Tools & consumables (minimum)
- PPE: safety glasses, mechanic gloves, steel-toe shoes.
- Vehicle supports: 2+ jack stands, heavy-duty floor jack, wheel chocks.
- Transmission jack or second floor jack with wood block.
- Mechanics toolset: metric sockets (6–24 mm), deep sockets, extensions, breaker bar, combination wrenches, ratchet, torque wrench (0–200 Nm).
- Screwdrivers, pry bars, rubber mallet.
- Seal puller / screwdriver & small pry tool.
- Seal driver set or appropriately sized sockets/drift.
- Slide hammer (helpful for hard-to-remove seals).
- Bearing/gear puller (if needed).
- Fluid drain pan, funnels, squeeze/hand pump for refilling.
- Brake/carb cleaner, lint-free rags, gasket scraper.
- Threadlocker (blue Loctite) and new bolts if recommended.
- Replacement parts: transmission fluid (Toyota Type T-IV for automatic; correct gear oil GL‑4 75W‑90 for manual — check fill capacity), pan gasket and filter (auto), input/output shaft seals, transfer case seal(s), O‑rings for cooler lines, drain/fill plug crush washers, speedometer drive seal, any worn bolts.
- UV leak dye (optional for hard-to-find leaks).
- Shop manual or factory torque spec sheet for your exact year/model transmission.

Safety first (non-negotiable)
1. Park on flat ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake. If elevated, jack at manufacturer jacking points only and support with rated jack stands. Never rely on a jack alone.
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal if working near wiring or if removing starter/transmission wiring.
3. Transmission is heavy — always use a transmission jack or a second floor jack and a wood block when supporting/removing it. Use helper when needed.
4. Let engine/transmission cool. Hot fluid and metal cause burns.
5. Work in a well-ventilated area; avoid skin contact with fluids and cleaners.

Step A — Diagnose exact leak location (do not skip)
1. Clean the entire transmission and transfer case area with brake cleaner and rags. Remove dirt/grime so you can see fresh fluid.
2. Start engine and carefully run at idle, cycle through gears (manual or auto) while observing. Look for fresh fluid trails.
3. If leak not obvious, add UV dye to the transmission fluid and run again for a short time, then inspect with UV lamp to pinpoint origin.
4. Common leak locations: pan gasket (auto), pan drain plug, cooler line fittings, output shaft seal (rear of transmission), input/torque‑converter seal (front of automatic), speedometer drive seal, transfer case interface, drain/fill plug washers.

Repair procedures — choose the one matching your leak

1) Automatic transmission — pan gasket / filter leak
Use when fluid is coming from pan seam or area directly under pan.
Steps:
a. Warm fluid slightly (drive short distance) to reduce viscosity, then park and secure car.
b. Place drain pan under pan. Remove small drain plug if fitted; if not, carefully loosen corner bolt and let fluid run into pan while removing the rest of bolts progressively — keep one corner slightly threaded to control spill.
c. Remove pan bolts, lower pan carefully; expect more fluid. Clean pan, remove old gasket material with scraper and cleaner.
d. Replace filter: remove retaining bolt(s) and pull old filter. Install new filter per OEM orientation — usually just press into housing and torque retaining bolt to spec.
e. Inspect magnet(s) in pan for heavy metal — note in case of trouble.
f. Install new pan gasket (or RTV per manual). Place pan, hand-tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Torque to factory spec with torque wrench.
g. Reinstall drain/fill plugs with new crush washer if applicable; torque to spec.
h. Refill with correct ATF (Type T‑IV or Toyota recommended). Use fluid pump to add through dipstick tube or fill plug. Check level as per service procedure (engine running/parking brake on/gear in Park) at operating temperature.
How tool is used: torque wrench ensures bolts are not over/under tightened; sealant only where manual specifies. Funnel/hand pump makes refill without spills.

Common pitfalls:
- Reusing old gasket or pan with warped surface — always replace gasket and inspect pan for warpage.
- Over-tightening pan bolts (stripped threads or cracked pan).
- Incorrect fluid type or wrong fill procedure — leads to poor shift quality or damage.

2) Manual transmission — output shaft (rear) seal replacement
Use when leak axis near driveshaft/prop flange or between transmission and transfer case.
Steps:
a. Raise and support vehicle; remove driveshaft/prop shaft (mark orientation for reinstallation).
b. Support transmission with transmission jack or second jack under case. Remove bolts between transmission and transfer case if replacing transfer-case interface seal; otherwise remove propshaft to access rear output seal.
c. Remove the flange or yoke: unbolt driveshaft flange from output shaft. Carefully slide flange off (may need gentle persuasion with soft-faced hammer).
d. Pry out old seal with seal puller or small screwdriver — avoid scratching bore.
e. Clean bore and shaft thoroughly. Lightly oil new seal lip with clean transmission oil.
f. Use seal driver or suitably sized socket aligned square to drive new seal flush with case. Tap evenly; do not distort seal.
g. Reinstall flange/yoke, torque bolts to spec. Refit driveshaft, torque U-joint straps/bolts.
h. Lower vehicle, refill/verify fluid level if fluid was lost, test drive and re-check.
Tool usage: seal puller removes old seal without scoring; seal driver ensures even seating preventing leaks. Transmission jack supports weight; torque wrench for proper bolt torque.

Common pitfalls:
- Driving in a seal cockeyed — will leak immediately.
- Scored shaft lip — if shaft splines or surface are chewed, replace or have shaft machined; do not fit a new seal to a damaged shaft.
- Reusing old bolts or missing threadlocker where required.

3) Automatic transmission — front (torque converter) input seal
Use when fluid visible at bellhousing area between engine and transmission.
Steps:
a. This repair usually requires removing transmission. Support engine with an engine support bar if necessary.
b. Disconnect battery, remove starter, torque converter inspection cover if present, looms, and wiring harnesses attached to trans.
c. Support transmission with jack, remove crossmember(s), unbolt driveshaft/propshaft.
d. Unbolt transmission from engine bellhousing and carefully separate; roll transmission back on jack far enough to access input seal.
e. Remove old seal with puller, clean bore and torque converter hub area.
f. Install new seal with driver until flush, reassemble transmission to engine, torque bolts to spec.
g. Refill with correct fluid and follow the factory fill/bleed procedure.
Tool usage: pry tools to remove components, seal driver to install without distortion, transmission jack to handle weight.
Common pitfalls:
- Not supporting transmission — will fall and cause injury.
- Not checking torque converter rotor for wear or damage to hub where seal runs; doing seal alone on a damaged nose will re-leak.
- Incorrect fill/bleed procedure causing ATF aeration.

4) Cooler lines and O‑rings (both manual & auto)
Use when fluid tracks toward front of vehicle or along lines.
Steps:
a. Inspect cooler hoses for splits or seepage at fittings.
b. Support lines and use wrench to loosen fittings; have drain pan ready.
c. Replace O‑rings at both ends of hose fittings with OEM spec o‑rings; coat lightly with fresh fluid before seating.
d. Reinstall and torque to spec; run engine and check for leaks.
Tool usage: use two wrenches to avoid twisting lines; replace copper crush washers at flare fittings if present.
Common pitfalls:
- Reusing damaged O‑rings or over-tightening causing crushed fittings.
- Not replacing both ends’ O-rings or neglecting line corrosion.

5) Transfer case / case split seal
If leak at transmission/transfer-case interface:
a. Support both transmission and transfer case; remove bolts joining them.
b. Separate by a small gap to access and replace the case interface seal.
c. Install new seal with driver, clean mating surfaces, and fit transfer case back with new bolts (use Loctite where specified).
d. Torque to spec and refill both units if fluid lost.
Pitfall: misalignment when mating — ensure dowel pins align, use guide bolts.

General reassembly checklist
- Replace any crush washers or O‑rings removed.
- Use new seals/filters/gaskets — reuse only bolts if in good condition and not torque-to-yield.
- Torque all fasteners to factory specs in correct sequence (criss-cross pattern for pans).
- Refill to specified capacity and check fluid level by the prescribed method and temperature.
- Road test under light load and recheck for leaks after a short drive.

Parts & fluid specifics (common)
- ATF: Toyota Type T‑IV for many older Toyotas (verify year/model).
- Manual gearbox oil: 75W‑90 GL‑4 (some gearboxes use 85W‑140; check manual).
- Seals/gaskets: buy OEM or high-quality aftermarket; part numbers vary by transmission model (R150F, A340F, etc.) — confirm with VIN/model.
- Filter & pan gasket: automatic transmission filter kit specific to transmission model.
- Drain/fill washers: copper crush washers or new O‑rings.

Common pitfalls summary (avoid these)
- Working without proper support — transmission falling causes severe injury.
- Reusing old seals/gaskets or using wrong seal orientation.
- Damaging sealing surfaces or shafts while removing seals.
- Incorrect fluid type or incorrect fill level/bleed procedure.
- Over/under-torquing bolts — causing leaks or cracked housings.
- Ignoring root cause: worn bearings or shaft play will destroy new seals.

Final notes
- If the leak source is ambiguous or requires full transmission removal and you lack a transmission jack and experience, have a professional shop perform the removal. For any repair requiring transmission removal, consult the factory service manual for step-by-step removal/installation, torque specs, and fluid capacities before proceeding.
- Replace seals and filters with correct parts for your transmission model; stock up on crush washers and O‑rings before starting.

Done.
rteeqp73

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Land cruiser 1HZ 1HDT 1PZ Valve shim adjustment tutorial A "how to" on how to adjust the valve shims on your toyota land cruiser with 1HZ and 1HDT engine, but will work on other as well.

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