Tools & supplies
- Floor jack + jack stands (rated for vehicle weight), wheel chocks
- Socket set (metric: 10–32 mm), deep sockets, extensions, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (range to 200 ft·lb / 270 N·m)
- Impact wrench (optional but helpful)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil)
- Hammer, drift/punch, pry bar
- Ball-peen or dead-blow hammer, pry bar
- Bench or hydraulic press (for bushing removal) OR threaded-rod bushing press kit / large sockets and nuts
- Wire brush, file
- New trailing arm (OEM or quality aftermarket) + replacement bushings (if not integral)
- New pivot bolts/nuts (high-strength OEM-spec or supplied with arm) and any new washers/pins
- Anti-seize or thread locker (per manual)
- Brake line pliers, zip-ties or hose supports
- Safety glasses, gloves

Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Work on a level surface. Chock front wheels. Never rely on a jack alone — always use properly rated jack stands.
- Support the rear axle with a jack or stand before removing suspension mounting hardware.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Be aware of stored energy in springs or shocks.
- If springs are involved (coil/leaf) treat as a separate spring-compression job — use correct spring compressor or follow factory procedure. If you’re not experienced with spring work, get professional help.

Overview
Trailing arms on Toyota pickups/4Runners with the 22R/22R‑E engine are a rear suspension link between axle and frame. Replacement generally requires supporting the axle, removing shock(s), disconnecting brake/hardware, removing the pivot bolts at axle and frame, replacing the arm (and bushings), then reassembly and torquing to spec. Always consult the factory service manual for exact torque values and any model-year-specific steps. Below is a safe, general step‑by‑step procedure and notes on tool use and pitfalls.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock front wheels, set parking brake.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts slightly (if you’ll remove wheels).
- Spray penetrating oil on trailing-arm bolts, nuts, shock bolts, and any rusted hardware; let soak.

2) Raise and support vehicle
- Lift rear with floor jack under axle center or rear crossmember. Raise enough to remove wheel and allow access.
- Place jack stands under the frame rail/axle stands points. Lower vehicle onto jack stands. Re-check stability.
- Support the axle with a second jack (under the axle tube) so you can control axle movement when bolts are removed.

How the jack/stands are used: jack supports weight for placement; jack stands take the load. The axle jack keeps the axle from dropping when the trailing-arm is disconnected.

3) Remove wheel (if required)
- Remove wheel(s) for access. Clean around work area with wire brush.

4) Disconnect brake/parking brake hardware
- Unclip/uncouple parking brake cable from arm or backing plate as needed.
- If the trailing arm or axle mount interferes with brake lines, support brake line to vehicle body with zip-tie or hanger — do NOT let lines hang under tension.
- Do NOT open hydraulic brake lines. If you must disconnect a line, be prepared to bleed brakes.

5) Remove shock absorber lower bolt
- Remove lower shock bolt/nut to free motion of axle relative to body. Use penetrating oil and breaker bar or impact.
- Retain hardware or replace if corroded.

6) Support and relieve axle load
- With axle supported on jack, lower/frame to place load off trailing-arm bolts so bolts can be removed by hand or with tool — but do not remove load entirely; keep jack supporting axle.

7) Remove trailing-arm pivot bolts
- There are typically two main pivot bolts: one at the frame (inner) and one at the axle bracket (outer). Use breaker bar/impact and appropriate size socket. If bolts are heavily corroded, apply more penetrating oil and let soak, then use heat if necessary (oxy/propane torch) — heat only after removing brake lines and with caution.
- How to use tools: use breaker bar for stubborn bolts; an impact wrench greatly speeds removal. Use a 6-point socket to avoid rounding heads. If bolt head or nut rounds, cut off nut or use extractor; be prepared to drill/tap.
- Keep the axle jack under control; as bolts are removed the arm can pivot or drop—control it.

8) Remove the trailing arm
- Once bolts are out, pull arm free. You may need to use a pry bar to separate pressed-in bushings from mounts. Inspect mounting surfaces, clean with wire brush.

9) Inspect and press out/in bushings (if replacing bushings)
- If the new arm does not come with new bushings, press out old bushings on a press or using threaded-rod press method: use a socket that bears on the outer shell and a smaller socket to push the inner sleeve through. Work slowly, use plenty of lubrication, protect the arm.
- Install new bushings by pressing them squarely in. Use correct tool/adapter so you press on the bushing shell, not the rubber cushion. If new arm comes pre-bushed, skip this.

How the press is used: position the arm in the press with bushing aligned, press with steady even pressure until bushing seats fully. Do NOT hammer rubber bushings; they will be damaged.

10) Fit new trailing arm
- Position new arm, start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Apply anti-seize or thread locker as manufacturer recommends. Insert pivot bolts and hand-tighten nuts.
- If bolts are tight and alignment is hard, use jack to move axle slightly until holes line up; avoid forcing bolts at odd angles.

11) Torque bolts to spec
- Torque all pivot bolts and nuts to factory specifications. If you don’t have the manual: get the exact numbers before final torque. Important note: many suspension bushing pivot bolts must be torqued with the vehicle at normal ride height (i.e., with weight on wheels) to avoid preloading and premature bushing failure. Procedure:
- Tighten bolts finger-tight with vehicle on stands so bushings settle naturally.
- Lower vehicle onto wheels (remove stands carefully) so suspension is at normal height, then re-torque pivot bolts with torque wrench to factory torque.
- Use torque wrench properly: set value, snug bolt, then apply smooth increasing force until click/indicator.

12) Reattach shock lower bolt and brake hardware
- Reinstall shock lower bolt and torque to spec.
- Reattach parking brake cable, brake line clips.
- Ensure all hardware is tight and routed correctly.

13) Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torques
- Put wheel back on, snug lug nuts. Lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec in star pattern.
- If you torqued pivot bolts at ride height in step 11, they should already be correct.

14) Final checks & test drive
- Check for interference, rubbing, loose lines.
- Perform a short test drive at low speed, listen for clunks. After 50–100 miles, re-check torque on pivot bolts and lug nuts.
- Have alignment checked if geometry was affected (recommended if arm replaced or control-arm geometry changed).

Replacement parts & consumables to plan on
- New trailing arm (OEM or high-quality aftermarket).
- New bushings (if not included with arm). Some arms come pre-bushed.
- New pivot bolts/nuts/washers (replace corroded or safety-critical fasteners).
- New shock mounting hardware if worn.
- Brake line clips or hangers if damaged.
- Thread locker or anti-seize as specified.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Relying only on a jack: always use jack stands.
- Not supporting the axle: axle can drop suddenly and damage brake lines or cause injury.
- Rounding bolt heads: use 6-point sockets, proper-size sockets, and penetrating oil. Heat if necessary, but be careful around brake lines and fuel.
- Reusing old bolts/nuts: corrosion weakens fasteners — replace them.
- Not torquing at ride height: torquing pivot bolts with suspension unloaded can preload/warp bushings — tighten at normal ride height per manual.
- Damaging bushings while pressing: press evenly, use correct adapters, don’t hammer rubber.
- Forgetting to support/remove parking brake or brake wear sensors — can break or bind cables.
- Skipping alignment: even small geometry changes can cause tire wear or handling problems.

Torque specs / manual
- Exact torque values vary by year/model. Always use Toyota factory service manual (TSM) for your specific truck. If you don’t have it, obtain a reliable source (Alldata, Haynes with spec appendix, or Toyota dealer). Example: some large trailing-arm bolts are 120–200 ft·lb range — do not guess.

Final notes
- If bolts are seized to the axle bracket or frame and you lack cutting/pressing tools, consider replacing the entire bracket/arm assembly or seek a pro to avoid damaging axle housing.
- If you’re uncomfortable with spring work, heavy rust, or seized fasteners, have a professional perform the job.

Done.
rteeqp73

22re valve seat replacement In this video I show you how to check your valves and change your valve seats. enjoy!

22R Toyota Full Build We were privelaged enough to take on another awesome build owned by Kenny Alvarez. His all original 1982 Toyota SR5 Pickup ...

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