quickly.
- Incorrect oil type or filling level.
- Ignoring minor scoring or not measuring shafts — leads to repeat failure.
- DIY regrinding/repair of gears without specialist equipment — risk of wrong profile/mesh.

When to send to specialist
- Bent or cracked shafts, heavily pitted or broken gears, or if lap grinding/gear profiling required.
- If bearing bore repairs or replacing case-splines/threads needed.
- If you lack bearing press/reaming tools — these operations require precision.

Final checks & run-in
- After reinstallation: initial 100–200 km run-in with gentle use; then recheck gearbox bolts, oil level and for leaks.
- Monitor for abnormal noise, overheating, or poor shift engagement — stop and recheck if observed.

Concise closing
Follow the OEM workshop manual for torque and clearance values. If you cannot measure or machine to spec, use a specialist transmission shop for final reconditioning of shafts/gears.
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