- Safety first
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing anything electrical.
- Work on a flat, level surface and set the parking brake.
- Use wheel chocks on the wheels that remain on the ground.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always support the vehicle with properly rated jack stands.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and use hearing protection when needed.

- Tools — descriptions and how to use them
- Metric socket set (3/8" & 1/2" drive, common sizes 10–19 mm)
- Use the correct size socket for each nut/bolt to avoid rounding heads. Place the socket fully on the fastener, use a ratchet for removal and a breaker bar for stubborn bolts.
- Ratchet and extensions
- Extensions let you reach recessed bolts (starter, transmission bellhousing). Keep the ratchet on straight to reduce slippage.
- Breaker bar
- Provides extra leverage to break loose tight bolts. Apply steady force; don’t jerk.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, appropriate range, e.g., 10–150 ft·lb)
- Used for final tightening to specified torque so clutch and flywheel bolts are tightened evenly. Set the desired value, tighten until the wrench clicks, then stop.
- Combination wrenches (open/box end) in metric sizes
- Handy where sockets won’t fit; hold the box end on the nut and use the open end for leverage or vice versa.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For electrical connectors, clips, and prying small tabs.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- For hose clamps, cotter pins, and pulling connectors.
- Floor jack (2-ton minimum recommended)
- Lift the vehicle or support the transmission as needed. Always use jack stands under the vehicle after lifting.
- Jack stands (pair, rated for vehicle weight)
- Place on solid pinch-weld points or frame. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Transmission jack or helper + heavy-duty floor jack and wide wood block
- Supports and lowers the heavy transmission safely. A dedicated transmission jack is recommended; if using a floor jack, use a wide block and an assistant to guide the trans as it comes down.
- Clutch alignment tool (comes in most clutch kits or sold separately)
- Matches the spline of the transmission input shaft. Insert through the clutch disc into the pilot bearing to center the disc while torquing the pressure plate bolts.
- Flywheel holding tool or pry bar (or large screwdriver) — use carefully
- Prevents engine rotation while loosening/tightening flywheel/pressure-plate bolts. Use a tool that engages the flywheel teeth or pry against a bolt head; be careful not to damage the starter or flywheel teeth.
- Pilot bearing/bushing driver and puller (if replacing pilot bearing)
- Removes and installs the pilot bearing without damaging the crankshaft bore.
- Torque screwdriver or small torque wrench (for small fasteners)
- For consistent small fastener torques as required.
- Drain pan and rags
- Catch any transmission fluid and clean parts with rags.
- Brake cleaner/degreaser
- Cleans oil/grease from flywheel and new clutch surfaces.
- High-temp grease (small amount) for release bearing splines and slave/throwout contact points
- Use sparingly—do not get grease on clutch friction surfaces.
- Threadlocker (medium strength) and anti-seize
- Threadlocker for bolts that require it (consult manual), anti-seize for bolts that may seize from heat/corrosion; avoid threadlocker where specified otherwise.
- Service manual or printout of factory torque specs and step sequence
- Essential reference for torque numbers, bolt sequences, and removal notes.

- Extra or recommended tools and why
- Transmission jack (recommended)
- Makes removal/reinstallation much safer and easier; prevents dropping or misaligning the transmission.
- Flywheel resurfacing or replacement tools (or shop service)
- If the flywheel is warped or heat‑spotted it must be resurfaced. Most home mechanics send the flywheel to a machine shop.
- Impact wrench (optional, use with care)
- Speeds removal of stubborn bolts but avoid using for final torque on clutch/flywheel bolts; finish with a torque wrench.

- Parts you will likely need and why
- Clutch pressure plate
- The component you asked about. Old pressure plates lose clamping force and can slip; replace if worn, warped, or if disc replacement is done.
- Clutch disc (always replace with the pressure plate)
- Friction material is consumable; replace the disc whenever the pressure plate is off.
- Throwout (release) bearing
- Worn throwout bearings cause noise and failure to disengage the clutch; replace whenever you drop the transmission.
- Pilot bearing/bushing
- Located in the crankshaft or flywheel center, it centers the input shaft. Replace if noisy or whenever the clutch is replaced.
- Flywheel (resurface or replace)
- Inspect for hot spots, scoring, cracking or excessive runout. Resurface if within thickness spec; replace if damaged beyond resurfacing or if below minimum thickness.
- Clutch alignment tool (often included in a clutch kit)
- Needed to center the disc during installation.
- Transmission output seal / rear main seal (inspect and replace if leaking)
- Access to these seals is much easier with the transmission removed; if leaking, replace now to avoid removing the trans later.
- Complete clutch kit (pressure plate, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing, alignment tool)
- Buying a full kit is strongly recommended — ensures compatible parts and saves repeat labor.

- General procedure (high-level steps in safe order)
- Prepare vehicle: disconnect battery, lift rear (and front if needed) and support with jack stands, chock wheels.
- Remove components blocking transmission removal: driveshaft (manual RWD), shift linkage, speedometer cable/sensors, starter motor, exhaust crossmember if it blocks, and any wiring harness connectors on the trans.
- Support the transmission with a transmission jack or floor jack and remove transmission mount bolts.
- Unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts and carefully slide the transmission straight back from the engine, lowering it on the jack. Have an assistant guide it if possible.
- Once transmission is clear, remove the old pressure plate by loosening the bolts in an even star pattern a little at a time to avoid warping.
- Inspect the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, pilot bushing, and release bearing:
- Clutch disc: replace if friction is thin, glazed, or contaminated.
- Pressure plate: replace if warped, cracked, or springs are weak.
- Flywheel: if smooth and within spec, you can reuse; if glazed/hot‑spotted/scored, have it resurfaced or replaced. Check runout.
- Pilot bearing: if noisy or seized, replace.
- Release bearing: always replace; it’s cheap relative to the labor.
- Clean the flywheel mating surface with brake cleaner; do not get solvents on the new disc.
- Install new pilot bearing if replacing—drive it squarely into place with a driver sized to the bearing outer race.
- Position the new clutch disc and pressure plate. Use the clutch alignment tool through the disc splines into the pilot bearing to center the disc.
- Tighten pressure plate bolts gradually in a star pattern to the specified torque in the service manual. Use the torque wrench; final torque is critical and must be even.
- Remove the alignment tool, ensure the disc is centered and spins freely on the input shaft a bit.
- Reinstall transmission carefully, guiding the input shaft into the clutch disc splines. You may need to wiggle the trans slightly while pushing in until the bellhousing seats against the engine.
- Reinstall and torque bellhousing bolts, transmission mount, starter, linkage, driveshaft, exhaust, electrical connectors.
- Refill transmission fluid if you drained it or if some leaked during removal.
- Reconnect battery and test clutch operation with the vehicle safely on the ground.

- Important technique notes
- Always loosen clutch/pressure-plate bolts a little at a time in an even star pattern to avoid warping.
- Use the clutch alignment tool to ensure the input shaft will engage the disc easily during reinstallation.
- Use a torque wrench for final tightening — incorrect torque can cause clutch chatter, slipping, or bolts to break.
- Keep grease off friction surfaces. Apply a light smear of high-temp grease to the input-shaft splines where the disc slides and to the release-bearing contact points only.
- Label electrical connectors and take photos before removal if you’re unsure where things go.

- When flywheel resurfacing or replacement is required
- Resurface if there are glaze marks, heat spots, light scoring, or slight unevenness — machine shops can resurface to a flat smooth finish.
- Replace if depth is below factory minimum thickness, if cracked, or if damage is beyond machining limits.
- Resurfacing is recommended anytime you replace the clutch if the flywheel shows signs of overheating or uneven wear.

- Final checks and break-in
- Verify all fasteners torqued to spec per the factory manual.
- Test for proper clutch engagement and free play at the pedal (adjust linkage or hydraulic system per manual).
- Perform a clutch break-in procedure: avoid heavy loads or slipping the clutch for the first 300–500 miles to allow the surfaces to bed properly.

- Quick parts-buy checklist (recommended)
- Complete clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, alignment tool)
- Pilot bearing/bushing
- Rear main seal or transmission input seal (inspect and replace if leaking)
- Flywheel resurfacing or replacement if needed
- Clutch hardware (bolts if supplied or specified to replace)

- Final note
- Clutch jobs require moderate mechanical skill and safe lifting/support practices. If you don’t have a transmission jack, a helper and careful floor-jack method can work but is riskier. If unsure about flywheel condition or critical steps, have the flywheel inspected/resurfaced by a machine shop and consult a factory service manual for exact torque specs and procedures for the Toyota 22R / 22R‑E.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

22RE ROCK CRAWLER ON 37'S GETS 20 MPG!! You guys asked and here it is! The secrets to getting great mpg out of your old 22re ;) Helpful Links: 4Crawler AFM Test: ...

TOYOTA 22RE ENGINE REBUILD - Part 1/2 - Teardown and analysis of a poor running 22R Toyota legend... My 1985 Celica GT Coupe was barely running when I bought it, but I knew that I could bring the legendary 22R-E back to life!

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- Safety first
- Work on a cool, well-ventilated area away from open flames; exhaust components get extremely hot.
- Wear eye protection, heavy gloves, long sleeves, and a dust mask/respirator when grinding or cutting rusted metal.
- Use jack stands on solid level ground — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing anything that involves the oxygen sensor or electrical connectors.
- Be aware local law: catalytic converters are emissions devices and replacement/alteration may be regulated or illegal if not compliant with emissions rules.

- Essential tools (what they are and how to use them)
- Floor jack
- Low-profile hydraulic jack for lifting the truck. Place under specified pinch weld or proper lift points, pump handle to raise.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Support vehicle after lifting. Place on firm ground, set height, and slowly lower vehicle onto stands. Check stability before working underneath.
- Wheel chocks
- Wedges placed behind wheels to prevent roll. Always chock wheels opposite the end you lift.
- Safety glasses and gloves
- Protect eyes from debris and hands from cuts and heat.
- Metric socket set (3/8" and 1/2" drive) including 10mm–19mm sockets
- Standard set for removing nuts/bolts on exhaust flanges and brackets. Use correct size socket, pull straight to avoid rounding fasteners.
- Breaker bar
- Long-handled bar to break loose seized bolts. Fit socket, apply steady pressure; don’t jerk.
- Ratchet and extensions
- For working in tight spots. Use short extension for high torque; longer extensions increase reach.
- Torque wrench (range ~10–100 ft·lb)
- Final-tighten bolts to proper torque to avoid leaks/stripped threads. Set to specified value and tighten smoothly.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, WD-40 Specialist)
- Spray on rusted bolts/studs, let soak several hours or overnight to loosen corrosion before attempting removal.
- Oxygen sensor socket (or 22 mm deep socket with slot)
- Specialized socket with a cutout to remove/ reinstall O2 sensor without damaging its wire. Use wrench to turn counterclockwise to remove.
- Pry bar / exhaust hanger pliers
- Use to remove rubber exhaust hangers from hangers. Pry bar helps lower the exhaust assembly.
- Replacement flange gaskets and new nuts/bolts (stainless recommended)
- Gaskets ensure a leak-free flange connection; bolts often corrode and should be replaced.
- Anti-seize compound
- Apply to threads of new O2 sensor and bolts to prevent future seizing (use sparingly on sensor threads only if manufacturer allows).
- Wire brush
- Clean mating surfaces before installing new gasket.
- Hammer and punch
- Help remove seized studs or to tap parts free gently.
- Flashlight or work light
- Illuminate work area.

- Recommended/optional extra tools (why they may be required)
- Reciprocating saw (Sawzall) with metal-cutting blade
- Required if flange bolts/studs are rusted solid and cannot be removed; cut through pipe or bolts to free converter. Use with care — protect fuel lines, wiring, and you.
- Angle grinder with cutoff wheel
- Faster cuts on heavy corrosion; produces sparks — use caution and have a fire extinguisher.
- Oxy-acetylene torch
- Can heat and free stubborn bolts; not recommended for beginners due to fire risk and proximity to fuel lines and heat-sensitive parts.
- Exhaust flange spreader or C-clamp
- Helps align and compress new gasket during installation.
- Exhaust pipe expander or clamp-style adapter
- Useful if you buy a universal converter that needs clamping to the pipe.
- Impact wrench (air or electric)
- Speeds removal of rusted nuts and bolts but use carefully to avoid rounding heads.

- Parts commonly required and why
- Replacement catalytic converter (direct-fit or universal)
- Direct-fit: pre-flanged to bolt into OE locations; easiest for a like-for-like replacement.
- Universal: pipe sections that must be welded or clamped; used if direct-fit unavailable or for custom installs.
- Required if damaged (rattling, broken internals), clogged (poor power, failed emissions test), or removed/illegally modified.
- New flange gaskets (exhaust manifold-to-converter and converter-to-pipe)
- Gaskets seal the flanges to prevent exhaust leaks; always replace when you remove the converter.
- New bolts/nuts/studs/washers (high-temp stainless)
- Corrosion-prone OEM hardware often seizes; replace to ensure secure fastening.
- Oxygen sensor (if faulty or damaged)
- EFI 22R-E typically has at least one O2 sensor (upstream); if O2 sensor threads or wires are damaged during removal, replace to maintain fuel trim and emissions.
- Exhaust hangers or rubber mounts (if brittle)
- Support the weight of the exhaust; replace if cracked.
- Heat shield pieces (if removed/damaged)
- Protect wiring and fuel lines from heat; restore if missing.

- Quick diagnostic signs that replacement is needed
- Loud exhaust noise or intermittent rattling from under vehicle (broken/loose internals).
- Check Engine Light and stored emissions codes (P0420 indicates catalyst efficiency below threshold — usually indicates converter issue but can be O2 sensor or exhaust leak).
- Noticeable loss of power, poor acceleration, or black smoke (clogged converter).
- Visual damage, holes, or severe rust at the converter body.

- Procedure (basic flow — follow vehicle manual for torque specs)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery, let exhaust cool fully.
- Raise vehicle with floor jack, place on jack stands securely; confirm stable before crawling under.
- Locate catalytic converter between exhaust manifold/downpipe and the muffler; identify O2 sensor(s) and flanges.
- Spray penetrating oil liberally on all flange bolts/studs and let soak several hours (overnight if possible).
- Disconnect O2 sensor(s) using oxygen sensor socket and set aside; label connectors if needed.
- Support the exhaust downstream of the converter with a jack or support strap to take weight off hangers.
- Remove nuts/bolts at flanges using socket/breaker bar; if they break or are immovable:
- Soak more penetrating oil and try again.
- Use heat cautiously to expand and free bolts (avoid fuel lines and sensors).
- If still stuck, cut the bolts or pipe with a reciprocating saw or angle grinder — cut flush so the flange can be removed.
- Detach exhaust hangers with pry bar or hanger pliers as needed to free converter.
- Remove old converter; inspect mating surfaces and hangers for damage.
- Clean flange faces with wire brush. Replace gaskets and hardware.
- Position new converter (direct-fit recommended). Reinstall and hand-thread new bolts/nuts to align, tighten progressively.
- Apply anti-seize to O2 sensor threads (manufacturer permitting) and reinstall sensors, reconnect electrical connectors.
- Torque flange bolts to factory specs (if you don’t have the spec, tighten evenly until snug and check for leaks after initial run; obtain manual torque values for final torque).
- Lower vehicle off jack stands, reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and check for exhaust leaks (listen for hissing near flanges), verify there are no check-engine lights or O2 sensor trouble codes.
- If codes persist, clear codes and drive to see if P0420 clears; if not, the converter or O2 sensors may need re-evaluation.

- Troubleshooting tips and cautions
- If converter rattles internally and there is physical damage, replacement is required.
- If P0420 appears but converter is visually fine, check for exhaust leaks, faulty O2 sensors, or engine misfires before replacing converter.
- Cutting rusted bolts may be necessary — plan for replacement hardware and expect to clean or repair surrounding areas.
- Avoid using excessive heat near fuel lines, brake lines, wiring harnesses, and the fuel tank.
- If you lack confidence with cutting, heating, or heavy rust, consider a professional shop — cutting/welding mistakes can be dangerous.

- Disposal and legal notes
- Catalytic converters contain precious metals; many scrap yards buy used converters. However, selling or replacing converters may be subject to local regulations.
- Keep receipts and ensure replacement parts meet emissions requirements for your vehicle and location.

- Final practical advice for a beginner
- Buy a direct-fit replacement converter and a hardware kit (gaskets, bolts) to minimize welding and fabrication.
- Soak fasteners with penetrating oil well in advance.
- Have an exhaust shop available as backup if bolts are immovable or welding is required.
- Take photos during disassembly to help with reassembly.


rteeqp73

- Purpose and quick diagnosis
- PCV valve controls crankcase ventilation; a stuck or clogged valve causes rough idle, oil leaks, increased oil consumption, smoky exhaust, or check-engine light on EFI 22R-E.
- Simple bench test: shake the old valve — a working valve rattles. If it’s silent or sticky, replace it.

- Parts that may need replacement and why
- PCV valve (required if rattling absent, sticky, clogged, or as preventative maintenance). Direct-fit aftermarket or OEM replacement for Toyota 22R / 22R-E; buy by engine/year or match the part visually.
- Rubber grommet (often hardens or cracks with age; causes vacuum leaks) — replace if brittle or loose.
- Vacuum hose from PCV valve to intake or throttle-body (cracked, collapsed, oily inside) — replace if deteriorated or soft.
- Hose clamp(s) (cheap, replace if corroded or won’t tighten).
- Valve cover gasket (only if you remove valve cover or if you notice oil leaks from around the cover while servicing). Replace only if leaking.
- Optional: air cleaner element (if you remove the air box and it’s dirty).

- Basic tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Ratchet and socket set (3/8" drive commonly):
- Description: ratchet handle with interchangeable sockets sized to nuts/bolts. Sockets are labelled in mm.
- How to use: choose matching socket, push onto ratchet square drive, place on fastener, set ratchet direction lever for loosening/tightening, apply steady force. Use short bursts if space is tight. Use an extension to reach recessed fasteners.
- Combination wrench set (metric):
- Description: open-end on one side and boxed end on the other; used where ratchet won’t fit.
- How to use: select the correct size, place boxed end fully over bolt head, pull to loosen; open end can slip, so use boxed end where possible.
- Flathead screwdriver:
- Description: straight blade tip used for prying or turning slotted screws and spring clamps.
- How to use: insert blade into clamp slot to pry up or turn screws; use as a light pry tool on hoses but avoid excessive leverage to prevent damage.
- Pliers (regular slip-joint and needle-nose if available):
- Description: hand tool with jaws to grip, twist, and pull; needle-nose for tight spots.
- How to use: grip the hose or clamp with jaws, squeeze to compress or twist, pull off firmly while working back and forth. Use needle-nose to reach small clamps or pull small parts.
- Utility knife or hose cutter:
- Description: small blade used to cut old hoses cleanly.
- How to use: score and slice through hose; cut squarely to fit new hose over fittings.
- Flashlight or inspection light:
- Description: handheld light to illuminate engine bay.
- How to use: position to shine into PCV area while you work; helps to see grommet condition and hose routing.
- Shop rags and disposable gloves:
- Description: absorb oil and keep hands clean; gloves protect skin.
- How to use: wipe surfaces, hold oily parts, and protect hands when removing sticky hoses.
- Penetrating oil (WD-40 or PB Blaster) — optional but often helpful:
- Description: chemical to loosen stuck rubber and metal connections.
- How to use: spray a small amount on a stuck hose or valve base, let soak a minute, then twist and pull.
- Small container or magnetic tray:
- Description: holds removed small parts and prevents loss.
- How to use: place removed screws, clamps, and valve into it to keep organized.

- Extra tools that might be required (and why)
- Small pick or flat pry tool: needed if the rubber grommet is brittle and the valve is stuck in the valve cover; helps lever the old grommet out without damaging the cover.
- Vacuum gauge (optional, for troubleshooting on 22R-E EFI): allows you to check vacuum and confirm correct operation after replacement; not required just to swap the valve.
- Torque wrench (optional): only required if you remove any bolts that have specific torque specs (rare for PCV swap). Most PCV jobs don’t require precise torque.
- Replacement clamps (worm-gear screw clamps): recommended if original clamps are corroded or missing — they secure new hoses.

- Preparation and safety (before you start)
- Work on a cool or warm engine (not red hot). Hot metal and oil can burn.
- Park on level ground, engine off, key out. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Keep rags handy for oil and to protect painted surfaces.

- Procedure (concise step-by-step in logical order)
- Locate the PCV valve: trace the hose from the valve cover or air cleaner to the intake or throttle body; on 22R/22R-E the PCV is typically seated in the valve cover or connected under the air cleaner assembly.
- Remove any obstructing air cleaner parts: use a socket or screwdriver to loosen clamps or remove wing nuts; move the air cleaner housing enough to access the PCV hose.
- Inspect the hose and fittings: look for cracks, oil saturation, or collapse; decide if hose/grommet must be replaced before reinstalling new valve.
- Remove the PCV valve:
- If attached with a hose clamp: loosen clamp with screwdriver or pliers and pull hose off the valve.
- If the valve is pressed into a grommet on the valve cover: grip the valve (use pliers with a rag to avoid marring) and twist while pulling straight out; apply penetrating oil if stuck and let sit briefly.
- If the grommet is stuck in the cover, use a small pick or pry tool to lift it out gently.
- Test the old valve (optional): shake it — a rattle indicates the internal check mechanism moves. No rattle = replace.
- Install the new PCV valve:
- Ensure the grommet is in good condition or replace it first. Seat the grommet fully into the valve cover/airbox port.
- Push the new PCV valve into the grommet until fully seated. It should fit snugly with minimal play.
- Reattach the vacuum hose onto the new valve and secure with a clamp if fitted. If replacing hose, cut to length and slide over fittings and clamp.
- Reassemble air cleaner/cover and any removed parts: tighten clamps/wings snugly.
- Start engine and check for leaks or hissing (vacuum leak). Listen for smooth idle and note if idle improves.
- Dispose of old parts responsibly and wipe any spilled oil.

- Common pitfalls and fixes
- Stuck valve: apply penetrating oil, twist while pulling, use pliers with rag for grip. If grommet tears, replace grommet.
- Vacuum leak after install: check for damaged/new hose not seated fully or missing grommet — reseat and tighten clamps.
- Cracked valve cover or broken grommet seat: if damaged, you may need a valve cover repair or replacement; if you see obvious damage replace the cover or use a correct-sized grommet.

- What to buy and specifications to match
- PCV valve: buy one listed for Toyota 22R / 22R-E or match the physical shape and hose barb size. OEM or quality aftermarket brands are fine.
- Rubber grommet sized for the valve cover port — match inner/outer diameters.
- Vacuum hose (vacuum-rated, inner diameter matching PCV valve barb, typically small ~1/4" to 5/16" ID — confirm by measuring).
- Hose clamps: small stainless worm clamps that fit the hose diameter.

- Final checks and signs job is successful
- Smooth idle, no oil smell inside cabin, no visible oil leaks, no vacuum whistling.
- On EFI 22R-E you may see improved idle stability and lower idle CO/HC if prior valve was clogged.

- Quick cost and time estimate
- Time: 15–45 minutes for a beginner depending on accessibility and stuck parts.
- Cost: PCV valve typically –, grommet –, hose and clamps –. Total usually under unless additional parts needed.

- Short safety reminder
- Work with engine off and cool; use eye protection and gloves; secure loose clothing and tools away from belts and fans when running the engine for testing.

No questions.
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