- Tools and consumables — what each is, why you need it, and how to use it
- Socket set (metric sizes, 8–19 mm) with ratchet and 6–12" extension
- Use to remove drain and pan bolts, and fill/fill-plug bolts. Select the correct socket that fits snugly; turn the ratchet handle to loosen or tighten. Keep the extension handy for hard-to-reach bolts.
- Torque wrench (ft·lb scale, 1/4" or 3/8" drive)
- Use to re-tighten pan and drain bolts to the specified torque so you don’t strip threads or crush the gasket. Set the torque, tighten until it clicks, or follow spec in a service manual.
- Floor jack and two good jack stands (rated capacity) + wheel chocks
- Use the jack to raise the vehicle and jack stands to safely support it. Chock wheels remaining on the ground. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Drain pan (large, 6–10 quarts capacity)
- Catches old fluid. Place under the drain plug/pan, slowly remove drain bolt/pan to let fluid drain into it.
- Funnels and a flexible fluid pump or hand suction pump (transmission fluid pump)
- Use the funnel for topping up through the dipstick tube; use a pump to transfer fluid from bottles into the transmission if you can’t reach the fill point easily.
- Flat screwdriver and gasket scraper / plastic scraper
- Use to pry the pan off gently and to remove old gasket material. Be careful not to gouge mating surfaces.
- Rubber/nylon mallet
- Light taps to break the pan loose if gasket is stuck; avoids damaging the pan compared with a steel hammer.
- Clean rags / shop towels and brake cleaner or parts cleaner
- Wipe fluid and clean pan, magnet and mating surfaces. Brake cleaner removes old oil and sludge.
- New transmission fluid (see below for type)
- Use the correct fluid for automatic or manual transmission. Have at least 2–4 quarts on hand for drain-and-refill; full systems require more.
- New pan gasket (automatic) and replacement transmission filter (automatic)
- Filter removes particulate and the gasket seals the pan; both are nearly always replaced when the pan is removed.
- Crush washer or new drain plug washer (if applicable)
- Ensures a leak-free seal at the drain plug; replace to prevent slow leaks.
- Gloves and eye protection
- Protect skin and eyes from hot fluid and debris.
- Service manual or OEM fluid specification sheet / dipstick
- Gives fluid type, capacity, fill procedure and torque specs for your exact model/year — use it as your reference.
- Optional but recommended: infrared thermometer or oil temperature stick
- Helps check fluid temperature while checking level; many automatics must be checked at operating temperature.
- Optional shop vacuum or catch tray for cleaning
- Makes cleanup easier.

- Fluids and parts — what to buy and why
- Automatic transmission fluid (ATF): most older Toyota pickups with the 22R/22R-E use Dexron-type ATF (Dexron II/III or Dexron-compatible ATF). Newer/other Toyota specs may call out Toyota Type T-IV or WS; check the vehicle’s service manual or the dipstick/sticker.
- Why: ATF chemistry matters for friction properties and valve body function.
- Manual transmission gear oil: typically SAE 80W-90 or 75W-90 GL-4 for older Toyota manual transmissions; check manual.
- Why: Manual transmissions use gear oil for gear and synchro protection; wrong oil can cause shifting problems or wear.
- Transmission pan gasket (automatic): replace anytime you remove the pan.
- Why: Old gaskets compress and leak; reusing often creates leaks.
- Transmission filter (automatic): paper or screen filter; replace when removing the pan.
- Why: Removes metal particles and debris; a clogged filter impairs fluid flow and can cause damage.
- Drain plug crush washer or O-ring
- Why: Prevents slow leaks at the drain plug.
- Optional replacement seals if leaks are present: output shaft seal, input shaft seal
- Why: If you see external leaks from the case or bellhousing area, those seals will need replacing; these are not part of a routine flush unless leaking.

- Safety and prep — quick, non-negotiable steps
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Let the engine and transmission cool if they’re hot; hot fluid can burn you.
- Use jack stands under manufacturer-approved jacking points — do not rely on the jack alone.
- Dispose of old transmission fluid at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used oil.

- How to do a drain-and-refill flush on an automatic transmission (recommended DIY method for beginners)
- Warm the engine by driving for 5–10 minutes to get fluid flowing and thin.
- Safely lift and support the vehicle with jack stands and chock wheels.
- Position the drain pan under the transmission pan/drain bolt.
- Remove the drain plug (if the pan has one) and let fluid drain.
- If no drain plug, loosen pan bolts around the perimeter a few turns and carefully break the seal on one side so fluid drains slowly into the pan; be prepared to support the pan as bolts are removed.
- Remove the transmission pan completely and let remaining fluid drain into the pan.
- Inspect the pan and magnet for metal shavings; clean the pan and magnet with rags and parts cleaner.
- Remove the transmission filter (it usually pulls off or is held with a few screws). Compare old filter to new one.
- Install the new filter (ensure O-rings/seals are in place if included).
- Clean mating surfaces thoroughly with a plastic scraper and rags. Install new pan gasket (or silicone sealant if specified).
- Reinstall the pan and snug bolts by hand, then torque to spec with torque wrench (or a conservative value from manual).
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer if used and torque to spec.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Refill with the recommended ATF through the dipstick tube or fill port using a funnel or fluid pump. For a single drain-and-refill expect to add about 3–4 quarts (varies by vehicle); check service manual for exact.
- Start the engine, let idle, move shifter through each gear (P, R, N, D, 2, L) pausing a few seconds in each gear to circulate fluid.
- With engine idling and parking brake set, check fluid level on the dipstick with the engine at operating temperature (or follow manufacturer instructions exactly — some require specific temp ranges). Add fluid until level is correct.
- Lower and test drive gently; recheck level after a short drive and again after a day of driving.
- For a better flush without special equipment, repeat drain-and-refill 2–3 times: drive to circulate and warm fluid, drain pan, refill. Each cycle replaces a bit more of the total fluid including some torque converter fluid.

- How to “flush” the torque converter more thoroughly without a machine (best-effort, still not a machine flush)
- Perform multiple drain-and-refill cycles as above; each cycle pulls more old fluid from the system as you run and shift to circulate.
- Note: a true full-system flush typically requires a machine hooked into the cooler lines or professional equipment; not required for routine maintenance and can risk pushing debris into the valve body if done improperly.

- How to do a manual transmission drain-and-refill
- Warm the car slightly so fluid drains more easily.
- Safely lift and support vehicle.
- Locate the fill plug (higher up on the case) and remove it first — the fill opening allows the system to breathe and ensures complete drainage.
- Position drain pan under the drain plug; remove the drain plug and allow fluid to drain fully.
- Replace the crush washer on the drain plug and reinstall, torquing to spec.
- Refill through the fill hole with the proper gear oil until it begins to trickle out of the fill hole; reinstall the fill plug and torque to spec.
- Lower vehicle and test drive; check for leaks.

- Common replacement parts and when they’re required
- Transmission filter (automatic)
- Replace whenever you remove pan. Required because old filter is contaminated and restricts flow.
- Pan gasket (automatic)
- Replace whenever pan is removed. Prevents leaks.
- Drain plug crush washer / O-ring
- Replace anytime you remove the drain plug to prevent leaks.
- Seals (input/output shaft seals)
- Replace only if you see external leaks. Symptoms: fluid puddles under vehicle, visible seepage around bellhousing/axles, low fluid level despite no obvious pan leak.
- Transmission mounts
- Replace if worn/cracked and causing excessive movement; not required for a flush but inspect while under the car.
- Dipstick O-ring or dipstick tube seal
- Replace if leaking around dipstick.

- Common pitfalls and beginner tips
- Don’t overtighten pan bolts — strip threads or crush gasket. Use torque wrench to manufacturer spec or conservative low torque.
- Always remove the fill plug before draining a manual transmission — otherwise you can’t refill it properly.
- Check temperature for ATF level: automatic fluid level is temperature dependent; consult manual or check at operating temp (many Toyotas specify a temp range).
- Replace the filter and gasket; reuse increases chance of contamination/leaks.
- If the fluid is dark and smells burned, and metal shavings are present, the transmission may be damaged. Stop; consider professional inspection.
- A machine flush can remove more old fluid but can also dislodge large particles that may clog the valve body. For a transmission in good working order, multiple drain-and-refills are safer for DIYers.

- Quantities and typical fluid types (approximate — verify with your service manual)
- Automatic small Toyota transmission (total capacity): ~9–12 quarts (full system) — drain-and-refill replaces ~30–40% per cycle (~3–4 quarts).
- Manual transmission: ~2–3 quarts, varies by model.
- Verify exact type: Dexron-compatible ATF for many older Toyota automatics; 80W-90 or 75W-90 GL-4 for manuals. If you can’t find the manual, bring a VIN or consult an OEM parts site for exact spec.

- When to consult a pro / do not proceed
- If you find lots of metal particles in the pan or filter, burning smell, slipping, or unusual noises.
- If you need a full-system flush that requires hooking into cooler lines or a power flush machine.
- If you aren’t comfortable lifting and supporting the vehicle safely.

- Quick overall workflow summary (in order, keep handy while working)
- Warm engine — lift and secure vehicle — drain pan/remove pan (or drain plug) — remove filter and inspect — clean pan/magnet — install new filter and gasket — reinstall pan/plug with new washer — lower vehicle — refill to proper level — run and cycle gears — check level and leaks — test drive and recheck.

- Final notes
- Always follow the exact procedures and torque values listed in the factory service manual for your specific year/model 22R or 22R-E vehicle. The above is a complete beginner-friendly guide to perform a safe drain-and-refill “flush” and what parts/tools are required.
rteeqp73

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