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Toyota 22R and 22R-E engine factory workshop and repair manual

- Safety first
- Work only with the engine cold. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile or chemical-resistant gloves. Protect carpets with towels or plastic.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable to avoid accidental electrical shorting while working around the dash.
- Have a drain pan rated for coolant capacity and avoid skin contact; collect and dispose of used coolant at a recycling center.
- Work in a well-ventilated area; keep open flames and sparks away from spilled fluids.

- Parts you will very likely need
- Replacement heater core specific to Toyota 22R / 22R‑E (verify year and cab model). The heater core is the central part you will replace.
- New heater hoses and hose clamps if existing hoses are swollen, cracked, soft, or have corrosion at clamps—reason: hoses are inexpensive and often aged; removing them can damage them.
- O‑rings/seals or small foam seals used around the heater core in the box (if present) — reason: old foam crumbles and creates leaks and rattle.
- Coolant (Toyota recommended ethylene‑glycol type or equivalent, premixed or concentrate plus distilled water) — reason: coolant must be replaced after draining.
- Optional but recommended: new thermostat (if old and original) and radiator cap — reason: when doing major coolant work, replacing these small items reduces future work and helps ensure proper system operation.

- Tools required and how to use them (detailed)
- Metric socket set (common sizes for older Toyotas: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm; have 6mm–14mm set) and ratchet with 3/8" drive
- Use to remove bolts that hold dash panels, heater box, clamps on firewall studs, and bracketry. Match socket to bolt head, pull handle to break free bolts, use extensions to reach recessed fasteners.
- Extensions and swivel/Universal joint adapter
- Use to access bolts at awkward angles behind the dash or in the engine bay; swivel lets the socket align to angled fasteners.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Use when a bolt is in a tight spot where a socket cannot fit or when holding a nut while turning bolt from the other side.
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (various sizes)
- Use Phillips for screws on dash trim, flathead for prying clips or turning slotted screws. Use flathead gently to avoid gouging plastic.
- Trim panel removal tools (plastic pry tools)
- Use to remove dash trim and plastic clips without damaging the dash; plastic tools prevent scratching and breaking brittle plastic.
- Pliers: slip‑joint pliers and needle‑nose pliers
- Use for pulling small clips, bending tabs, and gripping hose ends. Needle‑nose for reaching into tight spaces.
- Hose clamp pliers or channel‑lock pliers (spring clamp pliers if spring clamps present)
- Use to compress and slide spring clamps off heater hoses. Channel locks work for screw clamps (turn screw) or hold hose while pulling.
- Drain pan (large, shallow)
- Place under radiator petcock or disconnect point at firewall to catch coolant. Coolant is toxic; use a dedicated pan.
- Funnel and distilled water (for flushing/refill)
- Use to refill the cooling system and help avoid spilling when pouring coolant.
- Flashlight or headlamp
- Use to see behind the dash and under the heater box.
- Work gloves (mechanic gloves)
- Protect hands from cuts and hot/cold fluids.
- Shop towels or rags
- Clean spills and protect carpet.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Use to tighten bolts to manufacturer torque specs where required (reassembly of brackets and heater box). If you don’t have one, snug bolts and avoid over‑torquing.
- Utility knife, small pick set, and wire cutters
- Use to cut old foam seals, remove zip ties, and remove corroded clamps.
- Optional extra tools that may be required and why
- Drill and small cutting tool (Dremel) — only if heater box is riveted or inaccessible screws are corroded; used to remove rivets or cut access ports.
- Rivet gun and replacement rivets — if the box used rivets and you must replace them after cutting/drilling.
- Shop vacuum (wet/dry) — to remove spilled coolant from carpets or the heater box interior and keep the work area dry.
- Small mirror — to see fasteners behind the heater box or blower motor.

- Quick explanation of the heater core and why replacement is sometimes required
- The heater core is a small radiator inside the HVAC box that uses engine coolant to heat cabin air.
- Replacement needed when the core leaks (coolant inside the cabin, fogged windows, sweet smell, low coolant level) or when it is clogged and provides no heat.
- Replacing only the heater core is normally required; however, inspect and replace hoses, clamps, seals, and possibly the blower motor grommets if damaged.

- Preparatory steps before disassembly
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
- Allow engine to fully cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Place drain pan under radiator and open radiator petcock or remove lower radiator hose to lower coolant level below firewall hose connection, or loosen heater hoses at firewall to drain into pan.
- Remove as much coolant as necessary so you can disconnect heater hoses without excessive spillage.

- Heater core removal (general procedure adapted for Toyota 22R / 22R‑E trucks)
- In engine bay: locate the two heater hoses at the firewall that go to the heater core; use pliers to remove spring clamps or a screwdriver to loosen screw‑type clamps; pull hoses off the firewall fittings and let remainder drain into pan; plug hoses with rags or caps to minimize drips.
- Inside cabin: remove glove box and lower dash panels on the passenger side using screwdrivers and trim tools; remove screws and clips retaining the center console/HVAC control assembly as needed for access.
- Remove blower motor if it blocks access to the heater box. Unplug electrical connector and remove mounting screws; pull bladder/air ducts off carefully.
- Identify fasteners securing the heater box. Remove screws/bolts holding the heater box halves together or to the dash/frame; some clips may need to be pried out. Keep track of fasteners and their locations.
- Carefully pull the heater box down or apart to expose the heater core. Work slowly to avoid breaking brittle plastic tabs.
- Remove the heater core from the housing. Note orientation and any seals/foam pieces. Save any good seals or replace if deteriorated.

- Heater core installation
- Position new heater core in the heater box in the same orientation as the old one, ensuring seals and foam fit snugly to prevent air bypass and leaks.
- Replace any foam seals or gaskets with new pieces; use silicone adhesive sparingly only if OEM used adhesive.
- Reassemble the heater box halves and reinstall all screws/clips; replace rivets if you had to drill them out.
- Reinstall blower motor, ducts, and dash trim panels in reverse order of removal. Reconnect electrical connectors and ensure no wires are pinched.
- In engine bay: reconnect heater hoses to the firewall fittings and secure with new clamps if original clamps are corroded.

- Coolant refill and bleeding air from the system
- Refill cooling system with correct type and ratio of coolant and distilled water using a funnel; fill radiator first (if present) and overflow reservoir to specified levels.
- Start engine with radiator cap off, set heater controls to full hot and blower to high, and run engine until thermostat opens (feel upper radiator hose warm). Squeeze upper radiator hose periodically to help expel air bubbles.
- Watch coolant level and top up as air is purged. If your truck has any bleed screws, open them briefly to release trapped air.
- Replace radiator cap once bubbling stops and coolant stays at level. Monitor temperature gauge for proper operation.
- Let engine cool and recheck coolant level; top up if necessary.

- Testing and final checks
- Inspect for leaks at heater core hoses, clamps, and around the firewall.
- Verify cabin heating works: heater should deliver hot air once engine at operating temperature.
- Check inside cabin for any residual coolant smell or wet carpet; if present, inspect for leaks or remaining moisture and dry thoroughly.
- Properly dispose of used coolant and cleanup materials.

- Common issues and what to replace besides the heater core
- Heater hoses: replace if soft, cracked, or swollen—old hoses often fail when disturbed.
- Hose clamps: replace screw‑type or spring clamps if rusty or weak; they are inexpensive and prevent leaks.
- Foam seals/gaskets: replace to stop air bypass and rattles.
- Blower motor gasket or mounting hardware: replace if broken to prevent vibration/noise.
- Thermostat: replace if old or if you had prior cooling issues; inexpensive insurance to prevent future removal.
- Radiator cap: replace if old to maintain correct system pressure.

- Tips to avoid common mistakes
- Label screws and small parts or keep them grouped in separate bags—dash fasteners are not all the same.
- Take photos during disassembly to help during reassembly.
- Work patiently; heater box plastic is brittle on older trucks—forcing parts will break tabs.
- Do not run the engine without the radiator cap on or with an inadequate coolant level.
- Dispose of coolant responsibly.

- Final safety reminder
- Clean any spilled coolant immediately—antifreeze is toxic to pets and wildlife.
- Reconnect the battery only after electrical connectors are secured and no tools are left inside the dash.

No yapping.
rteeqp73

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