Jeep Wrangler TJ 2000 factory workshop and repair manual
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Covers the gasoline petrol engines 2.5 L AMC straight-4 engine * 4.0 L AMC straight-4 engine
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Lubrication and Maintenance
Suspension
Differential & Driveline
Vehicle Quick Reference
Brakes
Cooling
Audio/Video
Chime/Buzzer
Electronic Control Modules
Engine Systems
Heated Systems
Horn
Ignition Control
Instrument Cluster
Lamps
Message Systems
Power Systems & Restraints
Speed Control
Vehicle Theft Security
Wipers/Washers
Navigation/Telecommunication
Wiring
Engine
Exhaust System
Frame & Bumpers
Fuel System
Steering
Transmission and Transfer Case
Tires/Wheels
Body
Heating & Air Conditioning
Emission Control
Component and System Index
Jeep Wrangler TJ 2000 factory workshop and repair manual
Tools & supplies
- Valve spring compressor (C‑clamp style for overhead valve/pushrod engines or a top‑style compressor that seats on the valve retainer and head). Make sure it’s sized for the Jeep TJ 4.0L/2.5L valves.
- Compressed air and a spark‑plug‑hole adapter with regulator (or a commercial “valve keeper retaining” adapter) OR remove the head for full access.
- Magnetic pickup or small pick tool for keeper removal.
- Socket/ratchet set, extensions, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench.
- Screwdrivers, pliers, small picks.
- Marker/paint pen or masking tape for labeling.
- Shop rags, parts trays/magnetic dish.
- Engine assembly lube or light motor oil.
- Valve stem seal installer (small cup or appropriate socket) if replacing seals.
- Wire brush, solvent for cleaning parts.
- Safety glasses, gloves.
Replacement parts & measurements
- New valve springs (replace as a set, check free length and spring rate).
- New valve stem seals (recommended whenever springs are off).
- New valve keepers (locks) and retainers if worn.
- Optional: new valves, guides, or valve spring shims if specs out of tolerance.
- Factory service manual for torque specs, spring free/installed heights, and torque angle if applicable.
Safety & preparatory steps
1. Work on a cold engine. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2. Park on level ground, engage parking brake. If vehicle is lifted, use jack stands—do not rely on a jack.
3. Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep rags clear of rotating tools.
4. Relieve any pressure in intake (no specific fuel system step required for this job) and remove spark plugs so cylinders rotate freely and to make using compressed air easier.
5. Label/photograph parts orientation and keep pushrods/rockers in order. Keep parts in trays per cylinder.
High‑level procedure (pushrod OHV Jeep 4.0L / 2.5L)
Note: Two safe approaches — (A) cylinder head on the engine using compressed air to hold valves up, or (B) remove the head and service springs on a bench. If you are not comfortable holding valves with compressed air, remove the head.
Step‑by‑step (head on, compressed air method)
1. Remove components to access the valve cover: air intake, ignition wires/coils, anything blocking valve cover. Remove valve cover(s).
2. Remove rocker assembly:
- Mark each rocker and corresponding pushrod and keep them in order.
- Remove rocker cover bolt(s) and lift the rocker assembly free.
- Remove pushrods and lay them in order (use cardboard with stamped locations).
3. Remove spark plugs for the cylinder you’ll work on (you can work one cylinder at a time).
4. Seat compressed air adapter into the spark plug hole for the cylinder you’re servicing. Regulate air pressure to about 20–40 psi to hold the valve(s) against the seat. Confirm the valve is held by seeing the retainer move slightly when light pressure is applied. Use a fitting designed for this purpose; do not jam rags down the plug hole.
5. Position valve spring compressor:
- Use the C‑clamp/top‑style tool so one foot presses on the retainer and the other rests against the cylinder head surface or valley.
- Center the compressor over the valve retainer, ensure it sits square and won’t slip.
6. Compress the spring slowly until the keeper/locks are exposed/accessible between retainer halves.
7. Remove the keepers:
- Use a magnetic pickup or small pick to remove the two (or split) keepers carefully. They are small—don’t let them fall into the cylinder; compressed air holding the valve prevents that.
8. Slowly release the compressor and remove retainer and spring. Inspect parts for wear.
9. Remove old valve seal (if replacing):
- Pry out the old seal carefully with a pick. Clean the valve guide boss.
- Install new seal with installer cup/socket. Light coat of oil on the seal is acceptable.
10. Install new spring/retainer:
- Seat the spring and retainer assembly. Apply a thin coat of assembly lube if required.
- Compress the spring with tool until keeper grooves align.
- Install keepers carefully—ensure they seat fully in the retainer groove.
11. Slowly release the compressor, verify keepers are seated and retainer is secure.
12. Remove compressed air, rotate the engine by hand a few revolutions, reapply compressed air and recheck seating if desired.
13. Reinstall pushrod and rocker in original position. Reassemble remaining rockers in same order.
14. Torque rocker assembly/bolts to factory specs and follow the factory procedure for rocker/lash/hydraulic lifter preload if applicable (consult the FSM for exact torque and procedure).
15. Reinstall valve cover, plug wires/coils, intake, etc. Start engine and check for noise/leaks.
If you remove the head (bench method)
- Follow factory disassembly: remove manifold(s), exhaust/header, head bolts in proper sequence, lift head.
- On bench, use a bench-mounted valve spring compressor that compresses from the stem side or retainer to remove keepers. Cleaner, safer (no compressed air).
- Inspect valve guides, seats, and springs. Replace seals, springs, retainers/keepers as needed, lap valves or have head machined if seats are marginal.
- Reassemble head, install new head gasket, torque head bolts in factory sequence and spec.
How the valve spring compressor tool is used (practical details)
- The tool’s lower foot rests on the cylinder head surface; the upper cup pushes the retainer. Tighten the screw/handle slowly until the retainer is compressed and keeper recesses are visible.
- Keep the tool perpendicular to the valve axis to avoid binding or slipping the retainer.
- When installing keepers, use a magnetic tool or very small pick; align the keeper halves together in the retainer groove before releasing.
- Release the tool slowly to ensure keepers seat gradually; a sudden release can fling keepers or damage the retainer.
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Dropping keepers into the cylinder: avoid by using compressed air adapter or removing head; keep a magnetic pickup ready.
- Mixing pushrods/rockers: always label and keep in order; mixing can cause premature wear or incorrect geometry.
- Not replacing valve stem seals: causes oil consumption and smoking; replace seals whenever springs are off.
- Using improper compressor or poor alignment: can slip and damage valve guides/retainers—ensure tool is centered and in good condition.
- Overlooking spring specs: don’t reuse weak springs; replace in matched set and measure free length/pressure if possible.
- Improper torque/assembly: always use factory torque specs and procedures for rocker shafts/bolts and head bolts.
- Working on a hot engine or without proper support: can cause burns or dropped components—work cold and on stable stands.
Final checks
- Verify keepers are fully seated by gently prying retainer—no movement allowed.
- Rotate engine by hand to ensure valves move freely and nothing binds.
- After reassembly, start engine and listen for abnormal valve noise. Re‑check torque after first heat cycle where applicable.
Reference
- Always follow the Jeep/Chrysler factory service manual for your TJ’s specific engine (4.0L I6 or 2.5L I4) for exact torque values, sequences, and clearances.
Done. rteeqp73
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The NV3550 is a medium-duty, 5-speed, constant mesh, fully synchronized manual transmission. The transmission is available in two and four-wheel drive configurations.
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