- Safety and prep
- Work on a cold engine, parking brake on, wheels chocked.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental cranking.
- Wear safety glasses and disposable gloves; keep rags handy for oil.
- Have a clear, flat work area and a container for small parts.

- Tools you already probably have (basic tools) — description and how to use each
- Socket set (metric): contains ratchet, extensions, and deep/shallow sockets.
- Use the proper socket size on nuts and bolts; push the socket fully onto the fastener, use an extension to reach recessed bolts, and pull the ratchet toward you (not jerk) to avoid rounding bolts.
- Combination wrenches (metric): open and box ends.
- Use box end for most nuts to avoid rounding; pull, don’t push if working in tight spaces to reduce risk of slipping.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): for hose clamps and small screws.
- Use the correct size and tip to avoid stripping heads; pry gently if needed.
- Pliers (standard and needle-nose): hold, grip, bend small clips or wires.
- Use for removing clips and routing wires; don’t use pliers as a hammer or to loosen large fasteners.
- Shop rags and paper towels: keep surfaces clean and catch oil.
- Wipe parts before reassembly; clean mating surfaces.
- Drain pan: catch any oil that leaks when valve cover is removed.
- Place under the engine area to catch drips and keep the workspace clean.
- Magnet on a stick or telescoping pickup: retrieve dropped nuts/bolts.
- Move slowly; a dropped fastener in the valley can be painful to retrieve.
- Flashlight or work light: illuminate rocker area and pushrods.
- Bright, angled light helps inspect for wear or damage.

- Extra tools strongly recommended (why required and how to use)
- Torque wrench (click-type, suitable range for small fasteners)
- Why: ensures rocker nuts and valve cover bolts are tightened to factory specs; prevents stripped studs and improper valve operation.
- How to use: set desired torque, snug fastener, then apply steady force until wrench clicks. Consult a repair manual for exact torque values.
- Magnetic tray or small organizer
- Why: keeps hardware in order and prevents loss.
- How to use: put removed nuts/bolts in numbered or labeled compartments corresponding to their original location.
- Feeler gauge set
- Why: needed if the valvetrain is adjustable (some 22R variants use adjusters); for checking/re-setting valve lash if required.
- How to use: insert gauge between rocker adjuster and valve tip when checking clearance, adjust until correct feeler size slides with slight resistance.
- Small dial indicator or straight edge (or a bench vise and light)
- Why: checking pushrod straightness and rocker tip wear requires a flat reference or rolling test.
- How to use: lay pushrod on a flat surface and roll; a bent rod will rock or show a gap. A dial indicator will show runout if available.
- Torque screwdriver or impact driver (only if covering stubborn screws)
- Why: for stuck screws—use carefully to avoid damage.
- Service manual or OEM repair guide for the Toyota 22R / 22R-E
- Why: contains exact torque specs, valve adjustment procedure, and clearances specific to model/year.
- How to use: follow the sequence and torque numbers it provides; treat it as authoritative.

- Preparatory steps before touching pushrods
- Remove air cleaner, battery if it obstructs access, and any hoses/wiring on the valve cover.
- Label and disconnect spark plug wires so they don’t get mixed up (pull boots, not wires).
- Remove the valve cover bolts and valve cover; collect the cover gasket if it sticks — expect to replace it.
- Clean the top of the head and rocker area to prevent dirt falling into the engine.

- Removing and inspecting pushrods (keep each rod in its original position)
- Locate the rocker arms and pushrods once the valve cover is off.
- Turn the engine by hand (use a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt) to bring each cylinder to a known position; the typical approach is to rotate the engine so the cylinder you work on has both valves closed (compression stroke) so the rocker is loose.
- Loosen and remove rocker arm nuts/bolts while holding the rocker (if nuts are tight, use the correct socket or wrench). Keep the rocker assembly and separate hardware in order.
- Lift the rocker(s) off and carefully lift the pushrod straight out of the lifter bore. Place the pushrod on a clean bench in a layout that marks its original cylinder and orientation.
- Inspect each pushrod:
- Straightness: roll the rod on a known-flat surface; if it rocks or there's visible bending, it’s bad.
- Ends: check both ends (the cup/tip and the ball end); look for mushrooming, pitting, flattened or concave surfaces — any deformation means replacement.
- Surface: look for heavy scoring, discoloration from overheating, or roughness; replace if present.
- Length: if you have a micrometer or caliper, verify length against specs; major deviation = replace.
- Inspect lifter bores and lifters (or tappets):
- Look for scoring, excessive wear, or stuck lifters. A lifter that doesn’t move freely or is pitted should be replaced.
- Inspect rocker arms and studs:
- Rocker tips that are degraded, grooved or rounded should be replaced. Studs with thread damage should be replaced and torqued correctly.

- Reinstallation and setup
- Keep every pushrod in the exact cylinder bore and orientation it came from unless you’re replacing them all.
- Lightly oil pushrod ends with clean engine oil so they seat smoothly.
- Reinstall pushrods into their lifter bores, seated straight.
- Reinstall rocker arms and finger-tighten nuts/bolts to hold parts in place.
- If the engine has adjustable rockers/solid lifters:
- Use the feeler gauge and the manual’s valve lash specification to set clearances. Adjust the adjuster screw until the correct feeler thickness fits with slight drag, then lock the adjuster nut while holding the adjuster.
- If the engine uses hydraulic lifters (and is non-adjustable): follow the manual’s pushrod/rocker reinstallation and torque sequence; generally you preload the rocker lightly then torque to spec.
- Torque all rocker nuts/bolts to factory specification with the torque wrench in the correct sequence to avoid misloading valves.
- Rotate the engine by hand two full revolutions and re-check clearance/tightness and that all pushrods remain seated.
- Replace valve cover gasket (recommended) and reinstall valve cover, torquing bolts evenly to spec.
- Reconnect spark plug wires, battery, and any removed components.

- Signs that parts must be replaced and which parts to replace
- Pushrods
- Replace if bent, mushroomed, scored, or if ends are worn.
- Rocker arms
- Replace if tips are worn, rounded, or if the arm shows cracking or severe wear.
- Lifters/tappets
- Replace if pitted, stuck, flat-backed, or if they don’t move freely; hydraulic lifters that chatter or can’t hold oil pressure need replacement.
- Rocker studs/nuts
- Replace if threads are damaged or if studs are stretched; nuts should be replaced if they’ve been rounded.
- Valve cover gasket
- Replace every time you remove the cover (gaskets are cheap and sealing is critical).
- Pushrod tube seals (if applicable)
- Replace if they leak oil.
- Cylinder head or valves
- Replace or repair only if severe damage is found (bent valves, broken rocker stud, or damaged head). Head removal is an advanced job.
- When in doubt, replace pushrods in sets for even wear rather than mixing old and new.

- Quick tests and checks
- Bent pushrod test: roll on flat surface — wobble = bent.
- End wear: shine a light and look for deformities; pitted or mushroomed ends must be replaced.
- Lifter movement: with rocker off, a hydraulic lifter should retract slightly and move smoothly; stuck units need replacement.
- After reassembly, listen at idle for abnormal valvetrain noise (ticking, clattering); persistent noise may indicate incorrect adjustment or a bad part.

- Parts sourcing and quality
- Buy OEM or high-quality aftermarket pushrods and rockers; cheap parts wear faster.
- Buy a valve cover gasket and any seals removed.
- If replacing lifters, replace in sets or all at once for even performance.
- Use parts specific to 22R or 22R-E (they share many valve-train parts but check fitment by year and VIN).

- Final notes and warnings (no yapping)
- Use a factory service manual for torque numbers and valve lash specs — do not guess torques.
- Keep pushrods and rockers in order during the job — mixing them up can cause improper seating and damage.
- If you find heavy wear to multiple components, budget for replacing pushrods, rockers, and lifters together.
- If you are not confident tightening to correct torque or setting lash, ask a shop to verify — improper assembly can cause engine damage.

Done.
rteeqp73

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