Tools / supplies needed
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/box wrench sets, breaker bar, extensions, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench (capable to factory torque values).
- Engine hoist and stand (recommended). Floor jack + strong engine support if leaving in chassis (not recommended).
- Impact / air tools (optional).
- Oil drain pan, rags, solvent (brake cleaner), shop towels.
- Micrometer (0.0001" or 0.01 mm resolution) for crank journal measurement.
- Dial bore gauge or inside micrometer (for main bore if machining is done).
- Plastigage strips (appropriate width) and scale.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (to measure crank endplay).
- Feeler gauges, straightedge.
- Soft-faced hammer, wooden dowel.
- Bearing installation/assembly lube.
- Cleaning brushes, compressed air.
- New main bearing shells (correct sizes/undersize if crank is reground), thrust washers, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, main cap bolts if damaged — and preferably new rod bearings at same time.
- Optional: crankshaft grinder/polishing service (if journals scored), torque-to-yield bolt replacement if required by spec.
- PPE: gloves, safety glasses.
Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface, secure the vehicle on jack stands if engine remains in chassis. Prefer engine removal for accuracy and access.
- Disconnect battery.
- Drain engine oil and coolant before disassembly.
- Use engine hoist/stand rated for the engine weight. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Keep work area clean; foreign material in bearings will cause immediate failure.
- Follow proper lifting techniques; protect hands from sharp edges.
- Dispose of fluids and old bearings per local regulations.
Overview of procedure (high-level)
1) Remove engine accessories and ancillaries needed to access oil pan and main caps (can be done engine-in or engine-out; engine-out recommended).
2) Drain oil, remove oil pan, oil pump, and then main bearing caps.
3) Remove crankshaft, inspect journals, measure journals and bearing bore/caps, and replace bearings or have crank reground if necessary.
4) Fit new bearings, measure clearances with plastigauge or by calculation using micrometer and known bearing thickness, check crank endplay with a dial indicator.
5) Reassemble with proper torque and sequence, prime oiling system, final checks.
Step-by-step detail
A. Preparation / teardown
1. Remove battery and tag/disconnect wiring harnesses, fuel lines, intake/exhaust manifolds, alternator, power steering, A/C compressor (move aside if not removing engine).
2. Drain engine oil and coolant.
3. Remove oil pan: unbolt, remove baffles, clean mating surfaces.
4. Remove oil pump (note pickup orientation) and pickup screen — inspect for metal debris (indicative of bearing failure).
5. Mark main caps and orientation: number each cap in order (1 through N) and mark direction (arrow or “FRONT”). Toyota 22R has four main caps (confirm count for your version) — keep caps matched to their journals and orientation. NEVER mix caps.
6. Remove main bearing caps: loosen bolts gradually in sequence to avoid rocker/stress distortion. Keep bolts organized in cap order.
B. Removing crank & inspection
1. With caps removed, lift crankshaft carefully (use clean rags under journals). If crank is heavy, use two people or hoist.
2. Inspect each journal for scoring, heat discoloration, pitting, or roughness.
3. Clean block and main cap mating surfaces—no nicks. Use solvent and compressed air but keep debris out of oil ways.
C. Measurement (what to measure and why)
1. Measure crank journals with micrometer at three positions (front, middle, rear) and at 90° increments to determine taper and out-of-round. Record values.
2. If you have access to a dial bore gauge, measure main bore diameters in each cap to check for alignment and wear. If you don’t, measure bearing housing O.D. where possible.
3. Measure bearing shell thickness (if you have spare shells) or refer to manufacturer spec.
4. Calculate bearing clearance: journal diameter subtracted from bearing inside diameter (bearing ID) — clearance must match factory spec. If not within spec:
- If journals are oversized (out of spec), crank must be reground and undersize bearings used.
- If block bores worn or caps out of alignment, have block align-bored/honed.
D. Plastigauge method (step-by-step usage)
Use Plastigauge when you have new bearings and want quick clearance check.
1. Clean journal and bearing surfaces.
2. Install new bearing shells in block mains and caps (ensure tangs/seats fully engaged, oil groove orientation correct; thrust washers in place at thrust location).
3. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with assembly lube — but do NOT smear plastigauge with oil.
4. Cut a 1.5–2 inch length of plastigauge strip and lay it on the journal perpendicular to crank axis (do not twist).
5. Carefully install the crankshaft into bearings, align caps (do not move shaft while caps go on).
6. Install main caps and tighten bolts to the specified torque used for checking plastigauge. Many mechanics torque to final spec for measurement — follow plastigauge instructions or factory manual (if unsure, torque to the specified torque for caps).
7. Remove caps carefully (do not rotate crank) and measure the flattened plastigauge width against the calibration scale to get clearance reading. Record readings for each main journal.
8. Clean off plastigauge remnants.
Notes on plastigauge: It gives a one-shot reading. If you need to remeasure, clean and repeat. Make sure you use the correct type (metric/imperial scale) and read at widest point.
E. Stern checks — thrust clearance and runout
1. Crank endplay: with crank installed and thrust bearings in place, mount dial indicator on a fixed point and push/pull crank to measure endplay. Compare to spec; adjust thrust washers if necessary.
2. Crank runout/twist: mount dial indicator on a main journal or flange and rotate crank to measure runout. Excessive runout indicates bent/cracked crank—machine shop required.
F. Interpreting measurements and required parts
- If clearances are within factory tolerance: you can reuse crank and use new OEM-quality bearing shells (standard size).
- If clearances are tight (below min): you may need larger clearance bearings (thinner shells), or if journal undersize is outside spec, machine work.
- If clearances are excessive: check for worn bores or journals; options are align-bore/hone block and use oversized bearings, or regrind crank and use undersize bearings.
- If journals are scored/scuffed/deep grooves: sending the crankshaft to a machine shop to polish or regrind is usually necessary. Do not install new bearings over heavily scored journals.
- Replace thrust washers and rear main seal whenever crank is removed.
- Replace main cap bolts if stretched, corroded, or if factory defines them as one-time torque-to-yield fasteners.
G. Reassembly (bearing installation and torquing)
1. Ensure block and caps are clean and dry.
2. Install new bearing shells in block and caps — line up locating tangs. Install thrust washers where required (usually center main).
3. Lightly coat bearing surface and journals with assembly lube (except in plastigauge measurement step where you avoid oil on plastigauge).
4. Place crankshaft into position carefully.
5. Install caps in their original order and orientation.
6. Tighten main cap bolts in the proper sequence (usually from center outward or as factory prescribes) in incremental steps to final torque. Use factory torque figures and method (some engines specify torque + angle). If you do not have the factory manual, obtain it — do not guess torque values.
7. After final torque, rotate the crank by hand — it should turn smoothly without binding. If binding occurs, stop and diagnose (wrong bearing, dirt, misaligned cap).
8. Check oil clearance again if you replaced bearings or machined crank.
H. Final installation and checks
1. Reinstall oil pump, pickup, and new rear main seal.
2. Reinstall oil pan with new gasket and torque pan bolts to spec.
3. Reinstall accessory components, manifolds, connect wiring, fill with oil and coolant.
4. Prime oiling system before initial start: crank engine with fuel disabled or use an oil pump priming tool until oil pressure registers to avoid dry start.
5. On initial start, monitor oil pressure, listen for abnormal noises. Recheck for leaks.
6. After warm-up, shut off and re-torque accessible bolts per factory sequence if required (some recommend re-torque after heat cycle).
Common pitfalls to avoid
- Not marking main caps and orientation — mixing caps/journals causes misalignment and rapid failure.
- Reusing old bearings — always replace with correct size new bearings when crank is out.
- Not thoroughly cleaning block, caps, and oil passages — any debris will damage bearings.
- Using wrong-size bearings (mixing standard and undersize, or wrong thickness).
- Overtorquing or undertorquing main bolts — follow factory torque spec and sequence.
- Rotating crank while plastigauge is installed — wrecks the measurement.
- Ignoring crank journal condition — installing bearings on scored journals leads to immediate failure.
- Forgetting thrust washers or installing them backward — leads to excessive endplay or binding.
- Skipping oil pump priming — dry start kills bearings.
- Not checking crank endplay — excessive or insufficient endplay causes thrust problems.
Notes on parts
- New main bearing shells (standard or specified undersize for reground crank).
- Thrust washers.
- Rear main seal (always replace when crank removed).
- Oil pump gasket/pickup O-ring; oil pan gasket.
- Main cap bolts if damaged or recommended by factory.
- Consider replacing rod bearings at same time.
- If journals require machining: machine shop services and undersize bearings.
Final reminders
- Use the factory service manual for exact clearances, torque values, bolt sequences, and any torque-angle steps specific to the 22R/22R-E.
- If crankshaft shows any significant damage, send it to a reputable machine shop for grinding/polishing and measurement; install bearings matched to machinist’s specifications.
- Precision measuring tools (micrometer, dial bore gauge) yield the best results; plastigauge is a good quick check but not a replacement for precise measurements when machining is involved.
End. rteeqp73
TOYOTA PICKUP BALL JOINTS & STEERING PARTS REPLACEMENT This one is a 1986. The parts weren't necessarily shot, but I definitely had the horrendous squeaking that bad ball joints have.
Changing a thermostat- 84+ 22RE & 22R Changing a thermostat on an 84+ 22RE/R in a Toyota pickup/4Runner *Rubber seal= 84+ 22R/RE *Paper gasket= pre 84 ...
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