Short version first: the clutch release (throwout) bearing lets the clutch pedal (or hydraulic slave) press on a spinning pressure-plate without grinding. To replace it on a Toyota 22R/22R‑E you must remove the transmission, inspect/likely replace the pilot bearing and either resurface or replace the flywheel and clutch assembly, fit the new bearing correctly onto the clutch fork/input‑shaft interface, then reassemble and bleed/test the system. Below is a detailed beginner‑friendly walk‑through with component descriptions, theory, step‑by‑step procedure, inspection points, troubleshooting, and common mistakes.

Safety first
- Work on a flat surface. Use a good jack and rated jack stands. Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone under the vehicle.
- Disconnect negative battery cable.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear of pinch points.
- Have a fire extinguisher and first‑aid kit nearby.

What every component is and how the system works (plain language + analogies)
- Engine flywheel: big heavy disc bolted to the engine crank. The clutch disc clamps to it to transfer engine torque to the transmission. Analogy: flywheel = spinning turntable.
- Clutch disc (friction disc): has friction material on both sides and splined center that slides onto the transmission input shaft. It is the “pad” between engine (flywheel) and the pressure plate.
- Pressure plate: bolted to the flywheel and provides clamping force to squeeze the clutch disc against the flywheel. It uses a diaphragm spring (fingers) that the release bearing presses on to release the clutch.
- Pilot bearing/bushing: small bearing in the end of the crank (or in the flywheel) that supports the inner end of the transmission input shaft while it spins inside the crank. Analogy: a small pillow that supports the center of the spinning rod.
- Transmission input shaft: splined shaft from the transmission that fits into the clutch disc center and goes through the pilot bearing.
- Clutch release (throwout) bearing: the part that the clutch fork pushes against. It contacts the pressure-plate diaphragm fingers when you press the clutch pedal, and allows a stationary fork to press on a spinning diaphragm. Analogy: your hand (fork) needs a smooth glove (bearing) to press on a fast spinning wheel without friction.
- Clutch fork and pivot ball: the lever that transfers pedal movement (via hydraulic slave or cable) to the release bearing. It pivots on a ball or bush.
- Slave cylinder / master cylinder (if hydraulic): master converts pedal force to hydraulic pressure; slave converts hydraulic pressure to fork movement.

Theory — why a release bearing can fail and why replace it
- The release bearing runs against the pressure-plate fingers every time the clutch pedal is pressed. Over many miles the bearing wears, loses smoothness, or its internal rollers/pushers seize, causing noise, rough release, vibration, or failure to disengage.
- If a bearing fails it can score the input shaft sleeve, damage the fork, contaminate the clutch with metal particles, and make shifting hard or impossible.
- When replacing the bearing you should inspect/replace the clutch disc, pressure plate, and pilot bearing because they wear together — replacing only the release bearing is often throwing part of the problem away.

Symptoms of a bad release bearing
- Whine/squeal/growl that changes when you press the clutch pedal.
- Rubbing/grinding noise only while the pedal is down.
- Vibration through the pedal.
- Difficulty shifting, especially into first or reverse.
- Clutch not fully disengaging (slippage or dragging) — though other parts can cause this too.

Tools and consumables you’ll need (basic list)
- Full metric socket/wrench set, breaker bar, extensions.
- Torque wrench (crucial).
- Transmission jack (or a second floor jack plus helper).
- Screwdrivers, snap ring pliers, needle nose.
- Clutch alignment tool (essential for reassembly).
- Pilot bearing puller/installer (or appropriate sockets), bearing installers.
- Small ball‑peen hammer and drift.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner, parts cleaner.
- High‑temp grease (small amount for pivot/shaft splines), anti‑seize (optional per manual).
- New throwout bearing, pilot bearing/bushing, clutch disc and pressure plate (recommended), new clutch alignment tool, new bolts if OEM requires.
- Service manual for torque specs and procedures.

Preparation and time estimate
- Beginner time: expect 6–12 hours (longer if it’s your first transmission drop).
- Label everything, take photos of linkages and wiring where helpful.

Step‑by‑step procedure (detailed)
1) Prep and remove obstructions
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands; remove the transmission/driver’s side wheel if needed for clearance (depends on chassis).
- Remove the air intake and anything obstructing access to the top of the transmission bellhousing and starter.
- Remove the starter motor (gives access to bellhousing bolts).

2) Disconnect linkage and electrical
- Disconnect speedometer cable or electronic speed sensor; tag connectors.
- Disconnect and cap hydraulic clutch line at the slave if needed (prepare catch container for fluid); on some setups you can unbolt slave and hang it without disconnecting the line to avoid large fluid loss but it may still leak.
- Disconnect shifter linkage, reverse light switch wiring, and any sensors on the transmission.
- Mark location of any brackets to aid reassembly.

3) Drive shaft / axles and exhaust
- Remove drive shaft (for RWD) or CV axles if applicable (some models require dropping the exhaust crossmember).
- Support exhaust if it interferes.

4) Support engine/transmission and remove transmission
- Place a transmission jack or second floor jack under the transmission (use wood block under the trans case to protect it).
- Support engine with a safety support if necessary (so the engine won’t tilt when you drop the trans).
- Remove bellhousing bolts in a systematic pattern. Keep track of bolt lengths/positions.
- Pull transmission straight back from the engine; you may need to wiggle to free input shaft from clutch disc splines. Ensure no wires or lines are still connected.
- Lower transmission carefully and move it out of the way.

5) Expose the clutch and inspect
- With the transmission removed you will see the pressure plate bolted to the flywheel.
- Cleanly check flywheel surface for hot spots, scoring, cracking; check clutch disc for wear (thickness), oil contamination, and spline condition; inspect the pressure plate friction surface and diaphragm fingers.
- Remove the pressure plate bolts in a star pattern to release evenly (do not pry between pressure plate and flywheel—remove bolts gradually).
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.

6) Remove and inspect pilot bearing and flywheel
- Remove pilot bearing or bushing from the crank/flywheel bore. Use a puller or tap out carefully. If it’s a bushing, it may press out.
- Inspect the flywheel: if it has glazed or burnt spots or heavy scoring, resurface (machine) or replace. Light scoring can sometimes be resurfaced; deep grooves or cracks = replace.
- Check flywheel runout and seating surface for imperfections.

7) Replace release bearing and related parts
- Inspect clutch fork and pivot ball for wear. Replace pivot ball/pins or the fork if heavily grooved or worn.
- Clean the fork contact point, apply a small smear of high‑temp grease on the pivot ball and where the fork contacts the bearing retainer (don’t overdo grease).
- Remove old release bearing from the fork. Note its orientation and how it attaches (clip, retainer, or slides on inputs).
- Install the new release bearing in the same orientation and mounting method. On 22R/22R‑E the bearing usually slides on the input shaft sleeve and is held on the fork with a clip/retainer — ensure retainer is seated.
- Replace pilot bearing with new one. Install straight and flush using an appropriate installer tool or socket that fits the outer race — don't hammer on the inner race.

8) Install clutch disc and pressure plate
- Ensure clutch disc is oriented correctly — friction side toward the flywheel (disc often marked “flywheel side” or the marked side faces flywheel).
- Use the clutch alignment tool inserted into the clutch disc splines and through the pressure plate into the pilot bore to center the disc.
- Tighten pressure plate bolts in a star pattern gradually to the final torque (use factory spec). This centers the disc and prevents diaphragm distortion.
- Do not get grease, oil, or brake cleaner on friction surfaces.

9) Reinstall transmission
- Clean the input shaft spline and apply a light coat of high‑temp spline grease on the splines (very light).
- Align the transmission input shaft to the clutch disc using the alignment tool; carefully slide input shaft into clutch disc and pilot bearing. If it doesn’t slide in easily, withdraw, recheck alignment — never force.
- Reinstall bellhousing bolts; tighten in a crisscross sequence to factory torque.
- Reinstall starter, speedometer cable, shift linkage, and other disconnected items.

10) Reconnect hydraulic lines and bleed the clutch (if hydraulic)
- Reconnect slave cylinder or clutch line, refill master cylinder reservoir with correct DOT fluid.
- Bench‑bleed master cylinder before final. Then bleed the system at the slave while an assistant presses/holds the clutch pedal per bleeding procedure. Ensure no air remains — a spongy pedal indicates air.
- Check for leaks.

11) Final checks and reassembly
- Torque all external bolts to factory specs.
- Reinstall drive shaft, exhaust, any crossmembers.
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery.
- Start engine, verify clutch pedal free play (typically small amount of travel before disengaging — check manual for spec).
- With engine running and parking brake on, test that clutch disengages by shifting into gear while holding pedal depressed; if it won’t shift, do not force — stop and recheck.

Post‑job break‑in and testing
- New clutch components need a mild break‑in: avoid heavy loads, towing, or high slip for the first 300–500 miles. Use smooth clutch engagement initially.
- Road test for noise, grabbing, slipping, or vibration. If present, inspect again.

What can go wrong during the repair (and how to avoid it)
- Misalignment of clutch disc on install: will make transmission difficult to install. Use clutch alignment tool and tighten pressure plate in sequence.
- Installing bearing backwards or wrong orientation: bearing won’t engage diaphragm fingers correctly; check orientation against the old bearing.
- Contaminating friction surfaces: oil/grease on disc/pressure plate causes slipping and chatter. Keep them perfectly clean; handle disc by the hub only.
- Reusing a worn pressure plate/disc/pilot bearing: leads to premature failure; best practice is to replace the whole kit.
- Damaging pilot bearing or pressing it incorrectly: always press on outer race. If you hammer on inner race you’ll ruin it.
- Not checking for flywheel heat spots and cracks: resurfacing or replacing is required for long life.
- Over/under torquing bolts: can warp or loosen components. Use correct torque specs from a service manual and star pattern.
- Not lubricating pivot and splines (or over lubricating): light grease on splines and pivot only — too much lubricant near friction surfaces will contaminate the clutch.
- Failing to properly bleed hydraulic clutch: results in spongy pedal and poor disengagement.
- Broken/clipped transmission dowel pins or bent input shaft from misalignment — always align carefully and guide the transmission squarely.

Inspection checklist — look for these while trans is off
- Flywheel: glazing, heat spots, cracks, deep scoring.
- Clutch disc thickness and rivet clearance.
- Pressure plate diaphragm fingers flatness and evenness.
- Pilot bearing free spin and lack of play.
- Clutch fork wear grooves where bearing rides; pivot ball condition.
- Transmission input shaft splines and front seal for leaks.
- Release-bearing retainer clips and any wear on fork pad.

Common torque and fastener notes (general guidance)
- Torque values vary by year and model — get the factory service manual for exact numbers. Pressure plate and flywheel bolts usually require higher torque and often are single‑use (replace if specified). Tighten in star sequence to spec.

Troubleshooting after reassembly
- Noise when pedal depressed: possible wrong bearing orientation, binding fork, or bad new bearing — remove and inspect.
- Dragging clutch (won’t disengage fully): air in the hydraulic line, incorrect fork geometry, or improper pedal free play; check the hydraulic bleed and pivot position.
- Slipping/clutch burning smell after install: contaminated friction surfaces or improperly torqued pressure plate; inspect disc and flywheel.
- Difficulty shifting with engine off but clutch depressed: misaligned disc or bent input shaft.

Final tips for a beginner
- Take lots of photos before and during disassembly — they’re worth their weight in gold for reassembly.
- Keep bolts in labeled bags by location.
- Replace wear components as a set (bearing, disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing). It avoids doing the whole job again soon.
- Be patient. If the transmission won’t slide in, back it off and recheck alignment — forcing it will damage parts.
- If unsure about flywheel resurfacing, bring it to a reputable machine shop for inspection.

That’s the full process in detail. If you follow safe jacking practice, use a clutch alignment tool, replace the pilot bearing, and keep friction surfaces clean, you’ll prevent most common mistakes and end up with a quiet, properly functioning clutch release bearing and clutch system.
rteeqp73

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