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Toyota 22R and 22R-E engine factory workshop and repair manual

Tools/supplies (brief): hand vacuum pump, carb/throttle-body cleaner, wire/nylon brushes, small picks, compressed air, replacement gaskets/EGR valve or vacuum solenoid if needed, basic hand tools, torque wrench, safety glasses, gloves.

Quick theory primer (one paragraph):
The 22R/22R‑E EGR is a vacuum‑operated valve that routes a controlled amount of exhaust gas back into the intake under part‑load conditions. Exhaust gas is inert (mostly CO2/H2O) so it dilutes the intake charge, lowering peak combustion temperature and therefore NOx and detonation tendency. On the carbureted 22R the valve is operated by direct vacuum/thermal switches; on the 22R‑E the ECU modulates a vacuum regulator/solenoid that controls EGR flow. Common faults: carbon blocks ports or sticks the valve, diaphragm/vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum hoses, or failed regulator/solenoid. Cleaning or replacing the bad component restores correct flow/timing and therefore eliminates ping/NOx faults or rough idle depending on failure mode.

Step‑by‑step (in order) with short theory and why each repair fixes the fault:

1) Safety & prep
- Action: Let engine cool, wear eye protection, relieve fuel pressure if you will disturb fuel lines, disconnect negative battery if you’ll be testing electrical.
- Theory: avoids burns, sparks and accidental ECU commands.

2) Locate & visually inspect
- Action: Find the EGR valve on the intake near the throttle body and the metal EGR tube to the exhaust manifold. Note vacuum lines, any vacuum regulator/solenoid (22R‑E), and the EGR pipe/gasket area.
- Theory/diagnostic value: cracked vacuum hose or rotten gasket is a common cause of EGR failure. Visual inspection often shows black carbon around ports if flow is blocked.

3) Functional tests before removing
- Action: With engine warm and idling, use a hand vacuum pump on the EGR valve input. Apply vacuum: the valve should hold vacuum and the engine should stumble/roughen when the valve opens (EGR opens at idle only for test—normal operation opens under part load). For 22R‑E, apply vacuum directly to the valve (bypassing the regulator) to test the valve separately from the ECU/regulator. Check vacuum lines for leaks and continuity of any EGR solenoid coil with a multimeter.
- Theory: A diaphragm leak or seized valve won’t hold vacuum. If the valve responds to direct vacuum but ECU/regulator doesn’t control it, the problem is the regulator/solenoid or ECU control, not the valve. This isolates the failed part.

4) Remove EGR valve and associated parts
- Action: Disconnect vacuum hose(s) and electrical connector(s). Unbolt the EGR valve (typically 2 bolts), remove the EGR tube/gasket if necessary. Keep parts aligned and note orientation.
- Theory: Removing gives access to the valve seat, pintle/diaphragm and the intake/exhaust ports that are typically carboned.

5) Inspect internals and ports
- Action: Check valve face/pintle and the mating seat for carbon buildup; inspect the EGR tube for blockage; look for diaphragm damage or vacuum leaks.
- Theory: Carbon deposits on the seat or in the tube restrict or prevent flow or can hold the valve slightly open. A torn diaphragm won’t hold vacuum so the valve won’t operate under load.

6) Clean carbon and passages
- Action: Spray carb/throttle-body cleaner into ports and on the valve seat. Use small wire/nylon brushes and picks to remove carbon from the valve face, seat, and EGR tube. Blow out with compressed air. Do not damage sealing surfaces or the diaphragm—don’t submerge/tear diaphragms; if diaphragm is suspect, replace the valve.
- Theory: Removing carbon restores the valve’s ability to seat and meter exhaust gas. Clearing the EGR tube lets the metered gas actually reach the intake. This directly fixes symptoms caused by restricted or stuck valves (pinging for stuck‑closed; rough idle for stuck‑open).

7) Replace failed parts as required
- Action: If diaphragm leaks, vacuum lines are cracked, the EGR valve won’t hold vacuum, or the 22R‑E regulator/solenoid is dead, replace that component and install a new gasket(s).
- Theory: Cleaning fixes deposits; a leaking diaphragm or failed solenoid cannot be reliably repaired—replacement restores proper vacuum control and sealing so the EGR system can be modulated by engine conditions or ECU.

8) Reassemble and torque
- Action: Reinstall EGR valve, new gaskets, and tube. Tighten bolts evenly to manufacturer specs (snug/torque to spec; avoid over‑torquing). Reconnect vacuum hoses and electrics. Reconnect battery if you disconnected it.
- Theory: Proper gaskets prevent vacuum/exhaust leaks that would upset idle or EGR metering.

9) Verify operation after repair
- Action: Warm engine, test again with hand vacuum (valve should hold vacuum and cause a stumble). For 22R‑E, use a scan tool or backprobe the solenoid to command EGR or observe ECU commands and vacuum regulator response. Drive under part‑load — listen for reduced ping, improved throttle response, check for restored driveability and no vacuum leaks.
- Theory: A properly working EGR will reduce combustion temperatures and NOx and will eliminate pinging that was caused by a stuck‑closed valve. If symptoms persist, the problem may be elsewhere (ignition timing, detonation sources), but a restored EGR flow eliminates one principal cause.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise):
- Carbon removal unblocks ports and restores the valve’s ability to open/close and seal, so exhaust gas is properly metered into the intake only when required. That lowers peak combustion temperatures and NOx and removes detonation/pinging caused by a stuck‑closed valve. Replacing a leaking diaphragm, cracked vacuum hose, or failed solenoid restores vacuum control so the valve opens only at the proper times; that prevents rough idle (stuck‑open) and cycle‑by‑cycle detonation (stuck‑closed). Replacing the EGR tube/gasket removes exhaust leaks that can confuse metering or cause false symptoms.

Common quick indicators to know which repair is needed:
- Valve holds vacuum and engine stumbles when vacuum applied → valve mechanically OK; suspect regulator/solenoid or control (22R‑E) or the thermal/vacuum switch.
- Valve won’t hold vacuum → diaphragm leak → replace valve.
- Valve is stuck or carboned on seat → cleaning often fixes; if damaged, replace.
- Cracked vacuum hose or bad gasket → replace hose/gasket.

Done.
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